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Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

PRADA SLUT posted:

I actually have one of those, like a neoprene sleeve. I wasn't sure if it was a bad idea to climb with (if it got snagged or something), but I presume I could keep it up underneath my top if I had to.

Not any more likely to get snagged than any piece of gear you're carrying. Less likely, really.

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canis minor
May 4, 2011



YourCreation posted:

These just hit the climbing scene in the UK and they have done a marvelous job of de-stinking my shoes.

http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/boot-bananas-p-1654.html

Ordered - thank you very much!

PRADA SLUT posted:

Is there such a thing as like a tiny little pouch that hooks to your harness (or somewhere) that you could put things like your phone or credit cards in? Where I climb there's no safe place to put my belongings, and my chalk bag will hold like a single small item like a wedding ring but nothing else really. Just get pants with cargo pockets?

What about a sachet, if you need something more:



You can strap it around your back or waist.

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

Here's some pics from an ice climbing outing this weekend. The guys that run the ice farming at our local park buried ropelights in one of the flows, and haul a car battery out now and then to light them up. Really cool experience, and no headlamp needed!





This one is lit by the bonfire as well

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

PRADA SLUT posted:

Is there such a thing as like a tiny little pouch that hooks to your harness (or somewhere) that you could put things like your phone or credit cards in? Where I climb there's no safe place to put my belongings, and my chalk bag will hold like a single small item like a wedding ring but nothing else really. Just get pants with cargo pockets?

theclymb.com has a lowepro sale going on right now, and there are a few small bags that would be well suited to clip to a hardness for about $5 each. The hipshot 20 looks like a pretty good candidate.

who cares
Jul 25, 2006

Doomsday Machine

My friend took me to her bouldering gym on Friday when they were doing free admission for first-timers. I loved it so I took a one-on-one intro class today and I FEEL SO GOOD. The combination of physical and intellectual challenge really resonates with me. There really isn't a point to this post other than saying that I get it.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

who cares posted:

My friend took me to her bouldering gym on Friday when they were doing free admission for first-timers. I loved it so I took a one-on-one intro class today and I FEEL SO GOOD. The combination of physical and intellectual challenge really resonates with me. There really isn't a point to this post other than saying that I get it.

My gym does free admission on your first visit too, if you go with a member. That's how they get you.... the first hit is always free.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



who cares posted:

My friend took me to her bouldering gym on Friday when they were doing free admission for first-timers. I loved it so I took a one-on-one intro class today and I FEEL SO GOOD. The combination of physical and intellectual challenge really resonates with me. There really isn't a point to this post other than saying that I get it.

Good. Get it till your fingers bleed.

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001



who cares posted:

My friend took me to her bouldering gym on Friday when they were doing free admission for first-timers. I loved it so I took a one-on-one intro class today and I FEEL SO GOOD. The combination of physical and intellectual challenge really resonates with me. There really isn't a point to this post other than saying that I get it.

It's so good to hear that you " get it". That's something that the lot of us who have been climbing for years now knew from day one. I like to tell my students that some will get the "itch". You HAVE to finish that one problem you tried. You'll go over the moves in your head time and again. You'll know each rock in a problem and be able to visualize exactly which hand goes where and which foot steps in which direction for every move.

Keep it up. Just wait 2 weeks until you REALLY "get it". It becomes so much more rewarding. Let us know if you have any questions. Remember to heel hook EVERYTHING.

pokchu
Aug 22, 2007
D:

Thread needs more pictures.

My favorite slab problem ever, even at v3: The Rib @ LRC

Petey
Nov 25, 2005

For who knows what is good for a person in life, during the few and meaningless days they pass through like a shadow? Who can tell them what will happen under the sun after they are gone?

Cybor Tap posted:

It's so good to hear that you " get it". That's something that the lot of us who have been climbing for years now knew from day one. I like to tell my students that some will get the "itch". You HAVE to finish that one problem you tried. You'll go over the moves in your head time and again. You'll know each rock in a problem and be able to visualize exactly which hand goes where and which foot steps in which direction for every move.

As someone who's been climbing off and on but is back "on" at the moment this is the thing that is both the most difficult and most rewarding thing. I have pretty good upper body strength so whenever I start climbing my instinct is to just do the biggest juggiest campusiest moves on any given wall. Then, as you move onto actually challenging routes that push you out of your comfort zone, you realize it's really a puzzle, and you have to know every move, and so them slowly, and do them exactly right.

Normally I hate puzzles. Bouldering is about the only domain in which that is not true.

Ingenium
Jan 12, 2008

THIS WAS SURELY THE WORK OF A MASTER CRIMINAL.


So what are some good things to watch for to prevent injuries? My friend stressed to me the importance of paying attention to any elbow pain and to stop climbing if it starts hurting. I ask this because I have been feeling things like aching wrists the night after climbing, but I am not sure if that is a large issue.

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


Ingenium posted:

So what are some good things to watch for to prevent injuries? My friend stressed to me the importance of paying attention to any elbow pain and to stop climbing if it starts hurting. I ask this because I have been feeling things like aching wrists the night after climbing, but I am not sure if that is a large issue.

I've found the easiest way to prevent injury is a decent warmup, and by decent I mean 30-45 minutes.

Pain after any sort of exercise is normal, what you need to look out for is the type of pain, a dull throbbing pain most of the time is nothing to be worried about and is part and parcel. Sharp spiking pain or recurring long term pain is injury, the night after is fine, if they hurt for a week it's probably something else.

But as with anything if you're not sure just go see a doctor.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Ingenium posted:

So what are some good things to watch for to prevent injuries? My friend stressed to me the importance of paying attention to any elbow pain and to stop climbing if it starts hurting. I ask this because I have been feeling things like aching wrists the night after climbing, but I am not sure if that is a large issue.

As a general rule you should learn to differentiate tendon pain from muscle pain. If you have an ache / twinge / whatever and it is in an area generally devoid of muscles (elbow, wrist, finger joint) then you should pay attention to it. Don't just pop some Aleve and climb on it anyway, it will only get worse. That said you don't necessarily have to stop climbing if you develop a pain like that. A lot of the time you can just climb different routes for a while until it fades. If you are climbing a lot of crimps and develop a nagging pain in one of your digits, go climb overhung stuff for a week of two instead. That type of variation should give it time to sort itself out.

Ingenium
Jan 12, 2008

THIS WAS SURELY THE WORK OF A MASTER CRIMINAL.


Stangg posted:

I've found the easiest way to prevent injury is a decent warmup, and by decent I mean 30-45 minutes.

What do you tend to do with your warmup? Do you just do easier routes?

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009



Shoes!
I couldn't find any Katanas in my size near where I live. Someone at the local outdoors shop said that the Miura is a quite similar shoe and maybe I should just get that one instead. Is this generally true?

I bought some Katanas near new river gorge, liked them, and I lost them after only 3 or 4 uses :negative: so I need to buy a replacement.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Miuras are more aggressive. I have a pair and I really like them, and everyone else I know that has a pair feels the same way about them. If you know your size though you should be able to pick up climbing shoes online easily enough. Zappos typically has a ton of them and has free two way shipping so you can send them back for free if they are the wrong size.

ohwandernearer
Jul 14, 2009


alnilam posted:

Shoes!
I couldn't find any Katanas in my size near where I live. Someone at the local outdoors shop said that the Miura is a quite similar shoe and maybe I should just get that one instead. Is this generally true?

I bought some Katanas near new river gorge, liked them, and I lost them after only 3 or 4 uses :negative: so I need to buy a replacement.

Miura's are a more sensitive shoe with a theoretically greater downturn.

Because they are softer, they tend to lose their downturn pretty quickly.

They fit similarly and suffice for similar climbing. I find the katana's padded tongue to make them a better all-day shoe.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


For warm ups I stretch some and then climb easy routes. Do some easy dynamic moment and also do some sloth climb (nice and slow static is win).

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


Ingenium posted:

What do you tend to do with your warmup? Do you just do easier routes?

I start with 5 minutes of leg stretching, especially hams. Then lots of various hangs on different types of holds in the fingerboard area (nothing too hard, slopers, pinches etc).

If I'm in the climbing centre with the big sloper campus rungs I'll do some dynamic stuff on that, otherwise super slow pull ups followed by some faster ones.

Finish off with some easy routes with quiet feet.

After I started doing this I have never since had a problem with joint pain in my elbows/wrists (I used to get elbow pain all the time).

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

Went to Red River Gorge in Kentucky last weekend for a solid two days of sport climbing. Weather was perfect (mid 40s to low 50s) and mostly sunny. By chance it also happened to be the first weekend that Miguel's was open. That pizza always tastes so good after a day of climbing.

This trip it was me and my usual climbing partner. Leading at the gym we go to in Chicago is difficult because they restrict it to certain times so we spent this trip getting comfortable leading again. Since I don't get to lead too often I have some mental hurdles to get over.

It wasn't too busy so we ended up climbing every route twice. The second time was always much smoother and we were able to move with more confidence. This went a long way towards both of us getting comfortable leading again.

This trip also involved making our own stick clip during the trip down. Bought a clamp, duct tape, some bolts, and punched angles to build an extendable stick clip. Worked extremely well.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Loved climbing at the red. It is definitely stick clip central though...

Where did you climb at down there and what routes?

YourCreation
Jan 4, 2004

A little creative surgery helps turn a few sick pets into a new and improved friend!


Stangg posted:

I start with 5 minutes of leg stretching, especially hams. Then lots of various hangs on different types of holds in the fingerboard area (nothing too hard, slopers, pinches etc).

Isn't the currently accepted warm-up to do exercise first (i.e. climb a few easy routes) and then stretch afterward? It sounds like hanging off of a fingerboard without warming up your arms is a great way to get an injury.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

The most common (roped) warmup at my gym is for people to start 2 or 3 grades below their "project" climb, and climb one route per grade until they get up to it. The bouldering crowd tends to warm up by climbing (and often downclimbing) 3 or 4 simple problems. You can certainly take more time warming up than this, and some of the regular climbers do, but this is the most common thing I see.

TrinityOfDeath
Mar 18, 2009


armorer posted:

The most common (roped) warmup at my gym is for people to start 2 or 3 grades below their "project" climb, and climb one route per grade until they get up to it. The bouldering crowd tends to warm up by climbing (and often downclimbing) 3 or 4 simple problems. You can certainly take more time warming up than this, and some of the regular climbers do, but this is the most common thing I see.

This method has worked really well for me when top roping. Lets say my project is a 5.12a. First I will jump on a 5.7 to get my fingers and tendons warmed up. Then a 5.9, then a 10a or 11a. I want to get warmed up, but not waste all my energy getting there, so I keep the letter grade low, and climb my project for my 4th climb. If I am really tight I might stretch, but that usually means I have been neglecting flexibility and mobility work outside the gym.

Your results may vary, you have to find what works best for you. Everyone has a different opinion, and in the end you just need to climb hard without injury.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

spwrozek posted:

Loved climbing at the red. It is definitely stick clip central though...

Where did you climb at down there and what routes?

This trip we climbed entirely in Muir Valley. Climbed at Practice Wall the first day and Bruise Brothers the second. Basically climbed every 5.7-5.9 at both multiple times. Tried out a pretty fun 5.10b at Practice Wall but by the time I figured out how to get past the part I was having difficulties with it was too late, I was shot.

Felt great to be outside again. I think it has been 8 or so months since I last got out. Need to work on leading more and being less of a pussy and close the gap between what I climb on top and what I lead.

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001



Niyqor posted:

This trip we climbed entirely in Muir Valley. Climbed at Practice Wall the first day and Bruise Brothers the second. Basically climbed every 5.7-5.9 at both multiple times. Tried out a pretty fun 5.10b at Practice Wall but by the time I figured out how to get past the part I was having difficulties with it was too late, I was shot.

Felt great to be outside again. I think it has been 8 or so months since I last got out. Need to work on leading more and being less of a pussy and close the gap between what I climb on top and what I lead.

Wah!! I didn't know they were open so early. I'm sort of planning a trip down there. I went last year with my girlfriend and a buddy. We climbed Muir, PMRP, and military wall.

Best climbing I've ever done.

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


Are there any bags made for holding shoes and harnesses and poo poo, or do people just throw them in any bag?

I ask because I like to keep bags with different things together, like one for hiking, paintball, biking, business meeting, etc.

Grisly Grotto
Jun 17, 2003

Are sure you should fight tonight? You don't look well.


PRADA SLUT posted:

Are there any bags made for holding shoes and harnesses and poo poo, or do people just throw them in any bag?

I ask because I like to keep bags with different things together, like one for hiking, paintball, biking, business meeting, etc.

I just use a little drawstring nylon bag, works well enough. A rubber band around the bundled up harness should keep it from getting tangled.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

PRADA SLUT posted:

Are there any bags made for holding shoes and harnesses and poo poo, or do people just throw them in any bag?

I ask because I like to keep bags with different things together, like one for hiking, paintball, biking, business meeting, etc.

I find that keeping your shoes out of a bag helps them dry faster and be less stinky. So I throw all of my crap in a small duffel bag, and carabiner my shoes to one of the handles. Be sure to use a locking carabiner for that though and lock it. Losing a shoe makes you feel like an idiot.

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001



http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150258993599062&set=a.296763149061.194578.283565844061&type=1&theater

Organic Retro Pack.

Boss.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Lots of people use the bag their harness came in for storing it. Otherwise, anything mesh will be fine.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:



Wooo a climbing thread! Just started climbing...well...yesterday, after me and my roommate decided it seemed like a fun workout as well as good mental stimulation through problem solving.

I did not expect to have that much fun! We did a 3 hour class here in Toronto, an hour of belay instruction and then climbing for two hours. Pretty excited to keep going a few times a week. People on here are talking about V2-5, and I noticed some 5.whatever number discussion. The walls at this gym were all 5.6-5.10+ (maybe 5.11 or 12?) and I am wondering what the V rating is. Is it just a different system or for some other form of climbing? We only did top rope climbing but I really look forward to bouldering and eventually lead climbing. So crazy watching people lead climbing (I think it's sport, since the bolts were already in the wall?) across the ceiling :O

TL;DR I am really excited about climbing

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR


Yay new climber!

5.0 to 5.15 is a grading scale that refers to the climb as you've already figured out; the 5 refers to the steepness (a 5 is vertical or mostly vertical). A 1 would be walking on flat ground, 3 would be a steep hill. 5 is where actual climbing begins where you need three-point contact and a rope system. The number after the decimal is the difficulty rating and is set by the first person to send the route.

The V system (also the Hueco system) is for boulding specifically, which is a lot harder and the ratings reflect that. A V6 and a 5.6 for example are nowhere near comparable. As a new climber I'd expect you to do a 5.6 no sweat, but it would be months before you'd want to try a V6. I have only done outdoor cleaning and top-roping in gyms, but I try at least one bouldering route when I go to the gym.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:



Slim Killington posted:

Yay new climber!

5.0 to 5.15 is a grading scale that refers to the climb as you've already figured out; the 5 refers to the steepness (a 5 is vertical or mostly vertical). A 1 would be walking on flat ground, 3 would be a steep hill. 5 is where actual climbing begins where you need three-point contact and a rope system. The number after the decimal is the difficulty rating and is set by the first person to send the route.

The V system (also the Hueco system) is for boulding specifically, which is a lot harder and the ratings reflect that. A V6 and a 5.6 for example are nowhere near comparable. As a new climber I'd expect you to do a 5.6 no sweat, but it would be months before you'd want to try a V6. I have only done outdoor cleaning and top-roping in gyms, but I try at least one bouldering route when I go to the gym.

Okay that makes sense! Yea we ended up on 5.8 which seemed like the perfect level of mind challenges as well as learning better placement/less giant hand holds. I almost made it after a few tries but my arms felt like jello that I was slapping against odd shaped rocks haha. I'll definitely try out some bouldering when I go tomorrow. Are the routes mapped out by tape? I guess you try and only use the holds that the tape is next to or on?

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR


Yeah, you'll follow taped routes just like when you top-rope. You'll notice two holds (sometimes just one) that have a "V" taped under them, those are the starting position for your hands. Your feet can typically start anywhere. Routes should be marked with what's "on" or "off," meaning where you can and can't place hands and feet. "Feet all on" for example means you can put your foot on any hold. "Feet natural" means you can use the tape for your route OR the natural fake rock face for footholds. This all applies to top-roping too, there are usually little cards on the wall with that info on it.

I rainbow a lot (using different taped holds than your route) to complete boulder routes because I'm so bad at them, so don't feel like you can't do that. I'd rather rainbow once or twice than not get off the ground.

Also re: Jello arms, remember to shake the folic acid out of your arms between climbs. Put your hands in the air and wave 'em like you just don't care.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Claes Oldenburger posted:

Okay that makes sense! Yea we ended up on 5.8 which seemed like the perfect level of mind challenges as well as learning better placement/less giant hand holds. I almost made it after a few tries but my arms felt like jello that I was slapping against odd shaped rocks haha. I'll definitely try out some bouldering when I go tomorrow. Are the routes mapped out by tape? I guess you try and only use the holds that the tape is next to or on?

Typically there are several different routes on any particular rope. Each route will be marked with a single color of tape. So something with red tape may be marked as 5.6, for example. You should only use the holds (for hands or feet) that are marked with red tape in that case.

5.8 is pretty difficult for a new climber - the best new climbers I have taken to my gym started around 5.6 and rapidly moved on to 5.7.

Typh
Apr 17, 2003

LAY EGG IS TRUE!!!


Claes Oldenburger posted:

yesterday
Toronto
belay
I don't suppose this was at Joe Rockhead's yesterday morning? I was there! In fact, my climbing partner's wife also did the belay course at that time (10:30 - 1:30).

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

armorer posted:

5.8 is pretty difficult for a new climber - the best new climbers I have taken to my gym started around 5.6 and rapidly moved on to 5.7.

On the contrary, somebody who's in-shape and has a long reach can start on 8s pretty easily. However, cheating (using other holds or placements) on a gym route pretty much defeats the purpose - only do it if you fall and want to get back to where you were.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Mar 3, 2013

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001



Slim Killington posted:

Yay new climber!

but it would be months before you'd want to try a V6.

XD

Actually I do have content. I've mention that I instruct climbing classes at the local college here. Towards the end of this past quarter my students were really in to trying this one dyne we had put up. They threw themselves at it a LOT and finally one kid got it. It was a lot of fun to see.

One of my students filmed a short compilation of climbs in the class including many failed attempts at said dyno. Coolest part is that he has a 3D camera on his phone and filmed the whole thing in 3d. Pretty cool!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq0Yxt-dCfE

I'm the guy in the grey shirt and dark hat that doesn't fall.

Cybor Tap fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Mar 4, 2013

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Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR


I can't climb anything higher than a V3. I couldn't even send a V1 when I started.

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