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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



henne posted:

Did you mention this to the staff? If they've had at least two injuries from the same route with the same cause you should give them a heads up so they can fix it. We've moved routes around and modified things based on feedback and always appreciated receiving it.

I wasn't exactly functioning at 100%, so no. :ohdear:

In my defense, the deskie wasn't exactly running over to help from what I recall. I don't think she was even aware until someone I was with let her know I'd been injured.

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XIII
Feb 11, 2009




gamera009 posted:

I wasn't exactly functioning at 100%, so no. :ohdear:

In my defense, the deskie wasn't exactly running over to help from what I recall. I don't think she was even aware until someone I was with let her know I'd been injured.

I've seen her be quick to respond to two other falls in the past. Honestly, I don't think she really understood how hard you fell (otherwise you would have had to fill out an injury report). We were all pretty low key about it and there wasn't much to tip her off until someone went over asking about ice. I'll probably climb tomorrow, so I'll see if anything has changed around that route.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011
Probation
Can't post for 10 days!


It's 12* this week but it won't stop raaaaaining long enough to dry out the rock. I'm so sick of indoors. :argh:

Here's a stupid route at my local gym:



It's an 11b that starts with with two dyno's right off for anyone shorter than 6', and 2/3rds of the way up you hit these opposing slopers with one foothold waaaaay off to the left and no obvious progression.

Oh, and both dynos are to hand-pinch rectangles. First horizontal, second vertical. No pockets anywhere aside from the first undercling.

3 of us tried, three of us were clean and failed utterly at the slopers.

Headhunter
Jun 3, 2003
One - You lock the target

gamera009 posted:

Joining the injury train. :smith:

gently caress. That sounds horrendous. Get well soon man.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I'm starting to feel really comfortable with 5.9 level climbs. flashed a 5.10 today so I need to finally try some more of those. feels like im atleast ready to try out lead climbing. is there a consensus. The gym says they recomend being comfortable with 5.9 before doing the lead climbing class and getting into that ish.

asur
Dec 28, 2012


www.amazon.com posted:

I'm starting to feel really comfortable with 5.9 level climbs. flashed a 5.10 today so I need to finally try some more of those. feels like im atleast ready to try out lead climbing. is there a consensus. The gym says they recomend being comfortable with 5.9 before doing the lead climbing class and getting into that ish.

I reccomending leading as soon as possible. The only reason I can think of to limit it is if the gym doesn't set lead routes at lower difficulty.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011
Probation
Can't post for 10 days!


Yeah, lead makes those 5.9 and 5.10 routes heart-poundingly fun again. :woop:

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009


Grimey Drawer

I've also been on the injury train. Strained the meniscus in my left knee. Been out since the New Year. Had 5 weeks of PT but honestly I think they made things worse, to the point that I had a cortisone shot to bring some swelling down.

Hoping to go back to it at the beginning of March. Kinda freaked out about hurting myself again. Doc said 6-8 weeks away from climbing, and I'm giving it the full 8, so hopefully it'll be fine.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


www.amazon.com posted:

I'm starting to feel really comfortable with 5.9 level climbs. flashed a 5.10 today so I need to finally try some more of those. feels like im atleast ready to try out lead climbing. is there a consensus. The gym says they recomend being comfortable with 5.9 before doing the lead climbing class and getting into that ish.

i think most gyms have a grade threshold for leading to 1) weed out total gumbies, but more importantly 2) because they want you to take your lead climbing test on an overhanging route, which tend to be at least 5.9, so you can take a nice clean fall

a couple thoughts on leading in the gym:

- being a good lead belayer is infinitely more important than being a good lead climber. the lead class will be a great way to learn the basics, but to be a truly competent belayer you need tons of practice and an understanding of best practices, modes of failure for your given belay device, and plans for how you might react in certain relatively common situations. practice is the most important part, but you can get a start on the other bits by reading a ton. there's no single comprehensive source for reading about belaying, so my recommendation would just be to read as much as you can and see what themes/ideas emerge across different sources. ideally it's best to learn all of this directly from an experienced mentor, but i realize that's not always an option

- what are your goals? are you planning to climb outdoors in the near future? if so, learning to lead makes sense, but i'd say it's even more important to find a mentor. climbing outdoors is a significantly higher commitment and has many more considerations than climbing in the gym. if you're not planning on going outdoors, i'd say there's no rush to start lead climbing. if you're just getting comfortable with 5.9 in the gym then you have a lot of room to improve in terms of fitness, and i don't think you need to 'rush' into the added technical complexity of lead climbing

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


My local tests on a 5.10d 5.11b double overhung, traversing (4 other) routes. Insert subjective grading critique here, but goddamn if Planet Granite in Portland wasn't a 5.9/5.10a pretty much straight up with maybe a slight incline all the way up for 15m.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


It's crazy to wait to test that high. I'd want climbers to learn the fundamentals of leading as soon as possible before they start going outside, but not until they've gotten a solid foundation. 9/10a seems reasonable because the gyms can set overhung routes with cleaner falls. If you wait until they climb 11b (even inside), you're losing a lot of time. I completely agree that the best route is to find a mentor, but there aren't enough trad graybeards to go around :(

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Bud Manstrong posted:

It's crazy to wait to test that high. I'd want climbers to learn the fundamentals of leading as soon as possible before they start going outside, but not until they've gotten a solid foundation. 9/10a seems reasonable because the gyms can set overhung routes with cleaner falls. If you wait until they climb 11b (even inside), you're losing a lot of time. I completely agree that the best route is to find a mentor, but there aren't enough trad graybeards to go around :(

Agreed. I need a new trad gray beard.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

Agreed. I need a new trad gray beard.

I climb trad with Simone and Adam. You could ask them.

deong
Jun 13, 2001

I'll see you in heck!


gamera009 posted:

I climb trad with Simone and Adam. You could ask them.

Or you could just grow your fu manchu already.

XIII
Feb 11, 2009




deong posted:

Or you could just grow your fu manchu already.

gamera might be the only person I know who's less capable of growing facial hair than you

deong
Jun 13, 2001

I'll see you in heck!


XIII posted:

gamera might be the only person I know who's less capable of growing facial hair than you

Fu man-glue?

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Agreed. I need a new trad gray beard.

i think they're called trad dad's. or daddy's.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



crazycello posted:

i think they're called trad dad's. or daddy's.

That sounds profane. :bigtran:

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



crazycello posted:

i think they're called trad dad's. or daddy's.

I think I threw up in my mouth a little.

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006



Dinosaur Gum

Hey all, newbie climber question here.

I've recently gotten into climbing a lot, mainly indoor bouldering at the moment. I'm looking to get my first pair of shoes rather than renting ill fitting smelly ones from the gym. I went and tried on a few pairs from different brands like Scarpa, Red Chilli, Evolv etc but I seemed to have a similar issue with all of them. That issue being they were all pretty uncomfortable and constricting at the toe end, but had a lot of excess space at the heel end. I tried on models that were marketed more towards comfort with flatter soles but they all seemed to have that issue.

Is this something that will change as I wear the shoes in, or am I missing something about the sizing of climbing shoes?

Falkaugaa
Feb 13, 2010


NaDy posted:

Hey all, newbie climber question here.

I've recently gotten into climbing a lot, mainly indoor bouldering at the moment. I'm looking to get my first pair of shoes rather than renting ill fitting smelly ones from the gym. I went and tried on a few pairs from different brands like Scarpa, Red Chilli, Evolv etc but I seemed to have a similar issue with all of them. That issue being they were all pretty uncomfortable and constricting at the toe end, but had a lot of excess space at the heel end. I tried on models that were marketed more towards comfort with flatter soles but they all seemed to have that issue.

Is this something that will change as I wear the shoes in, or am I missing something about the sizing of climbing shoes?

The lasts vary between manufacturers and even individual models, so your best bet is just to try on a ton of different shoes. I didn't find a heel that felt solid until I got La Sportiva pythons, 4 (EU) sizes smaller than my street shoes.

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

NaDy posted:

Hey all, newbie climber question here.

I've recently gotten into climbing a lot, mainly indoor bouldering at the moment. I'm looking to get my first pair of shoes rather than renting ill fitting smelly ones from the gym. I went and tried on a few pairs from different brands like Scarpa, Red Chilli, Evolv etc but I seemed to have a similar issue with all of them. That issue being they were all pretty uncomfortable and constricting at the toe end, but had a lot of excess space at the heel end. I tried on models that were marketed more towards comfort with flatter soles but they all seemed to have that issue.

Is this something that will change as I wear the shoes in, or am I missing something about the sizing of climbing shoes?

What Falkaugaa said, plus uncomfortable toeboxes may or may not break in depending on the material of the shoe and the last, but dead space in the heel will always be a problem. What style of shoes were you looking at (aggressively cambered or symmetrical, downturned or flat-lasted) and have you measured your feet? Do you have wide feet or Morton's Toe?

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006



Dinosaur Gum

Falkaugaa posted:

The lasts vary between manufacturers and even individual models, so your best bet is just to try on a ton of different shoes. I didn't find a heel that felt solid until I got La Sportiva pythons, 4 (EU) sizes smaller than my street shoes.

Yeah I suppose I just need to try on a lot more. Comfort really is my main priority to be honest, I'd rather have a nice fitting pair of shoes to start with and be slightly less good at climbing than have crazy uncomfortable shoes that actively discourage me from putting them on.

chami posted:

What Falkaugaa said, plus uncomfortable toeboxes may or may not break in depending on the material of the shoe and the last, but dead space in the heel will always be a problem. What style of shoes were you looking at (aggressively cambered or symmetrical, downturned or flat-lasted) and have you measured your feet? Do you have wide feet or Morton's Toe?

I was looking at less aggressive ones with a more natural shape and fit. My feet are size 11 (UK) and are fairly wide. I'll try and find someone in store who can point me in the right direction probably.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


NaDy posted:

Yeah I suppose I just need to try on a lot more. Comfort really is my main priority to be honest, I'd rather have a nice fitting pair of shoes to start with and be slightly less good at climbing than have crazy uncomfortable shoes that actively discourage me from putting them on.


I was looking at less aggressive ones with a more natural shape and fit. My feet are size 11 (UK) and are fairly wide. I'll try and find someone in store who can point me in the right direction probably.

The old Scarpa vapour V's were great for my wide size 11 feet. They've now moved onto a new model that may not be as comfy, but it could be up your alley.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Bud Manstrong posted:

It's crazy to wait to test that high. I'd want climbers to learn the fundamentals of leading as soon as possible before they start going outside, but not until they've gotten a solid foundation. 9/10a seems reasonable because the gyms can set overhung routes with cleaner falls. If you wait until they climb 11b (even inside), you're losing a lot of time. I completely agree that the best route is to find a mentor, but there aren't enough trad graybeards to go around :(

I wish more gyms would set lower grade sport routes. I want to practice fundamentals, and not have to push myself both on technique and mechanics. Maybe I should put suggestion forms to better use and make my wishes known. It's worth a shot :shrug:

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



SeaborneClink posted:

I wish more gyms would set lower grade sport routes. I want to practice fundamentals, and not have to push myself both on technique and mechanics. Maybe I should put suggestion forms to better use and make my wishes known. It's worth a shot :shrug:

Movement in Denver sets down to 5.6. Anything under 5.9 is just giant jugs with jugs for feet. It would be hard to work on anything really. Usually pretty boring leads really.

Aphex-
Jan 29, 2006



Dinosaur Gum

crazycello posted:

The old Scarpa vapour V's were great for my wide size 11 feet. They've now moved onto a new model that may not be as comfy, but it could be up your alley.

Thanks for the heads up, I checked some out today but they were a little out of my price range. Picked up some Boreal Jokers though and they're great. Really snug fit which feels tight but not uncomfortable, and there's almost no excess space in the heel. Can't wait to try them out!

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



And so it begins: new shoe selection.

My evolve shaman pair are rapidly dying a terrible death (and malodorous) and washing them isn't fixing anything anymore. I'll definitely wear the rest of the front tow cap down, but it's time.

Anyone know of ridiculously wide toe-box shoes? I think the best thing I found at Neptune Mountaineering was the oddly not-too-uncomfy Sportiva pythons, but I'm always open to shoes that don't cost >$120. Someone I know suggested the boostics from scrap so I may try those as well.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Boostics felt really narrow to me.

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

gamera009 posted:

And so it begins: new shoe selection.

My evolve shaman pair are rapidly dying a terrible death (and malodorous) and washing them isn't fixing anything anymore. I'll definitely wear the rest of the front tow cap down, but it's time.

Anyone know of ridiculously wide toe-box shoes? I think the best thing I found at Neptune Mountaineering was the oddly not-too-uncomfy Sportiva pythons, but I'm always open to shoes that don't cost >$120. Someone I know suggested the boostics from scrap so I may try those as well.

If you're looking to save money your Shaman model is probably out on clearance due to the 2016 model getting released a little while ago.

I'm pretty fond of my Instinct VS for my wide-ish feet.

Siamang
Nov 15, 2003


I have 8.5EEE feet and over the past year and a half or so have worn:

Evolv Shamans: good width but hurt my heels a lot.
Scarpa Boostics: comfortable width but bruised my big toes.
Scarpa Instinct (lace): good width and no pain anywhere after break-in period. These are going to be my go-to shoe.

Size 8.5 in the Shaman and 42 in the Scarpas. I was able to pick all of them up on clearance for around $100.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

I probably mention this every time shoe chat happens, but it is helpful for some folks. If you don't have a good selection near you (and you are in the us), try zappos. They have free two way shipping and a decent selection of climbing shoes.

Just don't order 8 pairs of climbing shoes right before your CC bill closes for the month.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Siamang posted:

I have 8.5EEE feet and over the past year and a half or so have worn:

Evolv Shamans: good width but hurt my heels a lot.
Scarpa Boostics: comfortable width but bruised my big toes.
Scarpa Instinct (lace): good width and no pain anywhere after break-in period. These are going to be my go-to shoe.

Size 8.5 in the Shaman and 42 in the Scarpas. I was able to pick all of them up on clearance for around $100.

I'm in the same boat. Just tried the instinct VS and they felt good. Might pick up a pair if I can find it below $140. That poo poo is stupid expensive.

How is the odor control compared to the shaman?

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


Can you get sportiva edgeless shoes resoled? Anyone know where? Local place doesn't.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Call Rock and Resole. If anyone can, they can.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Rock and Resole does it, they don't mention it in their FAQ but it is mentioned if you pick the Futura or Genius on their order page:
http://rockandresole.com/climbing-gear/shoe-resole/

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


Thanks y'all. My futuras are the best shoes I've ever had btw, if you haven't tried edgeless you should.

Siamang
Nov 15, 2003


gamera009 posted:

I'm in the same boat. Just tried the instinct VS and they felt good. Might pick up a pair if I can find it below $140. That poo poo is stupid expensive.

How is the odor control compared to the shaman?

I never had a problem with smelly shoes, even with the shamans, until I went through a period when I left them in a backpack after climbing in them. My Boostics smelled bad, but the Instincts still smell like suede after several months because I've been keeping them very aired out in between sessions. I've heard a lot of people complaining about the Evolv shoe smell, though, and from my experience with synthetic materials + exercise, they tend to really reek.

benwards
Apr 9, 2007

Another youthful indiscretion


Wide shoe chat: I wear 9.5EEE in most fancy dress shoes, and I'll be damned if La Sportiva Miura VS aren't the comfiest shoes I've ever put on my feet. I get 'em in my street size, and they fit perfectly: no room to spare, great sensitivity, and just on the snug side of painful.

Boreal jokers also fit pretty well, but are way less aggressive. Same deal with La Sportiva Tarantulas, though they're more apt for trad or multipitch than they are for sport or gym climbing: flat, comfy, not aggressive at all.

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Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Oh good, shoe chat. Does anyone with Morton's Toe have a good recommendation for a technical pair? I tried some Tenaya Oasi but my second toe wouldn't let me wear them for 5 seconds.

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