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Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Haha, I know. Unfortunately it's the only rock within a reasonable distance to me, except chalk. For those who haven't climbed on soft sandstone, it has so few positive holds, and any pockets tend to be really slopey and smooth... In the picture, I'm trying to climb a finger/hand crack, but the crack flares out and is so smooth that I just don't see how it's possible. There's nothing to hold! It makes climbing on limestone etc seem so much easier though...

You can pretty much see my feelings about sandstone written over my face ;)

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



The last couple trips have been pretty good but I haven't had many people with me and so the photos are not really there. But here all the neat stuff I have got on in the last couple weeks.

Red River Gorge:
Day 1
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/plate-tectonics/106065471
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/gettin-lucky-in-kentucky/106065461
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/fifth-bolt-faith/106170048
Day 2
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/ledgends-of-limonite/106580254
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/dynabolt-gold/106422472
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/edge-a-sketch/106657106
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/boltergeist/106580228
Day 3
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/ohio-climbing/108524421 (worst route of the trip)
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/workin-for-the-weekend/106130303 (Second best of the trip)
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/return-of-manimal/106061901 (Best of the trip)

Clear Creek Canyon:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/playin-hooky/106701638

This was a fun one that I ended up leading almost all the pitches. It got really interesting with 2 raps to go though. The rain moved in and then it just unloaded, absolutely pouring. Then lightning and thunder. We got down safely and made the hike out. Ended up very wet but it was a good time.

Independence Pass:
Day 1
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/truth-decay/106016560
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/bucket-brigade/107649997
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/storm-jumper/106205630 (This route was seriously bitchin and my girl followed it on TR)
Day 2
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-other-white-meat/106242310
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/eager-beaver/107747731
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/bush-pilot/106242698 (has a pretty awesome arete move, good route)

This place was great. Climbing at about 10,000', it is cool (compared to the 90's near Denver, there are no people, the rock is super solid and sharp granite. I was in serious love and really want to get back before the season ends up there.

This has been a banner year for climbing even though we have been fighting constant rain in Colorado.

If I see any good pictures I will toss them up.

Keldoclock
Jan 5, 2014

by zen death robot


Today I rode my bicycle for about 3 hours to get to Rocky Butte in Portland, OR. There was broken glass on the trails, broken glass on the anchors, broken glass on the holds(that one surprised me. Someone must have been throwing empty bottles up from the base of the butte). I half climbed, half scrambled up 2 easy routes since I didn't want to free solo anything that I could gently caress up. What a travesty. It could have been an OK spot in a great location. It probably was once.

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



Just landed myself an A2 pulley injury on my right ring finger trying to repeat a boulder indoors. In retrospect the warm up could've been a bit better. Good crimps on the problem but you deadpointed to them hard with much of your bodyweight following. Sounded like a twig snapping and the whole finger went numb. A bit swollen but no bowstringing so it's only a partial rupture. Climbing buddy happens to be a doctor and inspected it. He says it's prolly chlamydia.

Anyways I plan to follow this guide: http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/finger-tendon-pulley-injury/

Keep it cool for five days and eat ibuprofen. No climbing at all for 30 days. Perhaps alternating hot and cold baths for it in the meantime. Got a therapeutic squeeze ball too somewhere... Then there's a climbing trip planned but the crags got plenty of trad cracks so I guess that's what I'll be focusing on.

Any more tips?

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

Keldoclock posted:

Portland, OR climbing

I was never very impressed with the local climbing options in Portland. Frenchman's Dome should be in season at this point, it was my favorite area while I was out there.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Sigmund Fraud posted:

Just landed myself an A2 pulley injury on my right ring finger trying to repeat a boulder indoors. In retrospect the warm up could've been a bit better. Good crimps on the problem but you deadpointed to them hard with much of your bodyweight following. Sounded like a twig snapping and the whole finger went numb. A bit swollen but no bowstringing so it's only a partial rupture. Climbing buddy happens to be a doctor and inspected it. He says it's prolly chlamydia.

Anyways I plan to follow this guide: http://www.nicros.com/training/articles/finger-tendon-pulley-injury/

Keep it cool for five days and eat ibuprofen. No climbing at all for 30 days. Perhaps alternating hot and cold baths for it in the meantime. Got a therapeutic squeeze ball too somewhere... Then there's a climbing trip planned but the crags got plenty of trad cracks so I guess that's what I'll be focusing on.

Any more tips?

No real tips but you've got my sympathy, A2 injuries loving suck even when they're not that serious. Just take it super easy when you get back into it, you might find that some holds cause you pain or soreness even if they seem like jugs. Back off those and just go with what feels OK, for me that meant open handing everything but really that's good training anyway.

Don't think that chlamydia should affect your climbing much.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


Sigmund Fraud posted:

Keep it cool for five days and eat ibuprofen. No climbing at all for 30 days. Perhaps alternating hot and cold baths for it in the meantime. Got a therapeutic squeeze ball too somewhere... Then there's a climbing trip planned but the crags got plenty of trad cracks so I guess that's what I'll be focusing on.

Any more tips?

I'd recommend checking out the Anderson bros' RCTM for good info on injury rehab. Good thread on their message boards on the subject here: http://rockprodigytraining.proboards.com/thread/244/finger-injury-continue-start-again

Bottom line, consider giving less total rest (2 weeks instead of ~4 weeks) so you can start active rehabbing sooner. And when you do start re-habbing, consider using the hangboard with a counterweight system to remove a lot of weight so you can precisely control loads on your fingers, as opposed to just light climbing where you have much less control over loads on your fingers.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



I agree that 30 days total rest seems a bit much, active recovery and progressive loading is now thought to be better for tendon recovery, aligning scar tissue in the right direction and all that poo poo, Dave MacLeod bangs that drum pretty hard in his book, make or break.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Yesterday Gamera009 and I went and tackled what is probably the hardest climb either of us has been on.

The day started at about 5 am as I woke up, made a protein shake and egg and cheese bagel, grabbed all my climbing gear and hit the road. I made the 30 min drive up to G's house in Boulder, CO. We discussed the day a bit and loaded up his gear. About an hour later we hit Estes Park and were 8 miles from our destination. We finally rolled up to Mary's Bust! Our goal was right there on the southeast face! The goal in questions was The Brown Palace 5.11a, 6 pitches, 450'.

This is a monster route combing hard pitches and a long time on the wall. The pitches go as following:

Pitch 1: 5.9, 75'
Pitch 2: 5.10c, 80'
Pitch 3: 5.11a, 85'
Pitch 4: 5.11a?, 40'
Pitch 5: 5.10b, 120'
Pitch 6: 5.10d, 70'

The week prior we went over the plan and it was determined that I would tackle pitches 1, 3 and 5 while G did 2, 4, and 6.

So we are on the approach (all of a 5 min hike...) and well the rock looks a least a bit intimidating.


We get up to the route and are pretty pumped. After a gearing up and doing a radio check I am set to head off!

Here is a look at the start.


The first pitch is a sloping traverse to the right. Very different climbing for a normal bolt clipper like me.

The first pitch goes really smoothly though and I setup to bring G over. We agree that a 5.9 rating is good. G coming over to the first belay.


G starts off on pitch 2 and gets into a pretty good groove until hitting the crux. A small mistake and he pops off with a little fall. A good lead head goes far though and he surmounts the pitch and brings me up behind him. G thinks the pitch runs a bit harder at 5.11a, I wasn't leading but I think the 5.10c grade is appropriate.

Here is G at the pitch 2 belay.


Next I go tackle pitch 3. The first 75' is pretty cruiser at around 5.10a, it follows a brown dike in the rock and was a cool combination of pinches and stemming across the dike. Then I got to the obvious 11a crux traverse. I take a ill advised approach, missing an undercling. I am out right of the bolt on a poo poo crimp with my left and an awful side pull for the right, the feet are complete crap. I use my right to clip the draw to the bolt and then try to pull up rope and clip it. I get about 3 inches from the draw and my hand pops off. My feet are about 2' above the next bolt and slack is played out as I was pulling rope. I end up taking a pretty good 30' whipper. The big problem is the rope I was trying to clip somehow is getting tangled in my left hand. I am frantically trying to free it while falling. I get mostly free before the catch but my pinky on my right hand gets bloody and somehow injured, most likely due to the rope. I landed OK but hit my hip and shoulder and jammed my left hand middle finger. It was a great catch by G though, falling as far as I did really avoided a lot of protrusions in the dike.

I yard back up and take a little more left approach, clip the bolt, move left and find the thank you jesus holds to pull the bulge and finish the pitch. G comes up behind me. We both agree the pitch goes at a stiff 5.11a and is the hardest pitch on the route.

Here is a view down from the pitch 3 belay.


G heads off to the short pitch 4 that is basically a bouldery roof problem. He nails and and I follow him up. We both agree even for us short people it goes at 5.10b at most. Pitch 4 after G sets it.


Pitch 5 is up to me and I head off. The pitch goes pretty smoothly with some nice face climbing and a cool mini roof. G cruises up behind me and we make it down as 5.10b. G pulling over the mini roof..


That leaves pitch 6, all of a 5.10d to go. G is tired but ready.


I am checking some beta for him at the belay.


He heads off and finds micro slab with not great hands. Up near the crux he moves past the bolt and goes to clip the next one when off he goes and takes a good 20' fall (although it was the cleanest place to fall on the whole route). He shakes it out and works his way to the anchor, as he pulls the summit he lets out a big WOOOOOOOOOOOO! that echos through the canyon.

G after the fall.


Looking down at my right before I head up the last pitch.


I work my way up the last pitch a pull the little bulge to the summit! Success!!

G at the summit all pumped.


Me at the summit very elated.


Panos at the top.




Rapping down.


G dropped a glove on pitch 3...what did I find at the base though...


Us off the climb and heading back to the car.


We headed back to Lyons were we stop at Oscar Blues for for a well deserved burger and beer. All told 5:30 car to car.

What a great climb that took pretty much everything we had.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

That looks like a great time! I'm really keen to do a big multi-pitch climb like that. Good going!

tynam
May 14, 2007


Gearcoop is having a pretty massive "Member Appreciation" sale going on right now through 7/27. I picked up a new pair of shamans, addicts and 10 positron quickdraws for 220 bucks. Insane deals! Probably will also pick up some bd neutrinos at 3.50 a pop too.

magicalmako
Feb 13, 2005


Does anyone have crack climbing tips? I'm bad at it.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

magicalmako posted:

Does anyone have crack climbing tips? I'm bad at it.

Last weekend I attended a "crack climbing masterclass" run by the Wideboyz (famous for the first ascent of century crack, and a bunch of other good routes, and who were featured in the awesome Wideboyz climbing film (which is highly recommended)). The course was great, I learned a ton. See some pictures below.

Rather than regurgitating the stuff learned from there, search "Wild Country crack school", they've released some really helpful videos walking through crack climbing techniques. Even with my hands covered by tape gloves (which they show you how to make, and are invaluable I've realised), I'm still missing a fair bit of skin at the moment!

Chris! fucked around with this message at 08:17 on Jul 23, 2015

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



Chris! posted:

"Wild Country crack school",

Yeah these are really good videos. Also cool pictures, I bet that was well fun.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Still B.A.E posted:

Yeah these are really good videos. Also cool pictures, I bet that was well fun.

It was great! If you're in the UK, I think they do those classes semi-regularly around different locations, so look out for it. Really good value.

In other news, I'm going on a 3 week climbing holiday, leaving tomorrow, and my beautifully broken in La Sportiva Miuras got a split in the toe box last night. I've bought a new pair but really don't fancy the thought of having to break them in on an actual extended climbing trip... haven't got much choice, I'm wearing them around the office today!

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



Chris! posted:

It was great! If you're in the UK, I think they do those classes semi-regularly around different locations, so look out for it. Really good value.

In other news, I'm going on a 3 week climbing holiday, leaving tomorrow, and my beautifully broken in La Sportiva Miuras got a split in the toe box last night. I've bought a new pair but really don't fancy the thought of having to break them in on an actual extended climbing trip... haven't got much choice, I'm wearing them around the office today!

Is the split on the inside edge of the shoe, next to the big toe? Both mine and my mate's split there, kinda poo poo.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Still B.A.E posted:

Is the split on the inside edge of the shoe, next to the big toe? Both mine and my mate's split there, kinda poo poo.

It's here:

I bought them second hand so can't complain, but it's really annoying the day before a big trip. I think it was all the torquing and jamming at the crack climbing masterclass that did them in.

The new ones are the same size but feel slightly more baggy, even though they're not broken in, plus are obviously less comfortable and less sensitive because of the more pronounced edge. I wanted to try the new "edgeless" style shoes, but can't experiment with a new make of shoe during a trip I've been waiting ages for. Plus the climbing centre didn't have any in last night. Bah :(

Chris! fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Jul 23, 2015

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



If you aren't going to resole them I would just climb in them.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

spwrozek posted:

If you aren't going to resole them I would just climb in them.

Yeah I've no problem climbing in them over here for single sessions until they're in much worse state, but I'm going away tomorrow to climb on basalt (which is apparently very sharp, never climbed on it before) for 3 weeks, and can't really risk it getting much worse over there without being able to buy new shoes. Hopefully the new shoes will break in without too much hassle or pain...!

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Chris! posted:

Last weekend I attended a "crack climbing masterclass" run by the Wideboyz (famous for the first ascent of century crack, and a bunch of other good routes, and who were featured in the awesome Wideboyz climbing film (which is highly recommended)). The course was great, I learned a ton. See some pictures below.

Rather than regurgitating the stuff learned from there, search "Wild Country crack school", they've released some really helpful videos walking through crack climbing techniques. Even with my hands covered by tape gloves (which they show you how to make, and are invaluable I've realised), I'm still missing a fair bit of skin at the moment!


Crack climbing is good and excellent, possibly it is The Best (tm). Anybody who doesn't like it is a whiny baby.

FiestaDePantalones
May 13, 2005

Kicked in the pants by TFLC

If you live on the east coast, go to the New River Gorge. Period. Having an AMAZING time of it.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Still B.A.E posted:

Is the split on the inside edge of the shoe, next to the big toe? Both mine and my mate's split there, kinda poo poo.

Chris! posted:

It's here:

I bought them second hand so can't complain, but it's really annoying the day before a big trip. I think it was all the torquing and jamming at the crack climbing masterclass that did them in.

The new ones are the same size but feel slightly more baggy, even though they're not broken in, plus are obviously less comfortable and less sensitive because of the more pronounced edge. I wanted to try the new "edgeless" style shoes, but can't experiment with a new make of shoe during a trip I've been waiting ages for. Plus the climbing centre didn't have any in last night. Bah :(



That's where my Miuras tend to go through first too. Shame, 'cos they're about my favourite shoes but they're so painful to break in.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



With mine it wasn't so much them wearing through, just the sole splitting from the rand, which isn't that big a deal,but kind of compromises the edging ability. My miura laces are just my trad shoes though, so I'm not too bummed about it. It has reached the point now though where I need two new pairs of shoes at once. I'm not very happy about that.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Still B.A.E posted:

With mine it wasn't so much them wearing through, just the sole splitting from the rand, which isn't that big a deal,but kind of compromises the edging ability. My miura laces are just my trad shoes though, so I'm not too bummed about it. It has reached the point now though where I need two new pairs of shoes at once. I'm not very happy about that.

This is happening to my left Miura as well. The toe is just splitting right apart from the rand. Very annoying as they don't need a resole yet. I try to baby them but then I end up on somethign hard and make it worse.

Uncle Jam
Aug 20, 2005

Perfect


The gym has been 90F and near 100% humidity the last week and a half, everything is so greasy. I wish I had tubes that went from the chalkbag to straps on my wrists that continually sprayed chalk all over my hands.

I seriously felt like chalking my shoes too, the old holds are getting shined up like brass doorknobs.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


I did my first multi-pitch lead today! So stoked.

My second, however, thought my Chouinard #1 Camalot (a gift from my mentor) was fixed gear that I had clipped and left it behind. :argh:

LarryCsonka
Nov 7, 2006
Oooh, I don't go map-finding-behinding

Uncle Jam posted:

The gym has been 90F and near 100% humidity the last week and a half, everything is so greasy. I wish I had tubes that went from the chalkbag to straps on my wrists that continually sprayed chalk all over my hands.

I seriously felt like chalking my shoes too, the old holds are getting shined up like brass doorknobs.

Walking into my gym feels like walking into a movie theater, it's AC is ice cold. Great on a hot humid day

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Save me jeebus posted:

I did my first multi-pitch lead today! So stoked.

My second, however, thought my Chouinard #1 Camalot (a gift from my mentor) was fixed gear that I had clipped and left it behind. :argh:

Better go back and get it

Meatbag Esq.
May 3, 2006

Hmm which internet meme should go here again?

Rock climbing blindfolded is hard. "Is this my hold?" "No - up and left." "Here?" "Left and down some." "This hold is no good. Where's the next one?" "Up."

Swan Oat
Oct 9, 2012

I was selected for my skill.

What are some good sites to research climbing shoes? I bought a pair of La Sportiva Tarantulace when I started climbing, but a) they need to be resoled and I'd like to keep climbing in the meantime and b) I'd like to get some shoes that are more technical/aggressive. Advice? Price is a secondary issue at most here. Thanks!

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


A store where you can try them on. If there isn't a brick an mortar nearby, most manufactures have decent sites to narrow down choices then order a bunch of sizes and try them. You can make online purchasing work for new shoes but being able to sit in a store with a little wall and go back and forth between shoes for an hour is fantastic especially if you don't mind paying a bit more. A lot of gyms also sell shoes I think, my usual place has a decent selection.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


The only way to do it is to try on a lot of shoes from different brands and see which ones your feet pick. It sounds like you've had your current shoes for a while - remember that everything you try on is going to be uncomfortable, but it shouldn't be painful. A good store rep or experienced climbing buddy will be able to suggest shoes on the right part of the aggressiveness spectrum, but it's really down to what feels best on your feet.

TheMadMilkman
Dec 10, 2007



In my experience, buying shoes goes like this:

1. Try on a dozen different pairs of shoes.
2. Buy another pair of Miuras.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Thinking of going climbing at Gower this weekend if the weather holds up. Any recommendations? There are loads of crags in the area. We're after low-mid grade trad and sport, don't think I'll be taking a pad. Also looking for campsite recs, either official or otherwise. If the weather is bad I think we'll still go and just surf instead.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

I'm on a climbing / hiking holiday in Reunion island at the moment, and it's pretty amazing. The rock is basalt, which i'd never climbed on before, but which is super hard and often sharp. I'm still here but here are a few photos:






The middle two images are from yesterday - It was late in the day and the crag was entirely deserted. I did a long, hard route which used almost all my 60m rope (we tied a knot in the bottom of the rope just in case). I didn't quite have enough quickdraws so made an alpine quickdraw out of a sling and 2 spare carabiners. While I was climbing a heavy mist rolled in out of nowhere and engulfed us. I was preoccupied and didn't notice until I got near the top, and looked down into milky white cloud... My girlfriend lost sight of me entirely. The photos don't really do the mist justice!

The bottom picture, with the waterfall, spot the climber! (Not me, just some random guy on a big multipitch route).

Chris! fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Jul 30, 2015

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


I had my first outdoor sport climbing trip yesterday. We didn't do anything particularly challenging, but I had a great time. Schist is awesome, leading is awesome, getting to where you think the top of a route is, realizing there's another three bolts til the anchor and you only have four draws left is a thrill.

IrvingWashington
Dec 9, 2007


Clapping Larry

Got a bit of bouldering in at Elephant Rocks, MO this weekend (no pics yet) - the kids got their first taste of climbing on non-plastic, which was neat, and almost everyone managed to finish some slabby V0 problems. Then they went straight for a nice overhanging sit-start V4. Nobody believed me when I told them the problem finished on top of the boulder :)

One of my kids found a really interesting problem with a high, static rockover to start it off - it took me a few tries to nail it, and it spat him off each time, but he was pretty adamant about coming back within 2 months to have his revenge.

Advice/Recommendations: I need to pick up a new static rope for top-rope anchors, and a few months ago I had found a decent site with nice discounts, but now I'm ready to buy, I've lost it. Any recommendations?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

I am going climbing in Kalymnos for ~10 days in November. Has anyone been there that can give me some useful insider info?

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004





Got this classic highball to finish weekend after next at Palm Springs tramway. It's actually not that hard for an outdoor v3, and well within my range, but still the height is psyching me out :eyepop:

It's funny how high I already felt at that point in the route, when in reality I'm only 1/3rd of the way! That's the crux though

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/white-flight/107674829

edit: I uploaded this photo to mountain project, now I'm famous!

Nifty fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Aug 6, 2015

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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Nifty posted:



Got this classic highball to finish weekend after next at Palm Springs tramway. It's actually not that hard for an outdoor v3, and well within my range, but still the height is psyching me out :eyepop:

It's funny how high I already felt at that point in the route, when in reality I'm only 1/3rd of the way! That's the crux though

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/white-flight/107674829

edit: I uploaded this photo to mountain project, now I'm famous!

When you heading back out to CO? I'm trying to figure out how to get to doing Turning Point. :( I think I will only be able to do it when people visit. I can't seem to find the right times to actually get out and work on it - it's usually to goddamn hot by the time I can get out to the Satellites.

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