Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Furious Lobster
Jun 17, 2006



Soiled Meat

Went with a half size smaller Scarpa Origins and while they're tight they really feel pretty nice overall; the people at my local REI were very knowledgeable and made it easy to find a good shoe.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

XIII
Feb 11, 2009




Go climb today because Jesus died for your sends

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Two unrelated things -

First, a while back I posted that mythos were super comfortable climbing shoes, and was told by someone that (basically) I'm an idiot and there are better options, like TC pros. So I got some TC pros, and I liked them, and I said as much here. I would like to add to that though. I don't think I will ever like my mythos again after climbing on them this weekend in the gunks. The lack of a rigid toe platform made my feet ache pretty fast on the wall. They are super comfortable otherwise though.

Second, I'm looking at attending a conference in Denver in July, and I'll have both weekends bordering it free to climb. What is good outside near there that I should research? 5.10 to 5.12a sport, 5.8 to easy 5.10 trad. And I suck at crack climbing but wouldn't mind getting better

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


armorer posted:

Second, I'm looking at attending a conference in Denver in July, and I'll have both weekends bordering it free to climb. What is good outside near there that I should research? 5.10 to 5.12a sport, 5.8 to easy 5.10 trad. And I suck at crack climbing but wouldn't mind getting better

Clear Creek Canyon and Boulder Canyon have exactly what you're looking for. If you can possibly get away on a weekday, I'd do that; both areas are slam packed on warm weekends. There are a few other areas that might provide a little relief from the crowds: Staunton State Park and Devil's Head come to mind.

modig
Aug 20, 2002


Bud Manstrong posted:

Clear Creek Canyon and Boulder Canyon have exactly what you're looking for. If you can possibly get away on a weekday, I'd do that; both areas are slam packed on warm weekends. There are a few other areas that might provide a little relief from the crowds: Staunton State Park and Devil's Head come to mind.

I'm old and broken, so maybe things have changed in the last year of me not climbing. But back in my day, if you showed up by 8am or so you can be there before the crowds even in the canyons you mentioned. My goto spots for 10-12a sport would be Avalon (Boulder Canyon) or Little Eiger (Clear Creek), or if you want to climb on the harder side of what you said Animal World (Boulder Canyon). Sorry I'm too lazy to do the MP links for you.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Between 7-9am you usually can get 3-4 routes in before the crowds still. Or climb from 3-dark. No crowds then either.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

I will dig into those areas a bit, thanks. A friend of mine might be out there at the same time who I could climb with, but if not I might be asking on here if anyone wants to get out for a few days. The conference attendance isn't all set yet though so I don't know exact travel dates. I think I'd be free that Monday as well, so I could avoid some crowds then.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I will be out somewhere so just let us know.

Danyull
Jan 16, 2011



I just got back from a weekend trip to Horse Pens 40 in Alabama. This was my first experience outdoor climbing and holy god drat is it much harder than anything I've ever tried in a gym. I've never really had a chance to climb actual rocks before since I'm in Florida, so it was super cool to experience. My hands are so incredibly torn up now though!

Here's some of the pictures we got while we were there:




The rest of the album if anyone's interested: http://imgur.com/a/NKFAD

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Just listened to this great pod cast. Its by kris peters, about finger strength.
https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/kris-finger-training/

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004



jackchaos posted:

Just listened to this great pod cast. Its by kris peters, about finger strength.
https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/kris-finger-training/

IMO his comments about removing weight using a pulley for hangboarding don't make much sense. he thinks it's OK to remove up to 40 lbs for a grip, but thinks if you're removing more than 40 lbs that you shouldn't be HBing. not sure where the 40 lbs threshold came from, but in my own experience, i've benefitted a lot from HBing some grips that require removing more than 40 lbs.

in particular, for 2-finger pockets and small crimps, i've removed anywhere from 50-70 lbs to condition my tendons in a controlled way. i don't often climb on pockets or thin crimps when i'm training in the gym, but will encounter these grips on outdoor trips. since they're fairly tweaky grips that are perfect for popping pulleys, i've been using the HB with a lot of weight removed to "pre-hab" my tendons so that when i do encounter one of these holds outside, i won't be afraid to go for it

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Well I am in Vegas and climbing red rocks tomorrow.... Good thing I have been training...... 5.9's here I come!

Really though it will be balls easy sport since who I am climbing with us basically at that level. Brought my rack though!

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Well I am in Vegas and climbing red rocks tomorrow.... Good thing I have been training...... 5.9's here I come!

Really though it will be balls easy sport since who I am climbing with us basically at that level. Brought my rack though!

just don't be the guy suited up with trad gear at a sport crag telling me to flake my rope after moving it ten feet.

I hear red rock trad is hella fun though.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




I saw people climbing at Red Rock last weekend and I was really jealous, it looks like so much fun

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



crazycello posted:

just don't be the guy suited up with trad gear at a sport crag telling me to flake my rope after moving it ten feet.

I hear red rock trad is hella fun though.

Yeah... I'm not that guy. :)

I sport climbed here a year ago before getting rained out the other days. It was fun and different.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Sharks Eat Bear posted:

IMO his comments about removing weight using a pulley for hangboarding don't make much sense. he thinks it's OK to remove up to 40 lbs for a grip, but thinks if you're removing more than 40 lbs that you shouldn't be HBing. not sure where the 40 lbs threshold came from, but in my own experience, i've benefitted a lot from HBing some grips that require removing more than 40 lbs.

in particular, for 2-finger pockets and small crimps, i've removed anywhere from 50-70 lbs to condition my tendons in a controlled way. i don't often climb on pockets or thin crimps when i'm training in the gym, but will encounter these grips on outdoor trips. since they're fairly tweaky grips that are perfect for popping pulleys, i've been using the HB with a lot of weight removed to "pre-hab" my tendons so that when i do encounter one of these holds outside, i won't be afraid to go for it
Usually the round about way you train two finger pockets is alternating hangs open four, front three, back three. This allows for strengthening of all the fingers also boosting the benefit of beefing up your middle fingers. Once hangs on these felt easier I moved to smaller holds. From then on when I felt confident in hanging middle two without station or injury I did.

Mr. Crow
May 22, 2008

Snap City mayor for life


Can I get some starter gear recommendations? I've been bouldering at my gym the last couple months and am wanting to final buy the rest of the basic gear to top rope, what harness and belay device (and anything else) do y'all recommend?

I plan on outdoor climbing this summer as well. Also I get really hot so if there is such a thing as a breathable harness or something??

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



The package from BD is really the best deal for harness and belay device. The rest of the gear depends on where you are climbing and how you have to setup top ropes.

Red rocks was good yesterday. Might get back out there tomorrow. Just some ready single pitch sport and trad. I really need to fall on gear sometime. I get so nervous on all of 5.5 trad.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Place a few cams in a solid spot with a clean fall, take on them. Then climb above them and take a small fall. It will do wonders for your head.

Mr. Crow
May 22, 2008

Snap City mayor for life


spwrozek posted:

The package from BD is really the best deal for harness and belay device. The rest of the gear depends on where you are climbing and how you have to setup top ropes.

Red rocks was good yesterday. Might get back out there tomorrow. Just some ready single pitch sport and trad. I really need to fall on gear sometime. I get so nervous on all of 5.5 trad.

Package from BD?

ploots
Mar 19, 2010


I think buying a Reverso or equivalent is the right way to go. If you end up sticking with climbing, you might want to do multipitch sport or trad in a year or two.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Mr. Crow posted:

Package from BD?

http://www.campsaver.com/momentum-harness-package

Although if you already have a chalk bag you can probably piece it together for cheaper.

FiestaDePantalones
May 13, 2005

Kicked in the pants by TFLC

My mega jul is amazing and I've taught multiple people to belay and lead belay on it. You can get it and the cross load guard locker for like $30 when the package is on sale.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


spwrozek posted:

Red rocks was good yesterday. Might get back out there tomorrow. Just some ready single pitch sport and trad. I really need to fall on gear sometime. I get so nervous on all of 5.5 trad.

What got me comfortable on trad was climbing on really bad bolts for a few weeks at pinnacles in cali. Also taking a good fall on a tiny tiny BD C3.

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


FiestaDePantalones posted:

My mega jul is amazing and I've taught multiple people to belay and lead belay on it. You can get it and the cross load guard locker for like $30 when the package is on sale.

Can confirm even though nearly everyone I've climbed with freaks out a bit when they see it the first time because they don't know what the gently caress. Though the wire on mine got bent, presumably from being stuffed into a bag full of gear, it doesn't affect how it works at all (unless the wire actually comes out which apparently was an issue with the earliest production run)

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Hey Western-US goons! When would you guys say is a good time to be climbing? My girlfriend and I are starting to plan a big road trip out west starting in Denver and going through Zion National Park and Yosemite. We're probably gonna shoot for late spring/early summer, but if there's a better time or if anyone has general advice then I'd love to hear it! :)

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004



Mahlertov Cocktail posted:

Hey Western-US goons! When would you guys say is a good time to be climbing? My girlfriend and I are starting to plan a big road trip out west starting in Denver and going through Zion National Park and Yosemite. We're probably gonna shoot for late spring/early summer, but if there's a better time or if anyone has general advice then I'd love to hear it! :)

Take a look at the monthly average temperatures for the places you're planning on climbing. If you're planning on hitting the desert and Yosemite, you might be better off waiting until fall for a climbing trip. But, it depends on how much the focus of the trip is climbing vs. just enjoying a road trip in general. If it's really a climbing focused trip, then your best bet is to just be opportunistic about weather and don't tie yourself to any specific itinerary.

If you do want to go during the hot weather months, think about some of the typical summer crag: Lander, Rifle, Maple, City of Rocks, Spearfish, etc.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

Top tip for trad beginners:
Sometimes you'll place gear, and it'll look rubbish. You'll want to yank on it to test it. This is fine. A good technique is to brace your thumb against the rock and pull with your fingers rather than your body weight. That way, if it pops you won't be unbalanced. Make sure you don't have your face anywhere near, because a fast moving cam does bad things to your smile.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Please tell me that's not a tooth out of your face

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Trad owns

Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


Rock Climbing: Trad is only expensive if you don't have dental

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009



Speaking of trad, semi-epic'd today on New Era. A few weeks ago, my climbing partner and I decided to do all three pitches of this climb and selected every Tuesday afternoon to accomplish this.

Every Tuesday afternoon, the weather has sucked, but we did it anyway. Today though, it actually sucked enough to start raining on Pitch 3. I was belaying from the top of Pitch 2 and the wind was gnarly enough to totally gently caress my rope management. Long story short, got the rope stuck in the crack right as the rain came in. We managed to free it after a few pulls so it wasn't so bad. It was a little cold and uncomfortable. Post-climb beers were extra delicious.

Also there was this at the summit:



TL;DR: Trad is rad, semi-epic on trad in lovely weather erryday, also,

remote control carnivore fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Apr 6, 2016

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Sharks Eat Bear posted:

Take a look at the monthly average temperatures for the places you're planning on climbing. If you're planning on hitting the desert and Yosemite, you might be better off waiting until fall for a climbing trip. But, it depends on how much the focus of the trip is climbing vs. just enjoying a road trip in general. If it's really a climbing focused trip, then your best bet is to just be opportunistic about weather and don't tie yourself to any specific itinerary.

If you do want to go during the hot weather months, think about some of the typical summer crag: Lander, Rifle, Maple, City of Rocks, Spearfish, etc.

Thanks for the advice! The focus of the trip is probably gonna be more general enjoyment than laser-focus on climbing, but since we definitely want to climb and would be near prime climbing places, it's definitely a consideration. I'll take the monthly average temps into account!

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004



Mahlertov Cocktail posted:

Thanks for the advice! The focus of the trip is probably gonna be more general enjoyment than laser-focus on climbing, but since we definitely want to climb and would be near prime climbing places, it's definitely a consideration. I'll take the monthly average temps into account!

Makes sense! Other thing to consider is that often times there are higher-elevation alternatives near major climbing areas that can be better in warmer weather, e.g. Tuolumne/Yosemite, Mt. Charleston/Red Rock.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

Did a two day trip in the Red River Gorge, KY over the last weekend. Spent most of the two days in the Miller Fork region.

Climbed at the Secret Garden crag on day 1 and most of day 2 at The Nursery. Had to drop off a friend so he could catch a ride back home and then went to Phantasia and climbed a couple routes there.

Except for a handful of routes the weekend was full of slab. Highlights included Sloppy Seconds in the Secret Garden and Count Floyd Show in Phantasia.

Climbed quite a few really fun slabby routes of ranging difficulty (5.6 to 5.11b). Overall a good weekend. Definitely hoping to get in at least one more trip before summer and possibly work some easier 12s.

Niyqor fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Apr 19, 2016

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


After my buddy and I planned an epic week-long road trip for this august, involving 10,000 cumulative feet of trad ascent over five days, I figured I should probably start training harder.

So I was working the pullup bar in my kitchen doorway and decided to do some stomach curls. At which point the bar let go and dropped me 4.5 feet onto my head.

Now I have a concussion, whiplash, and can't climb for a week. :doh:

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


Rime posted:

After my buddy and I planned an epic week-long road trip for this august, involving 10,000 cumulative feet of trad ascent over five days, I figured I should probably start training harder.

So I was working the pullup bar in my kitchen doorway and decided to do some stomach curls. At which point the bar let go and dropped me 4.5 feet onto my head.

Now I have a concussion, whiplash, and can't climb for a week. :doh:

Oh god don't do this to me, it's taken me way too long to get the confidence to start doing levers on mine.

Hope you're OK though that sounds like a lovely way to get an injury.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Sitting here pouting because I have an entire big wall rack packed and ready to go but the rain is not cooperating at all. Got a ton of aid practice in last week so we were psyched to head up our first wall this weekend. Next weekend maybe!

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Hell yeah I'm going to Font at the start of May. I'm out of shape and my pads and guide books are in another country over the sea but who cares, Fontainebleau is like the greatest playground I've ever been to and it's been years since I was there. If I'm feeling brave and strong by then I really want to get flung wildly from L'Hélicoptère:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-1Ka0W8D4Q&t=17s
So excited.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

big scary monsters posted:

Hell yeah I'm going to Font at the start of May. I'm out of shape and my pads and guide books are in another country over the sea but who cares, Fontainebleau is like the greatest playground I've ever been to and it's been years since I was there. If I'm feeling brave and strong by then I really want to get flung wildly from L'Hélicoptère:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-1Ka0W8D4Q&t=17s
So excited.

Duroxmanie is worth hunting out at Cuvier, not that I got up it.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply