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crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Climbing owns. Lifting owns. Yoga owns. But I don't have infinite time so the yoga takes a big backseat.

Just sent my first twelve that wasn't soft as hell today. There's still time left, but if the season ended tomorrow I could go back to plastic happy. If you're climbing in the bow valley, carrot creek is so worthwhile.

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Bouldering in boulder with Gamera009.

I was just randomly spotting this 8 year old and he fell on the top out of a V0. I thought he hit the tree but he didn't. I got him back on the mat so good job me I suppose. I have a video of it but it is messed up. I will try to reload it.

Here is me on A7-V1 (look at that sweet leg cross over).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elMxeGiS3Og

Here is me on the whole reason I went up here on OG a fun V4. My girl didn't video me the first time and made me re-send it. It is a super good one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBWElHdRuVY

Also her videos are some weird sped up stills.

Fun times!

spwrozek fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Aug 31, 2015

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



I remember neither us sent either of those last time.. Nice!

jiggerypokery
Feb 1, 2012

...But I could hardly wait six months with a red hot jape like that under me belt.

Anyone been to Croatia late autumn? Wondering about places to go, conditions etc. Both sport and DWS

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


It was a three day weekend in the UK and I spent it climbing in Snowdonia. The weather forecast was terrible and we went expecting to spend the whole time mountain biking, but instead it turned out to be glorious. I went to Tremadog for the first time - apart from the hour or so spent whacking through the jungle trying to find the start of routes it was awesome, such a dramatic venue with really great climbs. I also visited the RAC boulders today for a bit of a play around and got thoroughly spanked because I am weak and bad at footwork. Over the weekend we spotted oldschool climbing legends Joe Brown and Eric Jones, and celebrity climbing instructor Libby Peter. North Wales is so good and I'm psyched for trad climbing again.

I'd post photos but I took them all with a film camera and haven't developed the roll yet.

F0rcefedReality
Oct 23, 2014


I'm an intermediate climber who is mostly lifts weights who is interested in getting better specifically at bouldering (there's a bouldering gym next to my house). I've starting looking for ways to get better at climbing in the time I'm not actually at the climbing gym and in my backyard, where I have a pullup bar and I've come upon thick bar training using my new fat gripz. I'm really noticing my grip being worked really hard as well as activating my forearms a lot more than regular pullups. How much transfer am I going to get with doing thick bar pullups?

What are some more things I can do to become a better climber outside of the wall? I have access to pullup/dip station, barbell+plates, dumbbells, and a flat to incline adjustable bench.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


In order of descending effectiveness:
Sleep a lot
Rest
Eat clean
Core strength
Pullups
Anything else

Really your best improvements as a new boulderer are going to come from using your climbing time intelligently. Focus on moving under control, clean feet, all the basic stuff. Then use your time outside the gym to support recovery so you can spend more time on real rocks or in the gym.

Electoral Surgery fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Sep 1, 2015

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


I might throw in antagonist exercises because I have a tendency to end up going to the gym too frequently and injuring my elbows. They won't directly help you be a better climber, but they'll prevent you from having to take time off to recover.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


F0rcefedReality, your experience isn't clear from the post but if you've been climbing regularly for a few years already you could perhaps look into very gentle finger boarding once a week or so. It offers huge scope for improvement, and relatively quickly, but your chances of injury are pretty good if you overdo it so read up first and take things very slow.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



F0rcefedReality posted:

I'm an intermediate climber who is mostly lifts weights who is interested in getting better specifically at bouldering (there's a bouldering gym next to my house). I've starting looking for ways to get better at climbing in the time I'm not actually at the climbing gym and in my backyard, where I have a pullup bar and I've come upon thick bar training using my new fat gripz. I'm really noticing my grip being worked really hard as well as activating my forearms a lot more than regular pullups. How much transfer am I going to get with doing thick bar pullups?

What are some more things I can do to become a better climber outside of the wall? I have access to pullup/dip station, barbell+plates, dumbbells, and a flat to incline adjustable bench.

If there's a bouldering gym next to your house, why are you doing pullups in your back yard to try to get better at climbing? Cost of gym entrance?

F0rcefedReality
Oct 23, 2014


Still B.A.E posted:

If there's a bouldering gym next to your house, why are you doing pullups in your back yard to try to get better at climbing? Cost of gym entrance?

Precisely this. Usually I buy a membership for 3 months at a time and go several times a week, then take time away because of the cost. My home gym is pretty much everything I could need for any traditional strength training + pullups/dips. With the addition of the fat gripz I think I'm getting good grip/forearm strength crossover.

big scary monsters posted:

F0rcefedReality, your experience isn't clear from the post but if you've been climbing regularly for a few years already you could perhaps look into very gentle finger boarding once a week or so. It offers huge scope for improvement, and relatively quickly, but your chances of injury are pretty good if you overdo it so read up first and take things very slow.

I really should get one of these. Actually I think the thick bar training is somewhat preparation for finger boarding. I know I'm not quite ready for some of those crazy holds yet but I've just started really focusing on my grip strength.

jiggerypokery
Feb 1, 2012

...But I could hardly wait six months with a red hot jape like that under me belt.

F0rcefedReality posted:

I really should get one of these. Actually I think the thick bar training is somewhat preparation for finger boarding. I know I'm not quite ready for some of those crazy holds yet but I've just started really focusing on my grip strength.

Starting finger boarding is fine even early on as long as you remember what it is for. You need to take it really easy (way easier than you think!) and don't start doing pull ups on it or anything. Your biceps and flexors respond to training far better than their respective tendons (and crucially pulley ligaments!) do which is why it is so common for people to get finger injuries or tennis elbow. Weight training exacerbates this as while you train your larger muscles are capable of exerting increasing amounts force far in excess what the weaker parts of the chain can cope with. Frustratingly these parts also take a poo poo load longer to recover.

By just hanging you limit the acceleration part of the force equation and reduce the risk of damaging something important. You don't even need to use bad holds for both hands. Start with one hand on a jug, the other on the grip type you are working on and slowly transfer your weight between them. That kind of thing. Pullups have very little to do with climbing capability anyway. Finger and core strength (if you have good technique) are much more important.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



Dmitry Sharafutdinov trained for (and won) the world championships by doing 20,000 pullups a month on a bar and fingerboard, you should totally do that.

(Don't do that, unless you have the elbows of a god)

You should get a fingerboard though, it will at least keep you ticking over when you can't climb, and will help you improve if you use it right.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Yeah I don't think the thick bar pullups will really translate much to climbing grip strength. Maybe it'll improve your pinch grip marginally. I use Captain of Crush hand grippers for fun but having a strong crushing grip is minimally (if at all) helpful with crimps, I probably get more benefit from the tougher skin on my palms it produces. All the climbing training books I've read emphasise specificity of training, which is why people say that the best training for climbing is climbing. Finger boards aren't perfect, but they are pretty drat good because you can train holding slopers and crimps and jugs and pockets in the same way that you actually use them when climbing.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


The key to effective hangboarding is a counterweight pulley system. It allows to hang with less than bodyweight, giving you more control over the loads your fingers actually face. For a beginner, you'll want to train much less than bodyweight for most holds, and there's really no consistent way to do this without a pulley setup. It's the best way to balance gains with injury prevention.

Do some googling to read more about pulley set ups, it's pretty commonplace in most training regimens nowadays. Lots of good info on the Anderson bros site, the rock climbers training manual, which is named after their comprehensive training book.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Pretty interesting idea right here.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/climbdesign/littlehammer

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


AUD $90 retail? :stonklol:

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


I wanted to say that looks stupid and unnecessary and useless, but actually it looks really handy and unnecessary and probably in ten years we'll all be carrying them and getting as angry when our second drops our nut key as when they drop a BD Camalot or the beloved #3 nut that held your first ever lead fall.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I have an irritating hand injury that I can't seem to find similar examples of. I have a bruise on my palm, directly under the knuckle of my pinky. I've had it for about a month, and it will not heal. This has included at least a couple week long breaks from climbing. I don't think it's tendon related- squeezing or hanging with weight on my pinky has no pain at all, although if I stretch my pinky back the flexor tendon is noticeably visible/tight compared to my other hand.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Dutymode posted:

I have an irritating hand injury that I can't seem to find similar examples of. I have a bruise on my palm, directly under the knuckle of my pinky. I've had it for about a month, and it will not heal. This has included at least a couple week long breaks from climbing. I don't think it's tendon related- squeezing or hanging with weight on my pinky has no pain at all, although if I stretch my pinky back the flexor tendon is noticeably visible/tight compared to my other hand.

Does the finger "stick" closed at all? Tenderness in that specific location is a symptom of trigger finger.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



armorer posted:

Does the finger "stick" closed at all? Tenderness in that specific location is a symptom of trigger finger.

Or a ruptured bursae - the bruising would be indicative of the burst sac and localized pooling of blood.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


It don't think it sticks, at least not anymore than the other hand. Gamera maybe you're right, I still would have thought it would have healed by now. I guess I haven't been nice enough to it.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Dutymode posted:

It don't think it sticks, at least not anymore than the other hand. Gamera maybe you're right, I still would have thought it would have healed by now. I guess I haven't been nice enough to it.

Burst bursae is def a no-go for climbing. There's a much higher risk for grinding the cartilage.

Last time it happened to me, it was a month or two before I felt good enough to go at 80% of what I was pulling on. Realistically, you should be taking time off as if it were a really bad sprain.

Recycle Bin
Feb 7, 2001

I'd rather be a pig than a fascist

Any climbers in the Los Angeles area? Getting tired of going climbing all by my lonesome.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Off to independence pass again this weekend. I have been pushing on 12's in the gym and may try to get on one in the wild if I see something that looks good. Might be better to project a front range route though.

I also need to get out on the trad rack more. So much to learn there.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Off to independence pass again this weekend. I have been pushing on 12's in the gym and may try to get on one in the wild if I see something that looks good. Might be better to project a front range route though.

I also need to get out on the trad rack more. So much to learn there.

You're probably ready. My gym's 12's kick my rear end but I've ticked a few outdoors because they tend to be much less sustained.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I am pretty sure I can make it up it but it probably will not be clean. 11c is as hard as I can go clean so far.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Recycle Bin posted:

Any climbers in the Los Angeles area? Getting tired of going climbing all by my lonesome.

Heading to Black Mountain with some friends probably weekend of 9/19 if you like climbing in the woods!

Nifty fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Sep 15, 2015

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Man, apparently a youngish (21) climber in Magdeburg (where my brother lives) died in a climbing accident this past week. Something about the knot was wrong, it came undone, and he fell 10 meters and died right away.

Partner checks, y'all. Stay safe.

jiggerypokery
Feb 1, 2012

...But I could hardly wait six months with a red hot jape like that under me belt.

Right then thread I need core strength. Pretty sure that my ability to take weight off my arms on steeper terrain is my main weakness at the moment. Recommend me a workout or two (I boulder ~V8-9).

Siamang
Nov 15, 2003


I'm not climbing at your level yet but I experienced a lot of good core strength improvements on overhung problems by training front levers, they had great carryover. Beast Skills has some good progressions:

http://www.beastskills.com/front-lever/

As far as integrating it into workouts, I started working on these by doing them three times per week on weightlifting days. I was able to start with the single leg front lever, worked up to a few sets of 10 seconds per leg holds, then advanced to the straddle front lever and worked on increasing the amount of time I could hold those. They're a hell of a lot easier with short legs + good hip flexibility so YMMV. When I was up to about a 20 second straddle I tried the full lever and got it for a few seconds, then have been working on incrementally improving the form (keeping the hips from sinking is essential) and duration of those since then. It takes a lot of time and patience but every time I climb a roof or overhung problem I can feel how the work has benefitted me.

Siamang fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Sep 11, 2015

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

DMM have issued a product recall on some of their carabiners.

http://dmmclimbing.com/documents/dmm-product-safety-warning-11-09-2015.pdf

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Bishop the weekend of Oct 2nd! Going to be costumed shenanigans at some point any are welcome to join in the fun!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Well it was a pretty good trip to Indy Pass. Mostly climbed easy stuff due to the crew I was with (no one else can lead over 5.7). I still had fun but didn't get on a 12.

I climbed a lot of easy stuff including cleaning out this wall: [url=http://www.mountainproject.com/v/powerline/105974268]Powerline Crag[\url]

I really liked "Thread it up" there as I was about to place a bunch of gear to skip some bolts.

Everyone wanted to see me have a little more fun (but really climbing is always fun) so we went over to [url=http://www.mountainproject.com/v/gregs-cliff/105746391]Greg's Cliff[\url].

I setup Truth Decay for a top rope for people, really fun 5.9. Then I went and poo poo the bed on Baba Fats 5.11a. I don't think I was in the right head space for the climb honestly. It was a lot of sloppers, deceptively over hung, and after the second bolt I felt like I was lunging/dyno-ing for every hold. I fell twice after the 3rd bolt and wasn't sure I could finish it and lowered off. I was really frustrated with myself to be honest. I felt like I should be able to climb the route. I grabbed a bail biner and went back up.my girlfriend hugged me and said "When you get up and and want to go for it just do it". So I headed back up and pushed through it. I had to take at the 5th bolt. After clipping the last bolt before the anchor it was a you have got to be kidding me dyno, I mean I had a good undercling on terrible slopping feet. I worked as far left as possible and jumped, stuck it... hand traversed back to the right and topped out. It was fun, frustrating, and gratifying to finish.

The last day we headed to the [url=http://www.mountainproject.com/v/butt-wall/106014095]Butt Wall[\url] Setup a 8 and 9 as top ropes for the group and headed over to a spicy 5.6 trad route. I just did the first pitch and stopped at the bolted anchor. There was not what I would call the best placements until I was able to put a nice #3 C4 in about half way up. I also had to figure out how to get around this stupid little tree which I had to go around and then place a unseen #.75 C4 (actually was pretty good once I could look at it) and then down climb and try to flip the rope over this dumb tree. Finally got the rope around it and finished up the climb with some not great placements but what can you do...

All in all pretty good time.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Last week we attempted to climb the Palisade Traverse, which is 5 14'er peaks in one day. We got 3 and it was insanely hard. I don't know how people do all 5 car to car.


Starlight Peak with Mount Sill on the left


Trying to negotiate back to the ridge


More Starlight


Other Climbs:

Matthes Crest



Tuolomne climbs

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



That looks pretty gnarly man, nice job.

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009


Grimey Drawer

Nice to see that there's a climbing thread here.

I just started climbing about 2 months ago. I'm currently in the v2/3 and 5.9 range. My goal is to get good and comfortable and begin climbing outside next summer. Obviously my technique blows, especially on overhanging walls.

Anyway, just saying hi. Glad to have another climbing community to lurk besides r/climbing and r/bouldering.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Fall is the best time of the year to be outside - why put it off for a year? The climbers at your gym can probably point you towards local cliffs and boulders with climbs in your difficulty range.

There is no reason to 'train up' in the gym to get ready for climbing outside, aside from belay competence.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Awkward Davies posted:

Nice to see that there's a climbing thread here.

I just started climbing about 2 months ago. I'm currently in the v2/3 and 5.9 range. My goal is to get good and comfortable and begin climbing outside next summer. Obviously my technique blows, especially on overhanging walls.

Anyway, just saying hi. Glad to have another climbing community to lurk besides r/climbing and r/bouldering.

Agree that you should just get outside now. Where are you located?

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Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009


Grimey Drawer

turevidar posted:

Fall is the best time of the year to be outside - why put it off for a year? The climbers at your gym can probably point you towards local cliffs and boulders with climbs in your difficulty range.

There is no reason to 'train up' in the gym to get ready for climbing outside, aside from belay competence.


spwrozek posted:

Agree that you should just get outside now. Where are you located?

I guess I kinda figured that the outdoor season is closing so I should just climb inside. We (I started doing this with a friend) also don't have any crash pads or any gear beyond shoes/harnesses/chalk.

I'm located in NYC, and don't own a car, which makes heading outdoors tricky.

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