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Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Electoral Surgery posted:

Anyone have experience or opinions about climbing in the southeast US? Tell me about cool places to boulder.

I have thanksgiving week off of work and I want to get out of new england.

If you don't want to do anything other than boulder, HP40 is great. Hope you like slopers.

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tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

Chattanooga is awesome.

GenericRX
Jun 29, 2013


Seconding the Chattanooga recommendation - Little Rock City is fantastic, I was there for a day last week. If you're in the area the Red is also close-ish!

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


Never been, but you might want to look into Cooper's Rock, WV and Boone, NC. Not as big as HP40 or LRC, but may be sufficient and certainly an easier drive from NE.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Sharks Eat Bear posted:

Never been, but you might want to look into Cooper's Rock, WV and Boone, NC. Not as big as HP40 or LRC, but may be sufficient and certainly an easier drive from NE.
I'm still pretty new to climbing, but Coopers is fantastic bouldering. Not sure I'd call it southeast US since its basically in Morgantown, WV, but its definitely out of NE.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


the entire south is on fire so maybe I'm not going


:(

elephants on acid
Mar 1, 2012



There is amazing bouldering at the New River Gorge, and a guidebook now too. Seriously, world class. Or if you want to make the drive, LRC is equally amazing. Neither are on fire, go!

I moved to Colorado from NC a couple years ago. That picture you posted is where I'm supposed to be climbing over Christmas. I was so excited to go back and send the old projects, hope they can get it contained soon.

elephants on acid fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Nov 18, 2016

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


LRC is amazing and also not on fire! I stopped in the gunks for two days on the way down and that seems like it was kind of a mistake - lost a lot of skin and the boulders were ok but nothing amazing.

I might stop by NRG for a day on the way home to break up the drive, thanks for the recommendation.

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

In other climbing news, Adam Ondra just did the 2nd free ascent of the Dawn Wall.

Dude is a beast.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004



This is one of the all time great climbing achievements. Definitely confirms Ondra's place alongside Sharma in the top tier of performance climbers, if there was any doubt to that.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


So if I have Dyneema cord, can I make a decent anchor by girth hitching two carabineers and then girth hitching it to my tie-in loops? I am definitely not going to climb above it, but I want something to use for setting up to rappel off. I'm still only doing single pitch climbs and will be for awhile. Am I missing something?

E:. Vvv. No reason I need to hitch the biners I guess. Thanks.

Ravenfood fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Nov 26, 2016

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Girth hitching dyneema is generally not suggested but I doubt you will have any issues using it as an anchor. Personally I like a PAS, just easier.

Business of Ferrets
Mar 2, 2008

Good to see that everything is back to normal.

Ravenfood posted:

So if I have Dyneema cord, can I make a decent anchor by girth hitching two carabineers and then girth hitching it to my tie-in loops? I am definitely not going to climb above it, but I want something to use for setting up to rappel off. I'm still only doing single pitch climbs and will be for awhile. Am I missing something?

This was discussed at a self-rescue course I attended this summer. Advice was to use nylon runners en lieu of dyneema, as nylon's higher melting point better handled the friction involved with that use. If dyneema must be used (such as in an emergency), it seems better to "basket" the sling through the tie-in loops, effectively making it redundant. Basketing is passing the whole sling through the loops, then tying together in a single knot, leaving a double strand which can rotate in the loops.

Here is my preferred rappel setup, with built-in tether. For cleaning top rope anchors, a second sling tether with locking biner will give redundancy. I don't use one, but a PAS could serve here as well.

Other options are a "cow's tail" made from a short length of dynamic climbing rope (bomber, but purpose built) or heavier (7mm+) nylon cordelette. The latter is one of my favorite, most versatile pieces of kit, awesome for anchors, rescue spiders and more.

Also, get professional training if in doubt!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Climbing a few weekends ago at Shelf.

Some 10.a


Here comes the roof...


Why is this move so big? Or why am I so short?


Hang on a throw up the heel hook!


Try, try, try, try, try...


Fall on the crazy hard mantle...


Great route just wish I could make it go down! Maybe next time. Link!

spwrozek fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Nov 27, 2016

POWELL CURES KIDS
Aug 26, 2016


Me and my girlfriend are just getting into climbing, and as broke college kids we're trying to figure out how to get the best bang for our buck in terms of gear. Are there brands we should be looking for/avoiding? At the moment we're looking at this kit for both of us, but we need shoes too, and we've got no ideas there. All we're trying to do for the immediate foreseeable future is go climbing in a nearby gym. Any hot tips? Me and my ramen budget would be eternally grateful.

asur
Dec 28, 2012


Buy the cheapest shoes you can find that fit. You are almost certainly going to trash them while learning how to climb so expensive shoes are a waste of money.

stoicheian
Aug 10, 2007


Black diamond has a similar package with harness, atc, chalk bag for $100. I'd try the harnesses and get the one I like more.

As for shoes, go cheap. I like the scarpa origin as my beater gym shoe. Hard to beat at $60.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

Ravenfood posted:

So if I have Dyneema cord, can I make a decent anchor by girth hitching two carabineers and then girth hitching it to my tie-in loops? I am definitely not going to climb above it, but I want something to use for setting up to rappel off. I'm still only doing single pitch climbs and will be for awhile. Am I missing something?

E:. Vvv. No reason I need to hitch the biners I guess. Thanks.

I do this with a sling (not a cord) all the time on sport routes when you want to "build it down" from the anchors or when doing a multi pitch abseil.
I don't know how well a cord would hold in a girth hitch. Also your krabs won't be equalised in most situations.

If you use a sling like me, consider clove hitching to the krabs, makes it easy to equalise them.

Some tips:
-the sling will sag quite low and snag on your knee which is annoying
-take it off at the end of each day because otherwise it sort of locks the belay loop in one place and so the sawing action from the leg loops when you walk isn't evenly distributed. This is thought to have contributed to an accident not so long ago http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1933713/Todd-Skinners-failed-harness-update
- as mentioned, dyneema likes to melt so don't let your rope run through it
- dyneema is not dynamic. It can fail if there's no shock absorption in the system (like a short section of climbing rope for example) http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

POWELL CURES KIDS posted:

Me and my girlfriend are just getting into climbing, and as broke college kids we're trying to figure out how to get the best bang for our buck in terms of gear. Are there brands we should be looking for/avoiding? At the moment we're looking at this kit for both of us, but we need shoes too, and we've got no ideas there. All we're trying to do for the immediate foreseeable future is go climbing in a nearby gym. Any hot tips? Me and my ramen budget would be eternally grateful.

Almost all climbing gear has to meet test standards so you'll never get something dangerous, you just pay more for additional features or Gucci kit. That looks like a decent starter pack. Everyone else is right on about shoes.
In the UK it's quite common for the college (university) club to have masses of gear to borrow, because the administrators think gear = safety ∴ lots of gear = lots of safety. If your college has a club, try them out.

forkbucket
Mar 9, 2008

Magnets are my only weakness.


I just finished reading this entire thread, so much awesome and helpful info! I bouldered for the first time the other day! I tried climbing briefly like years and years ago, but randomly saw a bouldering video that lit a spark in my brain. Brought a buddy who'd bouldered before to a local climbing gym and just hit the wall. I ended up sending a bunch of routes that I can't remember the ratings of, rainbowing some walls for the hell of it and seeing how far around the gym we could transverse before falling off towards the end of the session.

Had an absolute blast and I can't wait to hit the wall again. My buddy had an old pair of shoes that miraculously fit me, so I bought those off him for the price of a beer. Figured I'll beat those up while I learn footwork and how not to flail like an idiot before buying a fancy pair of my own!

There was one bright pink problem I just could not send no matter how hard I tried, probably due to technique and the fact that my arms were shot. Had weird dreams about that bright pink problem!

There is no point to this post at all beyond me shouting about how much fun I had, and to collectively high five each and every one of you because climbing is awesome! :hfive:

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


forkbucket posted:

I just finished reading this entire thread, so much awesome and helpful info! I bouldered for the first time the other day! I tried climbing briefly like years and years ago, but randomly saw a bouldering video that lit a spark in my brain. Brought a buddy who'd bouldered before to a local climbing gym and just hit the wall. I ended up sending a bunch of routes that I can't remember the ratings of, rainbowing some walls for the hell of it and seeing how far around the gym we could transverse before falling off towards the end of the session.

Had an absolute blast and I can't wait to hit the wall again. My buddy had an old pair of shoes that miraculously fit me, so I bought those off him for the price of a beer. Figured I'll beat those up while I learn footwork and how not to flail like an idiot before buying a fancy pair of my own!

There was one bright pink problem I just could not send no matter how hard I tried, probably due to technique and the fact that my arms were shot. Had weird dreams about that bright pink problem!

There is no point to this post at all beyond me shouting about how much fun I had, and to collectively high five each and every one of you because climbing is awesome! :hfive:

don't hold out on us link the video I wanna get my brain spark lit too :supaburn:

forkbucket
Mar 9, 2008

Magnets are my only weakness.


Electoral Surgery posted:

don't hold out on us link the video I wanna get my brain spark lit too :supaburn:

I can't remember the exact video, but it was posted by this channel and ever since their videos kept popping up on my feed like subliminal messages to go do something awesome:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYgDT9fSiAs

Edit: it may actually have been that video :v:

forkbucket fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Dec 1, 2016

Boner Pill Connoisseur
Apr 23, 2002

I took the blue pill.



asur posted:

Buy the cheapest shoes you can find that fit. You are almost certainly going to trash them while learning how to climb so expensive shoes are a waste of money.

This, and if you quit or injure yourself it's no issue to lose only 60 bucks

No one's going to judge your lovely 5.10 spires

Business of Ferrets
Mar 2, 2008

Good to see that everything is back to normal.

I love my Spires. Unlined leather was the key to fitting my wide feet. And I'm mediocre at climbing anyway so I guess they fit the bill all around!

Boner Pill Connoisseur
Apr 23, 2002

I took the blue pill.



Business of Ferrets posted:

I love my Spires. Unlined leather was the key to fitting my wide feet. And I'm mediocre at climbing anyway so I guess they fit the bill all around!

hey I'm not knocking spires, they are cheap as hell, comfortable and what they lack in durability and edging they make for in being available on my shoerack after 6 years not climbing

when I upgraded I bought a pair of mythos, aka fancy man spires

Fatkraken
Jun 23, 2005

Fun-time is over.

back at the wall tomorrow for the first time after a month off from climbing. My hands are gonna get wrecked :)

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Welp. Finally happened.

Took what I thought wasn't a bad fall working on Resonated and turns out it was bad.

Compression damage to some vert, and wrecked the erector muscles in my upper back. No idea how long I am out. I can barely get out of bed levels of painful.

gently caress.

:negative:

I was so close to finishing it too.

FML

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Sorry to hear man, hope you recover quickly and can get back to it!

RabidWeasel
Aug 4, 2007

Cultures thrive on their myths and legends...and snuggles!


A bad time for injuries at the moment it seems, 3 of the regulars at my local wall are out of action right now as well. Hope you make a good and quick recovery but I'm gonna give the obvious advice of not rushing back quicker than you should! At least it's not the middle of summer :)

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


This video is cool, I want to go to Arizona now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uj9fFRatM1E

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


Electoral Surgery posted:

This video is cool, I want to go to Arizona now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uj9fFRatM1E

Arizona is really interesting because even though it's dry and hot, there's enough elevation changes and climbing turf for seemingly year round climbing. As a Canadian, I definitely fantasize about taking advantage of the relatively cheap property and climbing down there over the winter. Retirement plans I guess.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Does anyone have good recommendations for offwidths in the CO Front Range, 5.8-5.10? (Yes, I know I can also drive to Vedauwoo, and will likely do so as it warms up). Am currently obsessed with Crack of Fear at Lumpy (.10d) and want to project it this summer. There's some stuff in the S. Platte that I know of but I don't know north of Springs very well.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

You could just go to the creek like everyone else from CO.

Angryhead
Apr 4, 2009

Don't call my name
Don't call my name
Alejandro




Fallen Rib

Started bouldering at a gym at the end of November and loving it so far. Very fun whether with friends or solo, so I've been going three times a week most weeks. Seems like my hand skin has toughened up enough not to draw blood now, so that's great.

Thinking about buying personal shoes now. Seems like the brands sold in local stores (Rock Pillars, Saltic, TRIOP, Zamberlan) are mainly sold in Eastern Europe so kinda hard for me to find reviews. Maybe I should just grab the Mad Rock Drifter's that the gym sells...

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


tortilla_chip posted:

You could just go to the creek like everyone else from CO.

A 9 hour drive seems a little excessive for training!

magicalmako
Feb 13, 2005


Trad is rad!

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




i got a finger injury climbing and i will be seeing a physio next week (and probably not climbing on it until then) but i feel like maybe describing it here will garner some useful input

its on the underside of my ring finger (right hand), between the last two digits. one of the tendons feels extremely tender and probably inflamed, but i get absolutely no pain or sensation by using the finger. the only pain is introduced when i actually poke, rub or apply pressure directly to the tendon itself. without thinking, i climbed on it on sunday and didn't further aggravate the injury. theres no loss of strength or mobility

i think ive ruled out a pulley tear, they seem to imply lack of strength or mobility, and pain in use. this almost feels like a bruise and if i couldnt literally slide the tendon around to verify thats whats hurting i might have mistaken it for that

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


Verviticus posted:

i got a finger injury climbing and i will be seeing a physio next week (and probably not climbing on it until then) but i feel like maybe describing it here will garner some useful input

its on the underside of my ring finger (right hand), between the last two digits. one of the tendons feels extremely tender and probably inflamed, but i get absolutely no pain or sensation by using the finger. the only pain is introduced when i actually poke, rub or apply pressure directly to the tendon itself. without thinking, i climbed on it on sunday and didn't further aggravate the injury. theres no loss of strength or mobility

i think ive ruled out a pulley tear, they seem to imply lack of strength or mobility, and pain in use. this almost feels like a bruise and if i couldnt literally slide the tendon around to verify thats whats hurting i might have mistaken it for that

could be a flexor tendon strain? or maybe capsulitis, if there's lots of swelling on the joint? but it's hard to say -- there are so many types of connective tissue finger injuries that climbers get. i've only personally had experience with a pulley injury, which definitely resulted in acute pain when using the finger in question.

good luck with the doctor. do you know if they're familiar with common finger injuries from climbing? i've heard of injured climbers seeing doctors who've recommended extended periods of rest (like many months), which is probably not the right course of treatment for the majority of finger injuries.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




i dont know exactly how familiar he is with the specific type of injury but i emailed him and said "hey i think it might be this or this, im not sure" and he said he'll look into it prior to the appointment. guess we'll see

i needed to talk to him about the program im using on my shoulder anyways, so this is convenient timing

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Astro Panda
Dec 21, 2012

Do you even LOTR?!


I tried climbing for the first time about 2 months ago and absolutely fell in love with it. I bought some Scarpa Origins in a size 40 soon after at MEC (Canadian REI equivalent, I'm told). They were suggested to me because I have really wide feet for a lady, and also they're just good beginner shoes. Since then, I've been climbing or bouldering about 3 times a week. I don't know if the dude at MEC sized me aggressively, but even after about 1.5 months of use, the shoes feel really tight on my big toe joint (especially the right one since it's my bigger foot). I take my shoes off between climbs, and I can mostly deal with the discomfort/pain, but I'm starting to get numbness on that toe joint that lasts for a day or more after a session. Is occasional numbness in the toes just part and parcel for wearing shoes that are "appropriately tight", or am messing around with nerves down there that I really shouldn't be messing with? I'm considering heading into MEC next week and trying to get an exchange on the shoes since the dude's advice was maybe not correct.

On another note, I really just can't believe how incredibly fun and motivating climbing is. I have Ehlers-Danlos syndrome (hypermobile type), which is a connective tissue disorder. I've dealt with subluxations and dislocations and pain and generally having things pop out of their sockets my entire life. I've been working on weightlifting for the last 4 years just to get my joints stabilised enough to lift any amount of weight, and I'm now finding myself able to do things on a climbing wall that I never in a million years would've thought possible for me (plus side, I get to abuse my flexibility on the wall like mad). Unfortunately, I think one of the flip sides is that my condition leads to pretty severe bruising when I bop my knees and, more suckily, some pretty consistent aching and inflammation in my finger tendons. It's especially bad in the morning when I wake up or when my hands are cold. It hasn't really affected my strength when climbing, it's just sort of annoying when I'm not climbing. We've been making sure to never climb two days in a row to try and reduce the ache. It's a bit of a shot in the dark, but is there anyone else in this thread that climbs and has experience with a connective tissue disorder? I may just roll into my physio's office soon and ask him for some counsel, although he may not really be familiar with climbing pains and injuries.

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