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Uncle Jam
Aug 20, 2005

Perfect


Starting to knock v2 problems off at the gym, feels good man.

Need to get a harness, my endurance is poo poo. The gym rentals are kind of scary and uncomfortable.

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Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

armorer posted:

I am going climbing in Kalymnos for ~10 days in November. Has anyone been there that can give me some useful insider info?

Massouri was a good place to be based when I went there. It is handy for the big cave and the multi-pitch adventures on the island across the bay. Also there are plenty of shops and cheap restaurants.
I imagine a heck of a lot of the island has been developed since I went, but I fondly remember a route called Styx and a crag called Dolphin Bay. I'm told Elefantenhimmel is also worth doing.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Did my first trad climbing and trad lead yesterday....very fun, little scary.

Spent $600 on trad gear today.........:)

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

spwrozek posted:

Spent $600 on trad gear today.........:)

The initial buy-in is the worst. Obviously climb with people who have gear, so you can double up on pieces until you can fill out your rack more. Use your own gear though as much as possible so you get to know it, get that shiny paint off of there!

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


I pulled this guy on a flaring arching finger crack. I knew it wouldn't likely hold a big fall but my next piece, a .2, held like a champ.

I've never seen a bent axle like this before though. Crazy.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


spwrozek posted:

Did my first trad climbing and trad lead yesterday....very fun, little scary.

Spent $600 on trad gear today.........:)

What did you get!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



jackchaos posted:

What did you get!

C4 .5-3, X4 .1-.4, BD Nuts 4-13 plus biners to match. Just need to figure out some more alpine draws and get a nut tool.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Get the Wild Country nut tool with the bungee. It;'s honestly super-handy.

For alpine draws, I'd go mammut or BD slings on a small carabiner that has some mechanism to stop it from catching like the current Oz or DMMs.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


All my alpine are bd slings and neutrinos. Make sure to get a few long ones if you get anything else get maybe a bd 4 and a 5. Those ones you may not use often but got drat so happy you have it when you need it. I have a double rack but only going up to bd 3s. So if I ever get into that size crack I usually just run it out and not think about it till I find a sexy spot for something else. Mainly when I've needed bigger cams it was too build an easier anchor. That being said usually you can find ways around it. Just may not be the prettiest or easiest.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Speleothing posted:

Get the Wild Country nut tool with the bungee. It;'s honestly super-handy.

For alpine draws, I'd go mammut or BD slings on a small carabiner that has some mechanism to stop it from catching like the current Oz or DMMs.

You can make your own bungee for about half the price of the WC bungee premium. I just bought the tool and then used some leftover phone cord I had laying around and a crimp. Works fine.

I even have it attached to a spare set of magnetic leash bits for extra swagger!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



jackchaos posted:

All my alpine are bd slings and neutrinos. Make sure to get a few long ones if you get anything else get maybe a bd 4 and a 5. Those ones you may not use often but got drat so happy you have it when you need it. I have a double rack but only going up to bd 3s. So if I ever get into that size crack I usually just run it out and not think about it till I find a sexy spot for something else. Mainly when I've needed bigger cams it was too build an easier anchor. That being said usually you can find ways around it. Just may not be the prettiest or easiest.

I like the neutrinos, if only they came with key lock. Or any tiny biner did really. So much easier to get off the harness and then off the gear.

I have a ton of slings just need to figure out what exactly I want to do here.

Agree on the bigger gear but the few people I am climbing with have a lot of gear and can usually provide.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

I like the neutrinos, if only they came with key lock. Or any tiny biner did really. So much easier to get off the harness and then off the gear.

I have a ton of slings just need to figure out what exactly I want to do here.

Agree on the bigger gear but the few people I am climbing with have a lot of gear and can usually provide.

Seriously dude. Next time you're over, just copy what I did for my nut tool leash. I can show you pretty easily.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

Seriously dude. Next time you're over, just copy what I did for my nut tool leash. I can show you pretty easily.

Sounds like a plan!

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

C4 .5-3, X4 .1-.4, BD Nuts 4-13 plus biners to match. Just need to figure out some more alpine draws and get a nut tool.



Where's your .75 C4, son? (I use mine a lot down here at the Garden). EDIT: NM - I see it, just didn't recognize because it has a grey 'biner. I can't understand why BD doesn't make a corresponding color. Yes, I'm OCD about my rack.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Actually the biner is green, but it is one hosed up green.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Actually the biner is green, but it is one hosed up green.

So, I'm embarrassed. I realized it IS the green one. And, sure enough, I own one (probably got it in a pack of neutrinos). It lives on my bailout Trango cam. My .75 sports a CAMP 'biner that is very, very green.

Siamang
Nov 15, 2003


What, if any, supplemental training do you guys do? I started bouldering a little over a year ago but had a long background of weightlifting. About six months ago I added in some gymnastic strength training and it's had great carryover to climbing. I do front and back levers, handstand work, and iron cross progressions(getting a full cross is a distant goal). It seems like the straight arm support work is great for strengthening the elbows' connective tissue as long as you build up loads slowly and carefully. Also, I found that doing shoulder dislocates(both unweighted and weighted) has rehabbed my shoulders to the point that they never hurt any more, which had sometimes been a problem with bouldering:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hROTzJ6XBs

I had a lot of nagging shoulder and elbow pains but they're all gone now. I wasn't expecting to be feeling less pain at 42 than I was at 32 and it's great. A short evening stretching routine six days a week has helped too.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Siamang posted:

What, if any, supplemental training do you guys do? I started bouldering a little over a year ago but had a long background of weightlifting. About six months ago I added in some gymnastic strength training and it's had great carryover to climbing. I do front and back levers, handstand work, and iron cross progressions(getting a full cross is a distant goal). It seems like the straight arm support work is great for strengthening the elbows' connective tissue as long as you build up loads slowly and carefully. Also, I found that doing shoulder dislocates(both unweighted and weighted) has rehabbed my shoulders to the point that they never hurt any more, which had sometimes been a problem with bouldering:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hROTzJ6XBs

I had a lot of nagging shoulder and elbow pains but they're all gone now. I wasn't expecting to be feeling less pain at 42 than I was at 32 and it's great. A short evening stretching routine six days a week has helped too.

I crush pints at the local tap rooms. I find it helps on a lot of levels, including the ever-present mental game.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



I've been doing the shoulder exercises from this article recently, plus some stuff for my elbows and wrists, as my body just doesn't like to play nice with hard training. Dedicating at least one session a week to just this antagonist/stability work. Seems to be going alright.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Siamang posted:

What, if any, supplemental training do you guys do?

I work in [and bicycle to] a kitchen. I can clean and jerk a case of potatoes quicker than all the boys at the crag.

I also do pushups and hammy curls to work antagonists

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Siamang posted:

What, if any, supplemental training do you guys do? I started bouldering a little over a year ago but had a long background of weightlifting. About six months ago I added in some gymnastic strength training and it's had great carryover to climbing. I do front and back levers, handstand work, and iron cross progressions(getting a full cross is a distant goal). It seems like the straight arm support work is great for strengthening the elbows' connective tissue as long as you build up loads slowly and carefully. Also, I found that doing shoulder dislocates(both unweighted and weighted) has rehabbed my shoulders to the point that they never hurt any more, which had sometimes been a problem with bouldering:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hROTzJ6XBs

I had a lot of nagging shoulder and elbow pains but they're all gone now. I wasn't expecting to be feeling less pain at 42 than I was at 32 and it's great. A short evening stretching routine six days a week has helped too.

A whole lot of shoulder rehab type stuff, pull up variations, antagonist groups, and some abs (but probably not enough).

From the sounds of it, the type of strength you have is what many higher level climbers work towards. Front levers are no joke. Keep at the climbing and you should crush pretty hard.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



loving hell, I just watched that video. Crazy ROM in those shoulders.

Siamang
Nov 15, 2003


Still B.A.E posted:

loving hell, I just watched that video. Crazy ROM in those shoulders.

When I first started these I had to do them unweighted and have my hands so far apart that the stick would brush the top of my head. One thing I've experienced with dislocates is that you have to take the progress really slow...they're a great rehab/prehab exercise but if you increase weight or decrease width too soon it can cause impingement issues. I was surprised at how completely immobile my shoulders were when I started trying these and the wall extension stretch.

compton ass terry
Nov 20, 2006

Do you know where I'm from?

I started climbing in March and in my experience it's pretty hard to climb at a high level and lift seriously. While climbing it's better to be as light as possible, whereas lifting you're constantly trying to put on weight(with some exceptions obviously).

If you're going to speed climb or Boulder, you can still dead lift / squat /bench as strength takes priority over endurance. Anything else I would probably just stick to deadlifts / pull-ups / grip

For your first year or so, if you climb 4+ days a week you will get stronger and will not need to add in outside workouts. My weakest point right now is grip strength, easier way to get it better is to lose more weight and continue to climb hard.

compton ass terry fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Aug 22, 2015

Siamang
Nov 15, 2003


I dunno...climbing hard 4+ days a week as a beginner sounds like a lot of wear on the joints and is pretty much how I got elbow tendonitis. I had better luck with fewer days but more activities, although my goals across all of them weren't in opposition (no interest in either gaining or losing weight, lifting was deadlift/pullup/oly centric, gymnastic stuff had direct transfer to climbing). I think it's possible to achieve a balance as long as you have an overall fitness picture that meshes together well. Doing something like a Smolov squat routine + bouldering would be ridiculous.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

You should do some lifting, yes. But not truly serious lifting.

Siamang
Nov 15, 2003


compton rear end terry posted:

My weakest point right now is grip strength

One of the most humbling things I discovered when I started is how little transfer there is between types of grip strength. I had decent closed-hand 'crush' ability but could barely hold onto a pinch or sloper. Pinch and crimp strength has improved a ton but I still don't spend as much time as I should training slopers.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Siamang posted:

I dunno...climbing hard 4+ days a week as a beginner sounds like a lot of wear on the joints and is pretty much how I got elbow tendonitis.

Yes. So many people get stoked on climbing right away and destroy their fingers, tendons, and elbows by going as hard as they can right out of the gate. We're just not built to do that. Hell, I'm pretty sure we're not built to do this at all.

Did some bouldering up at Guanella Pass today. We got rained out, but we managed to get on some fun stuff.





Swan Oat
Oct 9, 2012

I was selected for my skill.

I'm visiting a friend in Denver next weekend and doing my first ever outdoor climbing. Very excited :)

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Siamang posted:

One of the most humbling things I discovered when I started is how little transfer there is between types of grip strength. I had decent closed-hand 'crush' ability but could barely hold onto a pinch or sloper. Pinch and crimp strength has improved a ton but I still don't spend as much time as I should training slopers.

Slopers are honestly more technique than strength.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Speleothing posted:

Slopers are honestly more technique than strength.

Yes this but also compression is a big part most people don't think about for slopers

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Bud Manstrong posted:

Yes. So many people get stoked on climbing right away and destroy their fingers, tendons, and elbows by going as hard as they can right out of the gate. We're just not built to do that. Hell, I'm pretty sure we're not built to do this at all.

Did some bouldering up at Guanella Pass today. We got rained out, but we managed to get on some fun stuff.







Dude, looks like fun.... We climbed in CCC this afternoon.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


My pythons are worn out so I picked up some Instinct VS's on sale. I went a half size larger than the smallest ones I could cram on. The fit is almost roomy, and I wore them pretty comfortably for two hours straight the first time out. I'm sure the condition of my old shoes is part of this, but they were immediately more precise than the old shoes, and the rubber is fantastic as well. I thought I'd need more time to get used to the thicker toe, but I was really surprised with the sensitivity.

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

Dutymode posted:

My pythons are worn out so I picked up some Instinct VS's on sale. I went a half size larger than the smallest ones I could cram on. The fit is almost roomy, and I wore them pretty comfortably for two hours straight the first time out. I'm sure the condition of my old shoes is part of this, but they were immediately more precise than the old shoes, and the rubber is fantastic as well. I thought I'd need more time to get used to the thicker toe, but I was really surprised with the sensitivity.

Instinct VS's are amazing, I got a pair on sale recently and they've broken in quickly and smeared much better than expected on Carderock's slabby rock. They're aces for edging too and are great for wider ducky morton's toe-having people like myself.

Going to Cooper Rock for some volunteer work and hopefully some bouldering this weekend, I'm so excited! :3:

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Any of the Boulder/Denver climbing goons interested in a run out to satellites Saturday morning?

I'm hoping to throw myself at Turning Point some more.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

Any of the Boulder/Denver climbing goons interested in a run out to satellites Saturday morning?

I'm hoping to throw myself at Turning Point some more.

I will be there! OG is going down. Might bring a couple people. You still have my pad right?

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

I will be there! OG is going down. Might bring a couple people. You still have my pad right?

Yup. I have plenty more!

borapt
Jul 14, 2008


Does anyone want to take some size 44.5 Miura velcros off my hands? I bought one half size too high...Climbed in them once, now they're just sitting here.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Siamang posted:

What, if any, supplemental training do you guys do?

Yoga. All climbers should do yoga. Your body weighs plenty without holding barbells, etc. And it helps with range of motion and all other types of problematic joint or muscle problems. Just make sure your teacher is educated on the subject and doesn't let you push too hard. Does your gym have a yoga thing? Most do, or would be inclined to do so if enough interest existed.

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Siamang
Nov 15, 2003


French Canadian posted:

Yoga. All climbers should do yoga. Your body weighs plenty without holding barbells, etc. And it helps with range of motion and all other types of problematic joint or muscle problems. Just make sure your teacher is educated on the subject and doesn't let you push too hard. Does your gym have a yoga thing? Most do, or would be inclined to do so if enough interest existed.

Yeah, the six day a week stretching regimen I mentioned is a 30 minute ashtanga yoga routine. It helps so much with recovery.

Never going to quit barbell exercises, been lifting for more than 25 years now and am still benefitting from and enjoying it.

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