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tynam
May 14, 2007


Finally got to climb out at JTree this past weekend, and goddamn it felt like I'm learning to climb all over again. Was able to get a bunch of V1's and a few roped routes before my body shut down. I can finally understand why people like crack climbing so much - when there's no other features on a wall except a long crack, jamming a hand and foot in feels so secure it's amazing. It was a 95' route and I didn't even notice I was done until I got to the anchor - too much fun.

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Swan Oat
Oct 9, 2012

I was selected for my skill.

I am pretty new to rock climbing, just started in February this year. But my friends and I really love it, and we probably go to the rock gym 3-5 times a week, depending on our schedules and stuff. Are there any exercises or things I could do at home/on days I don't climb to help improve? I'm starting to hit some 10Bs :toot: but would like to continue improving. Preferably nothing requiring too much equipment. Thanks!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I would suggest that you rest on those days.

If you are not leading yet start doing that, top rope sucks.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



If you refuse to rest on off days, just do core exercises those are really good for climbing and you probably wont hurt yourself doing them

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


spwrozek posted:


If you are not leading yet start doing that, top rope sucks.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

I would suggest that you rest on those days.

If you are not bouldering yet start doing that, top rope sucks.

QFT

:c00lbutt:

compton ass terry
Nov 20, 2006

Do you know where I'm from?

Bouldering is a great reality check for me. Started climbing two ish months ago. Can climb all the 5.8's in my gym and about half the 5.9's. I still struggle with some of the v1's and most the v2's (mostly the multi angle stuff, but some really tough holds too)

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

I don't like making GBS threads on toproping because it's still climbing and therefore still fun, but lead really is way cooler. Just make sure that you learn from someone with decent experience when you learn to lead so that you use safe technique!

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


Mahlertov Cocktail posted:

I don't like making GBS threads on toproping because it's still climbing and therefore still fun, but lead really is way cooler. Just make sure that you learn from someone with decent experience when you learn to lead so that you use safe technique!

Climbing is climbing, if you're going to be elitist about it then anything short of trad is obviously easy mode anyway and everyone should aspire to free solo climbing. Or not because that's super dumb, just climb how you want, learning to lead is something you're almost certainly going to want to do eventually but the guys who act like top roping isn't "real climbing" are usually assholes, or have been doing it for so many years that they've forgotten what it's like to be inexperienced.

Keldoclock
Jan 5, 2014

by zen death robot


Here is some levity.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsAiOYXC-k0

Besides we all know ice climbing is the real climbing :smuggo:

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

RabidWeasel posted:

Climbing is climbing, if you're going to be elitist about it then anything short of trad is obviously easy mode anyway and everyone should aspire to free solo climbing. Or not because that's super dumb, just climb how you want, learning to lead is something you're almost certainly going to want to do eventually but the guys who act like top roping isn't "real climbing" are usually assholes, or have been doing it for so many years that they've forgotten what it's like to be inexperienced.

Yeah for sure. I had a great time toproping when I was newer to climbing and it's still very fun to do when I'm not able to lead climb.

Pedestrian Xing
Jul 18, 2007



My buddies and I really want to do lead climbing but injuries have kinda held us back lately. So many awesome looking routes that are lead only...

Anyone in the atlanta/Chattanooga area know any groups that do outdoor climbing regularly? Want to get outside.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Mahlertov Cocktail posted:

I don't like making GBS threads on toproping because it's still climbing and therefore still fun, but lead really is way cooler. Just make sure that you learn from someone with decent experience when you learn to lead so that you use safe technique!

I highly recommend practicing clipping in all four configurations (outward facing gate left hand, inward facing gate left hand, outward right, inward right).

http://www.climbingtechniques.org/clipping-bolts-on-lead.html

I actually just set up a QD on the back of one of my dining room chairs and practiced clipping for a few hours every night in front of the teevee.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Save me jeebus posted:

I highly recommend practicing clipping in all four configurations (outward facing gate left hand, inward facing gate left hand, outward right, inward right).

http://www.climbingtechniques.org/clipping-bolts-on-lead.html

I actually just set up a QD on the back of one of my dining room chairs and practiced clipping for a few hours every night in front of the teevee.

Agreed. I'd add clipping on a free-hanging (not resting on a wall or chair) draw. You'll be surprised how much you rely on having a wall behind the draw to hold it for clipping.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



RabidWeasel posted:

Climbing is climbing, if you're going to be elitist about it then anything short of trad is obviously easy mode anyway and everyone should aspire to free solo climbing. Or not because that's super dumb, just climb how you want, learning to lead is something you're almost certainly going to want to do eventually but the guys who act like top roping isn't "real climbing" are usually assholes, or have been doing it for so many years that they've forgotten what it's like to be inexperienced.

I get what you are saying but for me top rope just sucks. The rope is in the way, I get no joy out of the climb, I get lazy with my movement because you don't need to think, you lose the game of route finding and figuring the best clipping stance (I don't trad so I can't comment on that), I just get bored in all honesty.

I don't really see this as being elitist by telling him to get leading, it is really about opening up the door to actually climbing outside. I love to lead climb and just want people who climb to find that same joy.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


That's fine I just think that there's way too much pressure on new climbers to start leading as soon as they possibly can and I think that some of the arguments used are pretty bullshit. Not everyone wants (or is able) to climb outside and clipping into quick draws isn't a critical core part of the climbing experience (whatever the gently caress that means) it's just something which has come to be accepted as a good compromise between freedom of movement and safety. The aggrivation of a top rope in your face or blocking your hands is definitely real but so is the frustration of knowing you could make a move if you didn't have to stop to clip in an awkward spot - I feel like these sorts of things are fairly comparable.

I mean I personally prefer good hard bouldering to most climbs because it's just me and the wall, no harness or ropes or anything, the one and only thing you have to think about is making the moves, and that's really what I find most exciting about the sport. I don't care if I'm 2 inches or 200 feet from the ground, except obviously I want something to keep me from becoming man pizza in the latter case :)

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

I'm honestly the same feeling but opposite. I'd rather take a fall and be caught by the rope than worry about if the crash pad will be in the right spot.

Sport/trad every time. (Except the gym, which is just training anyway.)

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Speleothing posted:

lead trad every time

ftfy

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


For a lot of people gym time is their "climbing experience", not "just training" and that is absolutely OK.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Finally got to see Valley Uprising. Good poo poo.

RIP Potter.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Dutymode posted:

For a lot of people gym time is their "climbing experience", not "just training" and that is absolutely OK.

That's all I get currently. I'm so keen to try some outside, and get to lead but with time and gear both at a premium all my friends and I get is 3 hours a week in a gym top roping.

So, you know, that's for not making GBS threads on my experience.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Megabound posted:

That's all I get currently. I'm so keen to try some outside, and get to lead but with time and gear both at a premium all my friends and I get is 3 hours a week in a gym top roping.

So, you know, that's for not making GBS threads on my experience.

Are you close to any bouldering? As long as you have shoes, and some chalk in a ziplock, most boulders are perfectly happy to let you crash on their pads.

Or at least, I've always welcomed people who wanted to climb and also be safe, and let them climb with me so they have access to a pad.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



gamera009 posted:

Are you close to any bouldering? As long as you have shoes, and some chalk in a ziplock, most boulders are perfectly happy to let you crash on their pads.

Or at least, I've always welcomed people who wanted to climb and also be safe, and let them climb with me so they have access to a pad.

I've got a few very nice people who want to take me out, but I univeristy Mon-Fri and work every Saturday and about every 3rd Sunday and they almost always have meets on days that aren't copacetic.

It'll get better during uni holidays, but right now I'm still having a blast indoors, luckily I'm spoiled for choice with gyms.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I live at least 5 hours from any decent outdoor climbing, and I'm too busy for frequent trips as well. When I do go, climbing outdoors for me is more about hanging out with friends and relaxing. I climb much harder indoors - I don't think I've ever had an outdoor project.

On top of that, I'm lucky enough to get to set at my bouldering gym. That's a whole other side of climbing that's a lot harder to experience outdoors.

Indoor climbing and setting is more convenient and fun for me, but not everyone. Just climb whatever way you like!

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Dutymode posted:

For a lot of people gym time is their "climbing experience", not "just training" and that is absolutely OK.

Sometimes you train 48 weeks to climb outside for 2 days in September. :v:

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Speleothing posted:

Sometimes you train 48 weeks to climb outside for 2 days in September. :v:

WELL WHAT DID YOU DO WITH THOSE OTHER 4 WEEKS?

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Christmas for two.

Rest week before and after the trip.

roymorrison
Jul 26, 2005


Has anybody climbed pilot mountain in NC? I would like to climb a real thing one day and thats the closest

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World


Dutymode posted:

I live at least 5 hours from any decent outdoor climbing, and I'm too busy for frequent trips as well. When I do go, climbing outdoors for me is more about hanging out with friends and relaxing. I climb much harder indoors - I don't think I've ever had an outdoor project.

On top of that, I'm lucky enough to get to set at my bouldering gym. That's a whole other side of climbing that's a lot harder to experience outdoors.

Indoor climbing and setting is more convenient and fun for me, but not everyone. Just climb whatever way you like!

My worst day doing the lamest climbing when I feel lovely is better than the best day I ever had lifting weights or running half marathons.

It also did more to improve my appearance than those things, and did it way faster.

Also I'm an old bastard, and the "you are old now" neck and back problems I started having before climbing went away.

Climbing owns. :getin:

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


So last night while doing a move open handing from a tiny crimp my forearm went all twangy and a pain shot down from my ring finger to my elbow. I went home straight away, but apart from a dull ache for a couple of hours, the pain went away pretty quickly and there was no swelling or redness. This morning, doing pretty much anything with it feels ok, as long as my pinky is either fully engaged or out straight - anything else and any tension on the tip of my ring finger really hurts deep in my forearm. I'm off to the docs to get it looked at, but does anyone else have experience with this?

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


The IFSC bouldering world cup started off in Toronto this past Friday. They're pretty good about getting the replays up quickly so you can bitch about the camerawork watch some awesome competitions; Toronto's already up there.

https://www.youtube.com/user/ifscchannel/videos

Typically you can watch them live as well at http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Dutymode posted:

The IFSC bouldering world cup started off in Toronto this past Friday. They're pretty good about getting the replays up quickly so you can bitch about the camerawork watch some awesome competitions; Toronto's already up there.

https://www.youtube.com/user/ifscchannel/videos

Typically you can watch them live as well at http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/.

If anyone is in CO I will be up in Vail for the semi-finals and finals next Saturday. Let me know and say hi if you are there.

Suicide Watch
Sep 8, 2009


delete

Suicide Watch fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jun 1, 2015

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



toiletbrush posted:

So last night while doing a move open handing from a tiny crimp my forearm went all twangy and a pain shot down from my ring finger to my elbow. I went home straight away, but apart from a dull ache for a couple of hours, the pain went away pretty quickly and there was no swelling or redness. This morning, doing pretty much anything with it feels ok, as long as my pinky is either fully engaged or out straight - anything else and any tension on the tip of my ring finger really hurts deep in my forearm. I'm off to the docs to get it looked at, but does anyone else have experience with this?

Flexor unit strain (tendons in your forearm controlling finger flexion). You should be able to climb more or less normally, maybe after a few days off and some ibuprofen, just avoiding any open handing with your pinky dropped (front 3 or middle 2). I'd suggest taping your ring finger and pinky together to stop your pinky moving into a dropped position, but crimping should still be fine. Unfortunately, they take loving ages to heal. I did the same thing maybe a couple of years ago, and am only just feeling confident enough to pull on pockets with my middle 2.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


sean10mm posted:


It also did more to improve my appearance than those things, and did it way faster.


'Sean10mm's starting strength' right here folks.

sean10mm posted:

Climbing owns. :getin:

But very very true.

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World


crazycello posted:

'Sean10mm's starting strength' right here folks.

Huh? :confused:

e: I know I posted about newbie weight routines like 7-8 years ago, but I didn't expect a historic :iceburn: over it in 2015?

sean10mm fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Jun 2, 2015

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


Still B.A.E posted:

You should be able to climb more or less normally, maybe after a few days off and some ibuprofen, just avoiding any open handing with your pinky dropped (front 3 or middle 2). I'd suggest taping your ring finger and pinky together to stop your pinky moving into a dropped position, but crimping should still be fine.
Awesome, thanks!

quote:

Unfortunately, they take loving ages to heal. I did the same thing maybe a couple of years ago, and am only just feeling confident enough to pull on pockets with my middle 2.
The thing is, when I have my pinky straight or at least paralell with my ring finger, nothing hurts at all, so I don't quite get the mechanics of whats going on...does that mean holds that dont hurt are 'safe', or should I still be fairly gentle with anything that involves my ring finger? Luckily pockets are really rare at the gym I climb at, but I'm just wondering about other crimpy holds I would have open handed(tons of them).

toiletbrush fucked around with this message at 11:38 on Jun 3, 2015

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



I'm not so sure on the mechanics of it myself, but I generally found that pinky in line with ring finger = fine. Obviously go by feel, if you get that uncomfortable pulling feeling from your ring finger at any point, hold the hold in a different way or go and do something else.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


It feels like a while ago that I barely climbed a 5.8 for the first time. finally it feels like I can make it up most 5.8 that are put up. I think for the first time I can start looking for some 5.9 to start working into.

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Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Finally getting comfortable with a good number of the v3s currently set at my gym. Even snagged a crimpy slab v4 that was pretty fun. And then, for some reason, there are v2s around that I just. can't. get. :argh:

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