Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Well, I bought my first, and four more. One of those BD cam bundles was on sale for 25% off. I'm happy to build a rack slowly. Climbing gear goes on sale a couple of times a year, it's silly to pay full price for anything.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Just so you guys know there are sites that you can sign up if you work at gyms or anything relating to outdoor industry that give stupid discounts on different gear. Had one while working at a zip line and for some reason they gave me discounts on climbing gear. I now own a double rack.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Yes, pro deals are sweet.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Alternatively you can find friends who wear your size with pro deals. A buddy of mine gets sweet BD discounts for being an admin on mountain project of all places.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Trad_climbing.jpg


E: phone-posting

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011



Yo salt lake people, gonna be in salt lake for two weeks starting Monday. Unsure of my schedule right now, but anyone have gym recommendations or possibly willing to Boulder somewhere on a weekend?

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

Front > Momentum


We've been getting some storm cycles but depending on the weather usually one of Joes, LCC, or Castle Rocks is typically in.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


Ubiquitus posted:

Yo salt lake people, gonna be in salt lake for two weeks starting Monday. Unsure of my schedule right now, but anyone have gym recommendations or possibly willing to Boulder somewhere on a weekend?

go to joe's

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Someone recommend me some new shoes. My first and current pair of shoes, Evolv Defy's are stretching out a bit too much and I keep slipping on holds with them. I do bouldering and top roping but mostly bouldering. I would say about 75% of the gym is overhang and the rest is vertical. I climb mostly V3's at the moment. Would something like the La Sportiva Solutions be too aggressive/advanced for me? I don't want to spend $150 on shoes and have them be destroyed in a month due to my sloppy footwork.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Favorite gym/trad shoe. 5.10 mocc

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



I'd go for sportiva pythons over solutions for indoor climbing. Get them small though, they stretch a lot.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Partial Octopus posted:

Would something like the La Sportiva Solutions be too aggressive/advanced for me? I don't want to spend $150 on shoes and have them be destroyed in a month due to my sloppy footwork.

I bought a pair of Solutions 3 weeks ago, I've been climbing for a little over a year and my previous pair were 5.10 Pink Anasazi that were very loosely fit.

After a very painful break-in I'm in love with them. The shape of the shoe itself demands good foot technique, and punishes sloppy positioning quickly. You'll also be in so much discomfort for the first couple weeks that you'll have no choice but to do very light footwork.

I thoroughly recommend at least trying a pair on, I don't think there's a graduating point that you need to wait for to get into technical shoes.

Megabound fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Mar 17, 2016

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



jackchaos posted:

Favorite gym/trad shoe. 5.10 mocc

I would not think of this shoe for 75%+ bouldering on overhung problems. Maybe I am wrong though.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


spwrozek posted:

I would not think of this shoe for 75%+ bouldering on overhung problems. Maybe I am wrong though.

No, you're right. That's the only situation in which you're really hurting for more precision. Maybe high effort small edging as well. But whatever. Mocs kick rear end.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Megabound posted:

I bought a pair of Solutions 3 weeks ago, I've been climbing for a little over a year and my previous pair were 5.10 Pink Anasazi that were very loosely fit.

After a very painful break-in I'm in love with them. The shape of the shoe itself demands good foot technique, and punishes sloppy positioning quickly. You'll also be in so much discomfort for the first couple weeks that you'll have no choice but to do very light footwork.

I thoroughly recommend at least trying a pair on, I don't think there's a graduating point that you need to wait for to get into technical shoes.

How much did you downsize? I wear an 41/42 street shoe and could only fit into a 40.5 without extreme pain. I tried the Miura VS and the 40.5 in that was even worse. I have somewhat wide feet but not super wide or anything.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


spwrozek posted:

I would not think of this shoe for 75%+ bouldering on overhung problems. Maybe I am wrong though.

Forces you to toe harder, which is fine by me. Better foot work= better climber. Only downside is if the problem forces an aggressive heel hook. I just get them a half size smaller then my ones I use for trad so they stay on better. Also they are cheap!

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Partial Octopus posted:

How much did you downsize? I wear an 41/42 street shoe and could only fit into a 40.5 without extreme pain. I tried the Miura VS and the 40.5 in that was even worse. I have somewhat wide feet but not super wide or anything.

44 street to 42.5. La Sportiva size large in general. I tried a 43 but it had quite a bit of slop in the heel. Now that they're breaking in I kind of wish I went a half size smaller again. Seeing as it's unlined leather there's a lot of stretch in them, a half-size at least.

If you do end up getting solutions you're only going to get a wall or two out the first time you put them on, and in some pretty bad pain. The three other people I know who own them had the same issue, and you'll probably think you've done yourself a disservice with sizing down so far. I ended up warming up in my old shoes until my feet got sweaty, then switched over as the moisture helps the leather expand.

E: I'm climbing twice to three times a week currently, focusing on bouldering and overhung problems and it's only taken 3 sessions to get them comfortable enough where I'm thinking about technique and not pain, but they'll take another week or two for me to learn how to use them correctly. There's a world of difference between highly technical shoes and non.

Megabound fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Mar 18, 2016

Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


Attention DMV climbing goons, I made a space on Slack for climbers to get together around the various climbing spots of the DMV (also for daytrip planning). Let me know if you want to get in on it and I'll shoot you an invite.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


spwrozek posted:

I would not think of this shoe for 75%+ bouldering on overhung problems. Maybe I am wrong though.

oh man i'm psyched i get to be the one to post this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlcQ3mxlNfs#t=174s

take climbing beta from sharma at your own discretion :-P

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Ugh solutions are not that uncomfortable and own performance wise.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



sharma probably can crush in flip flops most of the time.

asur
Dec 28, 2012


Tots posted:

Attention DMV climbing goons, I made a space on Slack for climbers to get together around the various climbing spots of the DMV (also for daytrip planning). Let me know if you want to get in on it and I'll shoot you an invite.

I'll take an invite. I've been looking for more people to climb outdoors with since I got back to the area.

Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


asur posted:

I'll take an invite. I've been looking for more people to climb outdoors with since I got back to the area.

PM sent. If you have any outdoor/climbing friends then get them in on it too, the more the merrier!

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

Tots posted:

Attention DMV climbing goons, I made a space on Slack for climbers to get together around the various climbing spots of the DMV (also for daytrip planning). Let me know if you want to get in on it and I'll shoot you an invite.

I'll take an invite as well, planning to get back into climbing after a minor injury break.

Also the Mid-Atlantic Climbers have a trail maintenance/bouldering event going on this Sunday at Mt. Gretna if you guys were looking to go outside this weekend.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


spwrozek posted:

sharma probably can crush in flip flops most of the time.

futura's are better. better heel cup, better toebox, better construction, better color.

whodatwhere
Aug 24, 2013



Tots posted:

Attention DMV climbing goons, I made a space on Slack for climbers to get together around the various climbing spots of the DMV (also for daytrip planning). Let me know if you want to get in on it and I'll shoot you an invite.

Yo. I have a climbing buddy that just moved to the DC area. He's not a goon but I know he's up for finding some climbers so I told him about the group and he'd like in.

Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


PM or post his email or send it to Addam1125@gmail.com

whodatwhere
Aug 24, 2013



Cool, gave him the email

benwards
Apr 9, 2007

Another youthful indiscretion


Tots posted:

Attention DMV climbing goons, I made a space on Slack for climbers to get together around the various climbing spots of the DMV (also for daytrip planning). Let me know if you want to get in on it and I'll shoot you an invite.

I'll take an invite! In Nairobi now, but back in DC in a couple of weeks, and hungry to get outside asap.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

Sharma sent Sprout in his flip flops for a warmup before onsighting the rest of the Pipe Dream cave. I hate that he is so drat pretty too.

Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


benwards posted:

I'll take an invite! In Nairobi now, but back in DC in a couple of weeks, and hungry to get outside asap.

Just shoot me your email, PM or Addam1125@gmail.com and don't forget to invite your outdoorsy friends once you get in

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Solutions are comfy for everything except standing on a foothold for more than 5 seconds. Praise be to Mythos for this sole reason.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Yos bound! Anyone around?

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Red Rocks is the best. We bouldered 7 days and I still have skin - sandstone is ridiculously friendly. I wish my tendons and muscles had help up nearly as well.

I highly recommend the new edition of the Southern Nevada bouldering guidebook, it is exhaustive and straightforward. Kraft was great, of course, but most of my favorite problems were in the canyons.

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006





Ended up getting a pair of boostics. They fit so much better than any of the la sportiva shoes I tried. Does anyone know if the boostics will stretch? I'm not sure if I should size down a bit more with them.

Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


Anyone that missed it before, DC slack for climbing and hiking: http://dmvc.herokuapp.com

I'll be putting up some fliers in the gym this week so hopefully we can get some good group climbs going.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Partial Octopus posted:

Ended up getting a pair of boostics. They fit so much better than any of the la sportiva shoes I tried. Does anyone know if the boostics will stretch? I'm not sure if I should size down a bit more with them.

My favorite shoes by far, good choice. The uppers will break in very slightly and I will probably go down a half size on my next pair just to keep a snug fit all around.

Also, enjoy multi-colored feet after climbing sessions for the next month as the excess dye rubs off.

Furious Lobster
Jun 17, 2006



Soiled Meat

A friend of mine took me to a local climbing gym and I'm pretty into it already. I'm looking for a beginner's first shoe and the main problem that I've noticed with the gym rentals so far is that my wide feet (4.3 inches) don't fit that well into really any climbing shoe. I'm looking for recommendations on good climbing shoes for wide feet.

Frosty Mossman
Feb 17, 2011

"I Guess Somebody Fixed All the Problems" -- Confused Citizen


I have pretty wide feet and I really liked 5.10 Coyotes as my first shoes. I can't seem to find them on their site anymore, though, so I'm not sure about the availability.

I currently have Scarpa Instincts, which might not be the comfortable beginner shoes you're looking for, but apparently plenty of other Scarpa shoes are nice for wider feet as well.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Siamang
Nov 15, 2003


I bought the 5.10 Rogue VCS for my first pair and they were super comfortable. I went down half a size. Currently wearing the Scarpa Instinct lace-ups, never going back to velcro. Being able to adjust with more precision helps a lot since my feet are so wide in certain spots.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply