Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Your gym probably has screw-in hangars that the setters use to hang gear or put in temporary directionals. Ask nicely if you can use a pair for 20 minutes and teach your friend on the ground.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


While I'm impatiently waiting for my thumb to heal, I picked up some Evolv Shamans at REI. They'er super comfortable right out of the box and relatively inexpensive. My only worry is the velco straps - I have to really crank on them to get any sort of overlap. Maybe my foot is really tall or something, I guess that would explain the uncomfortable rubbing I was getting in my Instincts.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


WhoNeedsAName posted:

I found a bouldering area recently that has some anchor points at the top of some of the routes. Would it be a terrible idea to use one of the shorter boulders to teach someone how to clean the top of a route?

That would probably work out great. Alternatively, if you have an easy-ish climb with a broad belay platform, you can always top-belay your second and teach them side-by-side, then teach rappelling. As an example, I typically use Potholes to teach those skills as well as top-belaying.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/potholes/105751750

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Dutymode posted:

While I'm impatiently waiting for my thumb to heal, I picked up some Evolv Shamans at REI. They'er super comfortable right out of the box and relatively inexpensive. My only worry is the velco straps - I have to really crank on them to get any sort of overlap. Maybe my foot is really tall or something, I guess that would explain the uncomfortable rubbing I was getting in my Instincts.




I have a pair of those and they fit the same. I keep the bottom two straps relaxed all the time, they don't do anything for me and I'd rather not blow them out like I did to my muira v straps.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


WhoNeedsAName posted:

I found a bouldering area recently that has some anchor points at the top of some of the routes. Would it be a terrible idea to use one of the shorter boulders to teach someone how to clean the top of a route?

If they're fully equipped sport anchors, sure. But they may be different than anchors you see on sport climbs. A local bouldering area near me has the occasional bolt on top outs for rehearsing moves on rope, but nothing resembling sport anchors.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$



Led like a boss tonight. I've been struggling mostly mentally with sending 10b routes on lead and did my first one tonight. Right after I led an 11a.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

On a sport climbing trip in Norway, arrived last night and the airline has left all our equipment in London, as well as most of our suitable hiking boots and stuff. And can't tell us when it'll arrive, might be tomorrow or any other time within the next 2 days, we're going home Sunday. Soooo, gently caress norwegianair.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Chris! posted:

On a sport climbing trip in Norway, arrived last night and the airline has left all our equipment in London, as well as most of our suitable hiking boots and stuff. And can't tell us when it'll arrive, might be tomorrow or any other time within the next 2 days, we're going home Sunday. Soooo, gently caress norwegianair.

I'm sure there is a cap, but you might be able to go buy a bunch of climbing gear (assuming there is a nearby store) and have them pay for it. Definitely sucks big time though, even if that is an option.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Well apart from climbing we want to go hiking, and they won't refund us buying hiking boots for my girlfriend, so I doubt they'd cover new rope, harnesses and quickdraws and stuff :(

Hoping to hear some good news soon though!

Apart from the baggage issues, there's TONS of nice looking rock in the area, and Norwegians are extremely friendly!

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


If you paid your ticket with visa or mastercard, they will pay for gear I believe.

WhoNeedsAName
Nov 30, 2013



turevidar posted:

Your gym probably has screw-in hangars that the setters use to hang gear or put in temporary directionals. Ask nicely if you can use a pair for 20 minutes and teach your friend on the ground.

Thanks, I did this on Tuesday night before heading out to the bouldering area last night and practicing off the ground (the gym wouldn't let us mount them higher up which is completely understandable). It was also pretty cool to be able to take photos from half way up some of the taller boulders. I'll post some when I remember to copy them off the camera.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011




One very abused vintage motorcycles worth of trad gear. :getin:

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Rime posted:



One very abused vintage motorcycles worth of trad gear. :getin:

Nice! Now go make it less shiny! Is that a DMM nut tool?


Resole chat: I started wearing Tarifas, which take 3.5mm XSGrip. Rock and Resole doesn't seem to have 3.5mm. Anyone know a cobbler that does?

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Save me jeebus posted:

Nice! Now go make it less shiny! Is that a DMM nut tool?


Resole chat: I started wearing Tarifas, which take 3.5mm XSGrip. Rock and Resole doesn't seem to have 3.5mm. Anyone know a cobbler that does?

Is it so bad to go a smidge thicker? I think R&R does 5mm?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

gamera009 posted:

Is it so bad to go a smidge thicker? I think R&R does 5mm?

I just have R&R put on the 4 or 5 mm xs grip, whichever they have, on whatever shoes I send in for a resole. I don't think I've ever really noticed a difference if it was 1mm thicker than the original.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


gamera009 posted:

Is it so bad to go a smidge thicker? I think R&R does 5mm?

I like the feel of the 3.5mm. They can do 5mm but don't recommend it for shoes that aren't meant to have rubber that thick, since it can mess up the camber.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


R&R does 5mm for XS Edge and C4 only. I don't know of any shoe that comes with XS Grip 2 in 5mm, and the shoes I know of that use it (solution, testarossa, women's miura vs, genius, futura, stix, booster s, instinct s, furia) have soles that are 4mm or thinner.

Note that the Grip 2 rubber that R&R uses is not the same as XS Grip. The common description (and my personal experience) is that Grip 2 is a little stickier and a lot slower to wear off, but if you're really dedicated to getting the exact same rubber, you'll have to go somewhere other than R&R. Although it's not listed on his order form, Ri at New England Resoul had XS Grip in stock when I last talked with him a few months ago.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


turevidar posted:

R&R does 5mm for XS Edge and C4 only. I don't know of any shoe that comes with XS Grip 2 in 5mm, and the shoes I know of that use it (solution, testarossa, women's miura vs, genius, futura, stix, booster s, instinct s, furia) have soles that are 4mm or thinner.

Note that the Grip 2 rubber that R&R uses is not the same as XS Grip. The common description (and my personal experience) is that Grip 2 is a little stickier and a lot slower to wear off, but if you're really dedicated to getting the exact same rubber, you'll have to go somewhere other than R&R. Although it's not listed on his order form, Ri at New England Resoul had XS Grip in stock when I last talked with him a few months ago.

It does say "XS Grip" on the sole, and R&R describes it as "XS Grip2" which I think is causing the confusion. Thanks for the clarification, I didn't realize!

Fatkraken
Jun 23, 2005

Fun-time is over.

My wall is getting three new Autobelays, for a total of six, 2-3 routes on each (usually two I can do or attempt, one that's beyond me at this point). Apparently one may be going on the fabled Main Wall, previously a lead-only wall with big overhangs which I've never been on because I don't do lead climbing yet. Super excited!

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Fatkraken posted:

My wall is getting three new Autobelays, for a total of six, 2-3 routes on each (usually two I can do or attempt, one that's beyond me at this point). Apparently one may be going on the fabled Main Wall, previously a lead-only wall with big overhangs which I've never been on because I don't do lead climbing yet. Super excited!

Climbing a big overhang on autobelay sounds exciting!

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


I enjoy auto belay for a variety of reasons. No resting! I can work on endurance by climbing the same route again and again, and it let's me work on a hard move for awhile without feeling bad for my belay partner...

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


You can work endurance better by down climbing or doing laps with no break, and a partner won't lower you to the ground on each attempt on the hard move?

Trading belays on your projects is a normal and good thing. They belay you for a while, then you return the favor for them on their project. You give them encouragement and maybe some advice and everyone has a good time.

How do you find partners for outside if you're by yourself on an auto belay most of the time?

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


My gym will put people straight from the street onto an autobelay with a few minutes' instruction, such that if a family of 4 shows up, that's 4 routes being taken up as opposed to 2. I think they're a menace. Training to belay properly is as important as training to climb properly, so trading belays is Cool and Good.

I sound like an old crabby trad climber. I am OK with this.

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


The autobelays in my gym scare the bejeesus out of me: they look a million years old, the casings rattle, and they drop you 3-4 feet before the magnetics kick in which is hella unnerving every time.

I suppose the last one is great for getting over lead fall jitters, but still, ugh.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


auto belays are great for my ultimate goal of top roping indoors without having to interact with other climbers outside of something awful dot com.

Fatkraken
Jun 23, 2005

Fun-time is over.

I like my autos because my regular belay partner often fails to show up with little to no notice, for a variety of reasons (last week was car trouble, several weeks in a row was looking after a friend who was having serious life problems, other times it's traffic or being delayed at work). I like to just show up and climb, so on those weeks I'll buddy up with a random person in the gym if I can, but failing that a good variety of auto routes is a godsend. They're good for warmups before my buddy arrives too.

I also like the fact that an auto can't accidentally help me over a tough move with just a little too much up-force like a belay partner might, if I do an auto route and I stick with the hold rules then I know I've done it properly, with the best will in the world a human belayer can occasionally get a little overzealous once in a while.

plus floating down like I'm on the moon is awesome.

Frown Town
Sep 10, 2009

does not even lift
SWAG SWAG SWAG YOLO


I got some pretty good laughs out of this:

How to be a rock climber
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpZIT_I2_Oo

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


WHAT IF YOU COULD USE AN AUTOBELAY AND AN OCULUS RIFT AT THE SAME TIME???

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




crazycello posted:

WHAT IF YOU COULD USE AN AUTOBELAY AND AN OCULUS RIFT AT THE SAME TIME???

It would be cool I bet

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Fatkraken posted:

I also like the fact that an auto can't accidentally help me over a tough move with just a little too much up-force like a belay partner might, if I do an auto route and I stick with the hold rules then I know I've done it properly, with the best will in the world a human belayer can occasionally get a little overzealous once in a while.

What is all this talk of Top Rope?! Gross.

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


Anyone here got much experience with wrist injuries? Two-ish weeks ago both my wrists went painful (my right came on slowly days after climbing, my left went 'crick' on a sloper)...they feel much less painful, but still sort of 'pop' on certain slopers, and the left is quite painful if bent back. I saw a physio who said it probably wasn't serious but take a break for a month and see a specialist if it doesn't improve. Kinda gutted since I've been making amazing progress since last summer's injury stopped me climbing for 6 months.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

My wrist injury experience is limited to a climbing partner who hurt his wrist. He was out for a long (6+ month) time. I don't remember the exact injury.

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014




Sounds like inflammation to me. Maybe a tendon involved and that's "popping" as it moves over something that interferes because it or something next to it is swollen? My experience with that sort of thing boils down to resting and for longer than I want/think I need to. Have you tried NSAIDs?

Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


I had a bout of De Quervain's tenosynovitis, which is inflammation of the tendon sheath on the thumb-side of the wrist. If it's inflamed enough it will feel like a catching sensation when the wrist is going through a certain ROM. I didn't climb for about six months, but honestly that was more than necessary. Treatment for it was like most climbing injuries: rest and ice it for a couple of weeks, take an anti-inflammatory like naproxen, and then slowly work in stretching/strengthening exercises (if either of these is painful, back off), when you start back go really gentle. If it is De Quervain's stop using your thumb to do stuff on your phone.

Manstrocity fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Jun 11, 2016

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


toiletbrush posted:

Anyone here got much experience with wrist injuries? Two-ish weeks ago both my wrists went painful (my right came on slowly days after climbing, my left went 'crick' on a sloper)...they feel much less painful, but still sort of 'pop' on certain slopers, and the left is quite painful if bent back. I saw a physio who said it probably wasn't serious but take a break for a month and see a specialist if it doesn't improve. Kinda gutted since I've been making amazing progress since last summer's injury stopped me climbing for 6 months.

This founds very similar to what I've been experiencing. Right now I think it's some tendonitis and muscle imbalance. I took two or three weeks off entirely with lots of icing and a wrist brace, then a week or two doing lots of low-weight opposition exercises and stretching, and then started bouldering again, being careful not to push too hard and and reduced frequency. I had my first hard session this last week, about 6-7 weeks out, and I'll limit myself to 2 sessions a week I think until I feel 100%. It's definitely brought muscle balance and proper rest to the forefront of my schedule.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



It is 4:05 am... Yay Alpine starts and beating the crowds.


bonus RRG pics



Discomancer
Aug 31, 2001

I'm on a cupcake caper!

toiletbrush posted:

Anyone here got much experience with wrist injuries? Two-ish weeks ago both my wrists went painful (my right came on slowly days after climbing, my left went 'crick' on a sloper)...they feel much less painful, but still sort of 'pop' on certain slopers, and the left is quite painful if bent back. I saw a physio who said it probably wasn't serious but take a break for a month and see a specialist if it doesn't improve. Kinda gutted since I've been making amazing progress since last summer's injury stopped me climbing for 6 months.
Go see an ortho that is a climber, or treats a lot of climbers. Call around and ask specifically for that. A lot of orthos see "general purpose injuries" and don't understand the unique forces involved in climbing, and will either misdiagnose, or treat symptoms instead of problems by injecting a bit of cortisone or something, instead of actually fixing your problem. Tendon sheath inflammation is a common symptom for a lot of more serious problems, so it's easy to treat that and think you'll be good, then realize you still have 2 years of recovery because anti inflammatories didn't actually fix anything, just masked the issue.

Wrists are complicated, don't guess at it.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Discomancer posted:

Go see an ortho that is a climber, or treats a lot of climbers. Call around and ask specifically for that.

Not to pick on you specifically in any way, but every time I read about climbing injuries, someone suggests this. Living no where near any outdoor climbing, this just feels like telling someone they need to find a unicorn or something. In my experience, doctors have been useful for confirming nothing is torn or broken. Other than that, I feel like I'd have to fly to Denver or something if I'm actually going to find any sort of specialist.

Discomancer
Aug 31, 2001

I'm on a cupcake caper!

Dutymode posted:

Not to pick on you specifically in any way, but every time I read about climbing injuries, someone suggests this. Living no where near any outdoor climbing, this just feels like telling someone they need to find a unicorn or something. In my experience, doctors have been useful for confirming nothing is torn or broken. Other than that, I feel like I'd have to fly to Denver or something if I'm actually going to find any sort of specialist.
Well, I do live near Denver busted! Maybe you can check with your gym, or ask around there to see if anyone knows someone in the area?

I say that from first hand experience though--I spent a couple years going to orthos that didn't climb (one was a cyclist and one was a skier), and they weren't able to help because they didn't understand what was happening, or where pain was coming from. Switching to an ortho that climbed identified it in the first session, and was able to surgically correct it. But it was seriously the difference between "I don't know what's going on, here's one thing we can try" and "here's how we fix this from happening again".

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Discomancer posted:

Well, I do live near Denver busted! Maybe you can check with your gym, or ask around there to see if anyone knows someone in the area?

I say that from first hand experience though--I spent a couple years going to orthos that didn't climb (one was a cyclist and one was a skier), and they weren't able to help because they didn't understand what was happening, or where pain was coming from. Switching to an ortho that climbed identified it in the first session, and was able to surgically correct it. But it was seriously the difference between "I don't know what's going on, here's one thing we can try" and "here's how we fix this from happening again".

Actually, I'm flying into Denver in August for a hiking trip, and I'm toying with the idea of seeing someone while I'm out there. Who did you see, if you don't mind me asking?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply