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crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


You can't tell us that without saying what the proj was...

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remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


I just found out today that this website is a thing:

http://jive-assanchors.com

My fave is the newest post showing an American Death Triangle hung in Ouray Ice Park. As if the ADT isn't bad enough, add crampons to the mix! Should be fun times.

As an aside, guess where I'm going this weekend!?!?! I will not be trading ropes at Ouray Ice Park. Noooooope.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


crazycello posted:

You can't tell us that without saying what the proj was...

it was the pearl at red rock. i've never been particularly good on shallow pockets and crimps, so this thing has always felt super hard for me. psyched to finally send it, but the pulley sprain is a real bummer. TBH it just seems kind of freakish because i never really crimped very hard with my left hand, so i don't know what made it pop... just bad luck, oh well

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Haha the Pearl is hosed up, I gave that problem like two goes and hated how it made my left fingers feel and have had no desire to touch it again. Glad you sent it, you earned it on that shallow lovely pocket and lovely feet

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Save me jeebus posted:

I just found out today that this website is a thing:

http://jive-assanchors.com

My fave is the newest post showing an American Death Triangle hung in Ouray Ice Park. As if the ADT isn't bad enough, add crampons to the mix! Should be fun times.

As an aside, guess where I'm going this weekend!?!?! I will not be trading ropes at Ouray Ice Park. Noooooope.

Hahaha, oh god this is gold, that hobnail piton. :cripes:

Reminds me of the poo poo my buddy has been sending me from Japan:

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Rime posted:

Hahaha, oh god this is gold, that hobnail piton. :cripes:

Reminds me of the poo poo my buddy has been sending me from Japan:



I was about to say that the hobnail piton reminded me of some of the old pro in the Garden of the Gods, then I saw your photo. People climb on that in TYOOL 2016?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Save me jeebus posted:

I was about to say that the hobnail piton reminded me of some of the old pro in the Garden of the Gods, then I saw your photo. People climb on that in TYOOL 2016?

People do all kinds of janky poo poo while climbing.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

People do all kinds of janky poo poo while climbing.

Truth. My first trad lead was in the Garden. It has two manky old pins on it (25' runout to the first pin). Suffice it to say I was out of my head on my first trad run and was super stoked to see an old pin.

Headhunter
Jun 3, 2003
One - You lock the target

Managed to go over on my ankle tonight whilst bouldering. First 'proper' injury in 2.5 years of climbing. Pretty bummed right now as it really hurts and is bigger than it's supposed to be. Time for some RICE I guess :(

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


Headhunter posted:

Managed to go over on my ankle tonight whilst bouldering. First 'proper' injury in 2.5 years of climbing. Pretty bummed right now as it really hurts and is bigger than it's supposed to be. Time for some RICE I guess :(

I've done this to both my ankles from bouldering in the past few years. Both my sprains were pretty bad, and left me on crutches for a couple weeks and in a compression wrap for longer. My only advice would be to see a PT as soon as you can and be dedicated to rehab. You want to start rehabbing ASAP, after the inflammation goes down, but obviously you need to be careful with it in the beginning. My 2nd sprain healed probably 2x faster than my first sprain on account of me being more diligent with PT.

no broccoli please
Apr 20, 2007

no broccoli please you are nice here is a Nathaniel Hawthorne avatar

One with the wall tonight.

no broccoli please fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Feb 5, 2016

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

You know your game is good today if you can edge on buddha's nose.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Black Diamond is recalling a bunch of biners and runners. Check your gear.

http://www.climbing.com/news/black-diamond-carabiner-and-runner-recall/

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Headhunter posted:

Managed to go over on my ankle tonight whilst bouldering. First 'proper' injury in 2.5 years of climbing. Pretty bummed right now as it really hurts and is bigger than it's supposed to be. Time for some RICE I guess :(

Get an X-ray. I rolled my ankle and the tendon ripped a piece of bone off. Bone refused in the right spot basically but I should have been wearing a full support boot during the healing process.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


gently caress. I think I jacked up my shoulder at Ouray last weekend. I was on some rotten ice (I dumbly went off-route to avoid some assholes who were tossing down ropes without calling them; I got tagged by their first throw and narrowly missed the second "Oh, we didn't see anyone down there, so we didn't call it." :downs:) with my right arm locked off, reaching up with my left. Feet gave out, I fell full-weight onto my right ice tool and felt a pop. I did a few more climbs that day, and felt fine the next day.

Then Snowmaggedon came and I spent an hour and a half clearing wet, heavy snow on Monday. Tuesday it was wrecked. After a whole week of shoveling snow, lifting poo poo at work, and cutting 80lb of various veg/protein at work per day, I can feel a big tough cord of...something, in my deltoid. It's sore and weak. :sigh:

Any suggestions as to therapeutic exercises, or should I just stay off of it while it heals?

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Just booked my ticket for a week at Red Rocks :dance:

Is anyone familiar with the bouldering there? I would appreciate recommendations.

Headhunter
Jun 3, 2003
One - You lock the target

French Canadian posted:

Get an X-ray. I rolled my ankle and the tendon ripped a piece of bone off. Bone refused in the right spot basically but I should have been wearing a full support boot during the healing process.

That sounds horrendous. I'm going to go to the doctors tomorrow I think as it's still swollen 10 days later. Really hate the mental side of being injured.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



turevidar posted:

Just booked my ticket for a week at Red Rocks :dance:

Is anyone familiar with the bouldering there? I would appreciate recommendations.

Kraft and Gateway Canyon (next to each other) are the classic areas. If you are there a week though you'll want more, but it depends on what grade you climb

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

Heading to El Potrero Chico this Saturday for a week of climbing. I'm really excited. This will be my first time there and my first time doing some multi-pitch.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Niyqor posted:

Heading to El Potrero Chico this Saturday for a week of climbing. I'm really excited. This will be my first time there and my first time doing some multi-pitch.

Hope you practiced change overs and what you do if you have problems. Being slow at change overs is the difference between being caught in the dark and making it back for dinner, beer, and a sunset.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


crazycello posted:

Anyone have any climbing recommendations near Phoenix? A buddy and I are flying in the first weekend of February for 3 days of climbing to escape the Canadian cold. As of now, we're thinking of Queen Creek Canyon and staying in a nearby town. He'd be mostly looking for good routes in the 12+/13- range and I'm mostly interested in 11+/12-.

Update: Queen Creek Canyon is alright if you're in the area but kinda meh. However, 'The Homestead' is fantastic.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BBgfieswoyOwQoUE7_dC3Hs5BnIvW5HjKSoDNA0/

Tufa wrestling.

crazycello fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Feb 9, 2016

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


crazycello posted:

Update: Queen Creek Canyon is alright if you're in the area but kinda meh. However, 'The Homestead' is fantastic.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BBgfieswoyOwQoUE7_dC3Hs5BnIvW5HjKSoDNA0/

Tufa wrestling.

Private account, yo.

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


Headhunter posted:

Managed to go over on my ankle tonight whilst bouldering. First 'proper' injury in 2.5 years of climbing. Pretty bummed right now as it really hurts and is bigger than it's supposed to be. Time for some RICE I guess :(
That sucks, but hopefully you'll be up again soon, just make sure you look after it. I've just started climbing again after a 6 month total break following some kind of open handed tendon strain, my first 'proper' injury after about 3.5 years of climbing. I was down a grade or two the first couple of times at the gym, but after being back for a month and a bit, maybe 8 trips, I'm pretty much back where I was. Still being careful as it feels dodgy open handing on the tip of my right hand ring finger with a dropped pinky, but the pain is gone...feels good!

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Rime posted:

Private account, yo.



tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

How is the road up to the Homestead? Do you still need a 4x4 with rear lockers to get up?

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


tortilla_chip posted:

How is the road up to the Homestead? Do you still need a 4x4 with rear lockers to get up?

You definitely need a 4x4, but it's walkable if you don't mind long approaches. My buddy and I parked our rental car by the highway and made it to the furthest crag in about 80 minutes with some time lost routefinding. I'm sure you could make to welcome wall in 50, but the climbing there didn't touch anything I tried at the other walls.

pokie
Apr 26, 2008

IT HAPPENED!



That feel when you finish your first multi-pitch.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Joining the injury train. :smith:

DBC set a traverse around a large volume with glassy as poo poo feet. I brushed it to what I figured was as good as it gets, and gave it a whirl. The exit around the volume had no hands, so I was trying to crimp on a foot jib and my foot blew off some of the glassiest poo poo I have had to put feet on.

Wrenched shoulder and wrist. Face came down and a jug below smashed into my jaw and slammed it up and wrenched my head back. The impact tossed me onto my back on the mat.

Day after:
Limited mobility in shoulder and wrist due to pain.
Neck has limited range of motion due to pain. Stiff as hell.
Abrasion under chin from impacting the hold.
Bit through tongue (.1-.2cm?) and took out a small piece that I swallowed by accident.
My jaw hurts like hell the next day and my right ear feels full and needs to pop. Like a bad earache.

I have no idea if I was concussed. Really disoriented ex post facto, but managed to drive home before getting help cleaning up and just passing out.

I don't really have the time to see a doctor and I'm not sure what they'd tell me other than "don't do that again."

Definitely raises a question in my mind though: should gyms take into consideration existing routes when bolting up holds from the standpoint of safety? I think the fall wouldn't have been so bad if there wasn't the jug haul running right through it in such a way as to guarantee you smashing your face in them. BudManstrong did the problem before me and had nearly the same injury (clipped his face lightly). I should have taken that as a sign not to do it, but I'm clearly an idiot.

XIII
Feb 11, 2009




I've imagined falling and hitting my face like that a bunch of times (and have fallen off that exact route multiple times thanks to the awesome feet), so it was definitely scary when you said, "I think I bit off a piece of my tongue." Heal up, buddy.

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

gamera009 posted:

Joining the injury train. :smith:

DBC set a traverse around a large volume with glassy as poo poo feet. I brushed it to what I figured was as good as it gets, and gave it a whirl. The exit around the volume had no hands, so I was trying to crimp on a foot jib and my foot blew off some of the glassiest poo poo I have had to put feet on.

Wrenched shoulder and wrist. Face came down and a jug below smashed into my jaw and slammed it up and wrenched my head back. The impact tossed me onto my back on the mat.

Day after:
Limited mobility in shoulder and wrist due to pain.
Neck has limited range of motion due to pain. Stiff as hell.
Abrasion under chin from impacting the hold.
Bit through tongue (.1-.2cm?) and took out a small piece that I swallowed by accident.
My jaw hurts like hell the next day and my right ear feels full and needs to pop. Like a bad earache.

I have no idea if I was concussed. Really disoriented ex post facto, but managed to drive home before getting help cleaning up and just passing out.

I don't really have the time to see a doctor and I'm not sure what they'd tell me other than "don't do that again."

Definitely raises a question in my mind though: should gyms take into consideration existing routes when bolting up holds from the standpoint of safety? I think the fall wouldn't have been so bad if there wasn't the jug haul running right through it in such a way as to guarantee you smashing your face in them. BudManstrong did the problem before me and had nearly the same injury (clipped his face lightly). I should have taken that as a sign not to do it, but I'm clearly an idiot.

Holy poo poo dude. Hope you can see a doc soon. :(

And setters really should look at a completed wall for safety issues once they're done setting; I know there were a few problems that bumped up in difficulty after the problems around them were set because the other holds complicated the movement through the earlier problem.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Gym climbing, the worse climbing.

I am always banging my arms on other routes that are super in the way.

Heal up my man.

pokie
Apr 26, 2008

IT HAPPENED!



That sounds horrible gamera009. :[ Feel better soon.

XIII
Feb 11, 2009




Checking to see if you'd broken any teeth made me seriously consider climbing in a mouth guard. Cracking my jaw and loving up a bunch of teeth is my nightmare and you brought it into the climbing gym!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



XIII posted:

Checking to see if you'd broken any teeth made me seriously consider climbing in a mouth guard. Cracking my jaw and loving up a bunch of teeth is my nightmare and you brought it into the climbing gym!

I know a really good dentist... :)

XIII
Feb 11, 2009




spwrozek posted:

I know a really good dentist... :)

I mean, you've been in my mouth, so why not your girlfriend too?

Prancing Shoes
Jul 7, 2008


What is a good second pair of (gym) shoes if my first pair are Scarpa Vapor Vs and I generally like them a lot? Also, what would be a good price for these recommended shoes? I got my Scarpas on sale from Amazon for about $75 last year.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Colour posted:

What is a good second pair of (gym) shoes if my first pair are Scarpa Vapor Vs and I generally like them a lot? Also, what would be a good price for these recommended shoes? I got my Scarpas on sale from Amazon for about $75 last year.

You could just buy the same pair again if you're into them. I have a pair of vapour v's that I like and use for multi pitch and sport in the past. They did me well on varied terrain and are super comfy if you have wide feet. However, I did upgrade to solutions for a more aggressive heel. That probably isn't necessary for you unless you're really looking to throw up some heel hooks

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


chami posted:

Holy poo poo dude. Hope you can see a doc soon. :(

And setters really should look at a completed wall for safety issues once they're done setting; I know there were a few problems that bumped up in difficulty after the problems around them were set because the other holds complicated the movement through the earlier problem.
Nothing gets my heart pumping like routes where the crux is a smeary section with your chin hovering inches above a jug, which my gym inexplicably loves to set. I'm amazed people don't bust their faces more often.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


crazycello posted:

You could just buy the same pair again if you're into them. I have a pair of vapour v's that I like and use for multi pitch and sport in the past. They did me well on varied terrain and are super comfy if you have wide feet. However, I did upgrade to solutions for a more aggressive heel. That probably isn't necessary for you unless you're really looking to throw up some heel hooks

Can +1 on this, the only reason I'm not still using mine is that I bought them a little too large and they eventually got broken in enough that the toe got kind of sloppy. I still use them for warm up shoes and they're great.

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henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


Good setting should take into account injury prevention both from poo poo like that as well as ergonomic contact with holds and discouraging movement paths that lead to injury. Like if the only way to do a move involves putting your shoulder in a compromised position, or if that's how people are climbing your route, you should change it to promote joint health. Same idea as not placing large volumes in fall zones on lead walls, or having the hardest moves on the route in the transition to the top out, or setting cruxes above splits between pads.

There's a setter at one of the gyms here who can not set a sloper/volume problem that doesn't result in terrible wrist position while under load and it sucks because otherwise fun routes lead to lots of tweaked wrists and poo poo, I don't try their routes any more because of it.

Did you mention this to the staff? If they've had at least two injuries from the same route with the same cause you should give them a heads up so they can fix it. We've moved routes around and modified things based on feedback and always appreciated receiving it.

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