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WhoNeedsAName
Nov 30, 2013



French Canadian posted:

The RMA ought to be simple :/

Took them back to the store yesterday and they replaced them pretty much instantly. The only downside is that I now have to start breaking in an entirely new pair.

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Rime
Nov 2, 2011


So yesterday my climbing buddy and I bailed at the halfway point of a 10b multipitch, because the crux of the first pitch wigged me out bad and I couldn't calm down enough to do the second pitch, and she couldn't lead it. So we walked off.

Figured I just needed to zen out and spend some time on the rope hanging, getting used to free air, so I went and spent five hours on rap cleaning some routes today and listening to the ocean below me. This was a hella satisfying, highly recommend:



This evening I went to get my lead card at our gym with her, did a 10c to warm up and felt something was wrong. Couldn't get the sequence right, was freaking out on holds, got alarmed at a tiny bit of slack on the line. On top rope...

I belayed just fine for the test, but when I went up the wall I could not let go. I started shaking like a leaf and could not let go. Had to top out, anchor, and get lowered - at which point I nearly fainted from fear / adenaline. Waited twenty minutes and then did it again, managed to let go after 15 seconds, almost pissed myself. Spent the next two hours doing simulated falls but I am still wigging out on them and can't just let myself fall like an angel. Not even off the anchor ffs.

I can only assume that watching my friend of many years deck in free fall from 20 feet two weeks ago affected me way waaaay worse than I realized at the time and it had been festering in the back of my head. I am the guy with the most "give-no-shits climb like YOLO" attitude of our little group, so this is pretty embarrassing and I'm worried my acrophobia has come back with a vengeance. This puts a kink in my extreme multipitch goals for the summer. :ohdear:

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

Rime posted:

So yesterday my climbing buddy and I bailed at the halfway point of a 10b multipitch, because the crux of the first pitch wigged me out bad and I couldn't calm down enough to do the second pitch, and she couldn't lead it. So we walked off.

Figured I just needed to zen out and spend some time on the rope hanging, getting used to free air, so I went and spent five hours on rap cleaning some routes today and listening to the ocean below me. This was a hella satisfying, highly recommend:



This evening I went to get my lead card at our gym with her, did a 10c to warm up and felt something was wrong. Couldn't get the sequence right, was freaking out on holds, got alarmed at a tiny bit of slack on the line. On top rope...

I belayed just fine for the test, but when I went up the wall I could not let go. I started shaking like a leaf and could not let go. Had to top out, anchor, and get lowered - at which point I nearly fainted from fear / adenaline. Waited twenty minutes and then did it again, managed to let go after 15 seconds, almost pissed myself. Spent the next two hours doing simulated falls but I am still wigging out on them and can't just let myself fall like an angel. Not even off the anchor ffs.

I can only assume that watching my friend of many years deck in free fall from 20 feet two weeks ago affected me way waaaay worse than I realized at the time and it had been festering in the back of my head. I am the guy with the most "give-no-shits climb like YOLO" attitude of our little group, so this is pretty embarrassing and I'm worried my acrophobia has come back with a vengeance. This puts a kink in my extreme multipitch goals for the summer. :ohdear:

Oh no, that is the worst feeling. :ohdear: I hope your acrophobia doesn't come back.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Rime posted:

So yesterday my climbing buddy and I bailed at the halfway point of a 10b multipitch, because the crux of the first pitch wigged me out bad and I couldn't calm down enough to do the second pitch, and she couldn't lead it. So we walked off.

Figured I just needed to zen out and spend some time on the rope hanging, getting used to free air, so I went and spent five hours on rap cleaning some routes today and listening to the ocean below me. This was a hella satisfying, highly recommend:



This evening I went to get my lead card at our gym with her, did a 10c to warm up and felt something was wrong. Couldn't get the sequence right, was freaking out on holds, got alarmed at a tiny bit of slack on the line. On top rope...

I belayed just fine for the test, but when I went up the wall I could not let go. I started shaking like a leaf and could not let go. Had to top out, anchor, and get lowered - at which point I nearly fainted from fear / adenaline. Waited twenty minutes and then did it again, managed to let go after 15 seconds, almost pissed myself. Spent the next two hours doing simulated falls but I am still wigging out on them and can't just let myself fall like an angel. Not even off the anchor ffs.

I can only assume that watching my friend of many years deck in free fall from 20 feet two weeks ago affected me way waaaay worse than I realized at the time and it had been festering in the back of my head. I am the guy with the most "give-no-shits climb like YOLO" attitude of our little group, so this is pretty embarrassing and I'm worried my acrophobia has come back with a vengeance. This puts a kink in my extreme multipitch goals for the summer. :ohdear:

That really sucks, sorry to hear it. My experience after a bad fall of my own was that there's nothing to do apart from take it slow and work your way back towards confidence. Climb toprope, lead stuff that you couldn't fall off with both hands tied behind your back, take practice falls that are basically just slumping onto the rope, and build back towards proper falls gradually. Most important thing is having a patient belay partner who you trust and who'll encourage you to keep improving without pushing too hard too quickly. Alternatively if you're into it you could just boulder for a while just to get a bunch of time on rock without worrying about ropes and you might find much of the confidence has returned when you do finally tie in again.

Also what is going on with that orange cord in the picture? Not a criticism, I've been reading up on more esoteric friction hitches recently and am interested. It looks kinda like a French prussik on a really long loop but then there's a massive knot just at the bottom of the frame (attached to a leg loop?) and the cord looks almost as thick as the green ab rope.

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


big scary monsters posted:

That really sucks, sorry to hear it. My experience after a bad fall of my own was that there's nothing to do apart from take it slow and work your way back towards confidence. Climb toprope, lead stuff that you couldn't fall off with both hands tied behind your back, take practice falls that are basically just slumping onto the rope, and build back towards proper falls gradually. Most important thing is having a patient belay partner who you trust and who'll encourage you to keep improving without pushing too hard too quickly. Alternatively if you're into it you could just boulder for a while just to get a bunch of time on rock without worrying about ropes and you might find much of the confidence has returned when you do finally tie in again.

Also what is going on with that orange cord in the picture? Not a criticism, I've been reading up on more esoteric friction hitches recently and am interested. It looks kinda like a French prussik on a really long loop but then there's a massive knot just at the bottom of the frame (attached to a leg loop?) and the cord looks almost as thick as the green ab rope.

I'm gonna go ahead and guess that it's a double fisherman's knot, for tying two ropes together.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


There's a double fisherman's next to the carabiner which is presumably turning the cord into a loop, but the knot bottom right of frame does not look like that. Also doesn't appear to be under load, if he's leaning back with feet on the rock then it could be an overhand on a bight with a krab clipped into the leg loop maybe? But then there's also a mystery strand of cord going off frame from under the fingers which I can't figure out the source of.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Yeah I'm going out this weekend to fall as many times as my hips can bear it. All I can do, really. Just really shocked I got so mindwhacked.

That's a 6mm cordlette prussik closed with a double fisherman's and locked to the belt. There's a second one below the atc as a backup which is locked to the leg loop. The extra cord you can't figure out is just the loop for the brush so that if I drop it, it doesnt fall in the ocean. :v:

Zak2k12
Dec 23, 2008

"I looked back once to the empty place where my dream had come true. Such is the stuff."

Rime posted:

Yeah I'm going out this weekend to fall as many times as my hips can bear it. All I can do, really. Just really shocked I got so mindwhacked.

I never had a fear of heights of falling, but when I do take a couple of big whippers in a row it kind of wears on me. A few weeks ago I took two consecutive 20 foot falls while climbing my max grade, and both times I fell and swung to the side, hitting my back or my ankle when I made contact with the wall. No permanent damage, but it wasn't fun either. It made me not want to fall anymore, at all. I have taken more falls since then, but none as harsh. I guess my point is that I'd rather rebuild my confidence by climbing easier things than by falling more. On some routes, you're going to hurt yourself if you fall, there's really no avoiding it. The fear of falling by itself is a bad thing, but accepting you are going to fall and could possibly get hurt is a more complicated issue.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Yeah, I didn't end up falling this weekend. Went out friday and chilled out cleaning for hours, and then bolted my first route (restorative bolting on an old route at the crag I'm volunteering time at), and then ran a really sick new 5.7/5.9 line we'd identified.



Then I went up to Squamish and learned to lead on trad gear, sent a sick 25m crack. I didn't get the jitters once despite the route being hella vertical, and oddly found trad to be way, waaaay more relaxing than sport. Probably because if I felt iffy I could just drop a cam and keep rolling, instead of commiting to a big drop.

Being able to just layback cruise the whole drat thing was great. :haw:

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Rime posted:

Then I went up to Squamish and learned to lead on trad gear, sent a sick 25m crack. I didn't get the jitters once despite the route being hella vertical, and oddly found trad to be way, waaaay more relaxing than sport. Probably because if I felt iffy I could just drop a cam and keep rolling, instead of commiting to a big drop.

That is probably not the ideal way to think about trad vs sport. I would always rather fall on (good) bolts than gear, and it is totally unreasonable to expect that you will have a placement right in front of you on the route for gear you haven't used yet.

Runouts on trad routes are very much a thing, because you can only place gear in certain features. Bolts can go in a lot more places, and bolters will typically be sure to protect crux moves.

That said if you are climbing a parallel crack and have extra cams in that size then yes, you can slide one up with you for some peace of mind.

Either way, glad you got back out and did some climbing.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Yeah I tend to take way bigger falls on trad than sport because the best trad placements are usually the best foot/hand placements as well! I generally just double up the placements before a crux with deck potential if it pulls and you are good to go.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Time for shoe chat again. I've been wearing Instinct VS's for almost a year and love them, with one problem. If I climb hard and sweat for a couple hours, the synthetic stretchy stuff on the top rubs a raw spot on the top of my foot. It still does this a year later.

Should I just put tape over that spot when I climb and stick with these shoes since I like the fit and performance? Or does anyone have experience with a similar shoe? I really liked Pythons as well, but those seem to be getting a bit rare.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Pythons were just discontinued, they are releasing the replacement shoe next month. Solutions and futuras are pretty similar to what you're using, if you haven't tried those on yet.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Wooooo shoe chat! I'm looking to upgrade my nagos 41.5. Thing is, every single shoe I tried on has a large pressure point/hot spot on the medial side of my big toe on the first knuckle. It's been so long since I bought my nagos that I really don't remember if they had it and I just stretched them out. I tried solutions, futuras, shamans, katanas, vapor vs, miuras, and they all had it to some extent. The katanas were the most comfortable, and weirdly the 41 vapors didn't have the toe issue but instead were really tight on the lateral side. The 41.5s did, though. How much is that going to stretch out? Should I just grab some katanas and see if it goes? And it seems like the katanas will stretch more than the nagos (which already stretched a bit too much for me), anyone compared them?

Or, does anyone else have that hotspot and find a shoe that worked?

E: vapor v and katana were the least pressure-pointy there, and I am wanting a more aggressive shoe than the nago.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



Ravenfood posted:

Wooooo shoe chat! I'm looking to upgrade my nagos 41.5. Thing is, every single shoe I tried on has a large pressure point/hot spot on the medial side of my big toe on the first knuckle. It's been so long since I bought my nagos that I really don't remember if they had it and I just stretched them out. I tried solutions, futuras, shamans, katanas, vapor vs, miuras, and they all had it to some extent. The katanas were the most comfortable, and weirdly the 41 vapors didn't have the toe issue but instead were really tight on the lateral side. The 41.5s did, though. How much is that going to stretch out? Should I just grab some katanas and see if it goes? And it seems like the katanas will stretch more than the nagos (which already stretched a bit too much for me), anyone compared them?

Or, does anyone else have that hotspot and find a shoe that worked?

E: vapor v and katana were the least pressure-pointy there, and I am wanting a more aggressive shoe than the nago.

I've got that same hotspot and I'm using a pair of LaSportiva solutions. I didn't find out about it until a month or so in but right now I'm just dealing with it. Some medical tape and it's all good.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Ravenfood posted:

Wooooo shoe chat! I'm looking to upgrade my nagos 41.5. Thing is, every single shoe I tried on has a large pressure point/hot spot on the medial side of my big toe on the first knuckle. It's been so long since I bought my nagos that I really don't remember if they had it and I just stretched them out. I tried solutions, futuras, shamans, katanas, vapor vs, miuras, and they all had it to some extent. The katanas were the most comfortable, and weirdly the 41 vapors didn't have the toe issue but instead were really tight on the lateral side. The 41.5s did, though. How much is that going to stretch out? Should I just grab some katanas and see if it goes? And it seems like the katanas will stretch more than the nagos (which already stretched a bit too much for me), anyone compared them?

Or, does anyone else have that hotspot and find a shoe that worked?

E: vapor v and katana were the least pressure-pointy there, and I am wanting a more aggressive shoe than the nago.

I get that pressure spot sometimes in my Miuras, they have a great fit otherwise though I just live with it and take them off when necessary. Don't get it with my Boreal Stingmas, you could try them maybe? I used to wear Katanas too and had the problem to some extent but I bought them ultratight exclusively for bouldering so they were uncomfortable in a whole bunch of different ways.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Cool, thanks, I'll suck it up. Should I expect the nago and katana to stretch about the same as each other?

Teeter
Jul 21, 2005

Hey guys! I'm having a good time, what about you?

I realized that I lost a pair of shoes that I have never actually climbed in. It all works out though, because the pair I currently use was given to me by a friend for free.

In other news, I got on a wall for the first time in at least a year or two. Life got hectic with a new job, a new city, and everything else going on, but now I'm super close to the brand new Hollywood Boulders gym and got to check out a preview night the other day. Feels good to be back.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


crazycello in May 2014 posted:

I just did a lead course outside and am pretty solid top roping 10's in the gym. I was struggling with leading 7's outside. It's a hell of a lot harder to even realize what can be used as a hold and I haven't figured out how to transfer the skills I've learned in the gym to slab climbing.

And I just send my first 12b this weekend. Two years makes a big difference.

compton ass terry
Nov 20, 2006

Do you know where I'm from?

Dutymode posted:

Should I just put tape over that spot when I climb and stick with these shoes since I like the fit and performance? Or does anyone have experience with a similar shoe? I really liked Pythons as well, but those seem to be getting a bit rare.

My gym has a bunch of pythons on clearance (just got some last week)
I think they'd be willing to ship them to you if you paid S&H. Summit Dallas 972-231-7625

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Cool, I'll probably just wait a month and try the Skwama, though.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012



compton rear end terry posted:

My gym has a bunch of pythons on clearance (just got some last week)
I think they'd be willing to ship them to you if you paid S&H. Summit Dallas 972-231-7625

There's another goon that climbs in Dallas? What days do you climb?

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Well, went ahead and got some scarpa vapor v's. Time to break these suckers in I guess!

compton ass terry
Nov 20, 2006

Do you know where I'm from?

M. Night Skymall posted:

There's another goon that climbs in Dallas? What days do you climb?

I Boulder at their Dallas location Monday and Wednesday evenings. Been slacking / busy / traveling lately, but I'm hoping to get back to Carrollton on Fridays

magicalmako
Feb 13, 2005


Shoulder pops are scary :(

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Are there any tricks to keeping your feet on small holds when roof climbing? I've been struggling with a V2 at my gym that starts out really juggy, but then has a roof section with very tiny footholds that are pretty far away, and my feet inevitably slip off and I'm left dangling. Is it just an exercise in core strength to get them back on?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Mons Hubris posted:

Is it just an exercise in core strength?

Yes.

You actually want to keep your feet on the whole time, typically. Do crunches, leg lifts, etc at the end of every bouldering session. You'll get better at roof problems pretty fast.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Press harder with your toes than you think you might need to and keep yourself as static as possible/tighten your core during moves. It's better to use your mid section and legs to force yourself to stay on the wall than to try and catch a swing so don't be afraid to tense harder there.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012



compton rear end terry posted:

I Boulder at their Dallas location Monday and Wednesday evenings. Been slacking / busy / traveling lately, but I'm hoping to get back to Carrollton on Fridays

Whelp. I boulder Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday at Dallas and sometimes go to Carrolton on Tuesday because the Dallas location is a madhouse. Though right now I'm trying to recover from spraining my knee so all I do is sit upstairs and hangboard and do easy circuits.

Does anyone have any recommendations for hangboard workouts? I want something a bit longer, all the ones posted in the gym seem to be like 10 minute warm-up type things.

M. Night Skymall fucked around with this message at 19:39 on May 6, 2016

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


magicalmako posted:

Shoulder pops are scary :(

If it's yours read up on subluxation. Start doing preventative stuff like yesterday.

magicalmako
Feb 13, 2005


jackchaos posted:

If it's yours read up on subluxation. Start doing preventative stuff like yesterday.

Thanks! I'll get started, luckily it seems like it was something minor, my shoulder is only a little bit sore and stiff and healing nicely.

Tots
Sep 2, 2007

:frogout:


Does anyone have some good training regimens? Climbing roughly V3 V4. I have lots of trouble open handing/crimping and could probably stand to improve my footwork quite a bit.

Primpin and Pimpin
Sep 1, 2011




So, I climbed for the first time ever on Wednesday and loved it. Went again yesterday to sort out a membership with the gym and after my climbing session took a ride to REI and bought a pair of Tarantulaces. The problem?? I guess is that the bottom of the shoes seems to have whatever that slippery substance manufacturers apply before shipping product (feels about the same as the stuff on my rubber weightlifting plates). Is there anyway to remove that before climbing in them the first time? Should I even worry about it? To me, it feels as if they will just slip off everything for a bit as the rubber gets roughed up.

Also, any tips for generalized fear of falling/heights? I'm sticking solely to bouldering for now but I flashed a problem on a whim that ended with me standing on a ledge over the cave area and could not bring myself to fall off but I also could not down climb either. So, after a mild panic attack while holding myself to the wall I did a dead hang and dropped the admittedly 2 feet or so to the full floor pad below. I feel silly as hell but holy poo poo that was terrifying for a moment. And exhilarating. And I'd love to send it again just to acclimate myself to falling from that height but that probably won't be an option the next time I go since the gym will be packed and I don't want to waste people's time as I talk myself down.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




I have found the best way to get over the fear of falling with bouldering in particular is just to fall a lot. Try some moves you might not be able to finish so that if you don't make it, you're just going to fall down and you won't be stuck hanging there. Once your body learns it's not actually painful to land on a crash pad, you get over that feeling pretty fast.

On an unrelated note, has anyone here done any outdoor climbing in NC?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Your shoes are fine.

Mons Hubris posted:

On an unrelated note, has anyone here done any outdoor climbing in NC?

I am going to a wedding in Ashville in September and also want to know where to go climbing near there that is great.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Well I ask about NC because I've heard about this place called Rocky Face Park that's about an hour north of Charlotte, and supposedly it's a great place for beginners to do their first outdoor climb because there are some fairly easy routes and top rope anchors. They have a bunch of 5.10+ lead routes too, though.

Only thing is, I'd like to go with a group who has climbed outdoors before so I don't accidentally kill myself setting up the ropes wrong or something.

Business of Ferrets
Mar 2, 2008

Good to see that everything is back to normal.

No experience with NC, but trust you've checked here: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/north-carolina/105873282

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Justadae posted:

I guess is that the bottom of the shoes seems to have whatever that slippery substance manufacturers apply before shipping product (feels about the same as the stuff on my rubber weightlifting plates). Is there anyway to remove that before climbing in them the first time? Should I even worry about it? To me, it feels as if they will just slip off everything for a bit as the rubber gets roughed up.

Don't do anything to rough up your shoes, they will break in as you climb.


Does anyone have an opinion on the new shamans?

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Tots posted:

Does anyone have some good training regimens? Climbing roughly V3 V4. I have lots of trouble open handing/crimping and could probably stand to improve my footwork quite a bit.

Rock climbers training manual by the Anderson brothers has been good to me, but if you have the opportunity to join a comp team and get some coaching that would likely be your best bet.

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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



turevidar posted:

Don't do anything to rough up your shoes, they will break in as you climb.


Does anyone have an opinion on the new shamans?

Ever since evolv hosed over Mr. Nam at Butora, I basically have said "gently caress those guys." Also, they've cut a lot of corners with rand quality and uppers.

Can't speak to the new Shamans, but I stopped wearing their poo poo a while ago. I've been trying to demo a pair of the Acro extra wides from Butora though. They are supposedly the best extra wides you can get.

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