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jonathan posted:So in planning my revision of my dedicated theater, I'm considering having the projector placed on/in a piece of furniture instead of being ceiling mounted. As some of you know I have pretty good bass capability and around 10hz I tend to knock the projector off aim. It's not just a mount issue, I'm moving the entire ceiling. I can't imagine that having the projector on a table on the floor, secured only by gravity, would be MORE secure than on a high quality, screwed in ceiling mount. At 10hz, are you sure it isn't your eyeballs vibrating?
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Dec 21, 2014 22:21
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ShotgunWillie posted:I can't imagine that having the projector on a table on the floor, secured only by gravity, would be MORE secure than on a high quality, screwed in ceiling mount. This is true. It would be more solid and secure if it wasn't bumped. I'd have to make some marks on the floor where the table would line up to. Getting it more stable while mounted to the ceiling would require structural changes to the house.
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Dec 22, 2014 02:21
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I just recently got a Peerless PRG mount. This thing is wobbly poo poo and the dual 15" subs I have do move it and knock it off center after a couple of movies. The generic mount I had from Visual Apex was better, it vibrated a little bit from the bass, and I think it was more from the house than the mount, but it never needed a re adjustment after almost a year of heavy bass.
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Dec 22, 2014 03:40
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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I've got a 720p Acer projector that is about 6 years old. It's starting to lose colors. It's also pretty loud, we sit directly under it and can't hide it into a shelf or anything. New one might be needed soon, especially if the lamp gives. It's ceiling mounted in a normal living room. Normal (thick) drapes. Room is dark enough 9 months of the year, brightness is mainly needed for summer months. We have a TV for daylight watching. One of our walls is painted to serve as screen with grey paint. Details: http://www.tikkurila.fi/ammattilaiset/varit/varikartat_sisamaalaukseen/symphony_2436_-varikartta/h499.2408.xhtml Distance is about 3 meters from couch to wall. Wall is big enough for a larger picture than our current, but it becomes hard to watch. Future proofing can be hard, but we're likely to watch this thing for at least the next five years. We don't watch TV or almost any series; it's all Blu-Ray movies or in rare cases 480p material. Our current projector has about 1000 hours use time clocked. No gaming, barring maybe Burnout and beer once a year. Criteria: - QUIET. Completely silent isn't possible, but as quiet as possible. - good 2D picture, don't care about 3D - bright enough to work in a living room setting with drapes closed. - reasonably easy remote to learn (I'm not the only user) - can be mounted on a Multibrackets ceiling mount (http://www.multibrackets.com/1011.shtml) - preferred price €2000 or so, hard limit €3000. Suggestions?
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Dec 31, 2014 16:27
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Projector people, I was hoping you might be able to offer some insight on a problem I am having. I have a Sony VPL-VW70 projector. Generally speaking it works great. I am having an issue with my Roku 3 though. For all my sources the display is fine, full 1080p no problem. However with the Roku 3, when it is set to output 1080p the projector displays what looks like a 4/3 standard def picture. Switching the Roku to 720pand it works fine. All other sources 1080p is fine. Its just 1080p on the Roku somehow gets wrecked. Any thoughts? Edit: the 1080p from the Roku works fine when connected to my HDTV. emocrat fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Jan 1, 2015 |
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Jan 1, 2015 05:38
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If you've checked with different cables, I'd look into a repeater. It is possible that the signal from the roku is not the strongest.
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Jan 1, 2015 08:05
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Here's a followup. I finally trusted OP and got the W1070. All I can say is: holy crap. This is the best technology product I've ever owned. The picture is bright and crisp. The pixels are incredibly defined. The rainbow effect is only visible when there are bright white lines on a dark background, basically only when you look at the builtin test pattern. On a 135" screen, viewed from 10', a resolution of 1080p makes all the difference. Anything more would probably be diminishing returns, especially for movies. The black level is not perfect black, but definitely good enough. I also bought a bunch of Estar ESG601 DLP-link 3D galsses (at $18 each, straight from Estar Shenzhen's alibaba page) and they are as awesome as the projector: light, durable, never losing sync. The main problem is that 3D movies are really dark. I can't tell whether it's simply due to the natural 50% reduction in brightness (each eye only gets 50% of the projected light) or if the DLP-link technology makes it worse, by requiring the glasses to suppress the sync flashes. In any case the Estar glasses suppress the red flashes perfectly and never lose sync, even in full HD 3D, so I consider them a good product. I'm thinking of placing a tab-tensioned screen out of view, behind one of the wooden beams, so that I can get better quality and more brightness for 3D movies. I'd be fine with either motorized or manual, but I couldn't find any manual tab-tensioned screens. Is this the best bang for the buck? Elite Starling Tension, "SpectraWhite fiberglass" material (whatever that is) at 135" 16:9 for $946 Should I wait and buy this one instead? Elite CineTension2, "CineWhite" material, 135" 16:9 for $1,216 If the latter, should I get the 1.0 CineGrey or the 1.1 CineWhite? I can control the light perfectly in my room and I need the most brightness I can get for 3D movies: I'm afraid a gray screen would take too much light out. But it's rated 1.0, so wouldn't that make it at least as bright as the wall? etatoby fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Mar 2, 2015 |
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Jan 1, 2015 15:50
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Those screens will ripple over time. If you could go with a fixed screen. Visual Apex sells a 135" for 500. I've had mine for a couple of years and like it quite well. I eventually changed the material to an AT variety so I could place the speakers behind it.
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Jan 1, 2015 18:23
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Do any of the newer projectors auto detect side-by-side 3D format ? Some TV's do. I am thinking of selling my HD33 for something newer. Requirements are to be bright enough for a 140" screen (in a light controlled room), be able to auto detect SBS content, and be able to switch refresh rates and 2D to 3D mode very quickly. My HD33 takes a solid 8+ seconds to switch refresh rates and it annoys the gently caress out of me.
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Jan 4, 2015 17:46
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I'm looking to burn some year end bonus cash and set up a theater room in my unfinished basement. The space that I am planning to use is 15' wide by at most 20' deep with around 7.5' for height (floor joists are a tad over 8', but want to play safe with acoustic ceiling tiles and flooring). Realistically, I am looking at approximately 11-13' for sitting distance and am trying to decide on a 110" or 120" screen. I am mostly favoring the BenQ HT1075 or HT1085ST. My concern is that from the calculators, the throw distance on the 1075 will be too close for the brightness as I will need to mount the projector from the ceiling around 9.5-10' from the screen otherwise it will be dropped around 18" due to ducting if I need to go further back. Even during the day, the basement is dark. I will be installing dimmable lights and blacking out the windows to control light. I'm discounting the w1070 and w1080st due to lack of vertical lens shift at this point (gently caress keystone). I'm also interested in the epsons, but would like to keep the 3D capability with lens shift and also be able to afford to finish my basement. Projectors are surprisingly hard. Edit: Forgot the whole question aspect. Am I an idiot or am I on the right path? What recommendations do you folks have for someone who will be buying a silver screen and projector from Amazon. Mounts included. The deeper I dive in projectors, the dumber I feel. Terminus Est fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 6, 2015 07:03
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Terminus Est posted:I'm discounting the w1070 ... due to lack of vertical lens shift at this point The w1070 has vertical lens shift.
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Jan 6, 2015 07:07
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sethsez posted:The w1070 has vertical lens shift. They really need to clarify that in their literature as I could not distinguish if they meant keystone or true lens shift.
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Jan 6, 2015 07:14
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I saw a guy on the AVS forums claim that he got an upgraded HDMI board from 1.4b to HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 for his Dreamvision (JCV clone), is he full of poo poo or is this a possibility?
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Jan 6, 2015 21:32
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Any of you projector gurus have any insight on basic calibration? I really have no idea what I am doing with this and if you have advice or links to even basic guides about the principles involved I would appreciate it. I spent some time last night messing with settings and I was constantly flip-floping on what I thought looked good. I am not really up for paying hundreds for a pro, and I don't need perfect, but some basics for a balanced viewing experience would be awesome.
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Jan 7, 2015 16:38
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Just do what looks best to you. I prefer an image that's overly sharp and quite dark while I'm sure others do not.
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Jan 7, 2015 17:09
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emocrat posted:Any of you projector gurus have any insight on basic calibration? I really have no idea what I am doing with this and if you have advice or links to even basic guides about the principles involved I would appreciate it. I spent some time last night messing with settings and I was constantly flip-floping on what I thought looked good. I am not really up for paying hundreds for a pro, and I don't need perfect, but some basics for a balanced viewing experience would be awesome. So with a basic calibration I play a calibration disc (or file) on whatever device I use the most. IE my home theatre PC running xbmc. However, if your projector has a THX, Movie, or Reference mode, that will get it pretty close. Start there and then adjust to your preference.
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Jan 7, 2015 18:52
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Aeka 2.0 posted:I saw a guy on the AVS forums claim that he got an upgraded HDMI board from 1.4b to HDMI 2.0 HDCP 2.2 for his Dreamvision (JCV clone), is he full of poo poo or is this a possibility? I have no idea, sorry. Board upgrades aren't completely unheard of -- Sony did them with the VW1000 or VW1100, can't remember which -- but I don't know Dreamvision or their customer service well enough to guess. emocrat posted:Any of you projector gurus have any insight on basic calibration? I really have no idea what I am doing with this and if you have advice or links to even basic guides about the principles involved I would appreciate it. I spent some time last night messing with settings and I was constantly flip-floping on what I thought looked good. I am not really up for paying hundreds for a pro, and I don't need perfect, but some basics for a balanced viewing experience would be awesome. Basic calibration without tools: 1. Find out which of your projector's modes is closest to calibrated already. Someone on AVS has probably calibrated it before, so check there. 2. Get a decent calibration disc and a blue filter. 3. Use the patterns on the disc to adjust brightness, contrast, color, tint, and sharpness. You use the blue filter for color and tint. 4. Stop, because you can't accurately adjust white balance or gamut without a meter. Adjusting color without a meter isn't "calibrating" the projector. It's "dicking around with the settings." And don't use someone else's numbers, because that doesn't work nearly as well as people think. That's it. If you want to get into real calibration, pick up an X-Rite i1 Display Pro (~$200) and a (free) copy of HCFR and learn how to calibrate your poo poo. King Hotpants fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Jan 7, 2015 |
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Jan 7, 2015 19:17
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Rumor has it that there will be a US version of the VW300, but it will be called the VW350. Any truth? This happened Monday morning. MSRP $9,999, on sale for $7,999. Projector Central says they'll have a review up by this afternoon.
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Jan 7, 2015 19:19
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Thanks for the input guys. "Dicking around with settings" is exactly what I have been doing. I don't really care about it matching an abstract value of perfect, more that I would get it somewhere and be like, that looks great! and the scene would change and then I would be like, nope its blown out. Or too dark or whatever. Basically I dont really know the relationships between the various settings, so I don't have an understanding of what will happen in a differently lit scene when i adjust something. I will check AVS and see about a getting a disc. Thanks.
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Jan 7, 2015 19:43
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emocrat posted:Thanks for the input guys. "Dicking around with settings" is exactly what I have been doing. I don't really care about it matching an abstract value of perfect, more that I would get it somewhere and be like, that looks great! and the scene would change and then I would be like, nope its blown out. Or too dark or whatever. Basically I dont really know the relationships between the various settings, so I don't have an understanding of what will happen in a differently lit scene when i adjust something. It's less about hitting "an abstract value of perfect" and more about preventing the thing you're talking about. We use test patterns and meters to calibrate displays because our eyes think different settings look good in different scenes. But then the scene changes and suddenly it all looks like crap. I used to have a friend who insisted he could calibrate color just using his eyes. And yes, he could make a scene look really good, until the next scene came on or we switched movies or whatever. My favorite incident was when he calibrated everything by watching Casino Royale on Blu-ray, then wondered why every other movie looked sort of pink. Turns out the Blu-ray of that movie has a heavy green bias, so he was boosting the poo poo out of magenta. I'll try to write up a basic overview of what the different settings do and add it to the OP. It seems like it would help.
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Jan 9, 2015 18:39
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King Hotpants posted:It's less about hitting "an abstract value of perfect" and more about preventing the thing you're talking about. We use test patterns and meters to calibrate displays because our eyes think different settings look good in different scenes. But then the scene changes and suddenly it all looks like crap. That would be super helpful. Thanks.
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Jan 9, 2015 18:56
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Terminus Est posted:They really need to clarify that in their literature as I could not distinguish if they meant keystone or true lens shift.
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Jan 9, 2015 19:56
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I added a calibration section to the second post in the thread, here, under the section on screens.
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Jan 9, 2015 20:44
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Could someone comment on this please? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3667435&perpage=40&pagenumber=4#post439609314
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Jan 9, 2015 20:46
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Hob_Gadling posted:Could someone comment on this please? I'm not sure what "starting to lose colors" means. If it's what I think it is, you need a new lamp. If you are already decided on a new projector, check to see if the Sony HW40ES is inside your price range. I'm not familiar with the cost in Euros, but it sounds like it'd work.
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Jan 9, 2015 20:59
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King Hotpants, where would you buy your replacement bulbs? My Optoma HD20's lamp is bound to go out soon.
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Jan 9, 2015 23:29
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B&H Photo has official Optoma HD20 replacement lamps for $190ish. They cost $249 direct from Optoma, so that's pretty good.
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Jan 9, 2015 23:41
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King Hotpants posted:I added a calibration section to the second post in the thread, here, under the section on screens. Disney Wow does come with a blue filter. The nice thing about this disc is the test patterns for brightness and contrast aren't static, they use large star cutouts for each shade that shift position and rapidly change brightness for a short period of time before returning to normal brightness. This happens every few seconds to eliminate image retention in your eyes. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Jan 10, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 01:30
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About 2 years ago I purchased a $100 105" Elite pull down screen. When pulled down, the left edge of the screen sort of curves out toward the viewer, which makes panning scenes look trippy. Right edge seems straight still. Is this the "ripples and waves" thing that develops to cheap screens over time?
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Jan 13, 2015 00:35
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VermiciousKnid84 posted:About 2 years ago I purchased a $100 105" Elite pull down screen. When pulled down, the left edge of the screen sort of curves out toward the viewer, which makes panning scenes look trippy. Right edge seems straight still. Is this the "ripples and waves" thing that develops to cheap screens over time? Yes.
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Jan 14, 2015 18:14
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I have a $1500 budget for a small studio apartment home theater setup. I have a 6'x4' white wall right behind my computer desk, and two massive studio monitors on the sides, so it makes sense to place a projector screen on that wall. This is a very approximate picture of the setup: http://imgur.com/Uh6KQRZ[1] (there are actually no walls on both the left and right sides) The challenge is that I have only about 5' from the wall to the bed, and I'm not currently planning to set up any mounts in here, so it leaves me only with the short throw and ultra short throw options. I could place the projector either directly on the desk (that'd be great) or on a stand about 5' away from the wall. I might be missing some options here, I'm a complete beginner, so please do recommend alternatives if I've missed any. In terms of what I've seen out there, I considered ST and UST projectors: I couldn't find anything 1080p and affordable in terms of UST projectors, am I missing something? In terms of ST, the BenQ HT1085ST seems very popular, but it seems to want at least a good 6' or more, so I'm not sure if that'll be good enough. Thoughts? Recommendations? Anything I missed? Totally out of my element here, so hope you guys can point me in the right direction.
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Jan 16, 2015 05:50
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You can still use the W1080ST/HT1085ST, but you'll get a smaller picture. You didn't specify desired image size, though, so I don't know what you're going for. If the back of the projector is at 5' the front will be around 4', so you can expect an 80" diagonal image. Ish.
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Jan 23, 2015 01:25
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Sounds good, makes sense.
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Jan 26, 2015 07:39
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As much as I like my new JVC x700r, the blacks are really great, i mean like black hole great compared to anything previous that I've had or seen. But I'm getting a ton of black crush, I don't have a meter, I could see it on test patterns, and definitely see it in movies. I've adjusted and re adjusted brightness before moving the black floor up, and even bumped the gamma sliders "Picture Tone" and "Dark Level." From my understanding they work around your target gamma, and since I don't have a meter, I keep it at "THX." I think I should be able to bring some detail out by eye, I must be missing something.
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Jan 27, 2015 22:12
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Aeka 2.0 posted:As much as I like my new JVC x700r, the blacks are really great, i mean like black hole great compared to anything previous that I've had or seen. But I'm getting a ton of black crush, I don't have a meter, I could see it on test patterns, and definitely see it in movies. I've adjusted and re adjusted brightness before moving the black floor up, and even bumped the gamma sliders "Picture Tone" and "Dark Level." From my understanding they work around your target gamma, and since I don't have a meter, I keep it at "THX." I think I should be able to bring some detail out by eye, I must be missing something. It's a gamma problem. I bet THX uses 2.4 gamma, and AFAIK the X700R doesn't quite have the range for it. If you can bump it down to 2.2, that will fix your problem. Then you can undo all the stuff you did to mess with your black level.
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Jan 28, 2015 18:14
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After undoing everything, switching from THX to anything else, from 1.8 to 2.4 obliterates the "middle gray" of the image. It isn't obvious on the test patterns I was looking at, but once I saw a regular image, things looked pastel like, or washed out. And this is after I made corrections for each gamma mode.
Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jan 29, 2015 |
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Jan 29, 2015 04:36
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maybe it's that black level thing, like, 16-255 vs 0-255 or whatever. I don't even remember.
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Jan 29, 2015 21:59
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Well looks like it was an issue with my PC at the 4k input level. Everything is working as it should. Haven't tried 4k yet again, but my pc may have been putting out the wrong color space at 4k like you suspected jonathan. It may explain why I didn't notice the problem in the test pattern since I was using blu-ray for that.
Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Feb 1, 2015 |
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Jan 31, 2015 07:24
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Yeah the black range thing gets me confused. I forget which I'm supposed to use and which to calibrate for. But now that I'm running xbmc via a google nexus player instead of an htpc is doesn't do the colour space thing.
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Feb 6, 2015 21:03
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I love the NP and have two but kept an HTPC for my projector as it can change frame rates and the NP can't. There's the whole color thing too. Why did you switch to the NP for your projector?
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Feb 6, 2015 21:44
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