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Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


gamera009 posted:

Ever since evolv hosed over Mr. Nam at Butora, I basically have said "gently caress those guys."

What happened there? This is the first time I've heard about it.

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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



turevidar posted:

What happened there? This is the first time I've heard about it.

The short of it is that evolv ordered a batch of shoes from Mr. Nam a few years back and he shipped everything over. Unfortunately for him, someone at evolv decided that they didn't want the shoes anymore and refused to pay, despite the shoes already being on their way. Took a while to work thing out and the entire time Mr. Nam was basically out the money until he could be paid.

It got resolved (there was paperwork where evolv had already agreed to pay on shipping) but the entire soured things for obvious reasons.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Tots posted:

Does anyone have some good training regimens? Climbing roughly V3 V4. I have lots of trouble open handing/crimping and could probably stand to improve my footwork quite a bit.

Id add in weight stuff fit General fitness but in that range unless you've climbed it for over a year. Just climbing is the best training. Hours build strong tendons before you try to break them down. Focus on foot technique and climbing open hand.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I've been having some discomfort on the back of the wrist on my dominant side (left) that just won't go away. It feels almost like a bruise or dull ache, and I feel it if my wrist is flexed back like in a pushup position, or if I just hang on that hand. I don't think it's a traumatic injury. Nothing is sore to the touch, but it can ache for up to a day after climbing hard. My hand can feel weak, but I did a squeeze test, and that side is still much stronger than my off-hand. Anyone else had something like this before? I'm hoping it's an imbalance issue and I can find some decent opposition exercises that will clear it up.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

Sounds like a TFCC issue... good luck!

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


It doesn't seem to match the symptoms for a TFCC problem, based on a quick search. It's more radial side, no pain toward the pinky, and I cannot find any sensitive spots with aggressive massage. The closest I can find to recreating the discomfort is pulling on my thumb as hard as I can while keeping it relaxed. I can also get discomfort riding a bicycle, or especially operating the clutch on a motorcycle in stop and go traffic.

Edit: this is where it aches-

Dutymode fucked around with this message at 21:13 on May 10, 2016

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.

Nap Ghost

Dutymode posted:

It doesn't seem to match the symptoms for a TFCC problem, based on a quick search. It's more radial side, no pain toward the pinky, and I cannot find any sensitive spots with aggressive massage. The closest I can find to recreating the discomfort is pulling on my thumb as hard as I can while keeping it relaxed. I can also get discomfort riding a bicycle, or especially operating the clutch on a motorcycle in stop and go traffic.

Edit: this is where it aches-



Might be de Quervain's tenosynovitis or Intersection syndrome.

Discomancer
Aug 31, 2001

I'm on a cupcake caper!

Dutymode posted:

It doesn't seem to match the symptoms for a TFCC problem, based on a quick search. It's more radial side, no pain toward the pinky, and I cannot find any sensitive spots with aggressive massage. The closest I can find to recreating the discomfort is pulling on my thumb as hard as I can while keeping it relaxed. I can also get discomfort riding a bicycle, or especially operating the clutch on a motorcycle in stop and go traffic.

Edit: this is where it aches-



TFCC problems would be on the ulnar side. It can be a ton of different things that all have similar symptoms, so you should go see an orthopedic doctor that specifically knows climbing injuries, it is not worth it to try to self diagnose or just "inject some cortisone and hope it goes away".

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Went to an ortho, he said it's over use/repetitive injury, maybe a sprain, at the base of my thumb. Based on evaluation he says there aren't any fractures or torn ligaments. He said he could do an MRI, but he doesn't think it would really show anything. He gave me a PT script if I want to try it, but he said his suggestion would just be some immobilization and rest, then ease into activity again, and mostly just listening to my body and taking a break if it's getting sore.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.

Nap Ghost

Amazon carries some decent thumb spica splints, which would help.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


I changed shoes (futuras->pythons) and now my feet are blowing off everything. It'll look and feel like a good placement until I weight it or am halfway through a move and it skates off. I miss my old shoes

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

If they're brand spanking new, they might just need a bit of use to wear on the rubber a bit. If you've used them a few times though then that's not it.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


Two short days outside and 3 gym sessions so not brand new but not broken in fully. I wish they still made the no-edge slipper, though I really should have replaced my futura's with an identical pair. They were stolen right before a trip and I needed something I could buy on the way out of town

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



I quit my job to climb for two months. May the crag have mercy on my hands.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Rime posted:

I quit my job to climb for two months. May the crag have mercy on my hands.

I'm jealous. I'd be really interested to hear how it goes too, I've got an opportunity to switch to working 100% remotely in a few months and I'm considering buying a van and becoming basically a full time climbing bum until the contract runs out.

e: Well, not really full time. I'd want to do MTB or skiing too as the season allows.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



It's no big plans. Work wanted to put me on permanent graveyards, I told them $6k was enough to survive on and to pound sand. Now I climb till mid September, when I'll have to think about getting a job or living in my Forester.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I got caught in the pouring rain on pitch two today. Always fun to rap the in the rain and hike out from there.

Yesterday we climbed in a crazy dense fog. that was some cool poo poo I don't get very often in Colorado.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Perfectly sunny and the crowds were out in force last weekend in yosemite but we still managed to get ~20 pitches of climbing in so it was a good weekend

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Denver climber goons - I mentioned I'll be out there in July. I am looking into rental cars now. And I was wondering if I need something specific for access to any of the climbing areas, or if I'll be okay with a cheap economy rental of some sort. Do I need AWD and good ground clearance?

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


armorer posted:

Denver climber goons - I mentioned I'll be out there in July. I am looking into rental cars now. And I was wondering if I need something specific for access to any of the climbing areas, or if I'll be okay with a cheap economy rental of some sort. Do I need AWD and good ground clearance?

Nope. You're good with whatever.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup




Just signed up for a Meetup to go outdoor toproping for the first time at Pilot Mountain in NC next month. Quote this post when I fall off a mountain.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Bud Manstrong posted:

Nope. You're good with whatever.

Awesome, thanks.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

Mons Hubris posted:

Just signed up for a Meetup to go outdoor toproping for the first time at Pilot Mountain in NC next month. Quote this post when I fall off a mountain.

Can't be any worse than Tinder dates on Steort's Ridge.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011



Mons Hubris posted:

Just signed up for a Meetup to go outdoor toproping for the first time at Pilot Mountain in NC next month. Quote this post when I fall off a mountain.

If you don't fall you aren't climbing, so you better hope we're quoting it.

I'm smuggling a trad rack across the Canadian border next week, because backcountry won't ship DMM here and I like saying "oh, I climb on dragons ".

Rime fucked around with this message at 19:13 on May 17, 2016

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

I got caught in the pouring rain on pitch two today. Always fun to rap the in the rain and hike out from there.

Yesterday we climbed in a crazy dense fog. that was some cool poo poo I don't get very often in Colorado.

Come down south to "Little London." May is the month of bullshit fog down here.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Has anyone climbed in Norway, specifically the Rogaland / Stavanger region? I'm heading there for a few days next week, have a guidebook on order, but wondered if anyone has any recommendations (climbing or otherwise).

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


Chris! posted:

Has anyone climbed in Norway, specifically the Rogaland / Stavanger region? I'm heading there for a few days next week, have a guidebook on order, but wondered if anyone has any recommendations (climbing or otherwise).
I haven't climbed there but visited Forsand and Preikestolen/Pulpit Rock three years ago and spent the whole time wishing I'd brought my climbing shoes, the place is amazing. Standing on the edge of Pulpit Rock was the first time I got shaky knees from heights!

toiletbrush fucked around with this message at 19:21 on May 23, 2016

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

toiletbrush posted:

I haven't climbed there but visited Forsand and Preikestolen/Pulpit Rock three years ago and spent the whole time wishing I'd brought my climbing shoes, the place is amazing. Standing on the edge of Pulpit Rock was the first time I got shaky knees from heights!

Thanks for the reply! We're definitely going to visit Preikestolen, how did you find the hike there and back? Any other recommendations for non-climbing things to do in the region?

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


We spent the first day kinda randomly wandering around the area - I don't know what it's like for climbing specifically but if you just want some rocky scenery to hike around you can't go wrong. Second day we hiked up from the Preikestolhytta lodge, I think we took around a couple of hours each way. You can make it a challenge if you want to, and theres a lake or two at the top if you fancy a freezing cold swim. The middle night we camped at the campsite on the road to the lodge, the other two nights we camped out in an awesome hidden derelict boathouse at the shore of a fjord on the drive back to Stavanger, but I can't find it

Sorry I can't be more helpful, neither of us had our stuff as we were just after a hike!

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Thanks for the recommendations! That all sounds great. The climbing guidebook turned up today and it looks like there's a lot of fun climbing in the area, though not many lower grades for my girlfriend.

We leave next Tuesday, I can't wait

ButtPoopPoopyyGoku3
Aug 10, 2009



is there a thing somewhere for converting different climbing grades etc? for bouldering my gym uses v0-v5 ish same as this thread but for the top rope stuff it's numbered roughly from 10-30 where <13 is probably doable for someone who's never climbed and 21+ is quite hard and 25+ is cool even to watch strangers do, which is nothing like any of the systems i've seen mentioned in this thread. I'm in Australia.

Also, I want a fairly basic shoe for like 95% indoor climbing on beginner-intermediate climbs (i've only been climbing for a few months), these are basically my options unless the gym sells some other brands too
http://www.paddypallin.com.au/equipment/climbing/rock-shoes.html
http://www.mountaindesigns.com/store/equipment/climbing-gear/shoes

Are velcro shoes considered really mediocre for climbing past a certain point? They're so much more convenient than laces cos u want to take them off between climbs, that it seems like there must be a huge snugness/toe grip advantage if people are willing to buy lace-up climbing shoes instead, but if $150+ velcro shoes exist, maybe the velcro/lace difference isn't something i need to care about yet

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

ButtPoopPoopyyGoku3 posted:

is there a thing somewhere for converting different climbing grades etc? for bouldering my gym uses v0-v5 ish same as this thread but for the top rope stuff it's numbered roughly from 10-30 where <13 is probably doable for someone who's never climbed and 21+ is quite hard and 25+ is cool even to watch strangers do, which is nothing like any of the systems i've seen mentioned in this thread. I'm in Australia.

Also, I want a fairly basic shoe for like 95% indoor climbing on beginner-intermediate climbs (i've only been climbing for a few months), these are basically my options unless the gym sells some other brands too
http://www.paddypallin.com.au/equipment/climbing/rock-shoes.html
http://www.mountaindesigns.com/store/equipment/climbing-gear/shoes

Are velcro shoes considered really mediocre for climbing past a certain point? They're so much more convenient than laces cos u want to take them off between climbs, that it seems like there must be a huge snugness/toe grip advantage if people are willing to buy lace-up climbing shoes instead, but if $150+ velcro shoes exist, maybe the velcro/lace difference isn't something i need to care about yet

This site has grade conversions including Australia: http://www.mec.ca/AST/ContentPrimary/Learn/Climbing/IntroToClimbing/ClimbingGradeConversion.jsp

Velcro shoes can be just as high-end as lace-ups, I think it just comes down to what you prefer. Personally I prefer lace-ups as I feel you can get more control over the tightness, but don't have a problem with Velcro, you can get some great Velcro shoes - whatever feels comfy, it's a good idea to try them on first though, as the shape of the shoe needs to be right for your foot shape, moreso than with normal shoes!

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



To contribute to shoe-chat:

If you have wide feet, Butora is for you. Holy gently caress.

I managed to try the Instinct VS, La Sportive Pythons, and the Acros Wide from Butora.

Across Wide were by far the most comfortable thing I have ever worn. Only downside is the incut of the heel shape makes for a pillow on my feet (my heel comes almost directly up to my ankles so I don't have "euro feet."). Rock and Resole may be able to fix that though.

All in all, if you have wide as gently caress feet and have issues finding a wide enough shoe, Butora is where it's at. Also, they're all leather and cut from good whole cuts!

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


What are euro feet? Don't google image search "euro feet."

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



stoicheian posted:

What are euro feet? Don't google image search "euro feet."

From gamera's description, i'd guess he means where your heel extends back significantly further than the back of your ankle/your Achilles tendon, so a deep heel cup would fit you better.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



stoicheian posted:

What are euro feet? Don't google image search "euro feet."

Typically fairly narrow volume with longer toes. The heel bone juts out a bit, so you have a prominent heel that scoops back to the ankle.

My heel looks like a right angle straight up to the ankle.

ButtPoopPoopyyGoku3
Aug 10, 2009



Chris! posted:

This site has grade conversions including Australia: http://www.mec.ca/AST/ContentPrimary/Learn/Climbing/IntroToClimbing/ClimbingGradeConversion.jsp

Velcro shoes can be just as high-end as lace-ups, I think it just comes down to what you prefer. Personally I prefer lace-ups as I feel you can get more control over the tightness, but don't have a problem with Velcro, you can get some great Velcro shoes - whatever feels comfy, it's a good idea to try them on first though, as the shape of the shoe needs to be right for your foot shape, moreso than with normal shoes!

Cool thanks.

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

gamera009 posted:

To contribute to shoe-chat:

If you have wide feet, Butora is for you. Holy gently caress.

I managed to try the Instinct VS, La Sportive Pythons, and the Acros Wide from Butora.

Across Wide were by far the most comfortable thing I have ever worn. Only downside is the incut of the heel shape makes for a pillow on my feet (my heel comes almost directly up to my ankles so I don't have "euro feet."). Rock and Resole may be able to fix that though.

All in all, if you have wide as gently caress feet and have issues finding a wide enough shoe, Butora is where it's at. Also, they're all leather and cut from good whole cuts!

I gave them a try and the shoe cuts into my Achilles in a way that the instinct vs doesn't been hearing great things about them though!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Red River Gorge, still good. I really need to convince my friends to get somewhere besides Muir Valley though. Next time!

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WhoNeedsAName
Nov 30, 2013



I found a bouldering area recently that has some anchor points at the top of some of the routes. Would it be a terrible idea to use one of the shorter boulders to teach someone how to clean the top of a route?

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