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big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Endjinneer posted:

Duroxmanie is worth hunting out at Cuvier, not that I got up it.

That looks like a fun problem! Although watching a video of it reminded me of those undercut sloper hell topouts that regular Bleausards just levitate up, but when you get there you're stuck doing your best beached whale impression while your mates who've already sent take pictures of your terrified expression.

Also is chalk allowed there now? From videos it looks like a lot of problems are fairly chalked up.

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Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Gahd dammit just had my first pulley injury :/ I was in the gym standing and using a side-cling pretty heavily, but it seemed fine until I went to finish the move and heard a pop and had to drop off the wall. Doesn't seem too bad, but I guess I won't be climbing for a little while to let it heal up :(

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


Mahlertov Cocktail posted:

Gahd dammit just had my first pulley injury :/ I was in the gym standing and using a side-cling pretty heavily, but it seemed fine until I went to finish the move and heard a pop and had to drop off the wall. Doesn't seem too bad, but I guess I won't be climbing for a little while to let it heal up :(

bummer, i just had my first one this past january

the key to pulley injuries is to not over-rest -- you need to actively rehab the tendon back to strength through very low intensity finger exercise (ideally, hangboarding with a counterweight pulley so you can remove weight; or if that's a no-go, then very light and controlled climbing). wait until any swelling and pain has subsided, usually a couple weeks, and then get on the rehab train

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Yeah, that's the plan. Is icing generally good for initial recovery? I've iced it a couple times since yesterday and it seems to help a bit.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


Mahlertov Cocktail posted:

Yeah, that's the plan. Is icing generally good for initial recovery? I've iced it a couple times since yesterday and it seems to help a bit.

tbh i don't really know. i tried reading up on it a bit and never really found totally convincing/conclusive evidence one way or the other. i think there is one school of thought that the best way to stimulate blood flow is submerging the finger in cool-but-not-ice-cold water for 20-30 minutes. i think i found some posts about it on a UK climbing message board, you could probably find the same with some googling

for me, it felt good and certainly didn't seem to be doing any harm, so i kept icing for the first week or so after the injury

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



BD just recalled a bunch of cams. Going to have to check mine when I get home...

whodatwhere
Aug 24, 2013



spwrozek posted:

BD just recalled a bunch of cams. Going to have to check mine when I get home...

Wow, second big BD recall in a few months(other being the carabiner one). Thanks for the post, will check as well

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



It looks like it is basically the same rivet issue they had on the biners.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

It looks like it is basically the same rivet issue they had on the biners.

Shouldn't make poo poo in China.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


gamera009 posted:

Shouldn't make poo poo in China.

All of the recalled items were manufactured after they moved production back to the US.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

big scary monsters posted:

That looks like a fun problem! Although watching a video of it reminded me of those undercut sloper hell topouts that regular Bleausards just levitate up, but when you get there you're stuck doing your best beached whale impression while your mates who've already sent take pictures of your terrified expression.

Also is chalk allowed there now? From videos it looks like a lot of problems are fairly chalked up.

Yeah, chalk is everywhere. Some of the old French guys still use pof, so it helps to keep an eye on them and try their routes immediately after they walk away.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



People who still use pof should be made to eat it.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Endjinneer posted:

Yeah, chalk is everywhere. Some of the old French guys still use pof, so it helps to keep an eye on them and try their routes immediately after they walk away.
Yeah I thought that might be the case now, thanks.

Still B.A.E posted:

People who still use pof should be made to eat it.
It's pretty bad. I understand the reasons behind a chalk ban, and some places still have one (a bunch of sport areas in Germany for instance), but pof is not a good answer. Also I was buying some chalk today and mentioned I was going to Font, and got a telling off from the shop assistant about using it there...

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



turevidar posted:

All of the recalled items were manufactured after they moved production back to the US.

I stand by my sentiment regardless. :colbert:

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Completed our first big wall this last weekend on Washington Column, South Face. We freed everything 10b and below and aided everything else. Everything generally went really well except for one rope that got stuck on rappel. Really stoked on getting back out for another wall!

Some photos:

Really love this photo of pitch 5
Video: https://vid.me/s7En


The Kor Roof!


Obligatory anchor pic

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Got my first lead routes in nearly 8 months yesterday, all clean including a gnarly 23m 5.9 which had me sweating bullets due to the 10' runout between bolts near the top. Seeing my climbing partner deck 20 feet the night before during his lead course had me a bit on edge.

Didn't help that he and our third weren't leading and can't clean anchors, as they've both never climbed outdoors before. So I was leading the routes, belaying one partner, and then toproping back up to clean and rapp down. Twice the time on the wall, twice the nerve jitters for someone terrified of heights.

Also big cracked-up pillars are fun, and that mammut infinity is made by elves oh lawdy best rope ever. :woop:

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Awesome on leading and climbing outside but...

Rime posted:

Seeing my climbing partner deck 20 feet the night before during his lead course had me a bit on edge.

Ummmmm what?

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


He ran off to pair up with some girl, she fumbled the grigri, and he decked from the 5th bolt during a practice fall. Ultra cushy mats so he was fine. :shrug:

I sort of wish he'd at least had whiplash because the dipshit is proud of having walked off a decking, and spent yesterday telling me that the routes I was sweating bullets leading were "so easy" and he could totally have lead them and cleaned the anchors ( because he watched some YouTube videos) he just didn't want to because he wasn't confident in my lead belay skills. While he lead belayed me...

Now, I took the lead course with him to brush up from being rusty and because I wanted to keep an eye on the cocky dumbass before we climbed outside. I've been leading for a year and building anchors for three, and I lead and set the topropes the git was gravy climbing on all day. :argh:

Needless to say, when my actual climbing partner gets back from abroad we will not be inviting Mr. Decking on our multipitch adventures.

Rime fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Apr 19, 2016

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Hmmm that is interesting. Dropping someone on a practice fall with a grigri is impressive. I guess she was just holding the cam open the whole time?

Sounds like a not great dude. Hopefully you find some other cool people to climb with.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

Just spent the weekend climbing in Southern Illinois at Jackson Falls. It was my first time there and I got my rear end handed to me. I was struggling on grades that I typically don't have problems with. Definitely need to spend some more time there to get used to the type of climbs that are there.

Favorite route was Wild at Heart, which depending on what source you trust ranges from a 5.10d to a 5.11b. It had really great movement and features in just the right spots. That area, Railroad area, is pretty solid.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Rime posted:

He ran off to pair up with some girl, she fumbled the grigri, and he decked from the 5th bolt during a practice fall. Ultra cushy mats so he was fine. :shrug:

I sort of wish he'd at least had whiplash because the dipshit is proud of having walked off a decking, and spent yesterday telling me that the routes I was sweating bullets leading were "so easy" and he could totally have lead them and cleaned the anchors ( because he watched some YouTube videos) he just didn't want to because he wasn't confident in my lead belay skills. While he lead belayed me...

Now, I took the lead course with him to brush up from being rusty and because I wanted to keep an eye on the cocky dumbass before we climbed outside. I've been leading for a year and building anchors for three, and I lead and set the topropes the git was gravy climbing on all day. :argh:

Needless to say, when my actual climbing partner gets back from abroad we will not be inviting Mr. Decking on our multipitch adventures.

It's really hard to deck someone with a grigri. You basically have to be clamping the poo poo out of the cam and also probably holding on to the climber side of the rope. Also don't climb with cocky assholes ever.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



SplitDestiny posted:

Also don't climb with cocky assholes ever.

But...I climb with spwrozek and BudManstrong all the time!

:v:

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Get away from that dude. I wouldn't let someone with that attitude towards falls belay me.

That's a gorgeous pillar! Where is it?

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


SplitDestiny posted:

It's really hard to deck someone with a grigri. You basically have to be clamping the poo poo out of the cam and also probably holding on to the climber side of the rope. Also don't climb with cocky assholes ever.

I've seen it happen twice, and this is exactly what happened. No grip on the brake hand, panic, clamp down on the cam.

gamera009 posted:

But...I climb with spwrozek and BudManstrong all the time!

:v:

:coolfish:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


turevidar posted:

Get away from that dude. I wouldn't let someone with that attitude towards falls belay me.

That's a gorgeous pillar! Where is it?

Hah. I've known the guy for like 16 years, since grade school. He's always been an overconfident idiot when it comes to himself, but is a surprisingly attentive belayer. He's just a dick. Thankfully my best friend and regular partner is back in the country as of this week.

It's in The Pillary at Area 44, Squamish. 5 routes on it from 5.7 to a 5.10d on a bruuutal looking arrete. 44 is my favourite place to climb in the squamish area, by far. :woop:

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


Also if they were in a lead class and she didn't get called out hard the moment she started holding the grigri except for feeding a clip...

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Usually the instructor is back up belaying too. All kinds of shitiness happening there.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Actually it can be super fun climbing with cocky assholes because they are either really good and hike yosemite 5.11+ and then you get to follow hard poo poo without the fall or they struggle up 5.8 and you get to make fun of them (obviously only if they were an rear end in a top hat about it).

Speaking of which, I'm really fuckin stoked because El Cap is getting closer to be a possibility. Just need to be a little faster to make it a 3 day climb or less.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


I'd ditch that particular guy from the sound of it but attitude can be fine if you can stand it and as long as they're also competent.

My favourite climbing partner is a bit of a cocky dickhead, but he's pretty fearless and has got us up some super sketchy stuff that I'd never have touched otherwise. I also trust his ability and safety 100%: he's also a qualified and experienced instructor who I've worked with on occasion, and despite the apparent care nothing attitude in his personal climbing he's a very good and cautious teacher. Actually the only injury we've had climbing together was when I was belaying and he decked and broke a couple ribs (we were doing trad on crumbly limestone and two bits of gear out of three ripped).

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


The greatest feeling you can get in a gym or the most satisfying feeling you can get at the crag is the send. Let’s say you feel your forearms, your biceps; blood is rushing in to your muscles and you clip the chains. Your forearms get a really tight feeling like your skin is going to explode any minute and you feel weightless and it feels different, it feels fantastic. It’s as satisfying to me as cumming is, you know, as in having sex with a woman and cumming. So can you believe how much I am in heaven? I am like getting the feeling of cumming in the gym; I’m getting the feeling of cumming at the crag; I’m getting the feeling of cumming at the comp; when I get out of iso and climb in front of 50 people I get the same feeling, so I am cumming day and night. It’s terrific, right? So you know, I am in heaven.” 

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Climbing not better then sex, although sending 11C was pretty sexy, but your enthusiasm is great.

Bottomless blower powder now... That might be.

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

spwrozek posted:

Climbing not better then sex, although sending 11C was pretty sexy, but your enthusiasm is great.

Bottomless blower powder now... That might be.

Yessss get pumped. :getin:

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Took a cute girl climbing at a seaside crag on a gorgeously sunny afternoon, almost got stranded by the tide, anointed my rope in the ocean (awww yeah dry ropes), and then taught her to rappel, lead, build anchors, and had her do all of the above for the first time.

Today was a good day in climbing. :kiddo:

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Offwidths are not fun and anyone who tells you otherwise is lying.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


So I was trying double dyno's while campusing yesterday and they're really hard. Any good tips or resources out there?

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


turevidar posted:

Offwidths are not fun and anyone who tells you otherwise is lying.

Look how wrong you are.

WhoNeedsAName
Nov 30, 2013



Anyone got any advice for removing small folds in the liner fabric of shoes? I got a new pair of 5.10 Dragons a few days ago and they've developed a really irritating fold right on one of my big toes.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Try getting a warranty replacement first before you go messing with them!

WhoNeedsAName
Nov 30, 2013



French Canadian posted:

Try getting a warranty replacement first before you go messing with them!

That's what I was thinking but I was hoping that there was something simple to avoid the RMA.

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French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


The RMA ought to be simple :/

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