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cage-free egghead
Mar 8, 2004

Ready to eat me, sir!


Oh gosh, I didn't realize how robust RGB has gotten the last few years. I had a tube light in my old case that I got in 2004 that was awesome. But with the stuff now you can sync them together across the mobo, ram, gpu, etc? I don't know why but I love it.

Edit: Page snipe RGB tax lol

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Chichevache
Feb 16, 2010

One of the funniest posters in GIP.

Just not intentionally.


Ugly In The Morning posted:

If you grab one of the 400 dollar 2060 supers, yes... with an asterisk, because the rest of your computer is kind of anemic.

The reason I'm recommending the 2060 super is because NVidia recently revamped the DLSS thing the RTX cards can do, so in supported games you can get some insane performance and quality bumps.

But, I'm not sure how well that i5 is going to hold up with modern games.

E:Really you're better off with the 1660 super and putting the rest of the money away, there's no way you're really going to be able to take full advantage of a fancier card with that processor.

Thanks. I appreciate how helpful you've been.

Nilbog
Oct 26, 2002

Honey...who are the goblins?

Stickman posted:

Itís also Zotac, who have a relatively bad reputation for support. If itís not significantly cheaper than an EVGA black edition Iíd choose the EVGA instead - it has a better cooler and EVGA has top-notch support.

E: Ah, link is working for me now - $70 is a tougher call. It comes down to how much youíre willing to deal with the potential draw-backs.

Thanks - the difference in price makes it a tougher choice. If it was $20 or something, for sure I'd go with the more solid one....

Thom P. Tiers
May 29, 2008

Red Birds
Red Ass
Red Text

cage-free egghead posted:

Oh gosh, I didn't realize how robust RGB has gotten the last few years. I had a tube light in my old case that I got in 2004 that was awesome. But with the stuff now you can sync them together across the mobo, ram, gpu, etc? I don't know why but I love it.

Edit: Page snipe RGB tax lol

Yea, you can actually make RGB *look* nice now too. Those cathode ray tubes and UV light strips were incredibly hilarious and ugly.

KingKapalone
Dec 20, 2005
1/16 Native American + 1/2 Hungarian = Totally Badass

It sounds like one of the 80mm fans in my file server is making some new noise I don't like. I have two of these in there from 2016 https://www.newegg.com/silenx-efx-0...N82E16835226033 but I wonder if there's something better. I want quiet since it's always on (and now in the room I'm always in due to WFH). It's not a variable RPM fan which I guess would be nice when the server isn't doing anything. I don't know if the motherboard supports that though, but I'd have to see if I can remember which board is in here.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



KingKapalone posted:

It sounds like one of the 80mm fans in my file server is making some new noise I don't like. I have two of these in there from 2016 https://www.newegg.com/silenx-efx-0...N82E16835226033 but I wonder if there's something better. I want quiet since it's always on (and now in the room I'm always in due to WFH). It's not a variable RPM fan which I guess would be nice when the server isn't doing anything. I don't know if the motherboard supports that though, but I'd have to see if I can remember which board is in here.

Noctua's going to be the way to go for that, but definitely check if you've got a 2, 3, or 4 pin fan. Either way the Noctua's support PWM if you have it.
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=noctua+80mm

KingKapalone
Dec 20, 2005
1/16 Native American + 1/2 Hungarian = Totally Badass

Rexxed posted:

Noctua's going to be the way to go for that, but definitely check if you've got a 2, 3, or 4 pin fan. Either way the Noctua's support PWM if you have it.
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=noctua+80mm

Thanks I'll look.

ALso my friend wants a GPU for about $200. Any recommendations? He games at 1080p. Mainly WoW, CS, a bit of Overwatch, etc.

Protons
Sep 15, 2012



Klyith posted:

Good standard build. My one other idea would be that if the HDD is meant for just bulk storage (music, photos, other fairly inert data) you could switch down to a 5400rpm drive. You get less vibration noise from the drive.


That card looks pretty much like it's a 2060 cooler on a 2070, so it's gonna be hotter and/or louder. Not sure how bad though, most 2070s have a lot more cooler than they really need (gotta justify $500 somehow).

That build is considered standard now? Geez, I'm way behind.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



KingKapalone posted:

Thanks I'll look.

ALso my friend wants a GPU for about $200. Any recommendations? He games at 1080p. Mainly WoW, CS, a bit of Overwatch, etc.

Probably a nvidia GTX 1660 Super if he can go a little over $200. If not the AMD RX 580 is a little older but decent and often around $180 for new.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Thom P. Tiers posted:

Yea, you can actually make RGB *look* nice now too. Those cathode ray tubes and UV light strips were incredibly hilarious and ugly.

Not really. Now you think cold cathodes look tacky, but believe me, all rgb does too. It's just a trend/fad, and that's perfectly fine. Let's just not pretend that it's the height of timeless style

chernobyl kinsman
Mar 18, 2007

a friend of the friendly atom



Soiled Meat

i have a Gigabyte B450M DS3h motherboard and a mustex 903 case. do the wires labeled power, reset, power LED, etc., go into the motherboard or the power source?

also theres a plug in the case labeled "dxd" and i have no idea what that does. i honestly dontknow what im doing

chernobyl kinsman fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Apr 14, 2020

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.



chernobyl kinsman posted:

i have a Gigabyte B450M DS3h motherboard and a mustex 903 case. do the wires labeled power, reset, power LED, etc., go into the motherboard or the power source?

also theres a plug in the case labeled "dxd" and i have no idea what that does. i honestly dontknow what im doing

Motherboard, the manual tells you which goes where.

No idea about dxd. Googles not coming back with anything either.

Party Boat
Oct 31, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


chernobyl kinsman posted:

i have a Gigabyte B450M DS3h motherboard and a mustex 903 case. do the wires labeled power, reset, power LED, etc., go into the motherboard or the power source?

There should be a header with pins labelled "front panel" (usually in a corner). You'll need to check your motherboard manual to see which cables go where on it.

chernobyl kinsman posted:

also theres a plug in the case labeled "dxd" and i have no idea what that does. i honestly dontknow what im doing

DXD might be "digital extreme definition" so could be an audio cable? If it's another small one coming from the front panel it's probably what connects the front headphone / mic ports to the motherboard. Again the manual will tell you exactly where it needs to be plugged.

chernobyl kinsman
Mar 18, 2007

a friend of the friendly atom



Soiled Meat

e: double post

chernobyl kinsman
Mar 18, 2007

a friend of the friendly atom



Soiled Meat

ItBreathes posted:

Motherboard, the manual tells you which goes where.

No idea about dxd. Googles not coming back with anything either.

Party Boat posted:

There should be a header with pins labelled "front panel" (usually in a corner). You'll need to check your motherboard manual to see which cables go where on it.


DXD might be "digital extreme definition" so could be an audio cable? If it's another small one coming from the front panel it's probably what connects the front headphone / mic ports to the motherboard. Again the manual will tell you exactly where it needs to be plugged.

got it thanks guys. a couple of the plugs don't say +/- on them, but they have a little arrow over one of the pins. i'm assuming that's +?

drd doesn't seem to fit anything

Party Boat
Oct 31, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


Okay so take a look at the motherboard layout diagram on page 4. Near the bottom right is a bit labelled F_PANEL - that's where the little cables like power switch, LED etc go. There's another diagram on page 16 that details exactly what goes where. You might not have cables for every pin on the header - that's okay.

Going back to the motherboard diagram, at the bottom left there's a header labelled F_AUDIO. Check and see if your mystery DXD cable matches the pin layout of it.

Edit: glad you got it sorted! Yeah the arrow means +

Stroop There It Is
Mar 11, 2012






I'm considering building a new 1440p gaming PC since, well, I originally built the one I'm posting on in 2011 and it's reaching its limit for what upgrades can do. I'll post again once I have a coherent parts list, but two questions in the meantime:

1) Should I still trust logicalincrements.com for general parts/build recommendations? I'm using it as a starting point and swapping (compatible) stuff out as I see fit, not thinking it's computer-building gospel.

2) Is there any reason to get a mobo with built-in wifi, or should I just get the $20 cheaper version and get a reasonable PCI-e wireless card? Or both?

chernobyl kinsman
Mar 18, 2007

a friend of the friendly atom



Soiled Meat

Party Boat posted:

Okay so take a look at the motherboard layout diagram on page 4. Near the bottom right is a bit labelled F_PANEL - that's where the little cables like power switch, LED etc go. There's another diagram on page 16 that details exactly what goes where. You might not have cables for every pin on the header - that's okay.

Going back to the motherboard diagram, at the bottom left there's a header labelled F_AUDIO. Check and see if your mystery DXD cable matches the pin layout of it.

Edit: glad you got it sorted! Yeah the arrow means +

awesome thanks. the motherboard just came with a little abbreviated manual that lacked the F_PANEL diagram; should've thought to look online. the only thing i still can't figure out is where the case is going to draw power for the fans from, since the only open plug i have is the dxd one, which doesn't seem to fit the audio. it doesnt fit SYS_FAN or CPU_fan, either

i don't have all the pieces for this thing yet. is it essential to mount an HSF on the CPU? the case itself has six fans, and the pcpartpicker list i put this together from didn't have one.

i also cannot find the speaker wire lol

chernobyl kinsman fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Apr 14, 2020

Party Boat
Oct 31, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


Any chance you could post a photo of the mystery cable? It's difficult to puzzle out what it could be without any visuals. It might be power for your fan controller which would plug into the PSU, but in that case there should definitely be another cable for SYS_FAN to allow the motherboard to control the fans.

You need a cooler on your CPU. The ambient cooling provided by case fans simply isn't sufficient - there's a reason coolers are attached to CPUs with ultra-conductive thermal paste

Party Boat
Oct 31, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


If you mean the speaker pins on the F_PANEL header you might not have one, it's for an internal speaker that beeps error codes if the system can't boot. They're less common these days and aren't necessary.

chernobyl kinsman
Mar 18, 2007

a friend of the friendly atom



Soiled Meat

Party Boat posted:

Any chance you could post a photo of the mystery cable? It's difficult to puzzle out what it could be without any visuals. It might be power for your fan controller which would plug into the PSU, but in that case there should definitely be another cable for SYS_FAN to allow the motherboard to control the fans.

yeah sure its this thing https://imgur.com/a/cUN8lDZ

its part of this weird mess of wires that run to all of the fans. if i unplug one of them, the female plug fits on SYS_FAN, i think

oh and re: the hsf i had forgotten that the processor i ordered (ryzen 2600) comes with one so nevermind

chernobyl kinsman fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Apr 14, 2020

Party Boat
Oct 31, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


edited out as probably wrong

Party Boat fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Apr 14, 2020

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


My guess is that it's for the RGB control button on the top of the case. Does each fan have two cables coming from it?

chernobyl kinsman
Mar 18, 2007

a friend of the friendly atom



Soiled Meat

Stickman posted:

My guess is that it's for the RGB control button on the top of the case. Does each fan have two cables coming from it?

yeah. and then those cables all go into that mess i'm holding in the last pic. theres only one available plug, and its the male one in the first album

chernobyl kinsman
Mar 18, 2007

a friend of the friendly atom



Soiled Meat

ok wait i found something i missed. there's also this thing attached to the fan wires:



these are all clearly the wires for the fans but without unplugging some of them there doesnt seem to be any way to connect them to the cpu

the case is this goofy thing

e: nevermind that plug just goes to the PSU. problem solved. thanks guys

chernobyl kinsman fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Apr 14, 2020

IntangiblePanda
Nov 3, 2009


Hey, just need some quick advice:

I used to do a lot of gaming, but haven't in the last five or so years. Older, job, kids, etc. Now I'm stuck in quarantine with a steam library of older games that I can't play since I switched to a budget/work PC I built several years ago. I'm way out of the loop for recent stuff.

All I want to do is play my old games like Minecraft and Fallout New Vegas and other games of that era. I currently have an A6-5400k and a Radeon HD 5450 in an MS-7721 with 12 gigs of RAM. I think just upgrading the graphics card would get me where I want to be, but it's all so old I don't know what would work.

Basically, what's the best graphics card that will work with my older motherboard? Thank you.

Dr Leisure Suit
Sep 21, 2013


Klyith posted:

If your budget is $1k, take a look at mikeC's $1k build as a better starting point than the pcpartspicker ones. The prices are out of date, so some things need to be switched around for things that are currently cheaper / in stock at newegg.

In particular the pcpartpicker parametric builds are horrible for storage, get a big decent-quality SSD rather than a tiny SSD and a dumb HDD.

edit: here's an up-to-date version of the MikeC $1k build edit2 durrr forgot ram first time

Thanks for yours and MiakeC's help, I sent this to my friend and she helped me put together and build based on that and some parts she had. Also lmao new egg asking me if I wanted to buy face masks from them.

Palladium
May 8, 2012


IntangiblePanda posted:

Hey, just need some quick advice:

I used to do a lot of gaming, but haven't in the last five or so years. Older, job, kids, etc. Now I'm stuck in quarantine with a steam library of older games that I can't play since I switched to a budget/work PC I built several years ago. I'm way out of the loop for recent stuff.

All I want to do is play my old games like Minecraft and Fallout New Vegas and other games of that era. I currently have an A6-5400k and a Radeon HD 5450 in an MS-7721 with 12 gigs of RAM. I think just upgrading the graphics card would get me where I want to be, but it's all so old I don't know what would work.

Basically, what's the best graphics card that will work with my older motherboard? Thank you.

Firstly you need to find out the make of your PSU. Usually PCs that old and weak won't have much leftover power headroom to run anything more than slot powered <75W cards. Best bet would to find a cheap used 750 Ti.

KingKapalone
Dec 20, 2005
1/16 Native American + 1/2 Hungarian = Totally Badass

Rexxed posted:

Noctua's going to be the way to go for that, but definitely check if you've got a 2, 3, or 4 pin fan. Either way the Noctua's support PWM if you have it.
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=noctua+80mm

Currently the fans are 3 pin but they're plugged into 4 pin connectors. Here's what the mobo says:

5x 4-pin fan headers (up to 5 fans), 5 fans with tachometer status monitoring, Low noise fan speed control, Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) fan connectors, Status monitoring for on/off control, Status monitoring for speed control, Support 3-pin fans (w/o speed control)

I should go with 4pin PWM like this then? https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-.../dp/B00KF7MVI2/ And I isolated the one making the noise, but if I replace both the new ones should be quieter most of the time from the PWM?

IntangiblePanda
Nov 3, 2009


Palladium posted:

Firstly you need to find out the make of your PSU. Usually PCs that old and weak won't have much leftover power headroom to run anything more than slot powered <75W cards. Best bet would to find a cheap used 750 Ti.

Thanks, it's a Wiston WT480q. 480 watt. Doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. Am I boned?

HerniaFlange
Aug 4, 2013

You when you read my posts:

Hi-ho, I'm a dweeb in the US looking to build a mid-level gaming PC for $800-1050 (this will be a blueray drive for movie watching reasons, I have a monitor, mouse and keyboard already). My laptop is finally seeming to give up the ghost, and it's probably time to have a proper desktop PC again. I have a couple specific questions about what I'm looking for. For a start, I'm interested in doing some hobby game dev stuff and I'm concerned if I need to be looking for something on the more powerful end . I'm pretty happy with capping out at 1080p/60hz for gaming, and I'm hoping that should be pretty doable across the board with a $800 build. That having been said, I'd also like to get into Unity developing, and I don't know if I need to be able to stretch out more for the sake of dealing with unoptomized builds, although I guess I don't know if that's really a thing with Unity development. I've been talking with my brother who made a PC a year or two ago, and he had some good advice; he says I should really pick a graphics card and build around that, so I plan on doing that. Is there a specific chipset/manufacturer who's better for Unity stuff, or is that not worth worrying about for Unity? He also said it was worth dropping about $500 on a card, and putting a couple parameters into PCPartPicker this was the first thing on the list:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zg...-super-gaming-x
Is there anything that would be worth putting more money into to shave about $100-200 off of the card budget? (I know if I decide to try for the $800 build that's definitely going to need to happen.) Otherwise the list looks mostly the same outside of chipset names and the last time I had to do anything like this was 13 years ago so I'm more than a little out of the loop; the last time any of this stuff made sense to me was when Voodoo Labs was exiting the market so that was fun. I plan on following the advice in the introductory posts for processors and RAM. I'm also hoping to make a MicroATX build, but I'm happy to drop it if it ends up limiting what I can do. Hopefully I'm not being too vague. Thanks for any advice you might have, and apologies if it the Unity stuff was already answered in the thread, just figured it would be easier to ask than sift through the whole thread.

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


IntangiblePanda posted:

Thanks, it's a Wiston WT480q. 480 watt. Doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. Am I boned?

You're pretty boned as far as putting any GPU that needs power in there. Thanks to google the specs are findable, and hoo boy that is not a modern PSU. 16 amps on the 12V is only 192 watts, which means that even if that thing had PCIe connectors (which I don't think it does), you wouldn't want to plug them into a GPU.

Do not under any circumstances get molex-to-pcie power adapters for a GPU, because your PSU is in no way a 480 watt PSU.


OTOH even the lowest-power modern video card is a massive improvement over what you've got, and would play fallout NV and other games of that vintage fine. A RX 550 for under $100 is like 10 times more performance than what you have now. With your ancient CPU that's about the right level of upgrade.

Anything more is useless money, and better to just put towards a complete low-budget build.

Klyith fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Apr 15, 2020

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.



HerniaFlange posted:

Hi-ho, I'm a dweeb in the US looking to build a mid-level gaming PC for $800-1050 (this will be a blueray drive for movie watching reasons, I have a monitor, mouse and keyboard already). My laptop is finally seeming to give up the ghost, and it's probably time to have a proper desktop PC again. I have a couple specific questions about what I'm looking for. For a start, I'm interested in doing some hobby game dev stuff and I'm concerned if I need to be looking for something on the more powerful end . I'm pretty happy with capping out at 1080p/60hz for gaming, and I'm hoping that should be pretty doable across the board with a $800 build. That having been said, I'd also like to get into Unity developing, and I don't know if I need to be able to stretch out more for the sake of dealing with unoptomized builds, although I guess I don't know if that's really a thing with Unity development. I've been talking with my brother who made a PC a year or two ago, and he had some good advice; he says I should really pick a graphics card and build around that, so I plan on doing that. Is there a specific chipset/manufacturer who's better for Unity stuff, or is that not worth worrying about for Unity? He also said it was worth dropping about $500 on a card, and putting a couple parameters into PCPartPicker this was the first thing on the list:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zg...-super-gaming-x
Is there anything that would be worth putting more money into to shave about $100-200 off of the card budget? (I know if I decide to try for the $800 build that's definitely going to need to happen.) Otherwise the list looks mostly the same outside of chipset names and the last time I had to do anything like this was 13 years ago so I'm more than a little out of the loop; the last time any of this stuff made sense to me was when Voodoo Labs was exiting the market so that was fun. I plan on following the advice in the introductory posts for processors and RAM. I'm also hoping to make a MicroATX build, but I'm happy to drop it if it ends up limiting what I can do. Hopefully I'm not being too vague. Thanks for any advice you might have, and apologies if it the Unity stuff was already answered in the thread, just figured it would be easier to ask than sift through the whole thread.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($115.00)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($76.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Inland Premium 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($144.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB STRIX GAMING ADVANCED Video Card ($251.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($110.39 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($102.76 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($25.00)
Total: $1002.10
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-14 23:45 EDT-0400

Lots of places to shave a few bucks but gently caress is everything out of stock right now.

Here's an $900 mATX build that should have identical performance in use.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($79.97 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($76.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($127.27 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB STRIX GAMING ADVANCED Video Card ($251.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($68.81 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($102.76 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($25.00)
Total: $907.77
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-14 23:52 EDT-0400

The GPU is priced a bit high at $250, but all the other ones in stock are only $240, and its a nice cooler.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



KingKapalone posted:

Currently the fans are 3 pin but they're plugged into 4 pin connectors. Here's what the mobo says:

5x 4-pin fan headers (up to 5 fans), 5 fans with tachometer status monitoring, Low noise fan speed control, Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) fan connectors, Status monitoring for on/off control, Status monitoring for speed control, Support 3-pin fans (w/o speed control)

I should go with 4pin PWM like this then? https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-.../dp/B00KF7MVI2/ And I isolated the one making the noise, but if I replace both the new ones should be quieter most of the time from the PWM?

PWM just lets it monitor the tach and speed it up and down as it wants to. That one will be fine, I think the A8 (brown kind) is probably quieter due to the rubberized corner pads and extra mounting accessories in the box like the rubbery screw replacements, but the R8 will still be super quiet and good.

IntangiblePanda
Nov 3, 2009


Klyith posted:

You're pretty boned as far as putting any GPU that needs power in there. Thanks to google the specs are findable, and hoo boy that is not a modern PSU. 16 amps on the 12V is only 192 watts, which means that even if that thing had PCIe connectors (which I don't think it does), you wouldn't want to plug them into a GPU.

Do not under any circumstances get molex-to-pcie power adapters for a GPU, because your PSU is in no way a 480 watt PSU.


OTOH even the lowest-power modern video card is a massive improvement over what you've got, and would play fallout NV and other games of that vintage fine. A RX 550 for under $100 is like 10 times more performance than what you have now. With your ancient CPU that's about the right level of upgrade.

Anything more is useless money, and better to just put towards a complete low-budget build.


Cool, thank you for the good information.

HerniaFlange
Aug 4, 2013

You when you read my posts:

ItBreathes posted:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($115.00)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($76.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Inland Premium 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($144.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB STRIX GAMING ADVANCED Video Card ($251.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($110.39 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($102.76 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($25.00)
Total: $1002.10
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-14 23:45 EDT-0400

Lots of places to shave a few bucks but gently caress is everything out of stock right now.

Here's an $900 mATX build that should have identical performance in use.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($79.97 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($76.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($127.27 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB STRIX GAMING ADVANCED Video Card ($251.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($68.81 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($102.76 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($25.00)
Total: $907.77
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
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The GPU is priced a bit high at $250, but all the other ones in stock are only $240, and its a nice cooler.

Oh wow, thanks! So I guess even to get a decent $1000 build the graphics card needed to be cheaper. I was planning on spreading this across 2 pay periods so I should probably be able to wiggle things around and get the beefier card, would that be worth it or would that be overkill for what I described I was looking for?

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week


HerniaFlange posted:

Oh wow, thanks! So I guess even to get a decent $1000 build the graphics card needed to be cheaper. I was planning on spreading this across 2 pay periods so I should probably be able to wiggle things around and get the beefier card, would that be worth it or would that be overkill for what I described I was looking for?

So as a amateur game dev you're not gonna be making the next GTA, so a high-performance video card isn't really the most necessary thing. A 2060Super is worth price for the performance increase, but only for the games you're playing for fun. You won't need it for dev work.


The question I might ask instead is memory. The unity dev environment seems like a memory hungry son of a gun. A friend of mine did a brief bit of freelance work for a unity project and called me in to add memory for his machine. His only had 8g though and we went up to 24g, so possibly 16 would have been fine. Not really sure, that was my only experience with it. What I'd do is ask the peeps in the gamedev thread if they'd recommend over 16g for unity dev work.

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.



^^^No idea about that, worth looking into.

HerniaFlange posted:

Oh wow, thanks! So I guess even to get a decent $1000 build the graphics card needed to be cheaper. I was planning on spreading this across 2 pay periods so I should probably be able to wiggle things around and get the beefier card, would that be worth it or would that be overkill for what I described I was looking for?

A $500 gpu only makes sense if you've got a 1440p144 monitor, the one I have listed will max out 1080p60 all day long.

HerniaFlange
Aug 4, 2013

You when you read my posts:

Klyith posted:

So as a amateur game dev you're not gonna be making the next GTA, so a high-performance video card isn't really the most necessary thing. A 2060Super is worth price for the performance increase, but only for the games you're playing for fun. You won't need it for dev work.


The question I might ask instead is memory. The unity dev environment seems like a memory hungry son of a gun. A friend of mine did a brief bit of freelance work for a unity project and called me in to add memory for his machine. His only had 8g though and we went up to 24g, so possibly 16 would have been fine. Not really sure, that was my only experience with it. What I'd do is ask the peeps in the gamedev thread if they'd recommend over 16g for unity dev work.

That's a good point, I'll ask over there. Also I keep misreading the text for your avatar as WGBH which is the local PBS station and it messes with me a little.


ItBreathes posted:

^^^No idea about that, worth looking into.


A $500 gpu only makes sense if you've got a 1440p144 monitor, the one I have listed will max out 1080p60 all day long.

Okay, good to know! The stuff I'm most interested in playing is fighters (as the red text might inform) and those are all designed to work at 60fps so that should be plenty if that's the case. Those and indie stuff, which usually isn't demanding in any way, but my laptop's literally having trouble playing Environmental Station Alpha so it's time to move up to something usable.

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Strong Sauce
Jul 2, 2003

You know I am not really your father.


Ebola Dog posted:

There's a person on Reddit who has lots of useful info on different SSDs including a nice flowchart to help pick the best one for your needs.

Palladium posted:

Most of the time the gold standard is the Crucial MX500. Samsungs are usually too overpriced (their QVO line is especially trashy because it uses really slow QLC NAND and yet it sells at MX500 prices) and stuff from other brands aren't really that much cheaper than the MX500 to justify their other shortcomings like slower performance or worse support.

thanks. these are pretty informative posts.. looking at it, it does seem like MX500 is at the best performance/dollar amount. but i think i'm going to mostly use this for storage and to watch videos.. is an mx500 a bit overkill? or does something like getting a drive that has QLC, which is poorer for writes but fine for reads (according to that dude's guide) good enough?

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