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French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Don't use the place in bishop, ca... The rubber room or whatever. poo poo sucks..

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Bud Manstrong posted:

Two-day turnaround if you're local!

Miuras. If they fit, buy Miuras. I also really liked the Oasi, and I can get good pricing on them if you do too.

I got the miuras. I could see getting the oasi at some point though.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Rock and Resole in Bolder CO is were I send mine.

Same here. I waited two weeks (!!) for my Miuras to be returned to me last fall, but it turns out that was a minor hiccup and they have since hired two new cobblers. My BF got his back in less than a week I think (we're in C. Springs). Very happy with R&R.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

spwrozek posted:

Rock and Resole in Bolder CO is were I send mine.

Another vote for Rock and Resole. I've used them many times and been happy with their work.

Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


Anyone have a retired climbing pack they want to sell?

Prancing Shoes
Jul 7, 2008


Cool, thanks for the recommendations everyone. Rock and Resole it is then.

Fixit
Mar 27, 2010


Hi all. I am looking to get into rock climbing. I have gone and tried on some shoes at REI, to find a brand and size that fits. I followed the rule they should be uncomfortable but all the shoes hurt after 3 minutes of wearing them. My question is, is that normal for someone with ingrown toenails? Am I just screwed or is there a type of shoe out there that won't kill my toes? Was I looking at sizes too small? I honestly have no clue. Thanks in advance.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Fixit posted:

Hi all. I am looking to get into rock climbing. I have gone and tried on some shoes at REI, to find a brand and size that fits. I followed the rule they should be uncomfortable but all the shoes hurt after 3 minutes of wearing them. My question is, is that normal for someone with ingrown toenails? Am I just screwed or is there a type of shoe out there that won't kill my toes? Was I looking at sizes too small? I honestly have no clue. Thanks in advance.

My suggestion for a brand new climber is to buy an inexpensive pair of shoes that are tight, but not so tight that they hurt. It will be a long time before your shoes are the things holding you back, and you are likely to unnecessarily shred a lot of expensive rubber if you buy good shoes starting out.

Fixit
Mar 27, 2010


armorer posted:

My suggestion for a brand new climber is to buy an inexpensive pair of shoes that are tight, but not so tight that they hurt. It will be a long time before your shoes are the things holding you back, and you are likely to unnecessarily shred a lot of expensive rubber if you buy good shoes starting out.

That is the plan. Just trying to find a size and brand that works. Then going to hit up craigslist or someplace selling used shoes.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Fixit posted:

the rule they should be uncomfortable

This is not true, especially for new climbers. They should be snug, but not uncomfortable.

tynam
May 14, 2007


If the shoes hurt after a few minutes, you're definitely sizing them too small. Try a size or two higher - you really should be able to wear beginner shoes all day. If you get to a point where you feel its too loose, you can always wear socks to make them a tighter fit.

Fixit
Mar 27, 2010


Ah ok. The lady at REI was telling me otherwise. Will go to a different one and try on a bigger size.

bonds0097
Oct 23, 2010

I would cry but I don't think I can spare the moisture.

Pillbug

Fixit posted:

Ah ok. The lady at REI was telling me otherwise. Will go to a different one and try on a bigger size.

All that being said, even snug may be uncomfortable if you have bad ingrown toenails. My big toes get pretty bad and sometimes the tightness of the toe box causes pain after wearing them for a while.

compton ass terry
Nov 20, 2006

Do you know where I'm from?

On the same topic, what are the widest shoes out there?

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

compton rear end terry posted:

On the same topic, what are the widest shoes out there?

Scarpa Vapour Vs are pretty wide, and comfortable (mine are painful because I bought half size smaller than I should have, but they are finally breaking in).

benwards
Apr 9, 2007

Another youthful indiscretion


compton rear end terry posted:

On the same topic, what are the widest shoes out there?

I have stupid-wide feet, and la sportiva miuras are the best fit I've found.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

benwards posted:

I have stupid-wide feet, and la sportiva miuras are the best fit I've found.

This is really interesting to hear as I've just bought a second hand pair of Miura laces (because a mate only wanted a fiver for them) and they're so narrow I can't even get my feet inside (despite them being half size bigger than my usual rock shoes). They're so narrow around the toes!

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



benwards posted:

I have stupid-wide feet, and la sportiva miuras are the best fit I've found.

That's crazy. I wear them specifically because they're narrow, and previous pairs of scarpas were all too wide.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



For references, I wear 8.5EEE in mens' shoes (Allen Edmonds).

I am incapable of anything that isn't either one full size larger than I need, or Evolvs. Scarpa Helix isn't a bad fit, but I have to keep it barely laced up front and about a half-one size larger than I typically use. Acceptable for casual multipitch, but terrible for bouldering.

La Sportive used to make the Tora, which was awesome, and then for some reason they decided people with wide feet don't climb and went back to making narrow as gently caress shoes.

Maybe I'll look into something less heinous eventually, but I was getting the Evolve pro-deal so I ended up with something like five pairs of Evolv shoes. Not running out any time soon.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

gamera009 posted:

For references, I wear 8.5EEE in mens' shoes (Allen Edmonds).

I am incapable of anything that isn't either one full size larger than I need, or Evolvs. Scarpa Helix isn't a bad fit, but I have to keep it barely laced up front and about a half-one size larger than I typically use. Acceptable for casual multipitch, but terrible for bouldering.

La Sportive used to make the Tora, which was awesome, and then for some reason they decided people with wide feet don't climb and went back to making narrow as gently caress shoes.

Maybe I'll look into something less heinous eventually, but I was getting the Evolve pro-deal so I ended up with something like five pairs of Evolv shoes. Not running out any time soon.

I didn't realise Evolvs were particularly wide, I don't think I even tried any on when I was shopping around for mine. Is there any you particularly favour for sport climbing? Although the Miuras I have are too narrow for me, I have to say the rubber feels really sticky compared to my Scarpas.

benwards
Apr 9, 2007

Another youthful indiscretion


Chris! posted:

This is really interesting to hear as I've just bought a second hand pair of Miura laces (because a mate only wanted a fiver for them) and they're so narrow I can't even get my feet inside (despite them being half size bigger than my usual rock shoes). They're so narrow around the toes!


Still B.A.E posted:

That's crazy. I wear them specifically because they're narrow, and previous pairs of scarpas were all too wide.

I wear 9.5EEE and the velcro Sportivas are the best things I've climbed in. I also have very high arches, so maybe it's more about total volume than width? Who knows. Maybe the real moral is: try on a bunch of shoes and buy the ones that feel good! :D

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

benwards posted:

I wear 9.5EEE and the velcro Sportivas are the best things I've climbed in. I also have very high arches, so maybe it's more about total volume than width? Who knows. Maybe the real moral is: try on a bunch of shoes and buy the ones that feel good! :D

Well I think the confusion might be in that the Miura VS (Velcro) and Miura (lace) have rather different shapes even if they have the same name.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


Chris! posted:

Scarpa Vapour Vs are pretty wide, and comfortable (mine are painful because I bought half size smaller than I should have, but they are finally breaking in).

Can confirm, wide footed climber here. Previously have worn a Sportiva Katana which was also fine, almost got a 2nd pair when they wore out but I wasn't that happy with how fast they got trashed so I wanted to try something else out. My first pair of shoes were Evolvs of some kind (I don't actually remember) and were adequate (and certainly the width was ok) but didn't exactly suit my foot shape well, they seemed to have too much space in the heel.

On an unrelated note, I had a staff member at the climbing wall let me try out some of his belay gear today since I mentioned I was in the market for something new, and I more or less instantly fell in love with the Edelrid Mega Jul, I wondered if anyone had any horror stories about this thing before I buy one? It seems to have all of the features of a 'standard' belay plate along with an effective self locking mechanism, very light, similar in use to a normal plate and suitable for abseiling etc. unlike e.g. a grigri. I know it's not 100% safe hands off like some of the more mechanically assisted options out there but it seems like a very good compromise between weight, safety and multifunctionality.

E:

I have heard that the Mega Jul can be a little finnicky wrt the type of carabiner you're using, if anyone has any experience with problems re: this please let me know!

RabidWeasel fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Apr 30, 2015

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Fixit posted:

[Person] at REI was telling me [bad advice].

:rolleyes: Heard that before

Ed: Jul's are really great, if you feel like you need a new biner to go with it, then pull the trigger.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 02:02 on May 1, 2015

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


RabidWeasel posted:

I know it's not 100% safe hands off like some of the more mechanically assisted options out there

Even with a grigri or w/e don't take your hand off the brake.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


Speleothing posted:

:rolleyes: Heard that before

Ed: Jul's are really great, if you feel like you need a new biner to go with it, then pull the trigger.

I think I am just going to go for the the Mega Jul plus the Edelrid steel biner that they offer as a package, since I've also heard that it can scratch up aluminium carabiners pretty badly and it's really light for a steel biner. Slightly more than I am looking to spend but a couple of bits with the order on top of that makes it free delivery so it's not too bad!

henne posted:

Even with a grigri or w/e don't take your hand off the brake.

I didn't mean to suggest that you should ever do that (I don't know why the gently caress anyone would but people do) just that it's probably slightly more likely to fail in that kind of situation. Poor choice of words on my part, I was pretty sleepy when I made that post.

p.s. seriously guys don't do dangerous poo poo when you're belaying

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

RabidWeasel posted:


p.s. seriously guys don't do dangerous poo poo when you're belaying

Yeah, this past Tuesday somebody decked from above the third clip in the gym because her belayer was talking to someone. :gonk: Always climb safely goons!

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

chami posted:

Yeah, this past Tuesday somebody decked from above the third clip in the gym because her belayer was talking to someone. :gonk: Always climb safely goons!

I have seen some of the scariest belaying I've ever seen recently in my gym. The other day a guy was top-rope belaying with the (seriously inferior, do not do this) method where you take the slack up vertically next to the climber's strand, grab both strands with your non-brake hand, and slide the brake hand back down to the atc. (If you don't already know, this method is inferior because the entire time you are taking up slack the rope is not in a brake position.) Anyway - the real issue in this case was that this guy was grabbing the brake strand with the PINKY of his non brake hand, and then completely removing his brake hand from the rope and reaching back down to the atc before grabbing the brake strand again.

I only saw him doing it at the end of the climb, and I didn't say anything to him about it. I've felt guilty for being silent since then, and if I ever see him in there again doing that I will say something to him.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


armorer posted:

I have seen some of the scariest belaying I've ever seen recently in my gym. The other day a guy was top-rope belaying with the (seriously inferior, do not do this) method where you take the slack up vertically next to the climber's strand, grab both strands with your non-brake hand, and slide the brake hand back down to the atc. (If you don't already know, this method is inferior because the entire time you are taking up slack the rope is not in a brake position.) Anyway - the real issue in this case was that this guy was grabbing the brake strand with the PINKY of his non brake hand, and then completely removing his brake hand from the rope and reaching back down to the atc before grabbing the brake strand again.

Never seen anyone do this but :wtc: I don't even see how this is easier than doing it properly.

chami posted:

Yeah, this past Tuesday somebody decked from above the third clip in the gym because her belayer was talking to someone. :gonk: Always climb safely goons!

This is why I feel a bit uneasy if I'm being given a comfortable but still safe amount of slack while leading, because if you get short roped a little you know that you're being kept safe, but if the rope is always flowing freely you might just have too much slack. Obviously not an issue when you know your belayer well but when you're just climbing with whoever's around it's something that comes to mind occasionally. Most of the people I've climbed with are so much more experienced than me that I just assume that they're not going to gently caress up :shobon:

Frequent Handies
Nov 26, 2006

      :yum:



RabidWeasel posted:

I think I am just going to go for the the Mega Jul plus the Edelrid steel biner that they offer as a package, since I've also heard that it can scratch up aluminium carabiners pretty badly and it's really light for a steel biner. Slightly more than I am looking to spend but a couple of bits with the order on top of that makes it free delivery so it's not too bad!

I seriously love my Mega Jul. Took a bit of getting used to to feed slack out compared to an ATC but a nice pull up with the thumb does the trick (like, a lot).

Rappelling is a dream if you get a biner that fits through the hole in the front and clips into place - you can wrap your entire hand through and go as fast or slow as you'd like. Ended up being so stoked with it once I got it down we did a nine waterfall canyon. With the lock off it was even better, just hanging out under the flow getting drenched.

tynam
May 14, 2007


armorer posted:

I have seen some of the scariest belaying I've ever seen recently in my gym. The other day a guy was top-rope belaying with the (seriously inferior, do not do this) method where you take the slack up vertically next to the climber's strand, grab both strands with your non-brake hand, and slide the brake hand back down to the atc. (If you don't already know, this method is inferior because the entire time you are taking up slack the rope is not in a brake position.) Anyway - the real issue in this case was that this guy was grabbing the brake strand with the PINKY of his non brake hand, and then completely removing his brake hand from the rope and reaching back down to the atc before grabbing the brake strand again.

I only saw him doing it at the end of the climb, and I didn't say anything to him about it. I've felt guilty for being silent since then, and if I ever see him in there again doing that I will say something to him.

I've got a story that still gives me chills and makes me pretty angry.

I was belaying so I wasn't paying much attention to much beyond my climber, but I heard some strange commotion to my right. When I looked over, I see a climber on toprope at the top of the wall (50') and the belayer with about 15+' of slack laid out and a confused look on his face. The climber at the top was screaming for the belayer to take in slack and the belayer looked completely confused. I yelled at him to pull in the rope but he, amazingly, gave out EVEN MORE SLACK. When I yelled again to stop giving out slack he COMPLETELY LETS GO OF THE ROPES. At this point I wanted to jump in directly but my climber was still up there and I was on belay, so I started yelling at some of the bystanders to jump in to help. Unfortunately the people nearby were all new climbers (temporary belay cards on their harnesses), but I was able to communicate to them to help the guy pull in slack and keep a hand on the brake strand.

The climber eventually got lowered safely and furious screaming ensued. Never saw them at the gym again, hopefully the belayer didn't kill anyone since then.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



henne posted:

Even with a grigri or w/e don't take your hand off the brake.

Look at this guy not knowing how to use a grigi. (I am joking but I also don't let people belay me with one) it is crazy watching all the people at the gym not holding onto the brake at all.

It is up there with people who don't do safety checks before heading up the wall... Really? Not worth it? I missed a hard point on a tie in at red rocks but we caught it since I always do the safety checks.

armorer posted:

I have seen some of the scariest belaying I've ever seen recently in my gym. The other day a guy was top-rope belaying with the (seriously inferior, do not do this) method where you take the slack up vertically next to the climber's strand, grab both strands with your non-brake hand, and slide the brake hand back down to the atc. (If you don't already know, this method is inferior because the entire time you are taking up slack the rope is not in a brake position.) Anyway - the real issue in this case was that this guy was grabbing the brake strand with the PINKY of his non brake hand, and then completely removing his brake hand from the rope and reaching back down to the atc before grabbing the brake strand again.

I only saw him doing it at the end of the climb, and I didn't say anything to him about it. I've felt guilty for being silent since then, and if I ever see him in there again doing that I will say something to him.

I honestly see this all the time and it bothers me zero. Typically the brake hand is not being removed from the rope and you can quickly drop it into the brake position. Ultimately the person is on top rope and you can usually hold onto them using the up side of the rope. I am not saying it is ideal but I wouldn't be worried if I was being belayed that way.

I will just use the slap slip method since it is most similar to lead belaying. Most people don't really like that method either.

Siamang
Nov 15, 2003


gamera009 posted:

For references, I wear 8.5EEE in mens' shoes (Allen Edmonds).

8.5EEE AEs here too, weird. What have been your most comfortable shoes? I've worn Five Ten Rogues (super comfortable but not a serious shoe), Evolv Shamans (good in the forefoot but hurt my heels a lot, I have those bumps near the achilles tendons), and Scarpa Boostics (in 42s and seem pretty good so far, had them about a month).

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

spwrozek posted:

I honestly see this all the time and it bothers me zero. Typically the brake hand is not being removed from the rope and you can quickly drop it into the brake position. Ultimately the person is on top rope and you can usually hold onto them using the up side of the rope. I am not saying it is ideal but I wouldn't be worried if I was being belayed that way.

The method is inferior, but I agree it's not really a big deal (especially on top rope in a gym setting, where there is generally tons of extra friction in the system). In this case though the guy was letting go of the brake strand and holding it with the pinky of his other hand. So basically just letting go of it completely. If my belayer did that to me, I would never climb with them again without some serious assurances. If you get habits like that in the gym on top rope, you will take them with you outside on lead, and that is bad news.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


RabidWeasel posted:

Most of the people I've climbed with are so much more experienced than me that I just assume that they're not going to gently caress up :shobon:

The more experienced climbers I roll with tend to leave more slack out. Not so much that I'll deck (and they've saved me from falling while clipping), but it's certainly a psychological adjustment.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Bud Manstrong posted:

Two-day turnaround if you're local!

Dropped them off tonight...not getting them back until a week from Tuesday. At least I have plenty of shoes!

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Siamang posted:

8.5EEE AEs here too, weird. What have been your most comfortable shoes? I've worn Five Ten Rogues (super comfortable but not a serious shoe), Evolv Shamans (good in the forefoot but hurt my heels a lot, I have those bumps near the achilles tendons), and Scarpa Boostics (in 42s and seem pretty good so far, had them about a month).

Most comfortable bouldering shoe: Shamans
Most comfortable multi pitch: Scarpa Helix (loosely tied)

I'd love to see if there's a good shoe for me out there, still. I just haven't had the motivation to look.

GoodbyeTurtles
Aug 18, 2012

:suezo:



I've been putting off climbing for nearly a year, mostly due to injury and partly because I can't seem to find anyone willing to come to the gym with me, but I think this week I'll just head in there and ask people if they don't mind me tagging along. Failing that, I'll just hit the bouldering walls solo.

I'm also considering getting a crashmat for a spot of bouldering up on dartmoor at some point soon, though the real dream is to do a bit of deep water solo around the Devon coast.

IrvingWashington
Dec 9, 2007


Clapping Larry

Harness talk: I've been using my cheapish BD bod harness for years, and I think it's time to get something more comfortable. I've always liked and heard good things about the various flavors of momentum, and the big wall too, and I'd buy one in a flash if the sizing wasn't putting me right in the middle of two sizes (33") so I'm looking further afield. So far I've found the Edelrid Jay, and the Petzl Corax. I like BD so much though I'm considering ordering from REI and then returning if the fit isn't right. Any other harnesses between $50 - $110 I should give a look? It's mostly for gym/top rope/sport, so aside from a set of quickdraws I'm not really fussed about weight or gear.

Second, what's in your basic anchor-building setup? I'd rather err on the side of too much rather than too little.

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Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

The bod? Really? That's basically an alpine harness. Basically anything you get will feel very different, and probably much better. I think most people in this thread use the Sama or Adjama, but there are a whole lot of choices in that $50 to $70 range.




Ed: If you're willing to go up to $120, that covers most harnesses made by most manufacturers. You may want to start narrowing by features instead of by price

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 05:29 on May 4, 2015

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