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MikeC
Jul 19, 2004

ACTUALLY IS MIKE CERNOVICH. WAS TOO STUPID TO FIGURE OUT THAT THE TRUMP LOVER AVATAR WAS THE STUPID NEWBIE AVATAR

Mu Zeta posted:

https://asset.msi.com/pdf/main/glob...50-TOMAHAWK-MAX

It says it supports all first, second, and third gen Ryzen.

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/sup...MAX#support-cpu

The 2700X is conspicuously missing from the official list.

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Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Adus posted:

Thank you! The advice is really appreciated. I've been out of the hardware game for so long since I haven't built a machine in 6 years. The only thing I've ever changed in this machine is the PSU.

I plan on getting a new monitor regardless, but just out of curiosity: If the resolution/refresh isn't higher, then I'm assuming what you're saying is it won't really take advantage of the video card's capability.

The monitor I have right now is a 1080/60Hz. If I were to keep it as a second monitor for non-game stuff (like watching videos while playing a game like I mentioned above) would it work, or do two displays of different refresh rates conflict and cause issues in some way?

You're welcome! Yes, a 2070 Super is an overkill for 1080/60Hz right now, but it's a decent choice for 1440p or high-refresh 1080p. Here's some benchmarks for the 2070 Super / 5700 XT / 2060 Super and 5700 on Ultra/High settings at 1080p and 1440p.

A second monitor won't cause problems directly, but there's an issue where playing video on the 60Hz monitor will lock the high-refresh monitor to 60Hz, which is extremely annoying. If you want to watch videos while you're playing games, you'd be better off hooking up your 60Hz monitor to your old computer or a laptop side-by-side with your gaming machine. Some people have also reported that their cards refuse to idle when running two screens with different refresh rates, but I think that might have been fixed with driver updates?

E: Apparently people claim there are various fixes like "using Firefox" or "turning off browser hardware acceleration", but I can't speak to the veracity of their claims.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


MikeC posted:

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/sup...MAX#support-cpu

The 2700X is conspicuously missing from the official list.

There's apparently at least one Redditor who put them together and doesn't seem to have had any problems after a few weeks.

E: But yeah, it's weird. I'm inclined to think that it's just a list error on MSi's part, though - it's missing from the B450-A Pro MAX's compatibility list but is on the B450 Gaming Plus MAX's list, and they're literally the same board.

Stickman fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Nov 26, 2019

Killer_B
May 22, 2005


What's a good choice for a NUC-style mini itx build, that is possibly more Ryzen-centric?

As my mom's current build is still running W7, on pretty old hardware at this point, I'm looking at something that's going to be pretty basic, but smaller and quieter.

I've a pretty good idea about cpu/mb so far - as well as getting an M2 SSD, but which cases (bonus for power-brick style power supplies) would best fit this scenario?

Edit : If going Intel, or even just getting a NUC setup is a better bet, that's fine too.

Killer_B fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Nov 26, 2019

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Killer_B posted:

What's a good choice for a NUC-style mini itx build, that is more Ryzen-centric?

As my mom's current build is still running W7, on pretty old hardware at this point, I'm looking at something that's going to be pretty basic, but smaller and quieter.

I've a pretty good idea about cpu/mb so far, but which cases (bonus for power-brick style power supplies) would best fit this?

It's not exactly a NUC, but the ASRock Deskmini A300 is pretty darn tiny and comes with a motherboard and 300W brick psu for only $150. It uses 260-pin SODimm laptop DDR4, so make sure you get something compatible (if she wants to play 3d games, get a 2x8 3000 or 3200 kit since the APU is often bottlenecked by ram speed). Despite the listed cooler clearance, it will actually fit a 2400g's stock cooler if you remove the fan shroud!

With a 2200g, 2x8 3000 RAM, and a 500GB M.2 SSD it comes to ~$350. You could save a bit by dropping to 2x4 ram if she doesn't need 16GB or bump up the SSD to 1TB for an extra $45.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($77.98 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston A2000 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Case, Motherboard, PSU: ASRock Deskmini A300W ($149.99)
Total: $352.95

E: Is there a reason you want a NUC rather than a larger case?

Stickman fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Nov 26, 2019

Demostrs
Mar 30, 2011

by Nyc_Tattoo


Azran posted:

Thank you very much! I just sent her your recommendations, you rock

No probs! Also, my late night crawl through the internet resulted in me finding this website: https://compragamer.com/

Looks like they'll assemble a parts list you create for them for a very nominal fee (like $7).



They don't have the exact same parts as New Bytes, but these will be fine together. Especially because if the B350 board has an old BIOS, they'll certainly update it so that it works with a 2200G!

Demostrs fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Nov 26, 2019

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012





Xerophyte posted:

Depends on your price point and how annoyed you are by compile times and other potentially CPU-bound tasks like compression and the like, I guess. High-core mainstream Ryzen is certainly more cost-effective than Threadripper but you will see concrete gains by getting even more cores.

I threw together some rough 16 and 32 core alternatives just so you know what you're going to be looking at. Cooler, motherboard and memory choices are pretty arbitrary. You do need an aftermarket cooler for both of these, and your case doesn't support 360 AIOs if you want liquid (and you probably do). I went for 64 GB of memory buy you may be fine with 32 GB depending on what you do. I'd be limited at 32, but I work on memory intensive CPU renderering crap.

There's also the option of getting a 12 or 8 core for a cheaper upgrade, or the very expensive 24-core Threadripper 3960X instead of the extremely expensive 3970X on the high end, but if you're doing core-hungry things and considering Threadripper to begin with then I think it's either a 3950X for a price/performance sweet spot or going to the top of the line given the costs you're looking at for a new motherboard, PSU, cooling and so on in the first place.

With all that caveated, a 16-core update would be something like this:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3950X 3.5 GHz 16-Core Processor ($750.00)
CPU Cooler: Fractal Design Celsius S24 87.6 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.37 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($269.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Corsair 550D ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1359.35

Estimated power consumption is 430W so the old PSU should work fine.

A 32-core update would be something like this:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3970X 3.7 GHz 32-Core Processor ($1999.00 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Fractal Design Celsius S24 87.6 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.37 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock TRX40 TAICHI ATX sTRX4 Motherboard ($500.00)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($269.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Corsair 550D ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($126.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $3015.35

600W estimated consumption so I figured a new PSU was justified.

I didn't find any direct compilation comparisons for those two CPUs precisely, but I did find these for new and old Threadrippers vs 12-core Ryzen and the new Intel HEDT processor:


I think a reasonable estimate for the 3950X is somewhere ahead of the Threadripper 2XXXs. Call LLVM a 4 minute build on a 3900X, a 3 minute build on a 3950X and a 2 minute build on a 3990X. Things like compression and encoding/decoding probably clock in at similar differences. Is a 50%ish speed gain in those workflows worth $1700 (more if in the EU, or countries shortly leaving it) for you?

A slight note, if you are building Threadripper PCs, you absolutely should have a cooler that has a sTR4 or TR4 baseplate on it. Total IHS coverage is much more important than how big your radiator is (leaving an air gap can introduce a huge temperature variation across the IHS and cause premature throttling). That Fractal Design has an AM4 pump housing and probably comes with a TR4 bracket in the box, so while it would fit (be able to bolt on) it would leave a big gap of IHS exposed to air around the edges.

orange juche fucked around with this message at 10:49 on Nov 26, 2019

bus hustler
Mar 14, 2019




This does work, it's a windows thing. I even tried a discreet GPU for each monitor and it didn't work.

On the 60hz display I have it set to use GPU scaling (not monitor) and have h/w acceleration disabled in FF. I can confirm with testUFO that it resolves the issue, though you give up a few overall FPS if you don't have a crazy CPU.

A no brainer tradeoff though as being locked at 60fps if I want to watch a video stinks out loud.

Oxyclean
Sep 23, 2007




At the risk of getting a bit repetitive, this is my parts list after recommendations and revisions, feel like it's worth a final check before I drop a bunch of dosh

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($249.75 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($139.50 @ Vuugo)
Graphics: Importing a GTX 1070 from my existing machine
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($108.92 @ Mike's Computer Shop)
Total: $878.14
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-26 14:04 EST-0500

I'm looking at closer to 915$ (1040$ after tax and shipping) from Newegg.ca, which seems to already be in Black Friday mode. My budget was 1000$ so this is pushing it a touch, but I don't know if I really want to skimp since I want something that will last me a good while (with a video card upgrade some time down the road.)
Use is: Gaming, 2 monitor setup 1080/60, plenty of multitasking, not much inclination to overclock

I saw some people mention the Tomahawk as a cheaper option for 570s but Im not seeing DDR-3600 under speeds on pcparts picker (skips from 3466 to 4000) and I believe it was mentioned it had one less M2 (not a big deal) and worse onboard audio (unsure what to think.)

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust


Grimey Drawer

The Max does support it. Don't worry about audio you can't tell the difference unless you have really fancy speakers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gejkP3PhrCo#t=1551s

Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Nov 26, 2019

Oddhair
Mar 21, 2004



Previous Post in this thread

PCPartsPicker link, only needing a few pieces: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9vwzf9
Have Case, PSU(s), keyboard, SSDs, HDs, optical.


Country: US
Use case: Some gaming et al, home desktop general stuff
MicroCenter nearby?: Yes
Budget: Could go as high as $700, would rather keep it kind of low.
Monitor info: Have new Samsung 4K TV, have 1440P Acer monitor but I believe it tops out at 120 Hz

Looking for sanity check:
Game mostly on console, also testing out my two Titan Z cards I got (see previous posts in this iteration of thread) and figured I may as well, PCs are cheap as gently caress. Any glaring problems with this build? If the Titan Z cards won't play nice, singly or doubled up, I can fall back to my AMD 7870 (predates Rx nomenclature, roughly like an R7 270 or R7 280, IIRC) and plan on upgrading later. I don't really need my PC to spit out mad 4K though I'm not opposed, it's just such a steep price ramp for high settings and 4K.
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-9400F 2.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($144.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($185.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $408.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-26 15:35 EST-0500

Ninja edit: $334.98 in town picked up plus 8.25% tax.
Real edit: of course it's a 16GB kit, not two 8GB DIMMs

Oddhair fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Nov 26, 2019

KingKapalone
Dec 20, 2005
1/16 Native American + 1/2 Hungarian = Totally Badass

Please help with my storage use case. In my desktop I have a 500GB SSD for Windows and my main games, an old 120GB SSD I have a few games on, and two OLD 1TB HDDs with some rarely played games and then random other stuff. I want to replace and consolidate those two HDDs.

- I have a separate NAS with 16TB of space, so I don't need lots on my desktop.
- I feel like a 2-4TB drive would be more than enough.
- I don't want to spend $200 on a 2TB SSD
- Would I want a 7200rpm drive since a couple games would be on it?

Was hoping for sales, but only seeing those on SSDs. It looks like this would be the best option based on Price/GB https://pcpartpicker.com/product/j2...ive-st3000dm008

There's also this hybrid drive that I was reading about : https://www.newegg.com/seagate-fire...N82E16822179110

Maybe I should just get a 1TB SSD since my 500GB SSD is going to fill up eventually...

KingKapalone fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Nov 26, 2019

TheFluff
Dec 13, 2006

FRIENDS, LISTEN TO ME
I AM A SEAGULL
OF WEALTH AND TASTE


Oddhair posted:

Previous Post in this thread

PCPartsPicker link, only needing a few pieces: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9vwzf9
Have Case, PSU(s), keyboard, SSDs, HDs, optical.


Country: US
Use case: Some gaming et al, home desktop general stuff
MicroCenter nearby?: Yes
Budget: Could go as high as $700, would rather keep it kind of low.
Monitor info: Have new Samsung 4K TV, have 1440P Acer monitor but I believe it tops out at 120 Hz

Looking for sanity check:
Game mostly on console, also testing out my two Titan Z cards I got (see previous posts in this iteration of thread) and figured I may as well, PCs are cheap as gently caress. Any glaring problems with this build? If the Titan Z cards won't play nice, singly or doubled up, I can fall back to my AMD 7870 (predates Rx nomenclature, roughly like an R7 270 or R7 280, IIRC) and plan on upgrading later. I don't really need my PC to spit out mad 4K though I'm not opposed, it's just such a steep price ramp for high settings and 4K.
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-9400F 2.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($144.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($185.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $408.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-26 15:35 EST-0500

Ninja edit: $334.98 in town picked up plus 8.25% tax.

The 9400F doesn't make any sense when you can get a Ryzen 5 2600 for $20 less, or a 3600 for $195. If you for some reason don't want an AMD CPU, don't get a $185 overclocking motherboard for a $140 locked CPU. Get the cheapest Z370 or Z390 board you can find in that case. Also $80 is too much for 16GB of DDR4-2666, you can get 16GB of DDR4-3200 for $60 these days.

This would be significantly better performance (slightly better single thread, significantly better multi-threaded) for about the same money:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($81.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $390.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

Downgrade to a 2600 and DDR4-3200 if you want to save $100.

e: 4K is basically always GPU bottlenecked and I don't think you'll have a good time with dual Titan Z's in SLI at all. It basically doesn't work except in benchmarks these days. I would expect a single Titan Z to be underdimensioned for 1440p 120Hz and completely inadequate for 4K 60Hz.

TheFluff fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Nov 26, 2019

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Oxyclean posted:

At the risk of getting a bit repetitive, this is my parts list after recommendations and revisions, feel like it's worth a final check before I drop a bunch of dosh

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($249.75 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($139.50 @ Vuugo)
Graphics: Importing a GTX 1070 from my existing machine
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($108.92 @ Mike's Computer Shop)
Total: $878.14
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-26 14:04 EST-0500

I'm looking at closer to 915$ (1040$ after tax and shipping) from Newegg.ca, which seems to already be in Black Friday mode. My budget was 1000$ so this is pushing it a touch, but I don't know if I really want to skimp since I want something that will last me a good while (with a video card upgrade some time down the road.)
Use is: Gaming, 2 monitor setup 1080/60, plenty of multitasking, not much inclination to overclock

I saw some people mention the Tomahawk as a cheaper option for 570s but Im not seeing DDR-3600 under speeds on pcparts picker (skips from 3466 to 4000) and I believe it was mentioned it had one less M2 (not a big deal) and worse onboard audio (unsure what to think.)

The dual M.2's and the VRM upgrade are the main advantages of the X570, so if you don't care about those then I'd just save the $55. The difference in audio quality is relatively minor unless you're extra sensitive, in which case you'd probably want an external DAC/AMP combo anyway. PCIe 4.0 isn't really useful outside of fringe cases, and probably won't be for years. The B450 Pro Carbon AC for $180 is a decent intermediate option - it has the audio and VRM boost, two M.2 slots, and built-in wifi. Since it's not a MAX board it'll have a keyboard-only bios, though, and there's a chance it won't come 3rd-gen read, but you can use a usb stick and the cpu-less flash button to upgrade the bios.

I'd consider spending an extra $5 for an HP ex920. You won't notice a performance difference in most applications, but it'll be a small boost to boot times and hugely speed up large-file operations and Doom 2016's initial loading time. It'll also get you a 5-year vs 3-year warranty.

Otherwise, looks great and I don't really see anywhere that I'd recommend shaving for savings.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Oddhair posted:

Looking for sanity check:
Game mostly on console, also testing out my two Titan Z cards I got (see previous posts in this iteration of thread) and figured I may as well, PCs are cheap as gently caress. Any glaring problems with this build? If the Titan Z cards won't play nice, singly or doubled up, I can fall back to my AMD 7870 (predates Rx nomenclature, roughly like an R7 270 or R7 280, IIRC) and plan on upgrading later. I don't really need my PC to spit out mad 4K though I'm not opposed, it's just such a steep price ramp for high settings and 4K.

Were you the one with the waterblock Zs? Even if they're waterblocked, if you're not using them for compute I suspect that whatever Turing/Navi card you could buy after reselling them would be an enormous gaming upgrade.

Pylons
Mar 16, 2009




Made a few small revisions to the build I posted yesterday. Mostly got talked out of the 2080 Super, and swapped the Supernova G3 for the Corsair.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($77.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: SanDisk Ultra 3D 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Walmart)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB WINDFORCE OC 3X Video Card ($499.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($112.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1289.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-26 16:11 EST-0500

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


KingKapalone posted:

Please help with my storage use case. In my desktop I have a 500GB SSD for Windows and my main games, an old 120GB SSD I have a few games on, and two OLD 1TB HDDs with some rarely played games and then random other stuff. I want to replace and consolidate those two HDDs.

- I have a separate NAS with 16TB of space, so I don't need lots on my desktop.
- I feel like a 2-4TB drive would be more than enough.
- I don't want to spend $200 on a 2TB SSD
- Would I want a 7200rpm drive since a couple games would be on it?

Was hoping for sales, but only seeing those on SSDs. It looks like this would be the best option based on Price/GB https://pcpartpicker.com/product/j2...ive-st3000dm008

There's also this hybrid drive that I was reading about : https://www.newegg.com/seagate-fire...N82E16822179110

Maybe I should just get a 1TB SSD since my 500GB SSD is going to fill up eventually...

There's not much better in the 2-3TB range, but you could get a 4TB for the same price by shucking this WD Elements. They're often WD blues, though and you could pick one of those up for only $5 more if you'd like the warranty without hassling with putting it back in the enclosure.

Spiritus Nox
Sep 2, 2011



Spiritus Nox posted:

Not enough connectors, and this is just a secondary drive - I've already got an M2 SSD running my OS from when I built this computer recently, just thought I'd use the thanksgiving sales window to replace one of my old hard drives I carried over from my old machine.

So there's nothing weird I have to worry about with having to partition the drive or anything that I can't do over USB? Been a couple of years since I've installed an entirely new drive.

Update to this conversation: I've got the new drive (A samsung 860 QVO fwiw) connected via a SATA to USB adapter, and windows makes the usual chime when I connect it, but I can't actually see it in explorer or disk manager, so I can't transfer any of my data over. Any ideas on what I might be missing? Can't be a power thing can it? I was under the impression that's not a concern for SSDs.

Edit: Nevermind, I was dumb and was looking at the list of volumes instead of the list of disks. Found the disk, initialized it, transferring my stuff now.

Spiritus Nox fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Nov 26, 2019

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Are you plugging it into a usb 3.0 port rather than a 2.0 port? It's possible that it would have issues with 2.0. I'd also try various ports + restarting if you haven't yet - Windows 10 usb drivers can be fickle sometimes. It's unlikely to be a power issue unless there's something wrong with the adapter itself.

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust


Grimey Drawer

Pylons posted:

Made a few small revisions to the build I posted yesterday. Mostly got talked out of the 2080 Super, and swapped the Supernova G3 for the Corsair.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($77.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: SanDisk Ultra 3D 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Walmart)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB WINDFORCE OC 3X Video Card ($499.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($112.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1289.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-26 16:11 EST-0500

e: was wrong about PSU. Looks good but I don't think the Sandisk is all that amazing a deal. I rather have an NVME ssd and maybe a 1TB sata ssd to go with it like a Crucial MX500.

Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Nov 26, 2019

Pylons
Mar 16, 2009




Mu Zeta posted:

e: was wrong about PSU. Looks good but I don't think the Sandisk is all that amazing a deal. I rather have an NVME ssd and maybe a 1TB sata ssd to go with it like a Crucial MX500.

I originally had a 1TB NVME SSD and another SATA SSD but I went with the Sandisk for simplicity, but I might also go with your suggestion.

Oddhair
Mar 21, 2004



TheFluff posted:

The 9400F doesn't make any sense when you can get a Ryzen 5 2600 for $20 less, or a 3600 for $195. If you for some reason don't want an AMD CPU, don't get a $185 overclocking motherboard for a $140 locked CPU. Get the cheapest Z370 or Z390 board you can find in that case. Also $80 is too much for 16GB of DDR4-2666, you can get 16GB of DDR4-3200 for $60 these days.

This would be significantly better performance (slightly better single thread, significantly better multi-threaded) for about the same money:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($81.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $390.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

Downgrade to a 2600 and DDR4-3200 if you want to save $100.

e: 4K is basically always GPU bottlenecked and I don't think you'll have a good time with dual Titan Z's in SLI at all. It basically doesn't work except in benchmarks these days. I would expect a single Titan Z to be underdimensioned for 1440p 120Hz and completely inadequate for 4K 60Hz.

Thanks for the feedback, I was hoping to stick with Intel in order to transfer my old SATA SSD before imaging across to an NVMe drive (and I realize that might not be at all necesary/logical). The RAM would be $52 for the 16GB kit at Microcenter but I am not going to argue with the rest, however...

Stickman posted:

Were you the one with the waterblock Zs? Even if they're waterblocked, if you're not using them for compute I suspect that whatever Turing/Navi card you could buy after reselling them would be an enormous gaming upgrade.

Yeah, that's me. I'm mostly determining whether they work or not, but the guy I got them from got them from work and they'd prefer I not sell them, seemingly sort of a sunk cost fallacy writ, um, ~ l o n g ~ as they've simply been sitting for I want to say 2.5 years? I honestly don't feel like trying to sell them together or individually, not my cup of tea, and the EK water cooling stuff is old enough that the manufacturer has only a couple of pieces that will interface with the water blocks.

This reminds me, my company got, for free, a whole rack with a clock signal synchronization engine, active 3D glasses and all the stuff to do dual-rear projector 4K in 3D (think geological visualization a la oil industry). The two Barco projectors from 2012 could do 4K and 3D but on the flip side they were rear projection only since they were too drat loud for anything else, needed 10,000 BTU/h of cooling, 17A of 230V power, and were the size of riding lawn mowers. The Titan Zs are my "Barco Projector Boondoggle™" only easier to use, test, and most importantly get rid of if not viable.

I did like the idea of itemizing and simply donating them to a non-profit computer education org, if that's acceptable. I can easily convince the previous owner's that these aren't too useful at present outside of a specialized workload.

Oddhair fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Nov 27, 2019

Spiritus Nox
Sep 2, 2011



Spiritus Nox posted:

Update to this conversation: I've got the new drive (A samsung 860 QVO fwiw) connected via a SATA to USB adapter, and windows makes the usual chime when I connect it, but I can't actually see it in explorer or disk manager, so I can't transfer any of my data over. Any ideas on what I might be missing? Can't be a power thing can it? I was under the impression that's not a concern for SSDs.

Edit: Nevermind, I was dumb and was looking at the list of volumes instead of the list of disks. Found the disk, initialized it, transferring my stuff now.

Update to this update: New drive's all secured in its bay with all my old data on it. No major issues other than having to go back inside to double check the data cable's connection after it wasn't secure enough the first time around. Thanks again for the tips.

Shaocaholica
Oct 29, 2002

Fig. 5E


Is a mint EVGA SuperNOVA 650G PSU worth $50 shipped? For a retro-ish build so I'm totally covered on the wattage.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Spiritus Nox posted:

Update to this update: New drive's all secured in its bay with all my old data on it. No major issues other than having to go back inside to double check the data cable's connection after it wasn't secure enough the first time around. Thanks again for the tips.

Good to hear! It was just a loose data cable that was causing the connection issue?

Shaocaholica posted:

Is a mint EVGA SuperNOVA 650G PSU worth $50 shipped? For a retro-ish build so I'm totally covered on the wattage.

It's not a bad price (assuming it's a G1+, G2, or G3), but you'll only get EVGA's 3-year transferable warranty (and only 3 years from the manufacturer's ship date, so possibly less). If you care about warranty component protection, you can get a 2017 update Corsair CX for $35 (5-year warranty), a 550W Corsair TXM for $60 after rebate (7-year warranty), or a Corsair Gold RMX for $80 (10-year warranty).

Killer_B
May 22, 2005


Stickman posted:

It's not exactly a NUC, but the ASRock Deskmini A300 is pretty darn tiny and comes with a motherboard and 300W brick psu for only $150. It uses 260-pin SODimm laptop DDR4, so make sure you get something compatible (if she wants to play 3d games, get a 2x8 3000 or 3200 kit since the APU is often bottlenecked by ram speed). Despite the listed cooler clearance, it will actually fit a 2400g's stock cooler if you remove the fan shroud!

With a 2200g, 2x8 3000 RAM, and a 500GB M.2 SSD it comes to ~$350. You could save a bit by dropping to 2x4 ram if she doesn't need 16GB or bump up the SSD to 1TB for an extra $45.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($77.98 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston A2000 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Case, Motherboard, PSU: ASRock Deskmini A300W ($149.99)
Total: $352.95

E: Is there a reason you want a NUC rather than a larger case?

She's very unlikely to require more than web based mail and browser oriented games, which doesn't typically require a lot of power...I think the 2200g would be more than enough for her needs.

Would the Intel-based options that are similar to your listed setup be priced about the same?

I'm thinking small, as she is looking to de-clutter more than a bit, and if she happens to need to use CD/DVD or the like, there's always external USB players/drives available.

Uhh Nope
May 20, 2016


Looking for some feedback on this upgrade I'm trying to buy over Black Friday: https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/c...tm_source=share

Looking mostly for feedback on the Motherboard and CPU.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Uhh Nope posted:

Looking for some feedback on this upgrade I'm trying to buy over Black Friday: https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/c...tm_source=share

Looking mostly for feedback on the Motherboard and CPU.

3600/Tomahawk/Corsair 3200 is a good combo, but spend the extra $5 to get the MAX version of the Tomahawk. That get's you guaranteed 3rd-gen Ryzen compatibility out of the box and the nice gui bios - increasing microcode sizes led to newer B450 bioses being keyboard-only until the MAX boards increased the size of the BIOS ROM chip.

At 1440p with a 1070 at high/ultra settings you probably won't see much (or even any) performance improvement over the 3570k, though, and you won't be getting 90+ fps in newer AAA games at high/ultra settings. Here's some benchmarks for the 5700 XT / 2070 Super at Ultra/Very high settings; the 1070 will mostly perform slightly under the 2060's numbers. They're not huge upgrades (~35% for the 5700 XT and 50% for the 2070 Super), but look at benchmarks for the games you'd like to play to see if it looks like the boost would be worth it to you.

If your psu was purchased more than 5 years ago (the length of it's warranty), I'd recommend buying a new one. Right now the Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 750W is $85 after rebate and the 650W Corsair RMx is $90.

Huge_Midget
Jun 6, 2002

I don't like the look of it...

So this may or may not be the place to ask, and this is probably a very unique use case scenario, but has anyone ever had any experience moving a set of drives that are setup as a Windows Storage Space from one machine to another one? I have my Plex library on a set of four, 5 terabyte WD drives and was hoping to migrate them to my new box. Windows Storage Spaces are considered a thin provisioned drive, and my cursory research leads me to believe that you can indeed move them to a new box and that Windows should recognize them as such, but I want to make sure before I try anything stupid.

Shaocaholica
Oct 29, 2002

Fig. 5E


Stickman posted:


It's not a bad price (assuming it's a G1+, G2, or G3), but you'll only get EVGA's 3-year transferable warranty (and only 3 years from the manufacturer's ship date, so possibly less). If you care about warranty component protection, you can get a 2017 update Corsair CX for $35 (5-year warranty), a 550W Corsair TXM for $60 after rebate (7-year warranty), or a Corsair Gold RMX for $80 (10-year warranty).

It's a first gen? I has the pull bar in the back. Was something wrong with the first gen?

Uhh Nope
May 20, 2016


Stickman posted:

3600/Tomahawk/Corsair 3200 is a good combo, but spend the extra $5 to get the MAX version of the Tomahawk. That get's you guaranteed 3rd-gen Ryzen compatibility out of the box and the nice gui bios - increasing microcode sizes led to newer B450 bioses being keyboard-only until the MAX boards increased the size of the BIOS ROM chip.

At 1440p with a 1070 at high/ultra settings you probably won't see much (or even any) performance improvement over the 3570k, though, and you won't be getting 90+ fps in newer AAA games at high/ultra settings. Here's some benchmarks for the 5700 XT / 2070 Super at Ultra/Very high settings; the 1070 will mostly perform slightly under the 2060's numbers. They're not huge upgrades (~35% for the 5700 XT and 50% for the 2070 Super), but look at benchmarks for the games you'd like to play to see if it looks like the boost would be worth it to you.

If your psu was purchased more than 5 years ago (the length of it's warranty), I'd recommend buying a new one. Right now the Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 750W is $85 after rebate and the 650W Corsair RMx is $90.

Thank you this is very helpful. I think I'll go for the MAX Tomahawk and replace my PSU with the Corsair you suggested because mine is way older than 5 years by now.

Scruff McGruff
Feb 13, 2007

Jesus, kid, you're almost a detective. All you need now is a gun, a gut, and three ex-wives.

Killer_B posted:

She's very unlikely to require more than web based mail and browser oriented games, which doesn't typically require a lot of power...I think the 2200g would be more than enough for her needs.

Would the Intel-based options that are similar to your listed setup be priced about the same?

I'm thinking small, as she is looking to de-clutter more than a bit, and if she happens to need to use CD/DVD or the like, there's always external USB players/drives available.

This might be a case where you might want to just get a used USFF Optiplex off ebay. You can grab one with an i5 for like $100 and I'm fairly sure many of them also have wifi available if needed, are tiny, and should have more than enough oomf for what she'll be using it for and you can always upgrade the storage and memory yourself if she needs more.

If you really want to build something new then I agree with Stickman, though I would say it might even be worth looking at the Athalon 3000g and save another $20 in addition to the 8gb RAM option he mentioned.

I guess it all just depends on if she'll need Vega 3 or 8 graphics or if the Intel iGPU would be fine.

Scruff McGruff fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Nov 27, 2019

PassiveSentence
Jun 1, 2013


GPU recently died, and I'm looking to buy a replacement, a better PSU, and also upgrade to a 1440p 144hz monitor for gaming.

Would an i5-4590 with 8GB DDR3 RAM bottleneck 1440p 144hz if paired with a 5700xt?

Am OK with dropping game settings from Ultra to medium/high, if that matters.

TheFluff
Dec 13, 2006

FRIENDS, LISTEN TO ME
I AM A SEAGULL
OF WEALTH AND TASTE


PassiveSentence posted:

GPU recently died, and I'm looking to buy a replacement, a better PSU, and also upgrade to a 1440p 144hz monitor for gaming.

Would an i5-4590 with 8GB DDR3 RAM bottleneck 1440p 144hz if paired with a 5700xt?

Am OK with dropping game settings from Ultra to medium/high, if that matters.

The higher the framerate the more likely you are to become CPU bottlenecked. At 60fps you'll be fine, but a 4590 will probably not be able to keep up above 100fps in new games. In some games that like lots of threads (like Asscreed or RDR2) you might barely get to 70, even. In older games you'll be fine. Game settings generally don't affect the CPU either.

KinkyJohn
Sep 18, 2002



Is it better to wait for Monday for cyber monday deals on parts or do you buy on Friday?

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Shaocaholica posted:

It's a first gen? I has the pull bar in the back. Was something wrong with the first gen?

They're not bad per se, but they were mediocre compared to the newer models. They also haven't been sold in a while, so it's unlikely that you'd have much (or any) of the transferable warranty remaining. Sitting unused for years is also not very good for a psu's capacitors.

Shaocaholica
Oct 29, 2002

Fig. 5E


Stickman posted:

They're not bad per se, but they were mediocre compared to the newer models. They also haven't been sold in a while, so it's unlikely that you'd have much (or any) of the transferable warranty remaining. Sitting unused for years is also not very good for a psu's capacitors.

Oh neat thanks. It's not a G1 then because the G1 doesnt have the pull bar. Well whatever I'll see if it blows up.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









What's the price/performance sweet spot for a low power tiny pc with integrated graphics only?

Is this buy an OEM all in one territory?

I'm going to make a custom enclosure so I don't care if it comes with one

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.



taqueso posted:

What's the price/performance sweet spot for a low power tiny pc with integrated graphics only?

Is this buy an OEM all in one territory?

I'm going to make a custom enclosure so I don't care if it comes with one

How low power / what are you doing with the graphics? Like, SBC territory?

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taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Speed of a quad core i7 from 5 years ago. Integrated graphics from Intel in the last 5 years is fine. A modern DX level is good but it doesn't need much actual muscle. It is for a car pc, so it doesn't need to be ultra low power. I'd like it to be more business laptop level but without a display or keyboard.

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