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henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


Sigmund Fraud posted:

Anyone bolting here? I'm looking to get my hands on relatively cheap A4 (AISL 316) expander bolts and hangers. They are too fing expensive here in Sweden...

Yes. What is your cost per bolt+hanger?

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Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



henne posted:

Yes. What is your cost per bolt+hanger?
15$ lmao.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Sigmund Fraud posted:

Anyone bolting here? I'm looking to get my hands on relatively cheap A4 (AISL 316) expander bolts and hangers. They are too fing expensive here in Sweden...

Well, unless you're planning to pick some up while on vacation, I don't see what we can do for you. Shipping to Sweden is the killer on heavy items like that.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


drat I think we get them at like <5 per, not that we do much bolting.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012




Just go old school with the bolting and have runouts of like 10m between each one.

burns_2k
Oct 17, 2012


Have you tried these guys? In the EU at least and it looks cheaper than that from what little I know about bolting. http://www.bolt-products.com/ProtectionBolts.htm

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I lost my new chalk bag Seriously confused by where it went though. Must have dropped it in the parking lot of the gym last week. Ordered a new one but just not the colors I had on the old one. Oh well.

numptyboy
Sep 6, 2004
somewhat pleasant

spwrozek posted:

I lost my new chalk bag Seriously confused by where it went though. Must have dropped it in the parking lot of the gym last week. Ordered a new one but just not the colors I had on the old one. Oh well.

Might have been stolen, silly poo poo like that seems to happen in climbing gyms. Maybe it's an honest mistake but it still happens.

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Yeah I had some liquid chalk that vanished one day in a gym last year

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Most gyms collect into a lost and found every day... Did you check that?

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

I learned my lesson when my nicest water bottle disappeared out of a cubby. It was very fancy stainless with a painted thing on it. loving thieving Boulder hippies

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



French Canadian posted:

Most gyms collect into a lost and found every day... Did you check that?

Out of town right now, going to check on Monday. Ordered another on REI, easy to return if need be.

Uncle Jam
Aug 20, 2005

Perfect


I climbed like 1 V1 before today and just went and did all the V1s right after another in the whole gym today. I think my rental shoes weren't old and poo poo this time.

Raphisonfire
May 2, 2009


What do I need to know and buy if I want to begin bouldering? Also I have a background in strength training so is there anything that I should be aware of before taking this up?

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Couple pictures of sharp bouldering with gamera


This wall is hard


Monkey Traverse. It's a ~V4 and that counts if you just do the traverse in sections with long breaks right



A muscly little V3 i think. Heel hook is good, long arms definitely help

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Nifty posted:



Monkey Traverse. It's a ~V4 and that counts if you just do the traverse in sections with long breaks right

Monkey Traverse beta requires the breaks.

Without breaks it's rated way the gently caress higher. 8? 9?

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-monkey-traverse/105761538

gamera009 fucked around with this message at 12:56 on Apr 20, 2015

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Had a day trip to Yosemite on Sunday to climb a route or two and didn't check the weather because it was 80 degrees and we were just doing easy 5.7/5.8 stuff. Should be fine right?

300 feet up and my newly experienced partner gets to experience a thunderstorm and rappelling in the rain on slick granite. And of course on the last rap, the rope doesn't reach the ground when I thought it would and I had her go first. Since she didn't know what to do and stayed there weighting the rope, I couldn't actually get down to assist. Eventually, I was able to walk her through finding a place to unweight the rope (a bolt) so I could assist in the end. Even casual climbs on a sunny day can be an adventure!

Frequent Handies
Nov 26, 2006

      



SplitDestiny posted:

Had a day trip to Yosemite on Sunday to climb a route or two and didn't check the weather because it was 80 degrees and we were just doing easy 5.7/5.8 stuff. Should be fine right?

300 feet up and my newly experienced partner gets to experience a thunderstorm and rappelling in the rain on slick granite. And of course on the last rap, the rope doesn't reach the ground when I thought it would and I had her go first. Since she didn't know what to do and stayed there weighting the rope, I couldn't actually get down to assist. Eventually, I was able to walk her through finding a place to unweight the rope (a bolt) so I could assist in the end. Even casual climbs on a sunny day can be an adventure!

That sounds like fun, having to yell and re-yell a tutorial while dangling from a rope while it's raining on you! Type 2 Fun.

Whitney trip was cancelled, everyone who was going decided they didn't want to deal with conditions, bummer. We have permits for August though - so I'll have some actual time to train for altitude instead of just heading out into it for the first time.

My brother and I are going to do Cathedral Peak in Santa Barbara as a consolation though.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I felt really good at the gym tonight. First got my chalk bag back. Then I flashed a V5 and was one move from a V6 (got it next try). I know it is gym grades but still felt good. I am way better at crimpy slab than powerful stuff but I am working on it. Really need to keep working on slopers and foot work though.

Also found out I can get my membership with $58 a month, plus work will give me $20 back in my check if I go 8 times a month. Possibly a membership for $38...sweet. (unfortunately I travel too much for work and go play on the weekends so I end up averaging 7 trips per month...)

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

I felt really good at the gym tonight. First got my chalk bag back. Then I flashed a V5 and was one move from a V6 (got it next try). I know it is gym grades but still felt good. I am way better at crimpy slab than powerful stuff but I am working on it. Really need to keep working on slopers and foot work though.

Also found out I can get my membership with $58 a month, plus work will give me $20 back in my check if I go 8 times a month. Possibly a membership for $38...sweet. (unfortunately I travel too much for work and go play on the weekends so I end up averaging 7 trips per month...)

So why can't you do the V4/V3 stuff on the garage wall?

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



Raphisonfire posted:

What do I need to know and buy if I want to begin bouldering? Also I have a background in strength training so is there anything that I should be aware of before taking this up?
Try it out and see if you like it! You'll need shoes and a chalk bag. You can also rent shoes in the beginning. Generally strong new boulderers learn bad technique and plateau early since they are more able to pull with their arms and can muscle their way through problems. If you want to avoid bad technique, try climbing each problem as controlled and well as possible. Avoid bending your arms/doing pullups if it's possible to shift your legs around instead. Easier problems virtually never require dynamic moves. Learn to back step, flag your legs and use the inside and outside edges of your feet early. When you've established a good base you can add more advanced stuff like hooks, drop knees, bars, jams etcetc.

petrol blue
Feb 9, 2013

sugar and spice
and
ethanol slammers


Anyone got any advice on breaking in new shoes? I've got one foot bigger than the other, so that one's getting pretty sore after I climb. Is it just a case of 'wear them round the house'?

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



petrol blue posted:

Anyone got any advice on breaking in new shoes? I've got one foot bigger than the other, so that one's getting pretty sore after I climb. Is it just a case of 'wear them round the house'?

You COULD buy two sizes if you've got the money. If you want to break them in quicker, you could try chucking them in the oven and the rubber will mold much easier. Just don't set the temperature too high or the glue will melt.

petrol blue
Feb 9, 2013

sugar and spice
and
ethanol slammers


How high is too high? I'm pretty skint, buying another pair isn't really an option, so I don't really want to risk breaking them. Heat is a good plan, mind you... Hairdryer time!

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

I have a similar problem, in that the Scarpa Vapour Vs I bought about 2 months ago are still very painful - I have to take them off after each climb as my feet begin to cramp up. In hindsight I should have bought half a size up, but there you go. They've stretched out a bit, but are still too painful to wear for extended periods of time.

I've heard that wearing them in a hot bath can mold them to your feet and stretch them out a little... Anybody have a good experience with that? I don't want to ruin them, but I'd also like to be able to wear them without feeling like my toes are breaking.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Wear them at home to prestretch them, and take another pair of shoes when you go climbing so you can alternate when the pain is too much.

Or buy bigger shoes. I used to be firmly in the four sizes under street shoe size, can't get them on without using plastic bags camp for buying climbing shoes but these days I don't think it's worth it. Unless you're doing super precise and overhanging bouldering it's rare that your shoes are the limiting factor in your climbing and the disadvantages of having painful feet probably far outweigh the marginal added precision most of the time. Now I buy ones that are only slightly painful to begin with so that I don't have to spend 3 months breaking them in before they're wearable for more than ten minutes. And some of my old and baggy shoes are my favourites for day to day wear, just crack out the tight ones when I'm going for something at my limit.

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

Girlfriend never really did anything athletic before, but she tried climbing with me a few months ago and wound up really liking it and joining the gym and going with me a couple times a week. She made the move to 5.9 a while back, and we were doing several routes last night on the same wall and rope and she decided "gently caress it, while we're here I'm going to try this 10b" and finished it. Climbing is the best I also finally convinced her to stop renting shoes and buy a pair -- she bought a harness long ago but has been inexplicably resistant to getting shoes.

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

guppy posted:

Girlfriend never really did anything athletic before, but she tried climbing with me a few months ago and wound up really liking it and joining the gym and going with me a couple times a week. She made the move to 5.9 a while back, and we were doing several routes last night on the same wall and rope and she decided "gently caress it, while we're here I'm going to try this 10b" and finished it. Climbing is the best I also finally convinced her to stop renting shoes and buy a pair -- she bought a harness long ago but has been inexplicably resistant to getting shoes.

Shows a lack of (climbing) commitment.

Congratulations on the 10b! Also, don't you guys climb at ET Timonium or am I mistaken? Have you guys ever tried bouldering at Northwest Branch? A family friend gave me his crash pad and I was thinking about bouldering outside for the first time while the weather is good.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


Chris! posted:

I have a similar problem, in that the Scarpa Vapour Vs I bought about 2 months ago are still very painful - I have to take them off after each climb as my feet begin to cramp up. In hindsight I should have bought half a size up, but there you go. They've stretched out a bit, but are still too painful to wear for extended periods of time.

I've heard that wearing them in a hot bath can mold them to your feet and stretch them out a little... Anybody have a good experience with that? I don't want to ruin them, but I'd also like to be able to wear them without feeling like my toes are breaking.

I have the exact same shoes that I bought about a month ago and I'm really regretting not getting a size smaller as they've noticably worn in already and my smaller foot definitely feels a little sloppy now

On a related note, anyone know somewhere in the North London / Essex area where they actually have a good selection of shoes of different sizes, all the places I know locally only have a limited amount of stock and usually only a few different sizes of each shoe, I would really like to spend a good amount of time when I get my next pair making sure that they fit just right.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


I always wore my shoes in the shower if they really needed to stretch out before a trip or something. One time a friend blew out his shoes a day before we went on a week long trip so he slept in his shoes to get used to them and could hardly walk the first day.

petrol blue
Feb 9, 2013

sugar and spice
and
ethanol slammers


I've been wearing them at home with double thick wool socks (not my sexiest look), and they were noticeably better tonight. Three cheers for brute force solutions!

Major Ryan
May 10, 2008

Completely blank

First proper fall lead climbing tonight - above my last clip reaching for the next hold, hand just came straight off and so did I. Felt good, after I'd realised what happened!

Stupid thing; I've lead that route a couple of times before and had no trouble. Just one of those things I guess. Also I've not climbed for a few weeks, so maybe lack of focus/strength/commitment...

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Got a brand new pair of Mythos and my trad rack burning a hole in my pocket but it doesn't want to do anything but rain/sleet/snow in the Springs right now.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


I think I've convinced my climbing partner that we're going here next winter...




That gives me about nine months to get strong and brave.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

So why can't you do the V4/V3 stuff on the garage wall?

Ouch... and because they are way hard!

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

Ouch... and because they are way hard!

Well I guess you climb whatever level you're capa-

spwrozek posted:

Then I flashed a V5 and was one move from a V6 (got it next try).

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

chami posted:

Shows a lack of (climbing) commitment.

Congratulations on the 10b! Also, don't you guys climb at ET Timonium or am I mistaken? Have you guys ever tried bouldering at Northwest Branch? A family friend gave me his crash pad and I was thinking about bouldering outside for the first time while the weather is good.

Yep, ET Timonium! I haven't been to Northwest Branch -- actually, never climbed outside at all -- and didn't know it existed. Little bit of a drive for me but not too bad, maybe time to check it out now that it's warming up!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

Well I guess you climb whatever level you're capa-






Seriously though I think it is because I was wearing your shoes and not warmed up at all. I usually need to climb V0, V1, V2, V2, V3, V3, V4 and then try hard stuff.

Also it is agreed by all us plebs that those problems are cray and much harder than V3-4.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


spwrozek posted:


Also it is agreed by all us plebs that those problems are cray and much harder than V3-4.
Pleb. Second. Honestly it's much more about the warming up than anything else. Most of those moves are finger and/or shoulder intensive, and my broke down-rear end body needs some warming up before I ask those particular parts to do anything too interesting.

Also, I think the problems on your wall are closer to outdoor 3-4 than gym 3-4.

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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:



Seriously though I think it is because I was wearing your shoes and not warmed up at all. I usually need to climb V0, V1, V2, V2, V3, V3, V4 and then try hard stuff.

Also it is agreed by all us plebs that those problems are cray and much harder than V3-4.


Bud Manstrong posted:

Pleb. Second. Honestly it's much more about the warming up than anything else. Most of those moves are finger and/or shoulder intensive, and my broke down-rear end body needs some warming up before I ask those particular parts to do anything too interesting.

Also, I think the problems on your wall are closer to outdoor 3-4 than gym 3-4.

Obviously, you plebs need to bring your shoes over and warm up, grab a beer, and then climb the problems. Also, set some new stuff, now that I have the fatty pinches and a new massive set of Kilter holds.

I even have the massive triple set of monster huecos. The ones that are bigger than my head.



And what is this horseshit about being outdoors V3/4? The problems in the garage are just as tough as gym V3/4!
Both of you dudes are climbing way harder than I am. I think you need to stop whining and crush the contrived bullshit in the garage.

gamera009 fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Apr 23, 2015

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