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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

Everything outside is too cold besides shelf on warm days. I had friends go up to three sisters for some reason on new years and all I heard back was it was unbearably cold.

This is, in fact, false. Any time the boulders sit at 40F, you have maximum friction. :colbert:

Satellites is fine as long as it isn't making the boulders gross and wet. Dry, cold climbing is the best climbing.

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XIII
Feb 11, 2009




turevidar posted:

Hey CO goons, I might be interviewing for a job in Denver. What do people go for bouldering? I'm assuming everything is snowed in - would I be able to hike around and check things out at least?

There's a handful of us that climb a few times a week at Denver Bouldering Club. Sprowzek climbs at Movement because he likes ropes and/or doesn't like the rest of us.

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009


Grimey Drawer

I just got diagnosed with a mild meniscal tear and I might be out for 6 weeks. Fuuuuuuuuuckkkkkkkkk.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

This is, in fact, false. Any time the boulders sit at 40F, you have maximum friction. :colbert:

Satellites is fine as long as it isn't making the boulders gross and wet. Dry, cold climbing is the best climbing.

Well it was 20F and in the shade. Just saying. We might eek or 40 in Denver next week but it also is going to snow the next two days.

Not saying you can't go climb just that it is going to be pretty not warm or fun.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



XIII posted:

There's a handful of us that climb a few times a week at Denver Bouldering Club. Sprowzek climbs at Movement because he likes ropes and/or doesn't like the rest of us.

I like you guys, just ropes are so much better than bouldering. I also took 6 weeks off and I am just getting back into it. Still leading 11a at least.

XIII
Feb 11, 2009




spwrozek posted:

I like you guys, just ropes are so much better than bouldering. I also took 6 weeks off and I am just getting back into it. Still leading 11a at least.

It's okay. We don't really like you that much.

Also, I spent a solid 10min repeatedly falling off a kid's problem last night while Bud Manstrong and deong laughed at me.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


turevidar posted:

Hey CO goons, I might be interviewing for a job in Denver. What do people go for bouldering? I'm assuming everything is snowed in - would I be able to hike around and check things out at least?

When are you interviewing? There's a storm coming in today that'll leave some fresh snow most everywhere. I mentioned a page ago or so that Morrison's north side "cave" is climbable year round even when it's snowing, but the problems are polished as hell and everything is massively chalked. I've sent everything in there I think I'll ever send, but it can still be a good experience to climb and drink coffee (and/or whiskey) in a sheltered cave while it's snowing. I don't love climbing below 40 unless the crag is sun-facing; I tend to hurt myself because I can't feel my fingers anymore. Otherwise you could just drink beer and climb indoors. Three Sisters has enough stuff that's sheltered and overhung that you might be able to climb if you're really interested and it's not insanely cold. The trick will be hiking there; it can get pretty snowy. It's usually good a couple of days after a storm, after the snowshoes and fatbikes have packed it down a bit, and it's a nice hike in any case.

deong
Jun 13, 2001

I'll see you in heck!


XIII posted:

It's okay. We don't really like you that much.

Also, I spent a solid 10min repeatedly falling off a kid's problem last night while Bud Manstrong and deong laughed at me.

10 min? :smugjones:

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Bud Manstrong posted:

When are you interviewing? There's a storm coming in today that'll leave some fresh snow most everywhere. I mentioned a page ago or so that Morrison's north side "cave" is climbable year round even when it's snowing, but the problems are polished as hell and everything is massively chalked. I've sent everything in there I think I'll ever send, .

We actually had about 30 people out there in September and we cleaned the entire cave. Removing 30+ years of chalk and boot rubber. The friction afterwards was pretty insane. You might be able to get on all kinds of stuff now.

compton ass terry
Nov 20, 2006

Do you know where I'm from?

gamera009 posted:

Satellites will def be open if there hasn't been a heavy rain. I have five crash pads and am nearly always up for working in the boulders there or my own projects.

Flagstaff is also a constant option.

Both will feature a lot of good textured sandstone, but flagstaff is more crystalline.

Boulder is basically my back yard, so if you're looking for some guiding I am always happy to oblige. Also, there are a fair few bouldering goons out my way that are always up for delicious beer post climb.

I actually scored a super cheap flight up in early February to ski, so climbing is out. I'll definitely hit you up come April / May to get some bouldering in.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Awkward Davies posted:

I just got diagnosed with a mild meniscal tear and I might be out for 6 weeks. Fuuuuuuuuuckkkkkkkkk.

I took a lead fall and for some reason decided to catch myself knee first instead of feet first. I might be back after 3 or 4 weeks, wearing a knee pad. Injuries suck :(

Also there are some cool people who climb DBC Tuesdays.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Happiness Commando posted:

I took a lead fall and for some reason decided to catch myself knee first instead of feet first. I might be back after 3 or 4 weeks, wearing a knee pad. Injuries suck :(

Also there are some cool people who climb DBC Tuesdays.
Sorry, man. I've tried to break a lead fall with my shin bone. It went about as well as you'd expect.

If one of those people has a beard and brings a corgi sometimes, one of those people is me.

FiestaDePantalones
May 13, 2005

Kicked in the pants by TFLC

I too have a beard, climb at a gym, and have a corgi. Are you my brother?

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Bud Manstrong posted:

Sorry, man. I've tried to break a lead fall with my shin bone. It went about as well as you'd expect.

If one of those people has a beard and brings a corgi sometimes, one of those people is me.

I'll keep my eyes out for corgis, I haven't noticed you before. I climb with the meetup weirdos.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


FiestaDePantalones posted:

I too have a beard, climb at a gym, and have a corgi. Are you my brother?

It's not outside the realm of possibility. You could also be me, and now my head hurts.

Happiness Commando posted:

I'll keep my eyes out for corgis, I haven't noticed you before. I climb with the meetup weirdos.

I don't know them necessarily, but I'd probably recognize you guys. Feel free to come say hi or spray beta or something.

Bud Manstrong fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jan 8, 2016

XIII
Feb 11, 2009




I'm the white guy with a beard and sleeved arms. So I am everyone at DBC.

deong
Jun 13, 2001

I'll see you in heck!


FiestaDePantalones posted:

I too have a beard, climb at a gym, and have a corgi. Are you my brother?

Twinsies!!!!

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009


Grimey Drawer

Happiness Commando posted:

I took a lead fall and for some reason decided to catch myself knee first instead of feet first. I might be back after 3 or 4 weeks, wearing a knee pad. Injuries suck :(

Also there are some cool people who climb DBC Tuesdays.

gently caress that sucks. Hope you heal up quickly.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



XIII posted:

I'm the white guy with a beard and sleeved arms. So I am everyone at DBC.

I am the fat Asian that flails a lot. So you are not me.

Ninja edit: also subpar at climbing.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

I am the fat Asian that flails a lot. So you are not me.

Ninja edit: also subpar at climbing.

Lol, you think you are fat.

Ninja edit to your Ninja edit... Good at climbing

Internet Explorer
Jun 1, 2005


The wife and I had a good time watching you guys boulder in Boulder last time around. We'd love to tag along and watch you guys climb when the weather gets nicer. We're still too out of shape to try anything!

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Internet Explorer posted:

The wife and I had a good time watching you guys boulder in Boulder last time around. We'd love to tag along and watch you guys climb when the weather gets nicer. We're still too out of shape to try anything!

You're never too out of shape to climb. Even I manage it.

Also, one of the strongest climbers I know looks like a total soft lardass, but he's ridiculously strong. His grip strength is crazy, and it just came from years of climbing. He's never lost weight according to him - and he looks like it. Just got super strong haha.

It's pretty hilarious to see him at the gym, and people look at him super skeptically since he looks like a short, tubby blimp; and then he crushes poo poo that a bunch of shirtless bouldering bros are struggling on.

shabbat goy
Oct 4, 2008





A few weeks ago I saw a bouldering competition video on youtube and got it in my head that I wanted to try it. Went for the first time last night and it was dope. I had a friend with me who knew what she was doing, which made it a little nicer. Did (sent?) a few VB's and V0's, and then a V1 but definitely started to feel at that level like I was just brute forcing my way up it with way too much arms, so I've gotta focus on my feet placement more I guess? I'm slowly working my way through this thread. Everyone at the gym was super nice, so I got a lot of good pointers and had a lot of fun :)

Also, some of the routes were marked "no stem", what does that mean? I have to put both feet on a single hold?

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Stemming is a technique you use in a corner: you put one foot on each wall. If you do it properly you can just stand there and rest your arms. It's an important skill for managing fatigue in long routes, but for a boulder problem it can remove a lot of the challenge.

That note was the setter's way of saying "I know this trick is possible and makes things easier - don't cheat." If that problem were found outside the restriction would be pretty contrived and silly, but indoors you have to work with the walls you have. It sounds like the setter really wanted to use a particular wall section because of its shape, steepness, etc but wanted to pretend that the adjacent wall didn't exist.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


I like it when a problem/route has multiple grades set, one with and one without use of a bridge, stem, volume etc, especially if the higher grade is something you have to work towards.

It is a bit awkward on short indoor boulder problems when you feel as though maybe the setter was just kind of height challenged and you figure out a way to do it in like 3 moves. Even worse when the intended route forces you into a really cramped spot somewhere :argh:

XIII
Feb 11, 2009




^says you. I love when a regular move for my friends is a dynamo for me.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Hi thread. I'm not from Denver or anything but my wife and I started climbing at a gym a couple months ago and I have been enjoying it a lot. I'm still pretty weak and have bad footwork, but I'm tall so I've been able to progress from barely getting 5.5's on my first visit to now being able to on-sight 5.7's pretty regularly. I'm still really challenged by V1's bouldering.

One beginner question regarding bouldering: I'm really bad at actually getting on the wall when your starting position is with two handholds that are like chest-high. In the diagram below, the two handholds are both marked Start.



I assume you're supposed to kind of lean back to keep your arms straight and then get your foot up, but I think I'm missing something. When I try to do that, I'm too far back to reach a higher hold. I usually just have to cheat and reach up to a higher hold to actually get onto the wall.

What should I be doing in this situation?

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Boulder problems generally sit start or squat start. Get your butt as close to the ground as you can with your hands on the start holds. This will help you straighten your arms without leaning out away from the wall.

In general, try to keep your hips and shoulders close in to the wall.

asur
Dec 28, 2012


If the hold to the left is on as a foot then your hips, and probably core, should be facing left and then to move to the next hold, move your core pushing with your right foot. Starting should look something like this. If the hold to the left isn't on or available then you can do the same thing leaving your left foot flagged out. Starting in a squat facing the wall is generally not a great position as it force your core away from the wall, but if the handholds are good you can push with your feet while keeping your arms straight and move up in an arc. As turevidar said, you generally want to keep your hips and core close to the wall and instead of pulling try to push with your feet. Keeping your hips close to wall involves twisting at the torso to face the hips away from the wall and allow you to bend your knees otherwise bending your knees will force your hips away from the wall.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Thanks! I'll try this out when I go tomorrow and report back.

shabbat goy
Oct 4, 2008





What's the break-in like for climbing shoes, typically? Between my dividends and end of year clearance, I got a good deal on some Evolv Shaman's at REI and they're quite a bit different from the gym rentals (I am not surprised by this.) It's not a struggle to fit my foot in and I feel like if they break in or stretch at all they'll be perfect, but if that's not gonna happen I may trade them in for a half size larger.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Those are synthetic, so they won't stretch very much. It has been my experience that shoes take three to four weeks to break in fully - I climb around three days a week.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

shabbat goy posted:

What's the break-in like for climbing shoes, typically? Between my dividends and end of year clearance, I got a good deal on some Evolv Shaman's at REI and they're quite a bit different from the gym rentals (I am not surprised by this.) It's not a struggle to fit my foot in and I feel like if they break in or stretch at all they'll be perfect, but if that's not gonna happen I may trade them in for a half size larger.

They sound ok to me - even synthetic shoes will mold to your feet a little bit, and it sounds like they only need to break in or stretch very slightly to become less uncomfortable.

As long as they're not actually painful, perhaps just slightly uncomfortable, you should be good after 1 month or so of climbing. But if they're agonising, they're likely too small.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Anyone have any climbing recommendations near Phoenix? A buddy and I are flying in the first weekend of February for 3 days of climbing to escape the Canadian cold. As of now, we're thinking of Queen Creek Canyon and staying in a nearby town. He'd be mostly looking for good routes in the 12+/13- range and I'm mostly interested in 11+/12-.

GoodbyeTurtles
Aug 18, 2012

:suezo:



First time back at the climbing gym in 2 weeks and they've set up a bunch of new routes (no grades up yet) for an upcoming comp so I decided to give one on the 16M wall a go on top rope.

Turns out it was a 6c, so technically the hardest thing I've completed at the gym outside of the bouldering room.

Next week I'm learning to lead. :c00l:

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Nifty posted:


Jack of all Trades, a v5. My new project. Left hand two finger pocket is sick. The rail feature I'm pinching is surreal. Starts matched on the crimp on the bottom right, with little slab-ish feet. I did all the moves individually, and by the time I figured out the beta it was starting to rain. Psyched to get it next trip

Well a few months later and got back to this project I've been training for and... the hold broke. This little pocket had a fully formed base, now its useless and you have to try some ridiculous gaston or something. What a heartbreaker

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


What type of rock is it?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



What if you tried to jam? Also did the good break while you were climbing or when you got there you got the slap in the face?

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Its sandstone, so easily breakable. It hasn't been raining so I don't think it was that, I think the hold just had its time.

A jam is theoretically physically possible but not really doable/positive. And unfortunately the discovery of the broken hold was just after the ~30 minute approach, I came upon it and had to scream in sadness. Didnt even get to work it again.

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Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


think i popped my a4 pulley in my left pinky finger. it's my first pulley injury in almost 10 years of climbing, really not looking forward to having to rehab it =/

the good-ish news is that i popped it in the middle of sending a long-standing project =D

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