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chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

Megabound posted:

Oh good, shoe chat. Does anyone with Morton's Toe have a good recommendation for a technical pair? I tried some Tenaya Oasi but my second toe wouldn't let me wear them for 5 seconds.

Morton's Toe and slightly wide feet - I regularly wear Instinct VS and Miura VS before that without too much issue. My index toe is only about 1cm longer than my big toe though, so the wider and higher volume toeboxes in both those models really help with comfort.

I actually also have a pair of the Tenaya Tarifas; they're less aggressive than the Oasi but Tenaya lasts are just too narrow for me. If you've got narrow - normal feet you might want to give those a try.

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Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Siamang posted:

I've heard a lot of people complaining about the Evolv shoe smell, though, and from my experience with synthetic materials + exercise, they tend to really reek.

My Evolvs smelled like rear end. I replaced them with Cyphers that I keep charcoal sachets in. I climb more than I used to and they still smell fresh

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


All Evolvs smell. I had to switch to Sportivas. I think it's synthetic versus leather :/

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


henne posted:

Thanks y'all. My futuras are the best shoes I've ever had btw, if you haven't tried edgeless you should.

i'm pretty interested in trying the futuras or geniuses, definitely will make a point to next time there's a shoe demo at a gym near me

i've been wearing miura laces for like 10 years, and i've realized that the most important aspect of breaking them in for me is wearing down the edge. it might not be truly 'edgeless' but i love when the edges get a little blunted -- so good for smedging, which basically works on any kind of foothold imaginable. part of me wonders whether it's worth paying a premium for the edgeless feature, if it's something i can get pretty close to by just breaking in my miura laces anyway...

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


can someone give me pros and cons of rowing instead of running, for climbing.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

The merits of cardio training for climbing are often debated, however in my experience a decent baseline is useful for recovery on endurance style routes. I think it's the Anderson brother's RCTM that says that running/biking adds unnecessary weight in the lower body (for climbing specific performance).

Rowing is good for building strength and stability through the shoulder girdle, as well as in the rhomboids which are often neglected by climbers.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005




So close to finishing the injury machine. :ohdear:

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



^^ So incredibly jealous

chami posted:

Morton's Toe and slightly wide feet - I regularly wear Instinct VS and Miura VS before that without too much issue. My index toe is only about 1cm longer than my big toe though, so the wider and higher volume toeboxes in both those models really help with comfort.

I actually also have a pair of the Tenaya Tarifas; they're less aggressive than the Oasi but Tenaya lasts are just too narrow for me. If you've got narrow - normal feet you might want to give those a try.

Thanks for the advice, I ended up getting a pair of Solutions. Doesn't seem to bother my Morton's at all. They're going to be a pain to break in and I thought I did myself a disservice when I hit up some top roping this morning, but I got onto some overhang bouldering problems and it made me feel like I was cheating.

I traded out for my comfy Pink Anasazis after a few climbs and the amount of slop in them blew my mind. They're definitely going to bring my climbing game up.

Recycle Bin
Feb 7, 2001

I'd rather be a pig than a fascist

Had my first outdoor climbing experience in the Outback in Joshua Tree. This may come as a shock, but it turns out that outdoor routes are VERY different from indoor gym routes. Still, had a lot of fun, and it gave me a lot of inspiration on what to work on back at the gym.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Joshua Tree's easy stuff is generally really hard. False Hueco in the outback is gym-y, though

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Nifty posted:

Joshua Tree's easy stuff is generally really hard. False Hueco in the outback is gym-y, though

this. jtree was pretty much a dick swinging contest/play ground for old stone masters. So everything tends to run stiff, especially cause most of it is single pitch.

Recycle Bin
Feb 7, 2001

I'd rather be a pig than a fascist

We mostly stuck around the Dino Egg area tackling V0's. I managed to finish a few, but man do I need to work on my crimping and edging. We ended the day at The Womb, which I couldn't muster up the nerve to finish. Crash pads and spotters can only help your mental game so much...

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Don't sweat it about finishing stuff on your first time out, especially weird topouts. Everybody remembers their transition from gym to outside, it takes some time to get comfortable. Don't get bothered about crimp strength, it will come with time, just keep climbing. Hangboarding/finger training is not necessary.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Looks like I am going to bail on movement Denver and head to earth treks. Way way way out of my way. But movement thinks it is OK to raise prices 12% and not email a single person who pays it monthly with automatic withdrawal. I guess they put a little sign out... What a joke.

XIII
Feb 11, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Looks like I am going to bail on movement Denver and head to earth treks. Way way way out of my way. But movement thinks it is OK to raise prices 12% and not email a single person who pays it monthly with automatic withdrawal. I guess they put a little sign out... What a joke.

You spelled DBC wrong

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



XIII posted:

You spelled DBC wrong

Get some walls and ropes and I would go.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




I have some Sportiva Tarantulaces and they are getting pretty slippery. Three months old or so. How do I get these things sticky again?

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


What have you possibly done to make climbing shoes not sticky?

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Mons Hubris posted:

I have some Sportiva Tarantulaces and they are getting pretty slippery. Three months old or so. How do I get these things sticky again?

Wash the rubber with soapy water, should being them right up again, or if you need too give them a very light go with some coarse sandpaper, just enough to restore the deep black they should be.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




henne posted:

What have you possibly done to make climbing shoes not sticky?

I think chalk may just be gummed in the toe part. I'll try washing them, just wanted to make sure that wouldn't hurt it somehow, thanks.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


Megabound posted:

Wash the rubber with soapy water, should being them right up again, or if you need too give them a very light go with some coarse sandpaper, just enough to restore the deep black they should be.

this, or for a quick fix if you're at the crag/gym you can just vigorously rub the toes of the shoes together to expose that sweet, sweet virgin rubber

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Guys can I share how stoked I am for this season? My first rope and lead rack just got here (26th birthday present to myself) and it's finally warm enough to hit the rock outside. Easter weekend is gonna be radical, no more gym stank for me! :woop:

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Rime posted:

Guys can I share how stoked I am for this season? My first rope and lead rack just got here (26th birthday present to myself) and it's finally warm enough to hit the rock outside. Easter weekend is gonna be radical, no more gym stank for me! :woop:

What did you get? Outside is the best.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011





Infinity Dry 9.5 60m
5x Element 12cm
3x sling for alpine draws.

Need more draws for trad multipitching later this summer, but I'm covered for the spring. The action on these is waaay smoother in the hand than my buddies BD draws.

This rope is the nicest I've ever used, it feels like it was made by elves. :3:

Rime fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Mar 9, 2016

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Rime posted:

This rope is the nicest I've ever used, it feels like it was made by elves. :3
Please don't tell me that. I've been trying to not buy this rope for a while now.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

SeaborneClink posted:

Please don't tell me that. I've been trying to not buy this rope for a while now.

EMS has the 60M for $220 and you can get 20% off that with a coupon. I went with something a little thicker but I looked long and hard at that one. http://www.ems.com/mammut-infinity-dry-9.5-mm-x-60-m-climbing-rope/1313359.html#prefn1=brand&prefv1=MAMMUT&start=4

In other news I lead some sport routes for the first time today. I also took my first fall and bailed on my first route. All in all a beautiful day outside. Sadly between work and a vacation it will be 6 weeks before I can do it again. If I'm lucky I might be able to squeeze in a few trips to the gym.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

SeaborneClink posted:

Please don't tell me that. I've been trying to not buy this rope for a while now.

I bought the 70m version of this rope for my El Potrero Chico trip. It is a pretty great rope.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Niyqor posted:

I bought the 70m version of this rope for my El Potrero Chico trip. It is a pretty great rope.

Stoppppp :bang: I have a $250 gift card I purposefully buried while moving, set aside for this exact purchase.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



As an owner of the 70m infinity dry, I can confirm it is sex. In dynamic rope form.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

As an owner of the 70m infinity dry, I can confirm it is sex. In dynamic rope form.

Agreed, that 30'er I took on pitch three with it made me have some confidence in it. Feeds smooth as hell too (granted it was brand new).

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


Always been really impressed with mammut ropes and how they hold up to life as a working rope at smith. The grit is bad enough we used steel carabiners because we'd go through aluminum ones too quick and mammut ropes usually held up.

e: get a 70m rope if you buy a rope

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

80m is the new hotness.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


I'd really prefer the blue, but REI only has the green. I'm of half a mind to order from another vendor and use the REI gift card for something else :homebrew:

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


It's happening, I bought my first piece of trad gear today. In a few short months I'll grow a potbelly and beard and my transformation will be complete.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


turevidar posted:

It's happening, I bought my first piece of trad gear today. In a few short months I'll grow a potbelly and beard and my transformation will be complete.

may I interest you in a pair of Keens and some spring/summer 2016 white tube socks

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



tortilla_chip posted:

80m is the new hotness.

I would like to see sport routes really not be developed beyond 34m but not sure I will get my wish. I don't want to buy an 80 or carry around 2 ropes to rap with.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


turevidar posted:

It's happening, I bought my first piece of trad gear today. In a few short months I'll grow a potbelly and beard and my transformation will be complete.

One of us! One of us!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



The real question is how do you just buy one piece?

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

The real question is how do you just buy one piece?

Budgeting, dude. Trad is expensive. :(

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Save me jeebus posted:

Budgeting, dude. Trad is expensive. :(

Yeah true, I went there other way though and just got a whole rack.

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