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Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker

Rolo posted:

-I used to build PC’s but it’s been almost 20 years. For reference, my last one was a bleeding edge Athlon XP with a Radeon 9800. Has much changed with respect to assembly?

PC assembly has changed very little in the last 20 years, mainly fewer sharp edges and modular PSU cables. The mechanics of doing it haven't changed, but the products are more polished and the quality of life is higher.

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FilthyImp
Sep 30, 2002

Nope



taqueso posted:

Really almost nothing. The low end cases don't have razor blade edges anymore. There are basically no parts you can hook up backwards, everything is keyed, though 1999 might have been to that point too.
Yeah, probably the four biggest developments have been:

* modular power supplies
* cable management integration with cases
* simplified setups for water-cooling
* M.2 form factors for storage

You can maybe add SLI/dual GPU setups in that as well, I guess. And RGB LED lightshow stuff.

Aside from the connectors changing, it's all the same hoopla of Mobo, CPU, cooler, GPU, drives, Wifi. Sound cards are mostly not needed anymore.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Rashaverak posted:

I definitely plan on purchasing one in the next few days as I hadn't been extremely impressed with anything yet this year - I favor larger monitors, and a 27 inch would likely be too small for me. I'll head over to the appropriate thread and read up on the new offerings to see if there's something nice in the 34-38" range.


I read about the VRM problems on the motherboard, with the design I chose using the "4x2" layout for the VRM as opposed to a true 8 or 12 phase VRM. Howevber, I simply haven't read anything convincing that this will make a significant difference in my overclocking experience - it just mostly seems like people on either side entrenched in their viewpoints yelling at each other and presenting anecdotal evidence as if it were published in a peer reviewed journal. The primary reason I chose Asus was their consistently good ratings for overclocking software/support. If this is truly a much bigger problem than I've anticipated, I'd appreciate any reading on the subject you might have that's more than just people arguing on the internet.

Overclocking potential is going to be more or less the same and the 9900k doesn't have a ton of headroom anyway, but better VRM means more peace of mind for running an overclock over several years. Gigabyte's boards are great and Asus' are just marginal. You won't really be going wrong, per se, but you'll run a higher risk of reducing the board's lifespan.

Rashaverak posted:

Very good point about the storage - if the performance, reliability, and lifespan are the same between two equivalent devices I see no reason not to drop the Samsungs in favor of an equivalent. I simply chose them as I remember Samsung as having made rather decent quality SSDs at slightly higher than normal prices.

Also a very useful point about the Kraken G12 - I've seen so much contradicting information on the internet about what is and isn't compatible (especially with a little use of a dremel) that I've been obviously confused. If I want a good 280mm RGB AIO that will work with the Kraken G12 (and preferably with Corsair's iCUE system which is why I got the commander pro), do you have any suggestions? I like the aesthetics of the H115i Platinum's lights, and the LL120s, so I'd like to stick to something close to that look and preferably all controllable under one system, and I haven't seen any convincing evidence to move to a 360mm AIO when a 280mm seems nearly as good, but I'm willing and interested to be proven wrong. My main goal for watercooling the GPU would be to reduce temps to improve lifetime, get a little extra clock speed out of the lowered temps, and maybe overclock it more than I could with just air cooling. However, if the air cooling on the XC ULTRA is such that I won't really notice any performance gain, I'm not going to worry about it too much.

There's always the option of going full open-loop watercooling, but I've never so much as used an AIO before and don't know the first thing about bending PETG tubes or building my own custom cooling loop, and I'm not sure that I would see too many more gains in performance/stability when overclocked as compared to a decent AIO in real-world (non-benchmark) situations, would I? More importantly, would it make my high refresh rate VR experience any better with the Index? I'm doubting so, but I'm clearly not the expert here.

Thanks for the advice!

Edit: If I get a Kraken X72 (the 360mm one) for the Kraken G12, is there any way I can replace the fans with Corsair LL-120s so I can use the commander pro to control them? At this point I would need to control 8 RGB fans and the Commander Pro can only handle 6, so I'm not sure how or if it's possible to use 2 commander pros.


I was thinking that the H115i was 360mm when I mentioned it, so it was more for equivalent aesthetics than cooling. For a gpu there's not going to be a significant difference in cooling and noise between a 360 aio or a 280/240 (and even a 120 is sufficient for a 2080 ti!)

If your just looking for a performance gain, though, I wouldn't bother with the aio at all - it's not going to be significant. Same goes for cpu, honestly - a D15s or Scythe Mugen 5 is extremely close to the a good 240/280 aio in cooling and noise.

If you decide to go with a compatible cooler, you should be able to swap out the fans for Corsairs, just make sure you get the right size (120 or 140).

Rashaverak posted:

Also, I'm looking to be able to run virtually anything I want in VR on maximum settings and highest refresh rate on the Index. I know my previous GTX 1080 wasn't cutting it for me, so I want to make sure my VR experience is flawless from now on and that's a large reason why I went all out on this rig (within limits, no $5k GPUs etc)

This should be about as good as it can get right now! We don't know what gaming requirements will look like after the next console launch, but top-end Intel cpus and motherboards tend to retain a good portion of their value in resale so if you need to swap out for new processor at some point the marginal cost should be relatively low.

Beach Party
May 2, 2012

"I took the most excellent hit of my life. Next thing I knew, I was on the beach taking in some cosmic rays gettin healed by mother nature. Takin in a little brewski, holdin on to a beautiful babe. And I'm fine today!"


tehinternet posted:

I have literally this build. Upgrade your video card and youíll crush anything at 1080p. Iím using the 4670k now with a 1080 Ti (I know, bottleneck) at 1440 Ultrawide and usually getting 60+ frames.

The games you listed are all a few years old, so yeah. At 1080p if you went to a 1660 or found a used 1060 (probably even lower) or something as youíd be golden. 1080p @60hz isnít a high bar to meet anymore.

E: just saw that youíre building for your kid ó thatís the whole reason Iím upgrading myself. ĎSup building computer for kids buddy? Iím stoked for them to see the difference from the Xbox to what theyíll have now. With the sales and the hardware I had laying around, got to build them two 1440p 156hz AMD 3600x /1080 Ti boxes for like ~$1k altogether. There are some decent case/RAM sales happening right now too.

Double e: though I did pull the trigger on an upgrade and had a question ó whatís the recommended cooler for an I-75-9700k in a mid-tower?

I remember how excited I got as a kid upgrading PC parts so hopefully he does too. This was exactly the advice I was hoping for. Going to go with a higher end card which I can then move to a new build 1 or 2 years down the road when I get a new cpu/board.

Thanks for the help!

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Rolo posted:

I really like my PSVR but the limitations are noticeable and Iím thinking about building a box for an Oculus S. Hereís some idiot questions because man am I out of the loop:

-I used to build PCís but itís been almost 20 years. For reference, my last one was a bleeding edge Athlon XP with a Radeon 9800. Has much changed with respect to assembly?

Honestly, the biggest change in PC gaming over the past 10 years is the availability of quality high-refresh and higher-resolution monitors in the <$400 price range, along with adaptive sync technologies. Along with that, most components have gotten cheaper (and you can now swap out hdds for ssds entirely), but if you're targeting 1440p/144+ or higher your gpu will be 40-60% of the total build budget.

Picking a monitor resolution/refresh rate is where you want to start a build these days, and if you've never experienced good high-refresh monitors you should check some out at your local Best Buy. Even if you end up sticking with your TV, it's worth a look.

E: Although, if we're talking 20 years ago, you missed most of the rough early "gaming on lcd" years.

Rolo posted:

-I donít want to find room for a desk and monitor. Iíd be using this 90% for VR and like 10% traditional gaming with a controller so Iíd like to just use my TV as a monitor. What are the considerations with doing this? Can I just run an HDMI and call it good? Will I need a separate cable for sound or can I run both through one HDMI like with a game console? My last PC had a dedicated sound card so it was a simpler question then.

What's the resolution of your TV? If it's 4k you might want a more power gpu, though you'll still probably want to upscale from 1440p or 1800p to keep frame rates stable. HDMi carries digital audio, so no need for a separate cable. In fact, a sound card wouldn't add anything to this setup because it would still be the gpu that sends digital audio to the TV!

Stickman fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Dec 1, 2019

MaxxBot
Oct 6, 2003

you could have clapped

you should have clapped!!


Hace posted:

I genuinely can't think of a good reason to get the 2700X over the 3600, unless there's something extremly specific you need those extra threads for. And even then i dunno what you really get.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($185.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450M GAMING PLUS Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($52.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $378.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-01 11:22 EST-0500

Cyrano4747 posted:

Mostly because there's a sale on them at the Microcenter near me and I can get one for $160. - https://www.newegg.com/amd-ryzen-7-...N82E16819113498

Plus whatever I can sell the free game for over on awful mart

Any reason to go 3600 over 2700X if they cost basically the same?

Microcenter actually has the 2700X for $130 right now, that's cheap enough to where I can see getting it over the 3600. At that price ($100 with combo deal) I would say go for it.

https://www.microcenter.com/product...th-prism-cooler

Rolo
Nov 16, 2005

Hmm, what have we here?

Stickman posted:

In fact, a sound card wouldn't add anything to this setup because it would still be the gpu that sends digital audio to the TV!

Thatís neat and exactly what I was hoping to hear.

Lots of good stuff so far, thank you for the info, everyone.

If Iím going for decent VR would I be fine sticking with a micro ATX setup or would it melt through my floor? I ask because I crammed my 9800 in a smaller case back in the day and it was basically a glowing radioactive mess once I loaded Half Life 2

TenaciousTomato
Jul 17, 2007

Until I went to the temple, where the High Priest asked me what my name was, and I said, 'Snoop Dogg.' And he looked me in my eyes and said, 'No more. You are the light; you are the lion.'


Torn between these 2 boards for overclocking my new i7-8700k:

GIGABYTE Z390 AORUS ULTRA
ASUS Prime Z390-A

I like the WiFi and VRM dependability of the Gigabyte, but the audio codec and BIOS UI seem to be better on the ASUS.

Any idea which I should choose, or a different one to throw in the ring?

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



MaxxBot posted:

Microcenter actually has the 2700X for $130 right now, that's cheap enough to where I can see getting it over the 3600. At that price ($100 with combo deal) I would say go for it.

https://www.microcenter.com/product...th-prism-cooler

Doh. Yeah thatís the deal I meant to link.

PirateBob
Jun 14, 2003


1. What's a good reliable 4tb+ HDD? Doesn't have to be super quick, won't be running games or apps from it, just for storage.

And if I can sneak in a related question: How do you check a HDD's health/remaining lifetime?

And what the heck is SAS? Last time I bought a HDD it was all SATA.

PirateBob fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Dec 1, 2019

LODGE NORTH
Jul 30, 2007



If any of you guys build a PC and need to activate Windows, could you PM me? I'm not gonna sell you a single drat thing, nor will I mention selling any drat thing, but I need to test something and I don't necessarily wanna install Windows just to check it out.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Ok, is there anything horribly wrong with this motherboard - https://www.microcenter.com/product...amd-motherboard - and a 2700x?

edit: or a 3600 for that matter, I'm still debating that but I'm diving down the mobo rabbit hole and frankly I don't know enough to tell the different similar boards apart. Only restriction is that I'd prefer a mATX for space reasons.

Cyrano4747 fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Dec 1, 2019

Bryter
Nov 6, 2011

but since we are small we may-
uh, we may be the losers


PirateBob posted:

1. What's a good reliable 4tb+ HDD? Doesn't have to be super quick, won't be running games or apps from it, just for storage.

And if I can sneak in a related question: How do you check a HDD's health/remaining lifetime?

And what the heck is SAS? Last time I bought a HDD it was all SATA.

NAS drives like WD Red and Seagate Ironwolf are what you want. You can use a program like crystal disk info to check a drive's SMART info. Don't worry about SAS, it's mostly used by enterprise servers, consumer motherboards don't even have SAS controllers.

PirateBob
Jun 14, 2003


Bryter posted:

NAS drives like WD Red and Seagate Ironwolf are what you want. You can use a program like crystal disk info to check a drive's SMART info. Don't worry about SAS, it's mostly used by enterprise servers, consumer motherboards don't even have SAS controllers.

Thanks. I might go for an IronWolf.

How do you interpret the info from CrystalDiskInfo?

It says "reallocated sector count: Current 100, Worst 100, Raw data 0000000000"

dads friend steve
Dec 24, 2004





MaxxBot posted:

Microcenter actually has the 2700X for $130 right now, that's cheap enough to where I can see getting it over the 3600. At that price ($100 with combo deal) I would say go for it.

https://www.microcenter.com/product...th-prism-cooler

That seems like a good deal.

For the thread: Can I get some opinions on the 2700 vs the 3600?

Iíd like a computer thatís good for development type work and is somewhere around $6-800 (minus monitor). I do occasionally play games but I donít mind playing at lower resolutions or limiting myself to older stuff anyway. Iím not planning on spending more than $200 each for a monitor or gpu if I can help it. Iím tempted to go for the 2700 because the extra threads would be great when Iím running Docker containers and whatnot

is there anything I would be missing out on by opting for the 2700 instead of the newer 3600?

Rolo
Nov 16, 2005

Hmm, what have we here?

Will my Ryzen come with thermal paste or should I just throw a tube of the stuff on top of the pile? Itís like 5 bucks.

And what Windows do I buy? What the heck does OEM mean in regards to an OS? Can I boot install from a usb?

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Cyrano4747 posted:

Ok, is there anything horribly wrong with this motherboard - https://www.microcenter.com/product...amd-motherboard - and a 2700x?

edit: or a 3600 for that matter, I'm still debating that but I'm diving down the mobo rabbit hole and frankly I don't know enough to tell the different similar boards apart. Only restriction is that I'd prefer a mATX for space reasons.

I think you need a lot more RGBs

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006



Cyrano4747 posted:

Ok, is there anything horribly wrong with this motherboard - https://www.microcenter.com/product...amd-motherboard - and a 2700x?

edit: or a 3600 for that matter, I'm still debating that but I'm diving down the mobo rabbit hole and frankly I don't know enough to tell the different similar boards apart. Only restriction is that I'd prefer a mATX for space reasons.

aaaand this ram: https://www.microcenter.com/product...-16gvkb---black

Not seeing any problems via PC parts picker etc but I'm an idiot.

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker

PirateBob posted:

Thanks. I might go for an IronWolf.

How do you interpret the info from CrystalDiskInfo?

It says "reallocated sector count: Current 100, Worst 100, Raw data 0000000000"
That basically means 100% for that parameter (others can work in different ways). If your drive did have reallocated sectors, I would think about replacing it, but perhaps more important than the number itself is if they increase. If a drive keeps reallocating sectors over time it is a clear symptom of impending failure. But if a drive has some reallocated sectors and that number never changes over weeks and months of use, it is possible some part of the media went bad for whatever reason and it isn't going to spread anywhere else. But a healthy drive should always have zero.

If it shows "Good" then the drive's built in SMART monitor has not detected any anomalies, but if it says caution or warning you should immediately back up your data and replace the disk. If you mouse hover over a caution or warning indicator it will tell you what parameters are out of the threshold and show their values. To really get full usefulness out of it though, make it auto start with windows, set it to auto-refresh all drives every 1440 minutes (once a day) and leave it running in the background permanently. It will provide early warning via a sound and notification on most impending mechanical drive failures and 90% of the time will allow you to back up all the data then replace the drive yourself if you act quickly. It also tracks all the drive parameters over time and can graph changes, although there will always be cases where a drive just fails abruptly without warning and crystal disk info can't help there.

SAS is for Serial Attached SCSI, this is exclusively an enterprise class feature and does not work on consumer motherboards/controllers.

Bryter
Nov 6, 2011

but since we are small we may-
uh, we may be the losers


PirateBob posted:

Thanks. I might go for an IronWolf.

How do you interpret the info from CrystalDiskInfo?

It says "reallocated sector count: Current 100, Worst 100, Raw data 0000000000"

Means you have no reallocated sectors, which is good. If you have anything to worry about there will be a warning.

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust


Grimey Drawer

dads friend steve posted:

That seems like a good deal.

For the thread: Can I get some opinions on the 2700 vs the 3600?

Iíd like a computer thatís good for development type work and is somewhere around $6-800 (minus monitor). I do occasionally play games but I donít mind playing at lower resolutions or limiting myself to older stuff anyway. Iím not planning on spending more than $200 each for a monitor or gpu if I can help it. Iím tempted to go for the 2700 because the extra threads would be great when Iím running Docker containers and whatnot

is there anything I would be missing out on by opting for the 2700 instead of the newer 3600?

You'll be fine with the 2700x. While the 3000 series are faster it's not like you'll be able to tell in FPS difference with your eyes. For $130 it's an amazing deal. I'd pick it over the 3600 any day for that price. The main bottleneck in gaming is the video card anyway. When the 2700x was launched a year ago it was selling for $330. It's still a premium processor today.

Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Dec 1, 2019

Rashaverak
May 13, 2001

"Cock'n'Balls" is a pinnacle of modern medicine.

Stickman posted:

I was thinking that the H115i was 360mm when I mentioned it, so it was more for equivalent aesthetics than cooling. For a gpu there's not going to be a significant difference in cooling and noise between a 360 aio or a 280/240 (and even a 120 is sufficient for a 2080 ti!)

If your just looking for a performance gain, though, I wouldn't bother with the aio at all - it's not going to be significant. Same goes for cpu, honestly - a D15s or Scythe Mugen 5 is extremely close to the a good 240/280 aio in cooling and noise.

If you decide to go with a compatible cooler, you should be able to swap out the fans for Corsairs, just make sure you get the right size (120 or 140).

My primary reasons for going with the AIO for the GPU are lower temperatures ~ longer lifespan, less noise, improved ability to overclock, and I simply like the look (in all Corsair RGB) and idea of having dual 280mm AIOs, one on top for the CPU and one on bottom for the GPU, with three LL120's on intake in the front with a LL140 in the rear. I decided to stick with the Corsair Crystal 680x as I simply enjoy the aesthetics of that case kitted out in synchronized RGB, and I'd accept the weaknesses this case has over the Lian Li since I have to stare at it for the next 5 years. I did however change my storage and power supply to your recommendations as I saw no reason to go to 850W, and the storage changes made good sense. I kept my processor with the 9900KF, primarily because I've always wanted a super nice Intel processor without going to the $1k+ level, and there's multiple reports of these chips being more stable at 5.0GHz on all 8 cores due to whatever Intel is doing in its binning process to eliminate the supply problem for these chips by using chips with bad integrated graphics or whatever the real situation is.

I've seen some different takes on using the Kraken G12 to watercool the GPUs - some people say they need heatsinks on VRAM and VRMs in the 2080 TI, others say they're working just fine albeit at slightly higher than normal temps but well within tolerances. I don't know if adding heatsinks with thermal double sided tape would still fit within the G12 bracket, or how the VRMs on the opposite side of the die would get cooled (so I would definitely put a heatsink on those if it fits, but it would be 6 VRMs with heatsinks without a fan). I'm guessing I'm also going to have no choice but to go with the NZXT X62 AIO, as I can't find a compatible Corsair 280mm AIO that isn't $750 as I'm guessing they're older and mostly out of stock, and a 240mm AIO just has the wrong aesthetics when the slot fits a 280mm and the other AIO is a 280mm. If anyone knows of a compatible 280mm Corsair, please do let me know, or if there's another 280mm solution besides the X62 I should consider.

Stickman posted:

This should be about as good as it can get right now! We don't know what gaming requirements will look like after the next console launch, but top-end Intel cpus and motherboards tend to retain a good portion of their value in resale so if you need to swap out for new processor at some point the marginal cost should be relatively low.

Thanks for the advice, again! I haven't totally followed all of the recommendations I've received from this thread, mainly for "I've always wanted one" reasons on the CPU, but this thread has helped me make less bad choices. I still need to find a monitor, but I'm torn between a 4k 120Hz or a 1440p 120hz. I know most games won't be able to run 4k at 120 FPS even with this setup, so I'm hesitant to pull the trigger on some of the $699 27 inch 4K 120Hz monitors I've seen so far. Any recommendations (let's say $800ish budget but by no means do I feel I need to use that all, and could be convinced to go $1k if it was worth it).

dads friend steve
Dec 24, 2004





Mu Zeta posted:

You'll be fine with the 2700x. While the 3000 series are faster it's not like you'll be able to tell in FPS difference with your eyes. For $130 it's an amazing deal. I'd pick it over the 3600 any day for that price. The main bottleneck in gaming is the video card anyway. When the 2700x was launched a year ago it was selling for $330. It's still a premium processor today.

Thank you! Iíve never built a pc before so itís all a bit overwhelming.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Cyrano4747 posted:

aaaand this ram: https://www.microcenter.com/product...-16gvkb---black

Not seeing any problems via PC parts picker etc but I'm an idiot.

It seems ok to me, but I'm not quite as informed as some people in here.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Cyrano4747 posted:

Ok, is there anything horribly wrong with this motherboard - https://www.microcenter.com/product...amd-motherboard - and a 2700x?

edit: or a 3600 for that matter, I'm still debating that but I'm diving down the mobo rabbit hole and frankly I don't know enough to tell the different similar boards apart. Only restriction is that I'd prefer a mATX for space reasons.

That board is one of the better mATX choices and would be totally fine for a stock 2700x or 3600, but it's pretty marginal for overclocking a 2700x. Unfortunately there really isn't much better in mATX until except for the $185 X570 (except for Europe, which has the MSi Mortar). It should be fine, but if you're playing on a high refresh monitor I'd consider spending a bit extra for the 3600.

Overclocked power consumption is the one big disadvantage of the 2700x over the 3600. Overclocking will close some of the single-core performance, but you'd really want at least a B450 Tomahawk or X470 do get a decent boost. Targeting 60fps it doesn't really matter, though, a stock 2600/2700 will be just fine for everything currently released!

The B450m Pro4 is on the compatibility list for ram you selected, so it should be fine!

Stickman fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Dec 1, 2019

Ak Gara
Jul 29, 2005

That's just the way he rolls.

TenaciousTomato posted:

Torn between these 2 boards for overclocking my new i7-8700k:

GIGABYTE Z390 AORUS ULTRA
ASUS Prime Z390-A

I like the WiFi and VRM dependability of the Gigabyte, but the audio codec and BIOS UI seem to be better on the ASUS.

Any idea which I should choose, or a different one to throw in the ring?

I've no idea where the Asus stands (probably high) but I have heard that the Aorus Master has better VRM's than the Ultra.

[edit] no idea if it's true

Ak Gara fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Dec 1, 2019

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
I paid five bucks and all I got was this custom title.

Ugh are there any alternatives to the Tomahawk max right now? I don't mind spending 50-100 more. It's for a 3600X..

I ask because the Tomahawk seems to be sold out at the usual spots.

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust


Grimey Drawer

Are you ok with spending $200 on an X570 board?

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
I paid five bucks and all I got was this custom title.

I see an X570 Aorus board for 150ish which doesn't seem too crazy?

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust


Grimey Drawer

Yeah looks like either of these are solid and can handle the 3950x if you're inclined

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Prime-X...ttpwwwtechsp-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SXF8GY...ttpwwwtechsp-20

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


The TUF is the better choice if you want a usb-c port.

E: The Aorus Elite is fine, too, and that's a good price. It doesn't have any external USB-c ports, but you can use a bracket to access the internal type-c port if you don't have type-c port on your case's front panel.

Stickman fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Dec 1, 2019

Nessman
Nov 23, 2009


Last built a PC in 2010, looking to get something newer in a smaller box. (Ideally under 12"x10"x10" WxDxH but I have a few inches to spare if that's unreasonable).

Black Friday deals are prompting me get on this.

I'm in Canada
I'd like to do some modern-ish gaming, a couple of friends are inviting me to play divinity original sin 2 and borderlands 2 and I can't run them yet.
Aside from gaming I'd like to make some games in unity.

I'm running a 1080p, 60fps monitor and I doubt I'll go fancier. I don't need max settings, if I can get games looking as good as Deus Ex: Human Revolution then I'll be happy. (I don't know what minimum graphics looks like these days but I'm not looking for a high bar)
Friend is offering to give me a GTX 1060 to get my system started. Don't know if that's good or bad.

I'll take any advice I can get.

MaxxBot
Oct 6, 2003

you could have clapped

you should have clapped!!


The 1060 can handle Divinity Original Sin 2 and Borderlands 2 at 1080p so that's a nice offer from your friend. This ITX case is basically the exact dimensions you're looking for and it's pretty cheap.

https://www.thermaltakeusa.com/core-v1.html

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Nessman posted:

Last built a PC in 2010, looking to get something newer in a smaller box. (Ideally under 12"x10"x10" WxDxH but I have a few inches to spare if that's unreasonable).

Black Friday deals are prompting me get on this.

I'm in Canada
I'd like to do some modern-ish gaming, a couple of friends are inviting me to play divinity original sin 2 and borderlands 2 and I can't run them yet.
Aside from gaming I'd like to make some games in unity.

I'm running a 1080p, 60fps monitor and I doubt I'll go fancier. I don't need max settings, if I can get games looking as good as Deus Ex: Human Revolution then I'll be happy. (I don't know what minimum graphics looks like these days but I'm not looking for a high bar)
Friend is offering to give me a GTX 1060 to get my system started. Don't know if that's good or bad.

I'll take any advice I can get.

What sort of budget are you looking at? And do you mean Borderlands 2 or Borderlands 3?

The Thermaltake Core V1 is a nice budget ITX case that's just a bit over your dimensions: 10.2"x12.4"x10.9" (WDH). This should be a good budget base without cutting corners:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($159.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($137.48 @ Vuugo)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($78.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Canada Computers)
Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($79.98 @ Amazon Canada)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($102.50 @ Vuugo)
Total: $668.93

There's room to drop that down little bit, but mostly with a smaller ssd or cheaper power supply, which I wouldn't recommend.

A 1060 (especially the 6GB version) is a good 1080p/60Hz card, especially if you're playing games like OS2 and Borderlands 2. A 1660 Super would be a ~25% performance boost, but they start at $320 for good models.

E: You'd need to double-check that the 1060 will fit in the Core V1, though. Length is usually fine, but it won't fit cards that are much wider than two slots or much taller than the bracket. Most 1060s will fit, but MSI's "Gaming X" cards are too tall and Gigabyte's "Aorus Extreme" cards are too tall and too fat.

Stickman fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Dec 1, 2019

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
I paid five bucks and all I got was this custom title.

Stickman posted:

The TUF is the better choice if you want a usb-c port.

E: The Aorus Elite is fine, too, and that's a good price. It doesn't have any external USB-c ports, but you can use a bracket to access the internal type-c port if you don't have type-c port on your case's front panel.

Thanks! My case has an external C port so I think I'm good there. I'm still confused why these cases put C ports instead of A (granted I have a bunch of C to C cables but suspect most people aren't like me and have A to C instead..).

counterfeitsaint
Feb 26, 2010

I'm a girl, and you're
gnomes, and it's like
what? Yikes.

I have a little media player PC with a Pentium G4400 in it, using onboard video. I've found that it struggles with 1080p HEVC files, particularly there is anything else running on it at all, with the processor maxing out. My question is what would give me a greater bang for my buck, putting a fanless/very quiet video card in it, or replacing the processor with an i5/i7. It'd have to be an older 6th or 7th generation processor because of Intel's chipset nonsense. It's running Linux Mint if that matters.

MagusDraco
Nov 11, 2011

even speedwagon was trolled


All my stuff arrived and my new computer is working. Word of warning for anyone else. Sometimes the Tomahawk Max B450 won't see your GPU. It happened to me after trying to update the bios via MSI's Live Update 6. Not gonna try that again. Gonna be a pain if doing the bios update from the bios (M-Flash forces you to restart the computer) makes the motherboard unable to see my GPU again.

Slightly wishing I spent the extra $30-$40 on a X570 board but oh well. GPU is an EVGA GTX 1080ti SC Black Edition. Bios was giving the Post and VGA error lights while the problem was happening. I eventually got things working again by resetting the CMOS but god that was not fun to run into after spending like 5 hours building the thing, 10 minutes installing windows...and then 30-45 minutes going "oh nooo I bricked the motherboard" while trying to troubleshoot it.

Edit: also the Meshify C expects you to route cables in this one spot with velcro spots already there but then the velcro they already have their is a pain to loosen to fit anything into. I also am probably not great at routing cables and had problems getting the PSU to stay in it's slot. Due to the HDD brackets I had to let the PSU hang out the back some to hook all the modular cables up.

MagusDraco fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Dec 2, 2019

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.



You shouldn't really need to update the bioses on Max boards.

MagusDraco
Nov 11, 2011

even speedwagon was trolled


ItBreathes posted:

You shouldn't really need to update the bioses on Max boards.

It's a couple versions behind and doesn't have agesa 1.0.0.4 patch B.

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poverty goat
Feb 15, 2004




Does Antec still make pretty good cases? I'm looking for an inexpensive ATX ~midtower case with good airflow, at least one unobstructed 5.25" bay and no plugs, fan holes or mesh on the top, and all I can find that fits the bill this Antec P7 Silent. Antec used to be highly regarded 10+ years ago but this is priced pretty low and only for sale from third party sellers on Newegg or Amazon which is usually a red flag. What's the deal? Any suggestions?

poverty goat fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Dec 2, 2019

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