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crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


It's because climbing grades are arbitrary, subjective, and vary between route setters and gyms. That's why my personal self worth is so tied to them.

Ravenfood posted:

Finally getting comfortable with a good number of the v3s currently set at my gym. Even snagged a crimpy slab v4 that was pretty fun. And then, for some reason, there are v2s around that I just. can't. get. :argh:

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benwards
Apr 9, 2007

Another youthful indiscretion


crazycello posted:

It's because climbing grades are arbitrary, subjective, and vary between route setters and gyms. That's why my personal self worth is so tied to them.

But if you take your shirt off and yell when you dyno to that micro-crimp, you'll definitely climb a full grade better.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012



benwards posted:

But if you take your shirt off and yell when you dyno to that micro-crimp, you'll definitely climb a full grade better.

The gym I climb at has a strict shirts on at all times policy. Why don't they want me to succeed?

Pedestrian Xing
Jul 18, 2007



When I boulder I wear only a beanie and man tights

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


Beanie definitely makes you climb half a grade better. Headband is a full grade.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite


Al's Diner (My first 5.13!)

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E


Great picture, looks like fun...!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Nice send dude!!!!

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009



:eyepop:

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe


That is one amazing photo, congratulations on the send!

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009



That's terrific. Congrats.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Had a really fun day climbing at Horseshoe Quarry in the Peak District, until my climbing partner broke his ankle falling on the second bolt trying to clip the 3rd. He didn't quite deck, but caught his foot coming down. 5 hour drive there, did 5 climbs, 5 hour drive back. Still fun, at least it didn't happen on the first climb of the day.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



By "caught his foot coming down" do you mean he hit it on the ground, or what?

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Nifty posted:

By "caught his foot coming down" do you mean he hit it on the ground, or what?

No it hit a feature on the rock as he fell. It turns out it was a worse injury than we thought, he's broken both his fibula and his tibia and has ruptured a tendon, and at 3am on Sunday developed compartment syndrome, which is a build up of blood in the fracture which he says was pretty agonising. That necessitated emergency surgery, and he's having another operation today to put some steel pins or steel plate or something in his ankle.

In hindsight there are a couple of things he should have done - most importantly, clipped the 3rd bolt, which he could have reached but didn't notice until just before he fell. Also kicking away from the wall when he fell would have prevented his foot catching. I was belaying, and if I'd paid more attention I could have told him about the bolt next to him. It was one of the last climbs of the day, only a 6a+ so we didn't expect him to get into difficulties or slip. We'll both pay more attention in future for sure. Maybe we got complacent. If he'd clipped in he'd have been fine, as it is it's going to be a while before he can walk again, let alone climb.

Chris! fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Jun 8, 2015

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


IFSC Bouldering World Cup continued in Vail this last weekend. The big news was Alex Puccio completely tearing her ACL and partially tearing her MCL in an awkward fall from about 4 feet up in the warmup area. Really unfortunate with the progress she's made this winter.

The finals were Saturday, then Adam Ondra went and flashed Jade in RMNP yesterday.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Dutymode posted:

IFSC Bouldering World Cup continued in Vail this last weekend. The big news was Alex Puccio completely tearing her ACL and partially tearing her MCL in an awkward fall from about 4 feet up in the warmup area. Really unfortunate with the progress she's made this winter.

The finals were Saturday, then Adam Ondra went and flashed Jade in RMNP yesterday.

I went and watched the finals live, it was great. I highly suggest watching the video of men's 4 and I believe it was female 3.

Uncle_Jemima
Dec 1, 2004


I'm gonna loving send 14a and v10 this summer or die trying and its gonna be sick.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


If a guidebook says when talking about the descent sequence "three more rappels with a 60-meter rope end on the ground", does this mean a 60m single rope (with a tag) rappel or a 60m halved over the rap rings at the anchor for a 30m rap?

Edit: I consulted the topo more carefully and it looks like they were just trying to avoid leaving people who brought 50m ropes, 5m off the deck. 4x 30m raps complete the descent.

SeaborneClink fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Jun 9, 2015

YourCreation
Jan 4, 2004

A little creative surgery helps turn a few sick pets into a new and improved friend!


Dutymode posted:

Really unfortunate with the progress she's made this winter.

That super sucks. She's an incredible climber and it's a shame to see her floored by an unfortunate injury.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


Dutymode posted:

The finals were Saturday, then Adam Ondra went and flashed Jade in RMNP yesterday.

in case you missed it, watch this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SpfIEes3lnw

then this:
https://www.island.io/island/adam-ondra-flashes-in-rmnp

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


I climbed tonight for the first time since my forearm strain, got the OK from the physio a week and a bit ago and nothing during the day tweaks it at all. Was surprisingly good, I crimped a few holds that I'd normally open hand and avoided pockets entirely, but otherwise climbed at pretty much my previous level without any issues, even finished a few routes I couldn't do before. Still sucks that I have to be careful, but not as heartbroken as I was two weeks ago...and I'm going to get loving *amazing* at slopers.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Can anyone link me some good resources on anchor building? I'm most interested in natural anchors for top rope at the moment, but I plan to start lead climbing outdoors later this year. Most of the stuff I have found is focused on bolted TR or trad anchors.

I have taken a class on building natural anchors already, but I'd like to have something to read or watch as a refresher before a trip.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLajYFniMZtJjgk0hlM7SN28GCdEFe42Hw

Here are some AMGA videos that might be of use.

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



What's a good method to belay from above (like a seconding climber) with a Grigri when there's no good way to set up a redirect?

Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jun 23, 2015

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Sigmund Fraud posted:

What's a good method to belay from above (like a seconding climber) with a Grigri when there's no good way to set up a redirect?
Edit: nm

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


turevidar posted:

Can anyone link me some good resources on anchor building? I'm most interested in natural anchors for top rope at the moment, but I plan to start lead climbing outdoors later this year. Most of the stuff I have found is focused on bolted TR or trad anchors.

I have taken a class on building natural anchors already, but I'd like to have something to read or watch as a refresher before a trip.

http://www.chauvinguides.com/Anchoring.PDF is pretty good. Sliding X with overhand knots at each end would be better than the plain sliding x they've described in most situations.

crazycello fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Jun 24, 2015

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I almost feel like I am letting everyone down by not posting more pictures! Get your stoke on.

First a few random pictures from clear creek canyon in ole Colorado.

My girl Alex first outdoor lead


Me dicking around on a 5.10a


Alex rapping off after a chill 5.9 2 pitch


Alex high stepping which "never works" according to her, little does she know


Last weekend I went camping and climbing down at Devil's Head in Colorado. This place was great, I had completely forgot what it means to climb without crowds. Really sharp and clean granite for the most part although we ran into one poo poo and dirty 5.9.

Crew on the hike out (takes about 35-60 min from camp)


The most chill crag dog ever, came all the way from China


The mighty crag of wipeyur buttress (Sound it out...) for day one


Hiking down and down (after up and up) to the crag


Sadie on her first 5.9 lead outside


Sadie hanging out while seconding pitch 2 of this nice 5.10b: Upperdeck-n-spackle It was a great lead.


Boer putting the hammer down on Tusk 5.11d


Day 2 success at Chicken Head Ranch, this was one bitching 4 star route: Wishbone Dihedral 5.11b. This was the highlight of the trip for me. Super hard, very sustained.


Nice views, Pikes Peak on the left


Got on this interesting route as well Gut Bomb 5.10d.

Now I am sitting at DIA as I am off to climb at the Red Sunday-Wednesday. Been 4 years since I was last there. I have some sweet 11's I would like to get on. Hopefully lots of good pictures to come in about a week or so.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Went sport climbing at a little quarry in Wales today called Tirpentwys. I haven't tied on a rope in probably 8 months and only been bouldering a few times in that period so I was not very good, dogged a whole bunch of routes and failed on some stuff that would have felt easy before, but I felt pretty comfortable on lead and it was great to have a chilled day touching rocks.

Get back on it climbing slackers and people who think they are too busy to climb these days, it's still as good and fun as it used to be.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


I went out bouldering at night on Friday with a couple friends and had a blast. I sent my first outdoor V4 just as the sun was going down. Climbing after dark is a ton of fun, it cools off and all the bugs go away.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

Yesterday, I took a tour of the nearly completed First Ascent climbing gym in Chicago. Its looking pretty sweet. The support skeleton for the sport climbing was completely up and probably about 40% of the wall pieces were up. About half of the bouldering skeleton was up. Sounds like they should be opening up in mid August. If you're in Chicago I'd recommend doing one of their hard hat tours.

Its great that Chicago has gone from zero dedicated sport climbing gyms in the city to two in the last year.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Oh the Red...I now know why everyone is stick clipping everything all the time. I will share a bunch of pictures when I get back to CO next weekend.

I mention stick clipping though as I took the worst fall of my life when I missed the obvious side pull and reached up for the crimp on an 11A I was on. The first bolt was about 15-20' off the deck in normal red standards and I was basically just below it. Couldn't clip off the crimp, balance all wrong, no grip, sweating bullets. Finally blew off and went right to the deck. My buddy made a valiant attempt to slow me down and I pretty much came out of it unscathed, just a sore hip and bruised pride. I my buddy hit his knee on a rock and was a little sore from that but basically OK. It was probably the scariest moment I have had climbing.

Then I decided to get right back at it and sent the route like a champ.

We grabbed a loaner stick clip yesterday but didn't use it. I really needed not to use it to get out of my head.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

tortilla_chip posted:

Stick clips: nothing more embarrassing than breaking your ankle on a warm up

Glad you're ok

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



tortilla_chip posted:

Glad you're ok

Yeah, me too.

GoodbyeTurtles
Aug 18, 2012

:suezo:



BOULDERING


Then both phones ran out of battery so no pictures of actual climbing. Good warmup on a few pretty easy problems but we were mostly just scouting the place out for anything that looked climbable / fun.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Dartmoor?

Fatkraken
Jun 23, 2005

Fun-time is over.

Going to watch the finals of some bouldering event in Sheffield tomorrow. I've only been climbing (indoor top roping) a few months so I'm excited to see how the high level dudes do it and marvel at their skills.

GoodbyeTurtles
Aug 18, 2012

:suezo:




Yeah, me and a friend were checking out downtor. Since going I've looked up different problems to try there (and on the tors / boulders nearby) so I'll likely head out there again soon. The granite is really grippy but was tearing my hands up pretty quick. Might try cuckoo rock next time I'm up there too.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Fatkraken posted:

Going to watch the finals of some bouldering event in Sheffield tomorrow. I've only been climbing (indoor top roping) a few months so I'm excited to see how the high level dudes do it and marvel at their skills.
Have fun! That sounds great, I'd love to go see something like that.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Ladies and gentlemen, the climbing picture of the day.


(This is me at Harrison's rocks in Sussex. Leading isn't possible as the rocks are soft sandstone. My face doesn't always do that).

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RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


That rock makes me want to throw up, gently caress standstone forever.

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