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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



If I ever climb harder than you I will crap my pants.

Maybe next week sometime we can do an after work night session.

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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

If I ever climb harder than you I will crap my pants.

Maybe next week sometime we can do an after work night session.

I'll probably have the power cage set up in the basement as well by that point. No more imbalanced rotators! :v:

I also need to figure out how to build in a volume across the garage and also anchor everything into the ceiling so I can have roof problems. 12' off the ground.

compton ass terry
Nov 20, 2006

Do you know where I'm from?

What's the best way to learn how to grab slopers? I hear the common "just find the deadpoint" often, but that still doesn't help me.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


compton rear end terry posted:

What's the best way to learn how to grab slopers? I hear the common "just find the deadpoint" often, but that still doesn't help me.

Keep your center of gravity as low as possible. Find balance and put as much weight as you can on your feet.

Still stuck in shoulder season here. I love the Alberta rockies but the length of the season is terrible. In protest, I drove 8 hours out to Skaha for just a weekend of climbing.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

big scary monsters posted:

I think I've convinced my climbing partner that we're going here next winter...




That gives me about nine months to get strong and brave.

Nice! I've got a friend who goes ski touring and ice climbing in the Norwegian alps most years. His words - "Rjukan is too busy".

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Kiltering it out.


petrol blue
Feb 9, 2013

sugar and spice
and
ethanol slammers



:saddowns:

I'm starting to get the vague impression I need to watch where I'm putting my knees more, you guys think I might be right?

Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


Can anyone give me a brief rundown of what I should be looking to buy if I want to top rope outdoors? I'd probably be mainly anchoring on to trees. I went a week ago with a dude and I think the only equipment he really used to anchor was a dynamic rope, a static rope, and two carabiners. Now I'm looking around online and there's all kinds of equipment suggested for top roping and I'm feeling a little overwhelmed.

Any suggestions?

After reading around on various forums for the past hour or so, I think I'm going to hold off on the equipment for a bit. The general consensus seems to be that I'll know what I need once I understand enough about climbing to know what I need.

Tots fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Apr 24, 2015

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Tots posted:

After reading around on various forums for the past hour or so, I think I'm going to hold off on the equipment for a bit. The general consensus seems to be that I'll know what I need once I understand enough about climbing to know what I need.

I am absolutely thrilled by this edit. Go climb with said dude some more and learn, and then go buy what you need.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Endjinneer posted:

Nice! I've got a friend who goes ski touring and ice climbing in the Norwegian alps most years. His words - "Rjukan is too busy".

I've not been to Norway yet but this was basically my thinking too. Fly into Tromsų and go get some sea cliff ice done. I'm actually pretty bad at ice, my best mixed route is a Scottish IV solo and I've climbed V on second, but imo there's no reason I can't be climbing WI5+ by the start of next year.

asur
Dec 28, 2012


Tots posted:

Can anyone give me a brief rundown of what I should be looking to buy if I want to top rope outdoors? I'd probably be mainly anchoring on to trees. I went a week ago with a dude and I think the only equipment he really used to anchor was a dynamic rope, a static rope, and two carabiners. Now I'm looking around online and there's all kinds of equipment suggested for top roping and I'm feeling a little overwhelmed.

Any suggestions?

After reading around on various forums for the past hour or so, I think I'm going to hold off on the equipment for a bit. The general consensus seems to be that I'll know what I need once I understand enough about climbing to know what I need.

Are you climbing outdoors with people other than the one time or can you take a class? The advice you found is assuming you have some way to learning. If someone is setting up an anchor, then ask questions and watch what they do.

Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


asur posted:

Are you climbing outdoors with people other than the one time or can you take a class? The advice you found is assuming you have some way to learning. If someone is setting up an anchor, then ask questions and watch what they do.

I'm in the process now of finding people/groups that I can go outdoors with on a regular basis

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Tots posted:

Can anyone give me a brief rundown of what I should be looking to buy if I want to top rope outdoors? I'd probably be mainly anchoring on to trees. I went a week ago with a dude and I think the only equipment he really used to anchor was a dynamic rope, a static rope, and two carabiners. Now I'm looking around online and there's all kinds of equipment suggested for top roping and I'm feeling a little overwhelmed.

Any suggestions?

After reading around on various forums for the past hour or so, I think I'm going to hold off on the equipment for a bit. The general consensus seems to be that I'll know what I need once I understand enough about climbing to know what I need.

I think your edit is good.


All you probably need is 1" webbing or 9mm cord and some locking caribiners. Really the biggest thing I will say is Anchor yourself off before you setup using trees near the cliff edge. You do not want to fall off. Also make sure your rope is long enough for the location if you are going to rap off.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I accidently clipped into an auto belay they other day using only the belay loop on my harness. Something felt off when I did it but my mind just never noticed it until I got back down and thought about how it has never been that simple to unclip before.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



www.amazon.com posted:

I accidently clipped into an auto belay they other day using only the belay loop on my harness. Something felt off when I did it but my mind just never noticed it until I got back down and thought about how it has never been that simple to unclip before.

I really don't have a problem with this... maybe not ideal but you will be just fine.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


That was my thought after thinking about it. I was like a lead climbing fall should put way more force on it by many multiples. On the auto belay it basically just needs to hold your body weight for less than 10 seconds on the way down. I was still like wait a secondl; did I really just do that.

Pedestrian Xing
Jul 18, 2007



Through the belay loop only is what I've always seen, do they do it through the tie-in loops elsewhere?

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


Honestly I'm not even sure what the policy is on the auto belay where I climb. the only time it was mentioned I i was still using the rental harnesses which only have 1 loop anyways. After I got my own harness I just started naturally clipping the locking biner through both loops just how I would route the rope if I was tying in.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

I always just use the belay loop, that's how I was shown back when I first had my induction at a climbing gym.

I'm ice climbing for the first time today, only indoors unfortunately (at Vertical Chill in London), but with the hope to learn some techniques ready for a winter trip to Scotland at some point (which would be guided until my friend and I have learned enough). Anyone ice-climbed inside before?

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Chris! posted:

I always just use the belay loop, that's how I was shown back when I first had my induction at a climbing gym.

This seems safer to me as well as simpler. If you clip a crab into both tie in loops you are potentially cross loading it. Unlikely to matter in this situation but I don't see why you'd do it.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

Chris! posted:

I always just use the belay loop, that's how I was shown back when I first had my induction at a climbing gym.

I'm ice climbing for the first time today, only indoors unfortunately (at Vertical Chill in London), but with the hope to learn some techniques ready for a winter trip to Scotland at some point (which would be guided until my friend and I have learned enough). Anyone ice-climbed inside before?

Went to Kinlochleven Ice Factor earlier this year, when a forecast turned horrible on us. There'll be lots of nice placements for your axes that other people have chopped, use these if you want to save your arms. It was really good for practicing front pointing technique and trying to climb stuff way steeper than I'd attempt outside.

IrvingWashington
Dec 9, 2007


Clapping Larry

http://www.myfoxdc.com/story/28896867/8-dead-as-quake-triggered-avalanche-sweeps-everest

Avalanche/Earthquake news, plus a fun reveal that a Sherpa is neither man nor woman

quote:

Norwegian climber Teodor Glomnes Johansen told a newspaper in Norway that people at base camp were working on saving lives.

"All those who are unharmed organize help with the rescue efforts. Men, women and Sherpas are working side by side. The job right now is to assist the doctors in the camp here," Glomnes Johansen told Norway's VG newspaper.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

So I finished my indoor ice-climbing session at Vertical Chill in London. Holy poo poo, my arms haven't been this pumped since I first started climbing - I mostly lead climb, including a lot of overhanging stuff, and don't have a big problem with getting pumped, but after only 20 minutes my forearms felt like concrete. Climbed for an hour in total, the girl belaying was really friendly and let me have a little longer than I was meant to.

Obviously my technique sucked, I was consciously trying not to overgrip and to focus on my footwork, but I guess I wasn't doing enough to avoid a mega pump.

I expected it to be easier, both physically and technically, but I'm pretty happy that I managed to climb all of the routes, including their overhang (which I climbed about 5 times, though only once clean). I really enjoyed it, and can't wait to get a chance to do a winter climbing trip somewhere!

Chris! fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Apr 25, 2015

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I got my first bigger trip of the year in on Friday. I am down in Las Vegas and got to spend the day in Red Rock Canyon. Due to the timing of everything I had my buddy and his girl with me and it was the first time they had climbed outside. Maybe not the smartest thing but I taught my buddy how to lead belay at his house and then made sure we were good again at the crag. All in all he wasn't bad, I felt safe but short roped. We stuck to some easy stuff and then I felt good enough to try one harder route. I ended up getting 5 climbs in since I had to go pull gear and such every time. We went to the second pullout and hit up the black corridor, which was really cool. Here is what we got on:

The CEL 5.9 Cool slab problem.
The Heavy Hitter 5.10c Awesome problem with some cool huecos. I had a couple takes as I really didn't want to fall at all. Really sustained climb, very fun.
757 2X4 5.7 Neat crack/face problem. Fun plates and a you really can't fall to the first bolt as it will be brutal.

It was really cool to climb here and wish I had more time and better partners but fun all around. Also the locals really liked using the stick clip which is just weird for me.

Red Rocks


The Black Corridor, routes on both sides, pretty neat area.

My buddy starting The CEL.

My buddy on The CEL, me belaying.

Me at the chains of The Heavy Hitter

My buddies girl being lowered off 757 2X4. If you fell before the first bolt you would probably end up down there...no good.

Me cleaning the anchors on 757 2X4.

Me hiking out, CO representing.

My buddy and I hiking out.

Me having fun!

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


spwrozek posted:

I got my first bigger trip of the year in on Friday. I am down in Las Vegas and got to spend the day in Red Rock Canyon.

Looks awesome! I've probably had more fun climbing at Red Rocks than any other area. I don't think it necessarily has the best climbing, but I always wind up just having a blast.

Are you still there/climbing more? If so, and you're looking for recommendations for sport routes at a particular grade, let me know! (teaser: go climb the 10s at Stone Wall)

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I am leaving tomorrow night and we planned on climbing tomorrow but it poured all afternoon and so we don't want to risk damaging the rock. Going to go skateboard instead.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Red Rocks has my favorite rock quality. So solid but doesnt kill your hands

magicalmako
Feb 13, 2005


Cracks are hard.

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


Chris! posted:

So I finished my indoor ice-climbing session at Vertical Chill in London.
Everytime I'm in that shop I want to have a go, looks like tons of fun.

Dunno if many people here climb at the Castle but I think the latest set of routes are easier than normal, I managed to on-sight two V4-6 routes and a bunch of V4s...feels good for a middling climber but can't help but think they weren't graded right!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I got a hole in the toe box of my right shoe (evolv Pontas) because I let someone else climb in them... While I get those fixed I am thinking of picking up a new pair of shoes (I have some old Evolv Defy's I can use as well). I was thinking something a bit more aggressive but still able to wear most of the day without going insane. Leather uppers would be nice and they have to be velcro. I was thinking the La Sportive Miura VS might be alright. Any other suggestions? Climbing around V4-6 and 5.10d-5.12a.

asur
Dec 28, 2012


Scarpa Vapours are good, pretty similar to the Miura. I'm not certain either fits the criteria of being able to wear all day without going insane unless you size up though.

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Yeah I can't wear my Vapors more than a few routes at a time.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



I've got a pair of miura VS in UK 7.5 (street shoe UK 10), and a pair of miura laces in UK 8. Now they're broken in a bit the VS are easily the best shoes I've had, can put incredible power down through the toe, super precise. The laces are fine for all day wear at half a size bigger, but they're also a less aggressive shape.

I'm with you though, gently caress laces, all my lace up shoes are being phased out and replaced by velcro and slippers.

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

I don't think aggressive shoes are ever going to be comfy enough for all - day wear. Tenaya Tarifas come close, but they're laces and a bit less aggressive than the Miura VS you're looking at. I can't wear my VS for more than a few problems at a time and they were painful as heck first, but they're pretty precise and powerful as others have said.

If you're trying to get power and comfort I would try out the Tenaya Oasi if it's carried in a store near you - some of the other boulderers in my gym rock them and say they're pretty comfy.

chami fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Apr 29, 2015

tynam
May 14, 2007


Shamans have worked well for me, maybe not as aggressive but comfortable as hell. I sized them tight and I can wear them for an entire session (2-3 hours) without any real discomfort. I like them enough that I've resoled it twice and will probably pick up another pair as a backup.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Thanks for the thoughts. I should add that I don't mind taking my shoes of during the day but I don't want a shoe that I can only climb a single boulder problem and then have to rip them off because of painful feet. The pontas I have are nice but need a backup pair and I feel like something more aggressive for over hanging stuff.

Prancing Shoes
Jul 7, 2008


Can anyone recommend a shop to send my shoes to get resoled?

asur
Dec 28, 2012


I sent mine to http://www.yosemitebum.com/ and have had no complaints.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Colour posted:

Can anyone recommend a shop to send my shoes to get resoled?

Rock and Resole in Bolder CO is were I send mine.

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Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


spwrozek posted:

Rock and Resole in Bolder CO is were I send mine.

Two-day turnaround if you're local!

Miuras. If they fit, buy Miuras. I also really liked the Oasi, and I can get good pricing on them if you do too.

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