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Foolster41 posted:yeah, I don't much care to keep the headless cows. Scissors actually works pretty well too. Fallout game?
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Oct 13, 2015 22:29
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Avenging Dentist posted:I'd be careful with paperclips. If they're steel, you'll need heavy-duty wire cutters unless you like ruining your hobby cutters. Aluminum paper clips should be fine, although I think they're weaker than brass. The other nice thing about brass rod is that it's perfectly round and smooth, so it's also useful for replacing particularly narrow staffs/banner poles. Plus, K&S's 1/16" brass tubing fits perfectly around their 1/32" brass rod, so it's easy to make a detachable banner pole with it. Is there any good way of telling what random paperclips you've got are? EDIT: Also, unrelated query, but I'm in the UK. What brands are analogous to windex/simple green for dissolving paint here? spectralent fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Oct 13, 2015 |
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Oct 13, 2015 22:30
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spectralent posted:Is there any good way of telling what random paperclips you've got are? Put a magnet near the paper clips? Also the OP has various info on paint stripping, my go-to is clean spirit.
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Oct 13, 2015 22:34
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spectralent posted:Is there any good way of telling what random paperclips you've got are? It's not a perfect test, but if you can pick up your paperclip with a magnet, it's probably steel. e: Beaten, so I'll add a probably-obvious bit of safety advice. Wear goggles, and/or be careful about securing both ends of your pin when you snip it so you don't put out an eye. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Oct 13, 2015 |
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Oct 13, 2015 22:36
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I ordered the Halloween bundle special from Reaper Mini, and it arrived in the mail today! Their freebie package included a little baggie with some candy in it and some free paints, plus a free miniature. So while opening up all the figures I ordered, let's see what freebie mini I get... *sad trombone sound* At least I got free paint and a couple of Starburst and whatever. Plus it is hilarious that they packaged a rock inside mini packaging and sent it to me in the mail.
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Oct 13, 2015 23:01
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I don't care what anyone else thinks. That's hilarious.
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Oct 13, 2015 23:41
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spectralent posted:Is there any good way of telling what random paperclips you've got are? As a rule of thumb cheap paper clips are almost always soft metal and you can cut them just fine. Do it enough times you'll develop a good gage of material just from the pressure you feel when you cut it with your hobby clippers/wire cutters
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Oct 13, 2015 23:45
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HJE-Cobra posted:I ordered the Halloween bundle special from Reaper Mini, and it arrived in the mail today! Their freebie package included a little baggie with some candy in it and some free paints, plus a free miniature. So while opening up all the figures I ordered, let's see what freebie mini I get... That's fantastic. Does it have the $9999 price tag on it?
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Oct 13, 2015 23:48
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LordAba posted:Fallout game? Yep. Fallout: Warfare. I'm gathering an army. I now have: 3 BOS paladin w/ SMG 1 BOS Paladin w/ minigun 1 BOS Paladin Rifle/Heavy Rifle 3 Brahin 1 Reaver/Raider/Beastlord W. SMG 2 Rad scropions 1 Deathclaw
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Oct 13, 2015 23:51
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Slimnoid posted:That's fantastic. Does it have the $9999 price tag on it? No, there wasn't any price tag on the rock. The back of the package is just the regular Reaper Dark Heaven Bones packaging info about "Amazing detail from the best sculptors" and "10% recycled material" and so on.
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Oct 14, 2015 00:17
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So I've been painting my Heavy Dragonspawn kits, which I magnetized since one is from the Legion starter and the other AIO so this gives me some nice variety, and I've run into a snag - the magnets keep ripping themselves free. Any suggestions on the best adhesive to keep these little guys in? Epoxy? I had prepared the surfaces but any attempt at regluing isn't working overly well.
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Oct 14, 2015 01:29
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Spiderdrake posted:So I've been painting my Heavy Dragonspawn kits, which I magnetized since one is from the Legion starter and the other AIO so this gives me some nice variety, and I've run into a snag - the magnets keep ripping themselves free. Any suggestions on the best adhesive to keep these little guys in? Epoxy? I had prepared the surfaces but any attempt at regluing isn't working overly well. I magnetized my heavy Dragonspawn kits as well. I just used CA glue and they've been holding for months. I use big 1/4" magnets too. All are recessed into the heads/arms/body so there's glue on all sides but one.
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Oct 14, 2015 01:56
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spectralent posted:I'm not sure if this is also the place for modelling queries, but who does little bits of brass for pinning and where can I give them my money? Coming in super late on this, but I've actually found some surprisingly thin brass rods at my local Ace hardware. These were back by the sign section (which is a great place to get cheap plasticard, by the way). If you've got a decent local hardware place, might be a good idea to check them out.
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Oct 14, 2015 02:07
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Coming in super late on this, but I've actually found some surprisingly thin brass rods at my local Ace hardware. These were back by the sign section (which is a great place to get cheap plasticard, by the way). If you've got a decent local hardware place, might be a good idea to check them out. I already ordered some cheapo brass paperclips 
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Oct 14, 2015 02:17
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I'm looking to make some sections of a sacbe (roadways made of rubble coated with limestone stucco) for some bases, and I noticed that Vallejo's stucco-texture paint is just gesso. Would regular artist-brand gesso work for that too? My general plan is to make a rubble base with bits of cork, fill in the cracks a bit with some dirt texture, and then have a few parts with the stucco still intact on it. I've also considered taking some artistic liberties and using crackle paint to make the "stucco" texture a little more interesting. Any thoughts?
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Oct 14, 2015 02:39
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Avenging Dentist posted:I'm looking to make some sections of a sacbe (roadways made of rubble coated with limestone stucco) for some bases, and I noticed that Vallejo's stucco-texture paint is just gesso. Would regular artist-brand gesso work for that too? My general plan is to make a rubble base with bits of cork, fill in the cracks a bit with some dirt texture, and then have a few parts with the stucco still intact on it. I've also considered taking some artistic liberties and using crackle paint to make the "stucco" texture a little more interesting. Any thoughts? For stucco texture I usually use wood filler paste mixed with modelling sand.
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Oct 14, 2015 02:55
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Foolster41 posted:yeah, I don't much care to keep the headless cows. Scissors actually works pretty well too. This makes me happy. Where did you get the cows? Edit: You may also find this selection useful for adding some more post-apocalypse fun into the mix: http://studio2publishing.com/collections/all-items/hell-on-earth-miniatures Iris of Ether fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Oct 14, 2015 |
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Oct 14, 2015 03:20
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El Estrago Bonito posted:For stucco texture I usually use wood filler paste mixed with modelling sand. Hm, I'll probably need some finer sand for that. I'm tempted to try mixing sand with gel medium now just to see how it works. (Also, I'm somewhat more likely to use a whole bottle of gel medium than of wood filler.) e: Or I could just get one of the finer-grained Vallejo textures and spend my time on more fruitful pursuits. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Oct 14, 2015 |
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Oct 14, 2015 03:51
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Iris of Ether posted:This makes me happy. Where did you get the cows?  On amazon, doing a search for cows, I figured 1:64 was close to the scale I wanted and found this. I'll have to keep that site in mind if I want something for Reavers/Raiders that I can't get with Reape (who I've been mainly keeping with for figures thus far, besides obv. the Brahmin). Foolster41 fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Oct 14, 2015 |
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Oct 14, 2015 04:05
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Below is a list of the best-loved paints from any range. This list is compiled from posts both here and on other forums (mainly CMON), plus a few recommendations from various painting videos. I broke it up by fairly-arbitrarily putting each one into a basic color, and within each color, they're sorted roughly from light to dark. A  indicates paints that lots of people love. If there are paints people think I missed, let me know (in the thread or via PM) and I'll add them.Whites/Greys/Blacks P3 Morrow White (93073): Pure white; very good coverage VMC Ivory (70.918): Non-chalky almost-white VMC Deck Tan (70.986): Good for highlights and mixingReaper Linen White (9061) Reaper Ghost White (9063) Reaper Snow Shadow (9021) VMC Neutral Grey (70.992) VMC German Grey (70.995): Near-black Reaper Noir Black (9289): Near-black P3 Thamar Black (93072): Pure black Browns VMC Pale Sand (70.837): Useful for skin highlights, eyes, teeth VMC Iraqui [sic] Sand (70.819) P3 Rucksack Tan (93062) VMC Brown Sand (70.876) VMA Armor Brown (71.041) P3 Bloodstone (93029) Reaper Woodstain Brown (9160) Reaper Walnut Brown (9136) VMC German Camo Black-Brown (70.822): Very dark neutral brown, good for shadingVMC Hull Red (70.985) Reaper Brown Liner (9064) Reds VMC Carmine Red (70.908): Bright, warm red VMC Red #33 (70.926): Fairly bright, cool red (just a bit darker than VMC Carmine Red) VMA Ferrari Red (71.085) Reaper Old West Rose (9283): Good mixer for shading skin VGA Bloody Red (72.710) Reaper Bloodstain Red (9133) VMC Black Red (70.859) Oranges Reaper Amber Gold (9032) P3 Ember Orange (93023): Good for shading sand Yellows Reaper Golden Blonde (9033) P3 Cygnus Yellow (93025): Non-chalky bright yellow VMA Golden Yellow (71.078) VGC Scrofulous Brown (72.038): Good undercoat for painting yellow on top of Greens VGC Scurvy Green (72.027) Cyans Reaper Marine Teal (9077) Reaper Surf Aqua (9078) Reaper Seafoam Blue (9195) P3 Coal Black (93046)Citadel Incubi Darkness Blues VMC Dark Prussian Blue (70.899) Purples Reaper Violet Red (9026) Reaper Pale Violet (9027) VMC Violet Red (70.812) VMC Blue Violet (70.811) Flesh Tones Reaper Tanned Skin Triad (9043-5) Reaper Dark Elf Triad (9163-5) Metallics VMA Silvers (71.062-5)Reaper True Silver (9207) Reaper Aged Pewter (9196) P3 Pig Iron (93074) Vallejo Metal Color (77.xxx): Water-based metallics generally considered among the best Vallejo metallics Scale75 Metal & Alchemy (SSE-009, SSE-010, SSE-021): Much finer mica flakes (the shiny stuff) than other brandsWashes/Transparent VMC Transparent Yellow (70.937): Good for saturating yellows Citadel Casandora Yellow: Good for saturating yellows Tamiya Clear Red (X-27): Great for blood effectsCitadel Drankenhof Nightshade: Good for shading bluish whites Citadel Agrax Earthshade: Good dark-brown wash Scale75 Inktense Chestnut: A less glossy version of GW's old Chestnut ink Army Painter Strong Tone Ink: Good dark-brown wash (very close to Agrax Earthshade) Army Painter Dark Tone Ink: Good black wash VMC Smoke (70.939) P3 Armor Wash (93012): Bluish-black wash
Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 19:53 on May 22, 2018 |
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Oct 14, 2015 04:30
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Foolster41 posted:
There's also Brother Vinni but you might not want to give him money depending on your views of his non-Fallout minis.
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Oct 14, 2015 04:34
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Avenging Dentist posted:For what it's worth, here's the compiled list of paints that people really like, both here and on other forums (mainly CMON). I've used almost all of those, and they're all great. That's a great list. Since I made the recomondation, I'll say I use the Old West Rose almost exclusively as a mixer for shading skin.
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Oct 14, 2015 04:46
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El Estrago Bonito posted:There's also Brother Vinni but you might not want to give him money depending on your views of his non-Fallout minis. He does cheesecake/nude women doesn't he? yep.
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Oct 14, 2015 06:18
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Foolster41 posted:He does cheesecake/nude women doesn't he? I went to his site, clicked on the "Girls" category, and for a moment thought, "that's not too bad, he just did 4 cheesecake models". But then I realized those were 4 categories. It always makes me wonder why no one really does naked dude minis.
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Oct 14, 2015 06:37
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Avenging Dentist posted:For what it's worth, here's the compiled list of paints that people really like, both here and on other forums (mainly CMON). Add RMS Noir Black, VMC German Grey to blacks, these are awesome for highlighting pure black (or being shaded with pure black if you prefer)
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Oct 14, 2015 08:05
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Avenging Dentist posted:For what it's worth, here's the compiled list of paints that people really like, both here and on other forums (mainly CMON). This is awesome, and a good start to my paint shopping list. I've added the link to your post in the OP, if you don't mind keeping it updated. If not, I'll copy/paste the post into the OP and maintain it.
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Oct 14, 2015 09:39
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Avenging Dentist posted:I'd be careful with paperclips. If they're steel, you'll need heavy-duty wire cutters unless you like ruining your hobby cutters. Aluminum paper clips should be fine, although I think they're weaker than brass. The other nice thing about brass rod is that it's perfectly round and smooth, so it's also useful for replacing particularly narrow staffs/banner poles. Plus, K&S's 1/16" brass tubing fits perfectly around their 1/32" brass rod, so it's easy to make a detachable banner pole with it. Just use a regular cheap set of needlenose pliers with an inbuilt cutting edge. I've been using one for 10 years, the edge is ruined, but it will still cut paperclips. Also  brass is harder than steel! I personally wouldn't use hobby cutters for anything apart from plastic or putty.
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Oct 14, 2015 10:24
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Avenging Dentist posted:Hm, I'll probably need some finer sand for that. I'm tempted to try mixing sand with gel medium now just to see how it works. (Also, I'm somewhat more likely to use a whole bottle of gel medium than of wood filler.) There's artists acrylic textured medium that would fit your requirements and be cheaper than buying Vallejo?
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Oct 14, 2015 10:26
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Foolster41 posted:yeah, I don't much care to keep the headless cows. Scissors actually works pretty well too. For variety's sake and to make it more natural, I recommend cutting both heads off so that you can get more symmetry. Makes it look like a two-headed mutant cow rather than a head was glued onto the side. Some could have no necks, awkwardly positioned at an angle (no disrespect to those sisters that are conjoined at the neck, but note how the orientation of the heads are altered to accommodate each other). HJE-Cobra posted:I ordered the Halloween bundle special from Reaper Mini, and it arrived in the mail today! Their freebie package included a little baggie with some candy in it and some free paints, plus a free miniature. So while opening up all the figures I ordered, let's see what freebie mini I get... I can hear a bean counter at GW having an aneurysm. "What are they doing at Reaper, do they not realize that they're devaluing their IP!"
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Oct 14, 2015 14:55
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krushgroove posted:This is awesome, and a good start to my paint shopping list. I've added the link to your post in the OP, if you don't mind keeping it updated. If not, I'll copy/paste the post into the OP and maintain it. Cool, thanks! I'll happily keep it updated! At some point I might pull it out into a little webpage so I can add filters and such, but for the time being, I'll probably just update the post. Z the IVth posted:Also Really? I guess cheap steel alloys might be softer, but spring steel has about twice the yield strength of brass. Personally, I use heavy wire snips for all metal (including pewter), but I know plenty of people who have no issues with using hobby cutters on brass or pewter. Z the IVth posted:There's artists acrylic textured medium that would fit your requirements and be cheaper than buying Vallejo? That's true, although the price difference seems to be pretty small in this case, and Vallejo has a wider variety of textures. I figure, if I ever want to go really crazy, I can buy some gel medium and mix it with sand of various sizes.
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Oct 14, 2015 17:37
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ok i got some money i wasnt expecting and ive decided to upgrade my paint collection. i paint mostly reaper bones and i'm not very good. is there a specific paint brand i should look into? thanks
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Oct 14, 2015 19:20
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Cat Face Joe posted:ok i got some money i wasnt expecting and ive decided to upgrade my paint collection. i paint mostly reaper bones and i'm not very good. is there a specific paint brand i should look into? thanks Reaper Master Series, Army Painter, Vallejo Game Color/Model Color, Privateer Press P3. There's also Citadel but they're worse, more expensive and GW is a lovely company you shouldn't support. Those are roughly in order from most to least subjectively recommended. RMS are awesome but want a few hours of drying before you can safely wash them, Vallejo Model Color have a realistic military oriented palette and look prettier than Game Color but easier to rub off (as are RMS; you should get some varnish anyway), P3 are in pots which are IMO less convenient but YMMV, P3 are very good but their metallics are crap. Army Painter are solid basic gamer palette for beginners. These all mix with each other so mix and match to taste (do not actually taste paint) unless you find a complete set you want at a major bargain. Definitely grab Army Painter shading washes (Soft/Strong/Dark tone, you want those in bottles and not tin cans, very different). And some Vallejo Glaze Medium, add a drop to the paint mix for highlighting, you'll thank me later 
Pierzak fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Oct 14, 2015 |
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Oct 14, 2015 19:51
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Cat Face Joe posted:ok i got some money i wasnt expecting and ive decided to upgrade my paint collection. i paint mostly reaper bones and i'm not very good. is there a specific paint brand i should look into? thanks What Pierzak said, plus do not get seduced by the size of Minitaire's bottles. Personally I prefer airbrush paints but only because thinning is simpler
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Oct 14, 2015 20:14
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Cat Face Joe posted:ok i got some money i wasnt expecting and ive decided to upgrade my paint collection. i paint mostly reaper bones and i'm not very good. is there a specific paint brand i should look into? thanks There's the "favorite paints" list I compiled for just this purpose: giving people who want to branch out and try new paints a good jumping off point for the various ranges. Thankfully, it seems that most of the ranges are pretty good these days (though I have seen a fair number of complaints about VGC specifically). Pierzak posted:Reaper Master Series, Army Painter, Vallejo Game Color/Model Color, Privateer Press P3. There's also Citadel but they're worse, more expensive and GW is a lovely company you shouldn't support. Citadel's metallics are still good as far as I can tell (and people seem to like their pre-made washes a lot), and they have the benefit of being in pretty much every store. If that helps you pick out the paints you need, then go for it. Also, I haven't had a chance to try any of them, but people have been singing the praises of Scale75, especially for metallics.
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Oct 14, 2015 20:28
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Avenging Dentist posted:Really? I guess cheap steel alloys might be softer, but spring steel has about twice the yield strength of brass. Personally, I use heavy wire snips for all metal (including pewter), but I know plenty of people who have no issues with using hobby cutters on brass or pewter. Actually, don't quote me on that. I think I might have mixed it up with iron. I remember a history post which said that bronze was harder to work than iron. My bad.
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Oct 14, 2015 20:31
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Avenging Dentist posted:I went to his site, clicked on the "Girls" category, and for a moment thought, "that's not too bad, he just did 4 cheesecake models". But then I realized those were 4 categories. It always makes me wonder why no one really does naked dude minis. Don't you know straight dudebros don't want to see that, and girls don't buy miniatures games. (Hmm, I wonder why...) Post 9-11 User posted:For variety's sake and to make it more natural, I recommend cutting both heads off so that you can get more symmetry. Makes it look like a two-headed mutant cow rather than a head was glued onto the side. Some could have no necks, awkwardly positioned at an angle (no disrespect to those sisters that are conjoined at the neck, but note how the orientation of the heads are altered to accommodate each other). I was considering that but it's going to be a pain to clean up the spot where the head was (since it'd be a bit white spot), and since the line of the next extends down at an angle to between the legs i wouldn't be able to make it match up right and would look dumb. I do plan on putting the head on the opposite side of some. Also, I'm going to do some filling with green stuff and my best at a little painting (hopefully I can find/mix a close match so I don't have to repaint the whole drat cow).
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Oct 14, 2015 20:34
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For metallics the best I've used are Vallejo Liquid Gold paints. These are alcohol based, but are the poo poo. Rock on dude
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Oct 14, 2015 20:38
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Is there a specific thing wrong with VGC, or are they just not preferred? 'cause I just bought a shitload of them last week.
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Oct 14, 2015 20:56
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Foolster41 posted:He does cheesecake/nude women doesn't he? One of those nude slave girls is also apparently based on the former Prime Minister of the Ukraine. Also the masturbating nun. Basically what I'm saying is that his nudie minis go a bit further than somewhere like Shadowforge and many people here have voiced opinions about not wanting to give him money based on this.
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Oct 14, 2015 20:56
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El Estrago Bonito posted:One of those nude slave girls is also apparently based on the former Prime Minister of the Ukraine. Also the masturbating nun. Ah, so it's even worse than I thought. I had just checked the site and saw a few nudes and figured that's all I needed to know. Yikes.
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Oct 14, 2015 20:58
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