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Earl of Lavender
Jul 29, 2007

This is not my beautiful house!!

This is not my beautiful wife!!!


Pillbug

everythingWasBees posted:

So when playing some games my computer restarts suddenly, as if due to a power surge. I've eliminated overheating by monitoring the temperatures of the parts, but is there any way for sure to make sure it's the power supply and not something else? Everything's under warranty, so as long as I can figure out what's faulty I can get a replacement.

The times that I've seen this, it was because the system was trying to pull more power than the power supply could handle. What's your graphics card, and what brand and model is your power supply?

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everythingWasBees
Jan 9, 2013



Earl of Lavender posted:

The times that I've seen this, it was because the system was trying to pull more power than the power supply could handle. What's your graphics card, and what brand and model is your power supply?

MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card with a SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply .

Captain Walker
Apr 7, 2009

Mother knows best
Listen to your mother
It's a scary world out there


Is it at all possible that, during an ill-advised attempt at overclocking, my PSU could have been hosed? I replaced the motherboard and CPU, and now the machine shows signs of life (Ethernet light goes in when cable plugged in, the trick where you use a paper clip to jump the PSU seems to work) but no amount of fiddling will get the machine to boot properly. I don't want to replace the drat thing if I can avoid it. Can I avoid it?

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed

College Slice

Captain Walker posted:

Is it at all possible that, during an ill-advised attempt at overclocking, my PSU could have been hosed? I replaced the motherboard and CPU, and now the machine shows signs of life (Ethernet light goes in when cable plugged in, the trick where you use a paper clip to jump the PSU seems to work) but no amount of fiddling will get the machine to boot properly. I don't want to replace the drat thing if I can avoid it. Can I avoid it?
It's unlikely, but what power supply is it?

Captain Walker
Apr 7, 2009

Mother knows best
Listen to your mother
It's a scary world out there


Corsair TX650. For what it's worth I'm running a GeForce 660.

remember
Nov 23, 2006


everythingWasBees posted:

MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card with a SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply .

This might be stupid but make sure all your connections from the power supply to your graphics card/motherboard/CPU are connected.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed

College Slice

Captain Walker posted:

Corsair TX650. For what it's worth I'm running a GeForce 660.
That's a pretty good power supply so I don't think overclocking would hurt it, but even good power supplies can die. It could be the PSU, but if so I think it just died because you were unlucky and it wasn't related to overclocking, except in that heavier load on a failing component will cause it to finish failing sooner.

everythingWasBees
Jan 9, 2013



wangvicous posted:

This might be stupid but make sure all your connections from the power supply to your graphics card/motherboard/CPU are connected.

It's not stupid at all, especially in that you might be right. It seems to start working again for a few days everytime I unplug stuff and plug it back in so maybe there's just something wrong with the cables or something's putting stress on them.

Smoking_Dragon
Dec 12, 2001

WOE UNTO THEE

Pillbug

I'm moving to a place where I'm going to have to use Time Warner cable for my internet and want to buy the cable modem/wireless router myself. What make and model what you guys recommend? I'll probably have my computer hooked directly up to it and a handful of wireless devices (phone, iPad, game consoles). Here is what Time Warner says is compatible:

http://www.timewarnercable.com/en/e...net-modems.html

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

GIVE ME ALL YOUR FREE AGENTS

ALL OF THEM


Smoking_Dragon posted:

I'm moving to a place where I'm going to have to use Time Warner cable for my internet and want to buy the cable modem/wireless router myself. What make and model what you guys recommend? I'll probably have my computer hooked directly up to it and a handful of wireless devices (phone, iPad, game consoles). Here is what Time Warner says is compatible:

http://www.timewarnercable.com/en/e...net-modems.html

SB6141 is the standard cable modem of choice across multiple cable providers. I have one in my house (Optimum/Cablevision) and have never had a problem with it.

For routers, the goon reccomended one seems to be this:

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Arche...nk+archer+c7+v2

Smoking_Dragon
Dec 12, 2001

WOE UNTO THEE

Pillbug

chocolateTHUNDER posted:

SB6141 is the standard cable modem of choice across multiple cable providers. I have one in my house (Optimum/Cablevision) and have never had a problem with it.

For routers, the goon reccomended one seems to be this:

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Arche...nk+archer+c7+v2

Is it worth getting a cable modem/wifi router combo?

chocolateTHUNDER
Jul 19, 2008

GIVE ME ALL YOUR FREE AGENTS

ALL OF THEM


Smoking_Dragon posted:

Is it worth getting a cable modem/wifi router combo?

No.

Geoj
May 28, 2008

BITTER POOR PERSON


Smoking_Dragon posted:

I'm moving to a place where I'm going to have to use Time Warner cable for my internet and want to buy the cable modem/wireless router myself.

Just a word of warning - I had my own modem with TWC and after they pushed down a firmware update it stopped working, and refused to push the update again because "we don't support CPE."

Also Motorola's warranty on their cable modems isn't worth the paper it's printed on, when I tried to have mine replaced under warranty I ended up in a loop of "we need you to have you reset the modem, then connect to it and check the channel status." After resetting the modem and telling them none of the channels were connecting seven times and being asked to do it again I just gave up.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed

College Slice

Smoking_Dragon posted:

I'm moving to a place where I'm going to have to use Time Warner cable for my internet and want to buy the cable modem/wireless router myself. What make and model what you guys recommend? I'll probably have my computer hooked directly up to it and a handful of wireless devices (phone, iPad, game consoles). Here is what Time Warner says is compatible:

http://www.timewarnercable.com/en/e...net-modems.html
This also about the worst possible time to buy a cable modem because the switch to the new DOCSIS 3.1 cable standard is about to begin and all the models currently on the market are DOCSIS 3.0. Current models will still be supported for a few years but you won't have access to higher speed tiers. I'd just rent the modem and buy your own good Wireless-AC router.

Nintendo Kid
Aug 4, 2011

by Smythe


Is DOCSIS 3.1 what RCN is using in their 330 megabit service or is that just the high end of 3.0?

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006



Alereon posted:

This also about the worst possible time to buy a cable modem because the switch to the new DOCSIS 3.1 cable standard is about to begin and all the models currently on the market are DOCSIS 3.0. Current models will still be supported for a few years but you won't have access to higher speed tiers. I'd just rent the modem and buy your own good Wireless-AC router.

Ehhhh. I think most people in the US are still within DOCSIS 2.0 speeds, and that paying $10/mo to rent a modem that is capable of speeds far in excess of the service you can get is a bad idea compared to paying $80 for one that is going to be more than adequate for several years.

edited for clarity

sleepy gary fucked around with this message at 21:38 on May 9, 2015

kuroshi
Nov 26, 2007



Fun Shoe

Charter supplied me an Arris TM1602A, and the fee is integrated into the service fee, so even if I were to get a supported modem of my own, my rates wouldn't go down. TM1602 is a nice modem anyway, supports 16x4.

Too bad Charter isn't using upstream bonding yet, not that anyone is being given greater than 4-5Mbps anyway.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed

College Slice

Nintendo Kid posted:

Is DOCSIS 3.1 what RCN is using in their 330 megabit service or is that just the high end of 3.0?
I think that's DOCSIS 3.0, using 8 downstream channels. The DOCSIS 3.0 spec requires modems to support at least 4 channels, but there's no maximum, so carriers have been rolling out additional tiers using new modems with 8 or even 16 channels. The downside is that this is completely unsustainable, you can only support one or two subscribers with those speeds per neighborhood. This means carriers are leading with DOCSIS 3.0 to compete with fiber services, but have to rapidly transition to DOCSIS 3.1 before demand catches up. DOCSIS 3.1 is cool because channel width is dynamically adjusted with extremely fine precision, so rather than always taking up 4, 8, or even 16 channels*, you will only need a channel wide enough for what you are downloading at that moment, which will typically be far smaller than a single channel. This allows both vastly more subscribers per-node and vastly higher speeds per-subscriber. Longer-term they will replace very-low-usage devices like Set Top Boxes with DOCSIS 3.1 devices, as each of those boxes is currently wasting an entire channel.

*Technically DOCSIS does use TDMA so multiple subscribers share channels, but as you push DOCSIS 3.0 limits contention becomes a problem, especially on congested nodes. If you want to download at 150mbps on 4 channels then you will be fully monopolizing all four channels, and if any of the other uses you share with want to download your speeds will start to be reduced.

DNova posted:

Ehhhh. I think most people in the US are still within DOCSIS 2.0 speeds, and that paying $10/mo to rent a modem that is capable of speeds far in excess of the service you can get is a bad idea compared to paying $80 for one that is going to be more than adequate for several years.
I guess this depends on where you live and what speeds you subscribe to. I live in a suburban area so Comcast has been very aggressive with rollouts here, all speed tiers are DOCSIS 3.0 and I don't think they allow legacy equipment. I'm also paying for a higher speed-tier so fully expect to have to upgrade to a DOCSIS 3.1 modem sooner rather than later.

Alereon fucked around with this message at 22:49 on May 9, 2015

Geoj
May 28, 2008

BITTER POOR PERSON


Yeah, TWC was leasing me a DOCSIS 2.0 modem up until last spring and it was able to keep up with their turbo tier.

I'm sure DOCSIS 3.0 will be plenty fast on US broadband providers for years to come.

You are a nerd
Apr 9, 2003

See?

I'm looking to get a cheap external drive (1TB) to back up some non-critical stuff. I'm replacing an eight-year-old Seagate, but it seems like they've got a high failure rate these days (or is that just their SSD drives?). Who's doing the best these days?

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed

College Slice

You are a nerd posted:

I'm looking to get a cheap external drive (1TB) to back up some non-critical stuff. I'm replacing an eight-year-old Seagate, but it seems like they've got a high failure rate these days (or is that just their SSD drives?). Who's doing the best these days?
There really isn't much difference between non-Seagate drives. Western Digital's 2.5" drives don't have SATA connectors so you can't remove them and hook them up to a computer if the enclosure dies, but aside from that they're all pretty similar. Just make sure any drive you get is USB 3.0 and has an AC adapter, USB-powered drives tend not to work too well.

doctorfrog
Mar 14, 2007

Great.



Alereon posted:

Just make sure any drive you get is USB 3.0 and has an AC adapter, USB-powered drives tend not to work too well.
In what way? Not querulous, just wondering.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed

College Slice

doctorfrog posted:

In what way? Not querulous, just wondering.
They draw either exactly or somewhat more than the maximum amount of power allowed under USB 2.0, so whether they get enough power to work depends on the system. It's less important since USB 3.0 provides more power, but it's still better to get one that comes with an AC adapter so you don't have to worry about it.

You are a nerd
Apr 9, 2003

See?

A quick look suggests that there are slim pickings for drives that are all of: USB 3.0 ready, independently powered, and not Seagate. I know I've got at least two free USB 3.0 ports left on my machine so I guess I can work something out. Thanks for the advice.

doctorfrog
Mar 14, 2007

Great.



Alereon posted:

They draw either exactly or somewhat more than the maximum amount of power allowed under USB 2.0, so whether they get enough power to work depends on the system. It's less important since USB 3.0 provides more power, but it's still better to get one that comes with an AC adapter so you don't have to worry about it.

Interesting. I use a 2.5" USB 3.0 1TB WD drive as a primary backup, so that's a bit concerning. I have secondaries, but still. I guess it would be a good idea to get a powered USB 3.0 hub? My PC's power supply is decent, and only about 1.5 years old.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!






Any ideas why I could be getting lots of drive errors on my win 8.1 install? Every few days the action centre wants to restart to scan for drive errors.

Samsung ssd shows 100% fine in crystaldisk info

khy
Aug 14, 2005



My condo complex has WAY TOO MANY wifi hotspots. I suspect this is why my wifi performance sucks rear end. When I do a scan from my chromebook there are more than 30 results.

I suspect the best way to improve performance is to go dual-band and move to 5ghz. Would you guys concur?

If so, which would be better :

1) Buying an all-in-one dual band router / cable modem like the Netgear N600

2) Buying a cheap Dual-Band Router and a separate cable modem (Without routing).

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



khy posted:

My condo complex has WAY TOO MANY wifi hotspots. I suspect this is why my wifi performance sucks rear end. When I do a scan from my chromebook there are more than 30 results.

I suspect the best way to improve performance is to go dual-band and move to 5ghz. Would you guys concur?

If so, which would be better :

1) Buying an all-in-one dual band router / cable modem like the Netgear N600

2) Buying a cheap Dual-Band Router and a separate cable modem (Without routing).

The N600 I'm seeing online isn't a combo unit, but combo units are almost never as good as a separate modem and router. If there's a ton of competing 2.4ghz bands definitely switch to 5ghz, it has more channels available and fewer people are using it so far.

khy
Aug 14, 2005



Rexxed posted:

The N600 I'm seeing online isn't a combo unit, but combo units are almost never as good as a separate modem and router. If there's a ton of competing 2.4ghz bands definitely switch to 5ghz, it has more channels available and fewer people are using it so far.

Look at the C3700. I didn't realize that apparently there's a combo version and a non-combo version of the N600 and Netgear didn't think to make one like the N610 or something to make it easier to sort out.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed

College Slice

doctorfrog posted:

Interesting. I use a 2.5" USB 3.0 1TB WD drive as a primary backup, so that's a bit concerning. I have secondaries, but still. I guess it would be a good idea to get a powered USB 3.0 hub? My PC's power supply is decent, and only about 1.5 years old.
Yes, the real risk there is if another device causes your system to hit the USB current limit and shut off the USB ports, which could cause data loss if it happened during a transfer. Aside from that small chance, if it's working now for you there isn't really a need to make a change, the issue is more that the drive might not power up or detect on some systems.

Skarsnik posted:

Any ideas why I could be getting lots of drive errors on my win 8.1 install? Every few days the action centre wants to restart to scan for drive errors.
Voting RAM issues most likely. Do basic diagnostics and post a Haus thread if you need more assistance.

khy posted:

Look at the C3700. I didn't realize that apparently there's a combo version and a non-combo version of the N600 and Netgear didn't think to make one like the N610 or something to make it easier to sort out.
I would get a Wireless-AC router if you can afford it, the performance and reliability (in terms of not getting dropouts or slowdowns) is far better.

cat doter
Jul 27, 2006



gonna need more cheese...australia has a lot of crackers

Lately I've been getting audio cut outs and buzzing when I plug my TV into my video card's HDMI port. I know it's not the TV because it doesn't do it with any other devices, and I can use the onboard audio and that works fine (but it's a pain in the rear end constantly moving my speaker plug around) so I assume it's the video card's audio itself. Is there a way to test if it's faulty? I don't wanna RMA my card and find out it was something else.

It's an AMD R9 290 if that helps.

khy
Aug 14, 2005



Alereon posted:

I would get a Wireless-AC router if you can afford it, the performance and reliability (in terms of not getting dropouts or slowdowns) is far better.

The only problem I have with wireless AC is only a single device in my entire house supports it (My phone). My Chromebook, PS4, etc only support b/g/n.

I'll probably wait until ac is more widely supported and prices start falling more.

dont be mean to me
May 2, 2007

I'm interplanetary, bitch
Let's go to Mars




khy posted:

The only problem I have with wireless AC is only a single device in my entire house supports it (My phone). My Chromebook, PS4, etc only support b/g/n.

I'll probably wait until ac is more widely supported and prices start falling more.

You can probably find a router that can run multiple access points on different standards and frequencies (you'll still want to run them as exclusively WPA2+AES). This is an old DD-WRT feature, so anything with its roots there (like current Asus devices) merits special attention. This will probably require research but the Home Networking thread's a good place to start.

dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 17:01 on May 12, 2015

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed

College Slice

khy posted:

The only problem I have with wireless AC is only a single device in my entire house supports it (My phone). My Chromebook, PS4, etc only support b/g/n.

I'll probably wait until ac is more widely supported and prices start falling more.
A Wireless-AC router will offer performance improvements for Wireless-N and later devices on 5Ghz, as some of the optional features in N that really helped and were only included on better routers were made mandatory. If you're just upgrading to a cheap single-stream Wireless-N router you probably won't see as much improvement as you'd like even if you're moving to 5Ghz.

kedo
Nov 27, 2007



I have a bunch of old hard drives that I'm erasing before I either sell or recycle them (if no one wants to buy them). I'm using Disk Utility in OS X to erase 'em... which security option (zero drive or seven pass) do I need to use here?

I'm not worried about the NSA trying to pull data off my hard drive or anything, I just don't want some technically savvy schmuck who buys a drive to be able to get anything off it. Is zeroing it good enough?

e: After a bit of googling, it sounds like the technology required to pull data from a zeroed disk isn't likely to be owned by some dude on Craigslist buying an old hard drive.

kedo fucked around with this message at 23:08 on May 12, 2015

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006



A single zero pass will defeat any feasible attempt at recovery.

Elderbean
Jun 10, 2013




I have two 24 inch ultrasharps I want to mount on the wall, any suggestions for a mount?

SlayVus
Jul 10, 2009


Grimey Drawer

Elderbean posted:

I have two 24 inch ultrasharps I want to mount on the wall, any suggestions for a mount?

There are stand mounts that work for like up to three or more monitors, but they don't usually wall mount. This is what you would use though to keep them the same height.

I would personally suggest a full motion mount. Brand, I bought some rosewill's from Newegg that were good. Really though, they should all be built the same though.

Anil Dikshit
Apr 11, 2007


My wife dropped her laptop. It's fine, but her USB stick snapped off. Are there any services that are goon recommended to pull the data off it? It's 6 years of powerpoints and word docs that she's created for the courses she teaches.

I've repeatedly told her to regularly back up her data, but apparently she last did it three loving years ago. Normally, I'd just tell her 'sorry, babe', but this is career-related.

I've googled the temporary fix, but I don't solder, and we/she is willing to pay for a good service, and aren't trying for 24 hr turnaround.

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EmpyreanFlux
Mar 1, 2013

The AUDACITY! The IMPUDENCE! The unabated NERVE!


I've got two issues

1) A relative has an old laptop that was working fine up until a week ago, which is now locked into an endless boot repair loop. I failed to deal with it before and this is the second time this is happening. I had originally thought it software related since RAM passed validation and the HDD wasn't returning errors, so I eventually gave up, pulled their data and reinstalled. I thought everything was fine because it ran and booted fine through several updates, but it's apparently back to being a hunk of metal again. It's an HP nc8340.

If it can't be saved I have my HP laptop that's only 2 years old and I'm willing to pass it off to them.

2) I have a G930 headset that works fine 95% of the time but will occasionally begin emitting a buzzing noise that grows, causes the wireless signal to cut in and out while punctuated by high pitched distortion then finally draining the charge. It seems entirely random, I haven't been able to replicate it and I can't predict when it will do it, but it's usually no more than twice in a monthly period. What the hell am I doing wrong with this headset?

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