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vanilla slimfast
Dec 6, 2006

If anyone needs me, I'll be in the Angry Dome




OpenlyEvilJello posted:

I put together a new PC last night but I'm having trouble getting it to POST.

It's a 5600X in an MSI PRO-VDH WIFI and I'm using my (elderly) R7 265 graphics card until I can get my hands on something fun. When I start it, the EZ Debug LEDs flash (typically CPU, RAM, CPU again, VGA, then Boot) and then it settles to having just the Boot LED lit. My monitor does not detect any input. Both monitor and graphics card were connected to my previous PC, so they were working a day ago.

I've tried it with a fresh M.2 drive, a 2.5" with Windows already installed, and a flash drive with Windows PE on it to the same result. I've also reseated everything I can think of except the CPU itself. I've also tried clearing the CMOS.

When I flashed the BIOS (prior to putting anything together), the associated LED flashed several times (I think 10) before turning off. In total it lasted a few seconds, not a few minutes, though I did leave it for a while (tens of minutes) before continuing.

Have I hosed up? Help I am not good with computer.

It honestly sounds like the BIOS flash did not take and as a result it canít handle the Zen3 CPU.

I canít speak for the MSI boardís flashback behavior from personal experience, but you might want to double-check in the manual as to what the light sequence should be during the process. On my Asus, the LED was on solidly for 5 mins while it flashed, and then turned off when it was done. Also double-check the format of the flash drive (FAT32), the correct naming of the BIOS file, and that you put the flash drive in the correct USB port.

If you still canít get the flashback BIOS update working, you might want to consider tracking down/borrowing a Zen2 CPU long enough to confirm the mobo itself isnít bad and to maybe try a non-flashback BIOS update instead.

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bus hustler
Mar 14, 2019



MSI flashback for me did a long RGB light sequence and went for about 3 minutes. It's possible it was already at the right bios? I have seen people have issues with flash drives, try reformatting it, make sure its FAT32, make sure its named MSI.ROM (all caps) etc. Try a few drives if you have them.

Does it POST? Can you get into any menus at all?

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011





KinkyJohn posted:

So what are the chances of ever buying a 3070 or 3080 at msrp prices?

I guess the best move if you want to build a new system right now is to not build a system right now, amd 5000 cpus and nvidia 3000 cards are out of stock and being scalped like crazy

months

My wife and I got the diablo 3 expansions lol

OpenlyEvilJello
Dec 28, 2009


bus hustler posted:

MSI flashback for me did a long RGB light sequence and went for about 3 minutes. It's possible it was already at the right bios? I have seen people have issues with flash drives, try reformatting it, make sure its FAT32, make sure its named MSI.ROM (all caps) etc. Try a few drives if you have them.

Does it POST? Can you get into any menus at all?

The thought had occurred to me that it might already have the right BIOS, but I can't figure out how to tell. I tried the two flash drives I could find, both newly formatted, both FAT32, file renamed to MSI.ROM exactly. I just had a new one arrive in the mail minutes ago and I'm about to try it (my others are like 10 and 15 years old now). [e: More promising so farówent through 10 slow flashes like before, off for a second or two, and now it's flashing rapidly, which did not happen before.] [e2: Success!]

No POST. No menus. No signal to the display at all.

vanilla slimfast posted:

It honestly sounds like the BIOS flash did not take and as a result it canít handle the Zen3 CPU.

I canít speak for the MSI boardís flashback behavior from personal experience, but you might want to double-check in the manual as to what the light sequence should be during the process. On my Asus, the LED was on solidly for 5 mins while it flashed, and then turned off when it was done. Also double-check the format of the flash drive (FAT32), the correct naming of the BIOS file, and that you put the flash drive in the correct USB port.

If you still canít get the flashback BIOS update working, you might want to consider tracking down/borrowing a Zen2 CPU long enough to confirm the mobo itself isnít bad and to maybe try a non-flashback BIOS update instead.

I'm finding MSI's documentation a little scanty. Here's their entire flashback section from the motherboard manual:

quote:

Updating BIOS with Flash BIOS Button
1. Please download the latest BIOS file that matches your motherboard model from the MSIģ website.
2. Rename the BIOS file to MSI.ROM, and save it to the root of your USB flash drive.
3. Connect the power supply to CPU_PWR1 and ATX_PWR1. (No need to install CPU and memory.)
4. Plug the USB flash drive that contains the MSI.ROM file into the Flash BIOS Port on the rear I/O panel.
5. Press the Flash BIOS Button to flash BIOS, and the LED starts flashing.
6. The LED will be turned off when the process is completed.
If this round doesn't work I may end up having to take it in somewhere with a Zen 2, yeah.

OpenlyEvilJello fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Nov 28, 2020

Boxman
Sep 27, 2004

Big fan of




KinkyJohn posted:

So what are the chances of ever buying a 3070 or 3080 at msrp prices?

I guess the best move if you want to build a new system right now is to not build a system right now, amd 5000 cpus and nvidia 3000 cards are out of stock and being scalped like crazy

It's possible, but you have to be willing to spend an extra bit of money on whatever partner card pops up at that moment and flexible enough to drop whatever you're doing when you notice an alert to go spend a lot of cash.

I'm lucky enough to be in that demographic, since I work from home. On a random weekday mid-afternoon, I noticed a Best Buy restock on the ASUS TUF 3070 and picked one up 10-15 minutes after the alert popped. That's obviously anecdotal, and there's a lot of people logging on 60 seconds later only to find zero stock, but it is possible to luck into a big supply drop.

OpenlyEvilJello
Dec 28, 2009


Flashback through the new flash drive worked, so I think the lesson here is "don't use prehistoric flash drives to flash your BIOS." Thanks all!

abraham linksys
Sep 6, 2010



hey y'all, will take this to Haus of Tech Support if there's no quick answer, but I've been having a bad time with Bluetooth and Wifi since I got my new computer built.

I did an ITX build using an MSI MPG B550I GAMING EDGE WIFI B550 board. Like a lot of ITX boards, this has an onboard Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200 chip. I've got the most recent drivers for that chipset, using Intel's driver assistant thingy.

I have a ARRIS combo modem/router supplied by FiOS that I'm connecting to, which has never been a problem on any other device in my bedroom (Switch, Macbook, iPad, Android phone...). Nor did I ever have any issues connecting to it from my last desktop and its onboard wifi (which my roommate now uses and has no issues wtih). This router broadcasts both both a 2.4 and 5 Ghz network.

My symptoms are:

* When I connect to the 2.4 network, I get random wi-fi hiccups about every 5 minutes, where for around 5-30 seconds I can't load anything. I don't see anything logged in the Windows Event Viewer, other than the DNS errors you'd expect.

* The same issue occurs with the 5ghz network. This is a very qualitative measurement, but I feel like it happens slightly more often, and is more severe in nature.

* Usually, either wifi issue can be resolved by disconnecting and reconnecting though as you can imagine, this is not an ideal thing to do when I'm playing an online game

* Additionally, I've encountered an issue with Bluetooth: I just got a new Xbox Series X controller to use with my PC, and I've found that it also disconnects about every 5 minutes, and is able to reconnect automatically after a 5-10 second delay. This could just be a separate issue, but it feels... suspicious, to me.

I feel like this might be some kind of interference issue, or something - after all, I do have a Macbook, iPad, Bluetooth speakers, Switch, and Bluetooth keyboard all sitting on my desk - but I have no idea how I'd resolve it. The only real things I've tried have been disabling Bluetooth to see if the Wi-fi gets more stable (which seems to not help noticibly, though I continue to experiment...), and trying to use the Wi-Fi antenna from my previous computer with my new onboard Wifi, which doesn't seem to help.

Any of this sound familiar to anyone who's done a build with onboard wifi lately? AFAIK, the AX200 is kinda the only game in town for new builds, so I was surprised I couldn't find a lot of help debugging this online. I don't know what to do other than bite the bullet and get USB wifi and bluetooth adapter(s) (I don't have PCI-E slots for a wifi card, given that it's an ITX build...), but I'm scared that'll be a waste of $30 that won't help if it turns out the issue is interference.

abraham linksys fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Nov 28, 2020

Bioshuffle
Feb 10, 2011

No good deed goes unpunished



I just bought a SSD hard drive to upgrade from my HDD harddrive, but I realized I have absolutely no idea how to move Windows 10 over to the SSD. I'm trying to google it, but there are way too many different ones out there. Is there an easy tutorial out there?

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust


Grimey Drawer

If you just want to put an exact copy of your hard dive to the SSD then I've used Macrium to do it before and it went fine.

Depressing Box
Jun 27, 2010

Half-price sideshow.


Kingnothing posted:

Try uninstalling your driver with DDU and reinstall it.

Make sure you donít have any third party apps running that ďOCĒ your card.

I'm not running any OC apps, though my 3070 is a factory OC model. Should I try to underclock it (if that's the word)?

Beasteh
Feb 12, 2012

I'M QUESTIONING MY EXISTENCE AND THIS IDIOT JUST WANTS TO PEE OFF A WALL



Hello goons, I live in the UK and would like to purchase a prebuilt PC over this weekend. My budget is around £1500. Looking for something that will last, all the sites I've looked at for prebuilt machines have been absolute ripoffs

Obfuscation
Jan 1, 2008
Good luck to you, I know you believe in hell

whatever

Obfuscation fucked around with this message at 11:24 on Nov 30, 2020

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!



KinkyJohn posted:

So what are the chances of ever buying a 3070 or 3080 at msrp prices?

I guess the best move if you want to build a new system right now is to not build a system right now, amd 5000 cpus and nvidia 3000 cards are out of stock and being scalped like crazy

low but not impossible. if you look at the discords that have been posted about and just set them to fire off notifications on your phone you can be pretty quick to respond. hell i got a 3070 in canada off of a twitter notification so just being quick and alert for a couple weeks and you have a reasonable chance, i think

Deanut Pancer
Nov 23, 2012


Here's what I currently have been happily running for the last few years:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1700 3 GHz 8-Core Processor (running the stock Wraith cooler)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME X370-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card
My usage is mostly 1080p/1440p gaming, ideally 144Hz when possible.

According to the motherboard docs, my ASUS Prime X370 Pro will run up to Ryzen 3x00 series CPUs with the latest BIOS.
I'm considering keeping the mobo and just replacing the 1700 with a 3600 or 3600X before they disappear from stores forever, as this will likely be the last upgrade the mobo can take without starting again from scratch.
Is the 3600 a realistic/noticeable upgrade from the 1700, considering it would be going down from 8C/16 to 6C/12, but going up in clockspeed?

Both 3600 and 3600X in in my local store, with the 3600X priced about 10% over the 3600. If I prefer to stick with the stock coolers, is one a better option than the other?

LGD
Sep 25, 2004




KinkyJohn posted:

So what are the chances of ever buying a 3070 or 3080 at msrp prices?

I guess the best move if you want to build a new system right now is to not build a system right now, amd 5000 cpus and nvidia 3000 cards are out of stock and being scalped like crazy

like others have been saying, you have pretty good odds if you sit in a stock tracking discord and set up alerts - youíll likely have a lot of failures but you should eventually get one (and you might be like my friend who somehow got a 6800 non-XT after a single day)

you just also need to decide how picky you want to be with partner cards/specific model - I ended up with a factory OC Zotac 3080 with lots of RGB that I wouldnít have selected normally that was like $60/70 above the reference price (Iím still *very* happy with it), and it took much longer b/c I wanted a 3080 specifically

3070s appear to come in stock more often and in greater numbers than 3080s, so if youíre not too picky and willing to pay a bit of a premium for a factory OC version it shouldnít take you too long

LGD fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Nov 28, 2020

Action-Bastard
Jan 1, 2008



GPU inquiry;

I'm rocking a newly built PC with some carry over parts from my old rig. Notably the gpu is a MSI 1050ti, I think its time to upgrade.

CPU: AMD 5 Ryzen 3600
Mobo: MSI X470 Gaming Plus Max
RAM: 16gb ddr4 3000
PSU: 550w Corsair
Case is a big fucker Corsair Air 540 with dual 140mm fans, space and air cooling will not be a problem.

I know the stock and availability is fucky right now, but I'm looking for suggestions at $300 or lower. I have zero preference between Nvidia and AMD. Budget is pretty firm I have other expenses to worry about.

My only preference is that its manufactured by MSI, they've been great to me over the years. Thanks for any suggestions you can offer.

Action-Bastard fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Nov 28, 2020

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World


Action-Bastard posted:

GPU inquiry;

I'm rocking a newly built PC with some carry over parts from my old rig. Notably the gpu is a MSI 1050ti, I think its time to upgrade.

CPU: AMD 5 Ryzen 3600
Mobo: MSI X470 Gaming Plus Max
RAM: 16gb ddr4 3000
PSU: 550w Corsair
Case is a big fucker Corsair Air 540 with dual 140mm fans, space and air cooling will not be a problem.

I know the stock and availability is fucky right now, but I'm looking for suggestions at $300 or lower. I have zero preference between Nvidia and AMD. Budget is pretty firm I have other expenses to worry about.

My only preference is that its manufactured by MSI, they've been great to me over the years. Thanks for any suggestions you can offer.

When in stock the 1660 Super Gaming X from MSI is supposed to go for like $260 I think? Still a good 1080p60 card.

Some dildos try to sell them for $450 or some poo poo but they're usually fairly available at MSRP.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007




Depressing Box posted:

I'm not running any OC apps, though my 3070 is a factory OC model. Should I try to underclock it (if that's the word)?

You should try the other recommended steps first.

Undervolting is not likely to help, and shouldnít be required to get a functional card.

If it crashes only when not undervolted it should be RMAíd.

Reseat the card in the slot + GPU power cables.

Make sure youíre not running off a spilt power cable for the 8-pin jacks on the card.

Uninstall the GPU drivers with DDU and reinstall.

Action-Bastard
Jan 1, 2008



sean10mm posted:

When in stock the 1660 Super Gaming X from MSI is supposed to go for like $260 I think? Still a good 1080p60 card.

Some dildos try to sell them for $450 or some poo poo but they're usually fairly available at MSRP.

Yeah I'm tracking poo poo via PC Part Picker, 1660 Super was one I was looking at.

Also 5500XT and RX 580. But the 1660S seems to be the better value when its in stock.

sebmojo
Oct 23, 2010


Legit Cyberpunk


Bioshuffle posted:

I just bought a SSD hard drive to upgrade from my HDD harddrive, but I realized I have absolutely no idea how to move Windows 10 over to the SSD. I'm trying to google it, but there are way too many different ones out there. Is there an easy tutorial out there?

It's fairly easy; you need to shrink your hd to the same size or smaller than the ssd (might need to move or delete files) then you use something like macrium reflect to clone the hd onto the ssd. Once you've done that just remove the hd and windows will boot from the ssd.

this guide looks ok.

Munkaboo
Aug 4, 2002

If you know the words, you can join in too
He's bigger! faster! stronger too!
He's the newest member of the Jags O-Line crew!


So I'm taking a week off from work between jobs and it's in a week. I was going to use that time to build a new pc and I was hoping to have the 5800x in time but I don't think it's going to ship from Amazon. Am I really going to notice that big of a difference if I just settle on a 10700/10850k?

Or just get a cheaper am3 and then swap it once I get the 5800x?

I generally only upgrade once every 3-4 years. I want this to last to my second video card that can handle 4k 120hz gaming.

Munkaboo fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Nov 30, 2020

Gunder
May 21, 2003

97.5 The Brodeo


Replaced my AMD Wraith Prism cooler with a Be Quiet Dark Rock 4. Itís so much quieter. The only fiddly part of the installation was using the wire clips to mount the fan onto the cooling tower. The rest was a breeze. Certainly much improved from my Cryorig H7. That thing took two people to get mounted.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

abraham linksys posted:

hey y'all, will take this to Haus of Tech Support if there's no quick answer, but I've been having a bad time with Bluetooth and Wifi since I got my new computer built.

I did an ITX build using an MSI MPG B550I GAMING EDGE WIFI B550 board. Like a lot of ITX boards, this has an onboard Intel Wi-Fi 6 AX200 chip. I've got the most recent drivers for that chipset, using Intel's driver assistant thingy.

I have a ARRIS combo modem/router supplied by FiOS that I'm connecting to, which has never been a problem on any other device in my bedroom (Switch, Macbook, iPad, Android phone...). Nor did I ever have any issues connecting to it from my last desktop and its onboard wifi (which my roommate now uses and has no issues wtih). This router broadcasts both both a 2.4 and 5 Ghz network.

My symptoms are:

* When I connect to the 2.4 network, I get random wi-fi hiccups about every 5 minutes, where for around 5-30 seconds I can't load anything. I don't see anything logged in the Windows Event Viewer, other than the DNS errors you'd expect.

* The same issue occurs with the 5ghz network. This is a very qualitative measurement, but I feel like it happens slightly more often, and is more severe in nature.

* Usually, either wifi issue can be resolved by disconnecting and reconnecting though as you can imagine, this is not an ideal thing to do when I'm playing an online game

* Additionally, I've encountered an issue with Bluetooth: I just got a new Xbox Series X controller to use with my PC, and I've found that it also disconnects about every 5 minutes, and is able to reconnect automatically after a 5-10 second delay. This could just be a separate issue, but it feels... suspicious, to me.

I feel like this might be some kind of interference issue, or something - after all, I do have a Macbook, iPad, Bluetooth speakers, Switch, and Bluetooth keyboard all sitting on my desk - but I have no idea how I'd resolve it. The only real things I've tried have been disabling Bluetooth to see if the Wi-fi gets more stable (which seems to not help noticibly, though I continue to experiment...), and trying to use the Wi-Fi antenna from my previous computer with my new onboard Wifi, which doesn't seem to help.

Any of this sound familiar to anyone who's done a build with onboard wifi lately? AFAIK, the AX200 is kinda the only game in town for new builds, so I was surprised I couldn't find a lot of help debugging this online. I don't know what to do other than bite the bullet and get USB wifi and bluetooth adapter(s) (I don't have PCI-E slots for a wifi card, given that it's an ITX build...), but I'm scared that'll be a waste of $30 that won't help if it turns out the issue is interference.

Iíve got similar problems with my Gigabyte B450i right now. I think Iíll try exchanging it. Drivers havenít worked, and neither has moving the antenna or updating the BIOS.

ShowTime
Mar 28, 2005

Expecto Patronum! Expelliarmus! Abracadabra! Argh, none of these are working.
Oh well, fall back plan.
ROOOAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRR!


KinkyJohn posted:

So what are the chances of ever buying a 3070 or 3080 at msrp prices?

I guess the best move if you want to build a new system right now is to not build a system right now, amd 5000 cpus and nvidia 3000 cards are out of stock and being scalped like crazy

Not happening unless you get lucky with a combo deal on Newegg or something. I even gave up on trying to build mine, for the most part. I'm still on the stockdrops discord and will try and buy the parts as I see them, but it's basically impossible unless you get lucky. I managed to score a 5800x but I want something more powerful for my next one, so I just canceled the order before it shipped. It wasn't worth selling on Ebay and it's not super desired, especially when you consider it was part of a combo.

I'm just gonna read for the next year I guess.

anilEhilated
Feb 17, 2014

But I say fuck the rain.



Grimey Drawer

So, given there's very little chance of getting a 30xx card nowadays (especially in goddamn Europe), is there any point in getting a 2080 for a 1440p screen? Purpose is gaming and streaming/recording gaming; I currently have a 1050 TI.

anilEhilated fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Nov 29, 2020

Toxic Fart Syndrome
Jul 2, 2006

*hits A-THREAD-5*

Only 3.6 Roentgoons per hour ... not great, not terrible.




...the meter only goes to 3.6...



Pork Pro

anilEhilated posted:

So, given there's very little chance of getting a 30xx card nowadays (especially in goddamn Europe), is there any point in getting a 2080 for a 1440p screen? Purpose is gaming and streaming/recording gaming; I currently have a 1050 TI.

If you can do the EVGA Step Up program you can buy a 20X0 card (priced less than the 30X0 you want) and just pay the difference for the upgrade. No idea how long that will take, but you will get a card eventually...

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

Begone Trump, hello cool dog, you're welcome. And be ein good goon.


anilEhilated posted:

So, given there's very little chance of getting a 30xx card nowadays (especially in goddamn Europe), is there any point in getting a 2080 for a 1440p screen? Purpose is gaming and streaming/recording gaming; I currently have a 1050 TI.

Using the stock drops discord I managed to get a 3080 FE at the start of the month and since then there's been plenty of opportunities to get the cards, although I live in Luxembourg where I can choose from the French or German sites and get them delivered to me here. There's also been plenty on UK Amazon which delivers to lots of places in the EU (but probably not after Dec 31st!), so don't give up yet.

The 30x0 series cards have all that extra poo poo built in specifically for streamers so I wouldn't settle if I were you.

infraboy
Aug 15, 2002

Phungshwei!!!!!!1123

So people are apparently even buying up cards like the 5700xt and trying to resell them for 500+ $, the world really has gone haywire, at least according to Amazon prices.

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World


The RTX 3070 series and 5600x/5800x CPUs are absolutely buyable. It's just a huge pain in the rear end and can take days or weeks.

There is no "go to Newegg once a day and see what's up" with buying this stuff.

You need to keep a stock monitoring discord channel open on your PC or phone and literally click the link to buy the loving second it goes off, then keep re clicking when it inevitably fails at some point because the store's website can't handle the traffic until the listing is gone. Sometimes they disappear amd reappear in a minute because the online store eats poo poo from all the traffic at once.

Also you need to have the payment information saved on all the major online stores so you don't get screwed because you had to waste time typing in your payment and shipping info.

Also you can't be fussy about the specific brand or model of card. Getting some kind of 3070 is probably no big deal. Getting an exact model is a lot sketchier.

Most of the time it will fail, but over a period of days your odds are OK. I got two RTX 3070 and two 5800x that way.

For higher end stuff things get stupid real fast though. Like if you need a 5950X and a specific RTX 3090 model uh

Of course none of this matters if Real Life makes none of this remotely practical for you, or you don't care enough and would just as soon wait a couple months for stuff to calm down (we hope).

sean10mm fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Nov 29, 2020

Boxman
Sep 27, 2004

Big fan of




Its funny because, for a lot of relatively comfortable people (presumably the sort thinking about splashing $500+ on a new video card in the middle of some of the worst economic distress our country has seen in a century), the pandemic makes this process easier. Being at home makes keeping a second screen up and being ready to pounce on an alert way easier. Which may partially explain why stock is flying.

zhar
May 3, 2019



If I fully upgrade to a 5950x with cooling, full ram, plenty of hard drives etc and I have 2 video cards, one 3080 and one 660ti, is a 750w psu enough or should I spring for a 850?

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World


zhar posted:

If I fully upgrade to a 5950x with cooling, full ram, plenty of hard drives etc and I have 2 video cards, one 3080 and one 660ti, is a 750w psu enough or should I spring for a 850?

You can use the PC Part Picker system builder and see the estimated wattage, then go with a PSU bigger than that so you have some headroom.

Keep in mind that if you're overclocking any of that it can send the power draw into crazytown territory pretty fast.

KingKapalone
Dec 20, 2005
1/16 Native American + 1/2 Hungarian = Totally Badass

Will a B550 board support a Ryzen 1600x? My friend is getting the CPU for free. The zen 3 CPUs are the last using AM4 right? So then getting a 550 over 450 doesn't make it anymore future proof I guess.

DoctorTristan
Mar 11, 2006

I would look up into your lifeless eyes and wave, like this. Can you and your associates arrange that for me, Mr. Morden?

After trying to spec out a build and seeing the price shoot up by £100 between posts I think I'm going to have to hold off on my upgrade plans for a few more months.

Is there any one reason for all the shortages/price craziness? Or just a combination of new CPU/GPU hardware generations + people stuck at home + Cyberpunk 2077 ?

ShowTime
Mar 28, 2005

Expecto Patronum! Expelliarmus! Abracadabra! Argh, none of these are working.
Oh well, fall back plan.
ROOOAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRR!


sean10mm posted:

The RTX 3070 series and 5600x/5800x CPUs are absolutely buyable. It's just a huge pain in the rear end and can take days or weeks.

There is no "go to Newegg once a day and see what's up" with buying this stuff.

You need to keep a stock monitoring discord channel open on your PC or phone and literally click the link to buy the loving second it goes off, then keep re clicking when it inevitably fails at some point because the store's website can't handle the traffic until the listing is gone. Sometimes they disappear amd reappear in a minute because the online store eats poo poo from all the traffic at once.

Also you need to have the payment information saved on all the major online stores so you don't get screwed because you had to waste time typing in your payment and shipping info.

Also you can't be fussy about the specific brand or model of card. Getting some kind of 3070 is probably no big deal. Getting an exact model is a lot sketchier.

Most of the time it will fail, but over a period of days your odds are OK. I got two RTX 3070 and two 5800x that way.

For higher end stuff things get stupid real fast though. Like if you need a 5950X and a specific RTX 3090 model uh

Of course none of this matters if Real Life makes none of this remotely practical for you, or you don't care enough and would just as soon wait a couple months for stuff to calm down (we hope).

This is absolutely true. On the weekends you can kind of take a break from monitoring too as there aren't alot of drops.

Starting tomorrow though, you need to monitor that discord. And the combo deals are the most secure way to get them.

DoctorTristan posted:

After trying to spec out a build and seeing the price shoot up by £100 between posts I think I'm going to have to hold off on my upgrade plans for a few more months.

Is there any one reason for all the shortages/price craziness? Or just a combination of new CPU/GPU hardware generations + people stuck at home + Cyberpunk 2077 ?

I think if you can hold out, you should. It's new generations, people stuck at home and wanting to get stuff because its the holidays and bitcoin prices shot up again, so a lot of miners are buying everything up. But also, because of the demand, everyone is on board with buying them up because of the ability to resale and make a quick buck. I think, even a small part of it, is that the PS5 and Xbox are hard to get so people are turning to PC gaming now.

It's basically a perfect storm of fuckery.

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010




How picky should I be with RAM, with CAS 14 vs 16, 3000 vs 3200 or whatever? I'm going Ryzen, which I guess is a factor.

Also should I be considering overclocking or something? I've never wanted to gently caress around with that sort of stuff and have always left things at default. I've always seen it as too much risk to my components for what I've assumed is little gain.

Wrr fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Nov 29, 2020

Toxic Fart Syndrome
Jul 2, 2006

*hits A-THREAD-5*

Only 3.6 Roentgoons per hour ... not great, not terrible.




...the meter only goes to 3.6...



Pork Pro

Wrr posted:

How picky should I be with RAM, with CAS 14 vs 16, 3000 vs 3200 or whatever? I'm going Ryzen, which I guess is a factor.

3600 CAS 16 is the thread favorite, but general consensus is lower CAS > higher clockspeed.

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010




Okay, with that in mind then, is there a reason to go for the more expensive Corsair option rather than the cheaper ones?



I trust corsair and have never heard of those other brands, but am I just tossing money away not going cheap?

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

KingKapalone posted:

Will a B550 board support a Ryzen 1600x? My friend is getting the CPU for free. The zen 3 CPUs are the last using AM4 right? So then getting a 550 over 450 doesn't make it anymore future proof I guess.

B550 is compatible with 3000 and 5000 series chips only as far as I know. A B450 board is going to be less expensive and is more broadly compatible. You don't get in on Wi-Fi 6 or PCIe 4.0, but really I wouldn't stress out about either of those.

Source: https://www.amd.com/en/chipsets/b550

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Nov 29, 2020

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zhar
May 3, 2019



Is installing the stock cooler for a 3600 supposed to require a pants making GBS threads amount of pressure on the screwdriver? Also forgot to install the motherboard standoff screws before plopping the board in the case first time round. Currently praying I haven't hosed it and destroyed a bunch of expensive equipment before I can get the PSU and continue tomorrow . Maybe doing a build is easy if you're smart and attentive to details but I am not.

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