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Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Tots posted:

Is tying into top rope bolt anchors doable/safe with static rope instead of a sling?

A bolt hanger? Like this?

No. What kind of anchor do you mean? Static rope is fine for setting up a top rope, but don't put anything soft through a bolt hanger.

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Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


To be clearer, I want to use static rope instead of a sling in the following picture:

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Can't see any problem with that.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Tots posted:

To be clearer, I want to use static rope instead of a sling in the following picture:



Yes, people do that all the time. Edit: Typically using cordelette, which is what I am picturing when you say static rope.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Tots posted:

To be clearer, I want to use static rope instead of a sling in the following picture:



Yeah, absolutely fine.

Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


Assuming the setup in the picture, would a bowline attached to each carabiner at the top with a double figure eight on a bight for the bottom be safe?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Tots posted:

Assuming the setup in the picture, would a bowline attached to each carabiner at the top with a double figure eight on a bight for the bottom be safe?

I would tie the cordelette into a loop using two fisherman's as described here and then use it exactly like I would otherwise use a sling.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


Samesies, though there are safe ways to use it as you described.

Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


Cordelette used as a sling sounds much easier. Would 7mm thickness be strong enough? Also, i'm assuming that two fisherman method has like 0% chance of slip?

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


Yes and yes. Make sure to leave ~1" of tail (3x diameter) on those fisherman's.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Tots posted:

Cordelette used as a sling sounds much easier. Would 7mm thickness be strong enough? Also, i'm assuming that two fisherman method has like 0% chance of slip?

Yup.

Tots posted:

Assuming the setup in the picture, would a bowline attached to each carabiner at the top with a double figure eight on a bight for the bottom be safe?

I'd be interested in hearing if the bowlines will even make a difference. The system already seems redundant.

Just one piece of advice though. Please please please learn from someone who knows what they're doing or take a course.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


crazycello posted:

I'd be interested in hearing if the bowlines will even make a difference. The system already seems redundant.

Just one piece of advice though. Please please please learn from someone who knows what they're doing or take a course.

I think he's talking about using an unlooped length of cord where the bowlines would be used to create a loop to clip the cord to the anchor.

Seconding the education, a good instructor/course will provide you with both a set of standard practices to follow as well as the tools/knowledge around climbing anchors to be able to work through questions like this on your own which is a valuable skill the first time you drop/forget something important and are at the anchors under equipped.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

I usually tie a figure of 8 into one of the anchors, a figure of 8 on a bight in the centre to attach the carabiners for the climbing rope (which I usually clip in and throw down at this point), then a clove hitch on the other anchor, as it's easy to equalize and get enough tension through it.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Lowes used to sell a 4 to 16 ft extension pole, but they don't have it anymore. I am looking for something that goes from roughly 4 ft (so it will fit in a trunk) to at least 12 ft, ideally 16, and having a hell of a time finding one. Anyone know of something I can buy online?

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


armorer posted:

Lowes used to sell a 4 to 16 ft extension pole, but they don't have it anymore. I am looking for something that goes from roughly 4 ft (so it will fit in a trunk) to at least 12 ft, ideally 16, and having a hell of a time finding one. Anyone know of something I can buy online?

You mean a clip stick? I've got some version of this: http://www.trango.com/p-266-beta-stick.aspx

There are actually two longer versions than shown on the Trango website but I don't know where you can get them in the US. http://www.betaclimbingdesigns.com/products/brands/climb/betastick/betastick-sport/beta-stick-sport-v2.html

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Stick clips... Getting to the first bolt is part of the fun!

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

Stick clips: nothing more embarrassing than breaking your ankle on a warm up

Build your own stick clip. You need a painters pole, 2 hose clamps, and an adjustable spring clamp.

tortilla_chip fucked around with this message at 16:50 on May 14, 2015

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Yeah - for a stick clip. I am looking for an adjustable painters pole like I described. That tango thing is pretty expensive but the collapsible range is basically right for what I want.

Meatbag Esq.
May 3, 2006

Hmm which internet meme should go here again?

So I joined my gyms bouldering league in the v3-5 bracket but really I'm probably at the lower end of that spectrum. (Currently doing probly 80-90% of v3s and 30-40% of v4s). Any suggestions for training over the next few weeks so I'm not dragging down my team?

Either common skills worth developing in that range or even just basic training ideas would be appreciated.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

armorer posted:

Lowes used to sell a 4 to 16 ft extension pole, but they don't have it anymore. I am looking for something that goes from roughly 4 ft (so it will fit in a trunk) to at least 12 ft, ideally 16, and having a hell of a time finding one. Anyone know of something I can buy online?

http://hydestore.com/richard-95077-4-to-12-soft-grip-aluminium-extension-pole-3-sections.html

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/589006-unger-professional-3-section-telepole.html

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ettore-16-ft-Reach-Extension-Pole-44016/204267834?N=5yc1vZcb3g

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.


Awesome, thanks! Pretty sure that Ettore one is the one Lowes used to carry.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Any good tips for winter specific training? It's a little while to go yet but my last season was a complete washout and I live a lot further away from the ice now so I want to make every trip up there count. At the moment I'm just doing lots of axe pullups. I climb leashless but I'm doing most of my pullups on straight shafted tools to simulate those gripped runouts.

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


Does anyone have any tips for knowing when pain or discomfort means 'take a break for a few days/weeks' rather than it just being standard aches after training? I've got a really, really mild finger niggle but I seem to have broken through a plateau and I'm smashing v4-6's all over the place (indoors :() so I'd rather not take a break unless I had to...but I'm paranoid about a niggle turning into a proper injury.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

toiletbrush posted:

Does anyone have any tips for knowing when pain or discomfort means 'take a break for a few days/weeks' rather than it just being standard aches after training? I've got a really, really mild finger niggle but I seem to have broken through a plateau and I'm smashing v4-6's all over the place (indoors :() so I'd rather not take a break unless I had to...but I'm paranoid about a niggle turning into a proper injury.

How often are you training and how long have you had the problem? If you've had 1 or 2 rest days and it's still there, I'd say it needs more rest. If it's new, then hopefully it'll go soon. I personally try not to climb on anything more than normal muscle aches, because I'd rather have 3-4 days off than have to stop climbing for a month or 2.

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


Chris! posted:

How often are you training and how long have you had the problem? If you've had 1 or 2 rest days and it's still there, I'd say it needs more rest. If it's new, then hopefully it'll go soon. I personally try not to climb on anything more than normal muscle aches, because I'd rather have 3-4 days off than have to stop climbing for a month or 2.
Cheers, yeah thats exactly what I'm thinking. It's been lurking around for about a month now, starts to hurt towards the end of the session on the odd random crimp here or there and then for a day or so afterwards. I'm only climbing 2-3 days a week so its always 'cleared' when I go back. Theres no swelling or tenderness, its really mild discomfort more than pain, and I can't find any way to deliberately make it hurt (massaging, squeezing, any kind of finger movement/strain does nothing - it just randomly happens) and its totally gone in a day or so...I wouldn't be worried apart from the fact that it keeps coming back!

toiletbrush fucked around with this message at 12:21 on May 15, 2015

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Try to work on more open have crimps. It will put less stress on your joints.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

Try to work on more open have crimps. It will put less stress on your joints.

Hahaha ignore this fellow.

Crimp hard. Crimp often. Crimp closed or open. Crimp everything. :colbert:

Get on the Beastmaker and go to town.

You should actually rest your hands if they're still sore and painful after a session, and work on slopers. They are superior to crimps anyways.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

big scary monsters posted:

Any good tips for winter specific training? It's a little while to go yet but my last season was a complete washout and I live a lot further away from the ice now so I want to make every trip up there count. At the moment I'm just doing lots of axe pullups. I climb leashless but I'm doing most of my pullups on straight shafted tools to simulate those gripped runouts.

Do that, but with this variation:

Have multiple sets of pegs so you can pull up, take one handle off, move it to another peg, then lower. Practice moving your grips and swapping hands while hanging one-handed.

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


spwrozek posted:

Try to work on more open have crimps. It will put less stress on your joints.
I dont crimp much at all lately because most of the time I can get away with open hand/dragging, maybe thats the problem.

sloper routes are the best routes

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Crimps for life. Sloppers are the worst.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


spwrozek posted:

Crimps for life. Sloppers are the worst.

Slopers are literally Hitler please ignore the fact that I am awful at them.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


spwrozek posted:

Crimps for life. Sloppers are the worst.

jug life

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


You can crimp a sloper if you're strong enough...

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

Crimps for life. Sloppers are the worst.

I suppose that would explain why you can't do the V2 on the garage wall. :c00lbert:

modig
Aug 20, 2002


spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

I suppose that would explain why you can't do the V2 on the garage wall. :c00lbert:

45 degree overhang with sloppers... :suicide: :suicide:

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Climbed up in clear creek canyon today.

Me crossing the tyrolean.


My buddy crossing the tyrolean.


In the belay pod.


Looking down from the top.


In the belay Pod


In the belay pod some more.


We saw a few rafts and kayaks roll by while over there and also while I was pulling back across the traverse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnQr0NCNxnA

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009



New thread title.



spwrozek posted:

Climbed up in clear creek canyon today.





Man, I really got to get up to CCC. :(

Tarnien
Jul 4, 2003
Champion of the World!!!

RIP Dean Potter. Really bummed about this.

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/dean-potter-killed-in-wingsuit-accident-in-yosemite

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GoodbyeTurtles
Aug 18, 2012

:suezo:




Someone put this on a shirt and I'll buy it.

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