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PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


I don't think most people can do anything higher than a V1 when they start anyway, unless they already had some other sort of physical training.

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Ingenium
Jan 12, 2008

THIS WAS SURELY THE WORK OF A MASTER CRIMINAL.


I have been climbing for about 3 months now and just did my first V3 a few days ago. I partially blame that on having spent weeks work on one transverse that I still can't do in one go. All the moves are relatively easy, but I just don't have the endurance yet for it.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



And really, if you did a v- whatever or 5.something in a gym who cares. The routes are graded pretty arbitrarily and going between different gyms will give you a lot of different results.

Use them for guidance at the gym so you don't jump on something stupid hard. But after that just have fun with it.

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR


I've also learned that if the routes have the name of the route setter on the card, find out about the route setter. There are a lot of stupidly-underrated routes at VE that I can't quite finish because the setter is like seven feet tall.

ultimatemike
May 10, 2005

Little Joe? Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man.


Slim Killington posted:

I've also learned that if the routes have the name of the route setter on the card, find out about the route setter. There are a lot of stupidly-underrated routes at VE that I can't quite finish because the setter is like seven feet tall.

This works the other way too. There's one setter at my gym that's like five feet tall and every move on his climbs seems to involve having to try to put my knee through the back of my neck.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:



Typh posted:

I don't suppose this was at Joe Rockhead's yesterday morning? I was there! In fact, my climbing partner's wife also did the belay course at that time (10:30 - 1:30).

It was! Except not in the morning, I was there from 6-9 :)


Slim Killington posted:

Yeah, you'll follow taped routes just like when you top-rope. You'll notice two holds (sometimes just one) that have a "V" taped under them, those are the starting position for your hands. Your feet can typically start anywhere. Routes should be marked with what's "on" or "off," meaning where you can and can't place hands and feet. "Feet all on" for example means you can put your foot on any hold. "Feet natural" means you can use the tape for your route OR the natural fake rock face for footholds. This all applies to top-roping too, there are usually little cards on the wall with that info on it.

I rainbow a lot (using different taped holds than your route) to complete boulder routes because I'm so bad at them, so don't feel like you can't do that. I'd rather rainbow once or twice than not get off the ground.

Also re: Jello arms, remember to shake the folic acid out of your arms between climbs. Put your hands in the air and wave 'em like you just don't care.

Good stuff to know, now I can approach the bouldering wall with a bit more confidence! :D

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Slim Killington posted:


As a new climber I'd expect you to do a 5.6 no sweat, but it would be months before you'd want to try a V6.

Most people will never get to V6 :)

poo poo gets way hard super quickly

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR


Hey, I said "try!"

skudmunky
Apr 28, 2010


TotallyUnoriginal posted:

Most people will never get to V6 :)

poo poo gets way hard super quickly

after a year of solid 3 days per week climbing I can attempt V4s pretty well. V6 is a scary number.

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR


I tried an indoor V6 after a few months when I got confident. I didn't make it far, but I still tried.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



I sent a V6 (hammerhead at HP40) after about 18 months of climbing. A couple of years later, it got downgraded to V5.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



I eat V6s for breakfast.

Well...I used to :(

Grisly Grotto
Jun 17, 2003

Are sure you should fight tonight? You don't look well.


I can do about half the v2s in my gym... can't even get off the ground on v4 and up :(

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Woo just won best setter for a ccs comp here in San Luis Obispo. For those saying you won't climb harder then a 6. You are already limiting yourself in a game that shouldn't be about numbers. Different setters have different styles and some times you climb other routes better then most. Its all finding what you like to climb most and what your not good at ie crimps, then rounding out the edges. Climbing is very much so a you sport. When it is game time it comes down to you and the wall. How much you put in is how much you get! As much as it pains me to say power of positive attitude really helps. So please don't look at a rating and say "oh I can never do that" because who knows it may be your style and you could crush it. Also bouldering gym ratings suck I know that my gym is generally harder then most California gyms. So don't take them to serious.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Do any of you guys use a weight vest? I just bought one but it hasn't arrived yet. I am in an odd spot with my climbing at the gym and I've been finding it hard to progress. Basically I can send all the top rope 11s, most of the time flashing new ones that they put up. I can only send one or two of the top roped 12s that are up at any time (the variation in 12s at my gym is absurd.) I'd like to be leading a lot more but I don't have any regular lead partners. On days when I can lead, all is well and there is plenty to challenge me, but on days when I am top roping I get kind of bored with my options. I am hoping that the vest will let me get more out of the 10s and 11s, and build up more strength on those days when I am otherwise just kind of coasting.

Does anyone use one and have any advice for me? I am planning to put 10 pounds in it and climb with that for a few weeks before adding any weight. The last thing I want to do is injure myself by getting overzealous.

modig
Aug 20, 2002


Got an indoor V7 boulder problem I've been working on for a 3-4 climbing days, I'm pretty happy about it. For Movement goons its the pink tape with the big red sphere are the end.

armorer posted:

Does anyone use one and have any advice for me? I am planning to put 10 pounds in it and climb with that for a few weeks before adding any weight. The last thing I want to do is injure myself by getting overzealous.
My worry with the weight vest would be increasing the chance of a tendon injury if you blow your feet on a crimpy hold. So if you use it, I would focus on climbing in control. If you blow your feet, just fall, don't try to catch all that weight, especially on smaller holds. You could also start climbing two routes in a row as another way to work on the physical side of things.

modig fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Mar 5, 2013

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



modig posted:

Got an indoor V7 boulder problem I've been working on for a 3-4 climbing days, I'm pretty happy about it. For Movement goons its the pink tape with the big red sphere are the end.

My worry with the weight vest would be increasing the chance of a tendon injury if you blow your feet on a crimpy hold. So if you use it, I would focus on climbing in control. If you blow your feet, just fall, don't try to catch all that weight, especially on smaller holds. You could also start climbing two routes in a row as another way to work on the physical side of things.

When was that? I managed that one and the pink V6 to the left of it.

I'll probably be at Movement tomorrow night if you're going to be there for additional GOON CLIMBING.

armorer posted:

Does anyone use one and have any advice for me? I am planning to put 10 pounds in it and climb with that for a few weeks before adding any weight. The last thing I want to do is injure myself by getting overzealous.
I use a weight vest pretty regularly. Mostly campus board or doing circuits on V2 and below. Basically climb four or five V2 or lower in a row. Focus on quiet feet, good core use, and downclimb everything.

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


Actually falling is one of the bigger concerns with a weight vest, anything you do with one you should always be able to do under full control, even landing on soft matting with an extra 10-15kgs on you is going to carry a very strong risk.

e: I'm talking about bouldering, I have no idea about using one with roped climbing.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Circuits on V0 through V2 seems reasonable enough, and I will be careful not to twist an ankle. I was thinking about finger and elbow tendon injuries from strain, not really about falling so that is a good point. I don't plan on going to up to "10-15 kg" for a while, although the vest I got will hold that much if I want. I'm planning to start with 10lbs and see how it affects my climbing on some easier routes that I know pretty well already. If that goes well for two weeks or so, then I will probably go up to 20lbs and stay there for the next couple months. I'd like to be in better leading shape by late spring / early summer. If anyone is curious, I'll try to post back about the vest and any progress I've made in a few months.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



armorer posted:

Circuits on V0 through V2 seems reasonable enough, and I will be careful not to twist an ankle. I was thinking about finger and elbow tendon injuries from strain, not really about falling so that is a good point. I don't plan on going to up to "10-15 kg" for a while, although the vest I got will hold that much if I want. I'm planning to start with 10lbs and see how it affects my climbing on some easier routes that I know pretty well already. If that goes well for two weeks or so, then I will probably go up to 20lbs and stay there for the next couple months. I'd like to be in better leading shape by late spring / early summer. If anyone is curious, I'll try to post back about the vest and any progress I've made in a few months.

Admittedly, the vest helped to develop a ton of power, but didn't do much for technique.

20# is what I use once a week and it makes an incredible change, particularly when circuit climbing. The V2 you did before without blinking becomes hell after one or two climbs preceding it.

modig
Aug 20, 2002


gamera009 posted:

When was that? I managed that one and the pink V6 to the left of it.

I'll probably be at Movement tomorrow night if you're going to be there for additional GOON CLIMBING.

I sent the V6 two different ways, then couldn't repeat it yesterday at lunch, which is when I climbed the 7. Today doesn't work for me but I can do nights even tho I usually climb at lunch.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Best way I've found to beat a weight best is static climbing or as slow and under control as possible. On the most over hung wall you have access to. Cave being the best option. As well as locking off for 3-5 seconds before grabbing each hold. That entails reach for the hold lock of your grip so that you are just tickling three hold, hold it there for the allotted time then grab.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



modig posted:

I sent the V6 two different ways, then couldn't repeat it yesterday at lunch, which is when I climbed the 7. Today doesn't work for me but I can do nights even tho I usually climb at lunch.

I'm in Denver during the day. :(

I usually climb Tuesday/Thursday nights at 7. Saturdays I'm there with the wife at 9am.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Normally, I don't like to make posts about sales and special events, but I figure this is probably important enough: Bentgate Mountaineering in Golden got some of the new Tenaya shoes this week: a full size run in all four styles. I'm almost 100% sure they're the first store in the Front Range, and definitely one of the first in the US to get them. I tried on all of four on Wednesday, and really liked the two velcros and I'll probably buy a Masai before the summer (I already have some pretty new velcros)- the Tatanka didn't really work for my foot, and apparently it's got a love-it-or-hate-it shape.

Also, there's going to be a shoe demo for Tenaya at one of the gyms in Boulder on the 13th, and they're supposed to be giving out coupons of some sort. I want to say it's the Boulder Rock Club, but I'm honestly not 100% sure on that.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Mar 5, 2013

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


Holy poo poo

http://www.etsy.com/listing/117918185/crimp-chimps-donkey-kong-stuffed-animal?ref=cat_gallery_10

Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~


Wow, I totally want a buffalo one. This is awesome.

Suicide Watch
Sep 8, 2009


Great, after a few uses they'll look like stuffed animals with coke habits.

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR


Wow, these are really cooŚ

quote:

$50.00

Eh, they aren't that cool.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



I wonder how they get away with selling the bags with famous characters on them without getting sued by the likes of Valve or Nintendo. :iiam:

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

gamera009 posted:

I wonder how they get away with selling the bags with famous characters on them without getting sued by the likes of Valve or Nintendo. :iiam:

It looks like they are re-purposing existing stuffed animals. There's nothing illegal about reselling a stuffed animal with some "modifications" applied to it.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

Wow, concentrating on foot work and really paying attention to my feet instead of always trying to reach has immensely improved my climbing. It's one of those things that I knew you were supposed to do, but never actually practiced. So simple, yet so effective. I was always complaining about how my 6,3" partner had the advantage (I'm 5'7") because he could reach poo poo that I couldn't, but I realised I'd revolutionised how I approached a climb when I statically completed a move he had to dyno. Obviously I'm a beginner (been climbing a few months) but it's exciting when things just click.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


ZeroDays posted:

Wow, concentrating on foot work and really paying attention to my feet instead of always trying to reach has immensely improved my climbing. It's one of those things that I knew you were supposed to do, but never actually practiced. So simple, yet so effective. I was always complaining about how my 6,3" partner had the advantage (I'm 5'7") because he could reach poo poo that I couldn't, but I realised I'd revolutionised how I approached a climb when I statically completed a move he had to dyno. Obviously I'm a beginner (been climbing a few months) but it's exciting when things just click.

This is awesome.

henne fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Mar 6, 2013

Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

ZeroDays posted:

Wow, concentrating on foot work and really paying attention to my feet instead of always trying to reach has immensely improved my climbing. It's one of those things that I knew you were supposed to do, but never actually practiced. So simple, yet so effective. I was always complaining about how my 6,3" partner had the advantage (I'm 5'7") because he could reach poo poo that I couldn't, but I realised I'd revolutionised how I approached a climb when I statically completed a move he had to dyno. Obviously I'm a beginner (been climbing a few months) but it's exciting when things just click.

Next step: start concentrating on your core/hips

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


Are there any other setters in here that have some good blogs/articles on setting mechanics and movement analysis? Trying to get better at setting specific movement that isn't body type specific and get a better understanding of the mechanics of climbing and how climbing really works. Stuff like routecrafting.

Recycle Bin
Feb 7, 2001

I'd rather be a pig than a fascist

Do any goons climb at the gym in Arcadia, CA? I'm getting back in to climbing after a way-too-long hiatus. Also, I just found out that Los Angeles is finally getting its own gym.

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009



ZeroDays posted:

Wow, concentrating on foot work and really paying attention to my feet instead of always trying to reach has immensely improved my climbing. It's one of those things that I knew you were supposed to do, but never actually practiced. So simple, yet so effective. I was always complaining about how my 6,3" partner had the advantage (I'm 5'7") because he could reach poo poo that I couldn't, but I realised I'd revolutionised how I approached a climb when I statically completed a move he had to dyno. Obviously I'm a beginner (been climbing a few months) but it's exciting when things just click.

Awesome.
I've been climbing 4 years and footwork is still on my "I know I'm supposed to be doing this, but..." list.
Doesn't help that I'm tall...

Anyway, I decided 2013 would be the Year of the Footwork, and indeed in the last month, I've actually been much more attentive to my footwork and :iia:
So far there hasn't been much time, so I've only had minor improvements, but it feels like I'm making progress and it feels a lot better.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


henne posted:

Are there any other setters in here that have some good blogs/articles on setting mechanics and movement analysis? Trying to get better at setting specific movement that isn't body type specific and get a better understanding of the mechanics of climbing and how climbing really works. Stuff like routecrafting.

I haven't really read anything. The closest I've gotten is having the head setter for the bay area touch stone gyms come and do a day long clinic. So if you find cool articles post them!


PS. For beginner climbers, something I wish I learned when I started. Climb with an open grip as much as possible. Kind of hard to explain. The best bet is to look up pictures.

jackchaos fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Mar 7, 2013

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



ZeroDays posted:

Wow, concentrating on foot work and really paying attention to my feet instead of always trying to reach has immensely improved my climbing. It's one of those things that I knew you were supposed to do, but never actually practiced. So simple, yet so effective. I was always complaining about how my 6,3" partner had the advantage (I'm 5'7") because he could reach poo poo that I couldn't, but I realised I'd revolutionised how I approached a climb when I statically completed a move he had to dyno. Obviously I'm a beginner (been climbing a few months) but it's exciting when things just click.

The solution to most climbing problems is to move your feet. Typically up. Then you can just keep cruising.

modig
Aug 20, 2002


henne posted:

Are there any other setters in here that have some good blogs/articles on setting mechanics and movement analysis? Trying to get better at setting specific movement that isn't body type specific and get a better understanding of the mechanics of climbing and how climbing really works. Stuff like routecrafting.

Probably not quite what you want, but a girl I used to climb with write a the Spot setting blog. She writes alot about competitions, and some about setting. http://spotsettingblog.wordpress.com/

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canvasbagfight
Aug 20, 2005
renovating. please excuse our mess.

I've recently gotten back into climbing after a 6 year hiatus. I have some Evos that have a good amount of rubber left on them from 2007, but they feel awfully slippery even after taking steel wool to them. Is there any hope or does the rubber compound just age beyond salvage? It's not just the highly polished knobs I'm slipping off. Practically everything. I literally can't trust my feet at all on anything but large shelves/jugs when I climb. While it's great for getting my arms back into the swing of things, I'm finding it hard to advance. I was climbing at the V4 level before and now I'm happy just to send a V2... Thoughts? I'm probably going to get some Miuras.

Edit: I'm retarded and meant to say Evolv Defys. Dunno where Evo came from.

canvasbagfight fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Mar 7, 2013

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