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bus hustler
Mar 14, 2019



For the OP I realize that PCPartPicker does not hit every retailer, every deal, every card but their filters are really second to none in these types of comparisons. I think building some PCPartPicker lists that use parametric selections to automatically show the cheapest 1TB SSD per GB, currently cheapest video card in a category that may have multiple options that make more/less sense based on price will help keep things neater. Prices seem to change day by day (especially around the holidays) and that changes what tier poo poo is in really quick.

If you are in this thread you should probably be buying from the big retailers anyway with known support/return policies but the usual disclaimers about Microcenter, ask if you have any questions before jumping on a short term deal etc:

Stickman posted:

Thanks for writing all this great stuff out! At the beginning where you talk about asking the thread, I'd mention that prices change and there are a lot of interchangeable parts, so there's a good chance that asking will shave a bit of the cost the build. I'd also mention the motherboard/cpu combo deals at Microcenter for US folks.

the somethingawful experts hard at work saving you money on your gaming/hentai rig:

bus hustler fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Nov 14, 2019

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TheFluff
Dec 13, 2006

FRIENDS, LISTEN TO ME
I AM A SEAGULL
OF WEALTH AND TASTE


charity rereg posted:

For the OP I realize that PCPartPicker does not hit every retailer, every deal, every card but their filters are really second to none in these types of comparisons.

geizhals.eu would like a word. PCPartPicker is okay-ish for some parts (for GPU's it's decent for example), but check out the monitors category on Geizhals - there's something like 100 different filter parameters just for this one product category. Unfortunatly it's EU market only though.

Rosalind
Apr 30, 2013

When we hit our lowest point, we are open to the greatest change.



Not really sure where to post this so I hope it's ok for this thread since it's upgrade-related. I recently built a new computer and I have my old one still that a friend has expressed an interest in buying. I've made it very clear to her she'd be buying it as-is and that some of the parts in it are nearly 8 years old now so I highly recommend she not store anything important on it. I know hard disk failure rates increase dramatically at the 5 year mark.

She just wants a dirt cheap gaming box while she saves up for something better and this fits the bill. I think it'll probably last another year or two and can run most games at 1080p with decent settings.

I'm having trouble figuring out what price to ask for. She is insistent that she pay me something or else I would have just traded it for a nice dinner or something.

Here are the specs:
Intel Core I5-3570 (from 2012)
Asus P8Z77-V motherboard (from 2012)
Geforce GTX 970 (from 2016)
8 GB DDR memory (from 2012)
128 GB Samsung SSD (from 2015)
1 TB 7200 rpm Samsung HDD (from 2012)
Newish power supply (from 2018)
Newish case and fans (from 2018)

What would people value this at? I was thinking of just asking for $100. Is that fair?

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.



$100 sounds like a good friend price. I'd caution her on the hard drive though, 7 years is pretty old so I wouldn't save anything important to it / expect to replace it sooner rather than later.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Yeah, $100 for a newish case, PSU, and a 970 is a good deal for her even if she ends up replacing the drives/cpu/mobo/ram (which she could do for $250-$350). You could probably get a little more on Craigslist or parting it out, but thatís a good friend price.

bus hustler
Mar 14, 2019



FWIW my friend/coworker has almost that same setup except with a larger primary SSD and he uses it for Twitch streaming - a lightish weight game but he has received no negative feedback about stream quality. There's still a lot of life left in that system.

Agrajag
Jan 21, 2006

gat dang thats hot


I'm not really going to be buying new parts within the next few months but looking at 2020 onward will my pc still hold up for gaming? Im thinking games like Cyberpunk 2077, Death Stranding, and I suppose RDR 2 at 1440p 144hz? Currently I only play Destiny 2. The reason I'm asking this is because I recently picked up the 1440p monitor and I'm noticing that I'm not even pushing max refresh rate for the monitor in Destiny 2. I think I'm averaging anywhere from 80-110's.

My system is:

Intel i5 7600k (oc'ed to 4ghz iirc)
16gb ram
EVGA GTX 1070
(I'm already using NVME for the OS and another SSD specifically for games. Might look into Samsung's QVO for mass storage)

Agrajag fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Nov 14, 2019

MikeC
Jul 19, 2004

ACTUALLY IS MIKE CERNOVICH. WAS TOO STUPID TO FIGURE OUT THAT THE TRUMP LOVER AVATAR WAS THE STUPID NEWBIE AVATAR

Agrajag posted:

I'm not really going to be buying new parts within the next few months but looking at 2020 onward will my pc still hold up for gaming? Im thinking games like Cyberpunk 2077, Death Stranding, and I suppose RDR 2 at 1440p 144hz? Currently I only play Destiny 2.

My system is:

Intel i5 7600k (oc'ed to 4ghz iirc)
16gb ram
EVGA GTX 1070
(I'm already using NVME for the OS and another SSD specifically for games. Might look into Samsung's QVO for mass storage)

Your GPU is starting to age a bit for 1440p. If you can live with reduced settings and 60 fps, you should be fine. Just don't expect high or ultra out of the box settings. Some tweaking will be required.

@Stickman Wilco, will edit tonight when I get home.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009



Agrajag posted:

I'm not really going to be buying new parts within the next few months but looking at 2020 onward will my pc still hold up for gaming? Im thinking games like Cyberpunk 2077, Death Stranding, and I suppose RDR 2 at 1440p 144hz? Currently I only play Destiny 2. The reason I'm asking this is because I recently picked up the 1440p monitor and I'm noticing that I'm not even pushing max refresh rate for the monitor in Destiny 2. I think I'm averaging anywhere from 80-110's.

My system is:

Intel i5 7600k (oc'ed to 4ghz iirc)
16gb ram
EVGA GTX 1070
(I'm already using NVME for the OS and another SSD specifically for games. Might look into Samsung's QVO for mass storage)

Depending on your settings you might need to upgrade the GPU I'd think. I thought the 7600k can be pushed more than that, by default it goes to 4.2ghz on at least some of the cores. Might be worth looking at a proper OC, also use something like HWinfo64 to see if your GPU or CPU are bottlenecking you.

I really wouldn't upgrade your CPU right now from a 7600k, it should be fine at least for a year. 16gb of RAM is plenty for games.

Rosalind
Apr 30, 2013

When we hit our lowest point, we are open to the greatest change.



Thank you everyone for your advice. I've offered it to her at $100 and said if she buys a hard drive for it, I'll come over and show her how to install it.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Agrajag posted:

I'm not really going to be buying new parts within the next few months but looking at 2020 onward will my pc still hold up for gaming? Im thinking games like Cyberpunk 2077, Death Stranding, and I suppose RDR 2 at 1440p 144hz? Currently I only play Destiny 2. The reason I'm asking this is because I recently picked up the 1440p monitor and I'm noticing that I'm not even pushing max refresh rate for the monitor in Destiny 2. I think I'm averaging anywhere from 80-110's.

My system is:

Intel i5 7600k (oc'ed to 4ghz iirc)
16gb ram
EVGA GTX 1070
(I'm already using NVME for the OS and another SSD specifically for games. Might look into Samsung's QVO for mass storage)

You definitely won't push max refresh rates in AAA games, but even a 2080 Ti / 9900k won't for most of them. Destiny 2 in particular has a hard cap around 90-120 in firefights that no hardware can push past. On the plus side, *sync makes frame rates <144 nice and smooth!

Your 7600k will likely have a few issues with RDR2, but many modern cpus do, too - a 9700k is actually the worst for the launch build! Fortunately, the stuttering can be fixed with a cpu-limiter until Rockstar gets around to fixing performance.

It's impossible to say whether unrealeased games will have frame pacing issues with a 4c/4t processor, but they're also still a ways off.

Here To Help
Aug 16, 2008


Stickman posted:

This looks good and it sounds like you have a handle on the options. For gaming right now a 3700x will perform similarly to a 3600, but it's not too expensive of an upgrade.

The Tuf and Elite are pretty similar - the main difference is that the Tuf has a USB-c port on the back but no front-panel usb-c header while the Elite has a front-panel header but none on the back. Since the H510 has a front-panel usb-c port, you might prefer the Elite.

For your SSD, look for deals on the HP ex920, Inland Premium, Sabrent Rocket, Corsair MP510, or Silicon Power A80. The WD Blue is a SATA drive rather than proper NVMe, but there's not really a noticeable difference in gaming performance. The Crucial MX500, Samsung 860 Evo (not QVO), and Adata su800 are all good SATA drives that are worthwhile if they offer a bit of savings over the NVMe options.

The Mugen 5 is great, but isn't strictly necessary. The stock cooler on 3700x is sufficient for cooling, though it's a bit too loud for some people.

I'd consider leaving the H510 in it's stock negative-pressure configuration (2x exhaust, no intake). Gamersnexus found that it reduces gpu temperatures at the cost of slightly increased CPU temperatures, and gpu temps are what's most important for gaming.

E: You're selected monitor is a VA panel, which tend to have a noticeable amount of ghosting due to their slow pixel response time. There's several good 1440p/144Hz IPS options available right now in the same price range - I'd ask for recommendations over in the monitor thread!

Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. I've got some other monitors I'm looking at as well (ex: Pixio px275h ips). Great info on the SSD, I'll take a look around!

Tatsuta Age
Apr 21, 2005

so good at being in trouble



Just a happy shout out to the thread for your help. Got a B450 board and 2700X, which I'll upgrade to a 3900X when the prices come down some. Maybe next year.

Anyway, this upgrade of mobo/cpu/hdd/ram from a 4770k-based system (reused my case and PSU) ended up costing under $300 from Microcenter by leaning heavily into some open box parts. Really kickass stuff, and I can throw my old stuff in a case to use as a pfsense router and NAS combo. Thanks guys!

bus hustler
Mar 14, 2019



Hell yeah, Microcenter owns. I clicked your post history to see which build you were and saw you sold the game it came with too which is a great idea.

Ryzen 5 2600 + ASRock B450 PRO4 AM4 ATX + $50 16GB Newegg RAM at Microcenter is loving right now $215 + tax for the guts of a new system ($225 without a rebate). You could do a 1600 for under $200 after tax.

fargom
Mar 21, 2007


charity rereg posted:

Hell yeah, Microcenter owns. I clicked your post history to see which build you were and saw you sold the game it came with too which is a great idea.

Ryzen 5 2600 + ASRock B450 PRO4 AM4 ATX + $50 16GB Newegg RAM at Microcenter is loving right now $215 + tax for the guts of a new system ($225 without a rebate). You could do a 1600 for under $200 after tax.

Yeah it's crazy. I'm planning on building a super basic 1080p gaming machine to bring to a buddy for a Christmas gift to his family. He has a 6/10 year old kids and no computer right now so I'm gonna throw together a 2600/b450/ system with some sort of GPU and surprise the hell out of them for super cheap since I'm close to the tustin CA microcenter.

Ignis
Mar 31, 2011

I take it you don't want my autograph, then.




What's a good PCIE wifi/bluetooth to use these days? I'm very fond of Atheros (but Intel works too I guess) looking for something that won't give me much trouble with dualbooting Win10 and Mint. Speeds aren't as important cuz I'm stuck with 10mbps from my ISP anyways.

Khablam
Mar 29, 2012

#essereFerrari


Just pick one known to work well in mint/linux (check their forums), and get that one.
It's nearly always an intel chipset you want on linux.

Agrajag
Jan 21, 2006

gat dang thats hot


Thanks for all the info for to my question.

If I'm correct, from reading the replies, is that my cpu is getting a bit old but I should hold off on any cpu related upgrades for now. I think I tried OC'ing I think I have it at like 4.59ghz? (at least that's what its boosting up to with Destiny 2 running) IIRC anything past that I was getting crashes so I kept it conservative.

As for my gpu would a 2060 super better utilize my 1440p monitor, or should I wait for whatever comes after the 20XX series?

Agrajag fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Nov 15, 2019

bus hustler
Mar 14, 2019



AMD RX 5700 would be the best choice in the ~$325-350 price range. Prices will likely shift over a few months, but the 5700 tends to equal or best the 2060 Super @ 1440p and is cheaper. The 2060 Super is a weird card, you are probably better served saving up $90 more for a 2070 Super or sticking with the 5700 for $300-350 depending on sales & rebates. If the 2060 Super drops in price or something you really wouldn't be poorly served by either card.

bus hustler fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Nov 15, 2019

Incessant Excess
Aug 15, 2005

Cause of glitch:
Pretentiousness


I currently have two PCs, of which I intend to upgrade one and now I'm wondering if it's worth keeping some of the parts. Here's what I got:

Desktop from 2012, browsing, light gaming and a very small amount of video editing:
i5-3570k
asus p8z77-v
16gb ddr3-1600
256gb samsung 830 ssd
Fractal Design Define R3
Sapphire Pulse Radeon RX 580 8GB
XFX Pro Silver 750W ATX 2.3

Living room PC from 2015, gaming:
i5-6500 (4C/4T)
asrock h170m-itx
16gb ddr4-2133
1tb sandisk ssd plus
Silverstone RVZ02
zotac geforce 1080 mini
silverstone 500w 80+ gold

I wanna upgrade my living room PC as the CPU isn't great for modern games and the PSU doesn't allow for high-end GPUs. It being an ITX case means that if I want to upgrade the CPU and PSU I need to disassemble the entire thing, so I figure I may as well upgrade the rest since it's the same amount of work.

I'm wondering if it'd be worth it to put the old components of my living room PC into my even older Desktop, get another two or three years out of them that way. I don't do all that much on my Desktop but I do notice things sometimes taking a bit when I have a lot of tabs and applications open. The idea is to basically take the MB+CPU+RAM+GPU+SSD from the living room PC and put it in the Desktop, something I'm hopefully able to do without also having to take the entire desktop apart. A fools errand?

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.



I don't get what you mean by not taking the desktop apart when you're going to have to gut it to put all the new stuff in.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


If youíre building a new computer to replace the living room pc, why not just replace the desktop with your living room pc instead of mixing the components?

bus hustler
Mar 14, 2019



Incessant Excess posted:


I wanna upgrade my living room PC as the CPU isn't great for modern games and the PSU doesn't allow for high-end GPUs. It being an ITX case means that if I want to upgrade the CPU and PSU I need to disassemble the entire thing, so I figure I may as well upgrade the rest since it's the same amount of work.

I'm wondering if it'd be worth it to put the old components of my living room PC into my even older Desktop, get another two or three years out of them that way. I don't do all that much on my Desktop but I do notice things sometimes taking a bit when I have a lot of tabs and applications open. The idea is to basically take the MB+CPU+RAM+GPU+SSD from the living room PC and put it in the Desktop, something I'm hopefully able to do without also having to take the entire desktop apart. A fools errand?

Toss your existing Desktop From 2012 on Craigslist for $100-150 and see if it sells (it should at that price). Use that money to buy a new ITX case and power supply, which are the only parts you otherwise aren't moving over. Don't spend time disassembling or frankensteining either. Move the Living Room PC to be the new Desktop From 2015 and build a New Living Room PC (2019/20)

edit: drat you!!

Incessant Excess
Aug 15, 2005

Cause of glitch:
Pretentiousness


ItBreathes posted:

I don't get what you mean by not taking the desktop apart when you're going to have to gut it to put all the new stuff in.

Stickman posted:

If you’re building a new computer to replace the living room pc, why not just replace the desktop with your living room pc instead of mixing the components?

I was kinda visualizing the MB+RAM+CPU as a single part that I wouldn't have to do much more with than to plug in and hook up, so I wouldn't need to do the time-intensive cable routing again. I can see tho that I'm not really gaining all that much by doing that, basically just the larger case, PSU and the hard drives inside it (can't put em in the mini itx case), but I guess that's something I can give up if I manage to get some money back selling the PC.

Some Goon
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.



I don't know what your cable routing situation is like, but putting in the motherboard is like 90% of building a PC.

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Incessant Excess posted:

I was kinda visualizing the MB+RAM+CPU as a single part that I wouldn't have to do much more with than to plug in and hook up, so I wouldn't need to do the time-intensive cable routing again. I can see tho that I'm not really gaining all that much by doing that, basically just the larger case, PSU and the hard drives inside it (can't put em in the mini itx case), but I guess that's something I can give up if I manage to get some money back selling the PC.

Using the extra space for hard drives is a decent reason to move to the larger case, and it should be easy enough. Alternatively, just get large external drive like a WD Elements and use that!

If that XFX psu is old and out of warranty, I'd consider replacing it before it dies and potentially takes other components with it. A Corsair CX 550w would be sufficient and save $20-25 over good gold models (though the gold has a 10-year warranty instead of 5 so would safely carry over to new machines longer). You'd need to do cable routing again, though!

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!

My 1660 super came and there is a screw in the box. No screws missing that I can see without taking it apart. Going to try it and hope for the best.

Kalman
Jan 17, 2010

USPOL May

wormil posted:

My 1660 super came and there is a screw in the box. No screws missing that I can see without taking it apart. Going to try it and hope for the best.



Is it the right size for fastening the card to the case once you remove the metal masking the slot?

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Check your backplate and make sure it looks like this. If it's one of the four screws keeping the heatsink tight against the gpu having it lose could potentially be a problem.

wormil
Sep 12, 2002

Hulk will smoke you!

Kalman posted:

Is it the right size for fastening the card to the case once you remove the metal masking the slot?

Too small.

Edit, also smaller than the heat sink screws, but they are all there.

Exodor
Oct 1, 2004


Getting ready to pull the trigger on a new build. It's primarily for gaming at 1440p. I have a 2060 that I''ll be bringing over from my current PC.

Anything obvious that I should reconsider?

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.00 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($48.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($74.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.98 @ Amazon)
Case: be quiet! Pure Base 600 ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.90 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($105.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $738.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-15 14:38 EST-0500


I added the CPU cooler to keep the noise levels down - I've had bad experiences in the past with noisy CPU fans and replacing the cooler after it's installed is much more of a hassle than installing a cooler as part of the build process. Is the stock AMD cooler quiet enough to make the Scythe unnecessary? I tried googling reviews but couldn't find one that compared noise levels to stock.

I spend a lot of time playing WoW which I understand is pretty demanding of the CPU. Is it worth upgrading to the 3700X? My budget is flexible but I don't want to spend more for no reason.

Thanks!

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


Looks good, just some small tweaks.

The stock cooler is sufficient for cooling, but some goons have said it's too loud for their taste. In a Pure Base 600 it would probably be fine unless you're very sensitive to sound. The Mugen is a very nice cooler, but an Arctic Freezer 34 would be quieter and cooler than stock, and save you $20. On the other hand, the Mugen would better transfer to more power-hungry cpus in the future.

If you don't care about the usb-c port, the ASRock Phantom Gaming 4 is the same price (after rebate) and gets you a small VRM boost, upgraded audio, two M.2 slots, a key E slot for a mini wifi/bluetooth card, and PCIe 4.0 (not super important).

At current prices, I'd get the Inland Premium over the Rocket. They're effectively the same drive.

You could also save $20 and with a Corsair RM instead of the Seasonic.

I don't know about the 3600 vs 3700x for WoW specifically. Most games don't scale to that high of core count, but maybe in WoW? There don't seem to many post-multithread-patch benchmarks.

Action-Bastard
Jan 1, 2008



Hey gang, plotting a build I'll probably do early next year. A friend who knows a little more about computers than I suggested I do a clean install of windows on my next system, prior my plan was to just pop in my same old SSD and go.

Parts will be cannibalized from old system to new one. Notably the RAM and graphics card and afformentioned SSD with Windows 10. Current processor is a Intel i5 6500, next processor will be intel as well, I haven't decided on that yet. Current and new motherboard will be MSI, I had to RMA my previous motherboard and they were great so I'm sticking with them.

Sorry if I'm leaving out critical info.

I was able to swap motherboards (I went from a b150 pc mate to a h270 pro) with zero issues other than having configure fans in the config menu. So is a clean install of windows necessary or beneficial?

Thanks in advance.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009



Action-Bastard posted:

Hey gang, plotting a build I'll probably do early next year. A friend who knows a little more about computers than I suggested I do a clean install of windows on my next system, prior my plan was to just pop in my same old SSD and go.

Parts will be cannibalized from old system to new one. Notably the RAM and graphics card and afformentioned SSD with Windows 10. Current processor is a Intel i5 6500, next processor will be intel as well, I haven't decided on that yet. Current and new motherboard will be MSI, I had to RMA my previous motherboard and they were great so I'm sticking with them.

Sorry if I'm leaving out critical info.

I was able to swap motherboards (I went from a b150 pc mate to a h270 pro) with zero issues other than having configure fans in the config menu. So is a clean install of windows necessary or beneficial?

Thanks in advance.

Generally you always want to reinstall windows. You can get a headstart on poo poo by downloading all the installers you're going to want and putting them on another drive or a thumb drive etc.

Constellation I
Apr 3, 2005
I'm a sucker, a little fucker.

Alternatively you can use ninite.com to get all the apps you'd need easily. Though to be fair I haven't used it in a bit.

Ragingsheep
Nov 7, 2009


Would a 5700 be sufficient in playing new games at high/ultra settings at 60fps at 1080p for the next 9 to 12 months (or whenever the 3070/3080 Ampere cards are supposed to come out)?

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002



whats a good atx mid-tower case in the $50-75 range? prefer one with usb-c

The United States
Jul 18, 2004

Please grab the extinguisher


Melman v2

Best Ryzen 3600+ Mini-ITX?

1. There are a lot of Ryzen motherboards, but the only ones that support a 3000 series processor are either a CPU-less flashable B450 or a X570 board

2. There are no CPU-less flashable B450 boards that are Mini-ITX

3. There are only 3 X570 boards that are Mini-ITX. They are as follows:
3a. ASUS ROG Strix X570-I https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ROG-Str...g/dp/B07Y2PZTQ5
3b. Gigabyte X570 I AORUS https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-X57.../dp/B07T9PC9ZZ/
3c. ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming-ITX https://www.amazon.com/X570-Phantom.../dp/B07VXYYG7F/

4. The ASRock has Thunderbolt 3 which is nice but it uses Intel mounting holes, so you can't use the cooler that comes with the Ryzen processor, so lol

5. The Gigabyte is Gigabyte, so I assume there are issues with reliability? Also, from reading about it, sounds like there are case compatibility issues with the shroud and backplate on certain cases, like the Core V1... I assume the backplate is removable but the shroud/integrated I/O shield is less so?

6. The ASUS is the most expensive, but at least should be more reliable and have less case compatibility issues than the Gigabyte?

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

Make your move...'cause mine's gonna be ugly.

BraveUlysses posted:

whats a good atx mid-tower case in the $50-75 range? prefer one with usb-c

The Fractal Design Define C is a little closer to $90 but it's well-made and has USB-C.

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Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

much, much larger than your hat, but not as large as the moon
-DNA


BraveUlysses posted:

whats a good atx mid-tower case in the $50-75 range? prefer one with usb-c

usb-c still isn't very common on mid-range cases, and the NZXT H510 is really the only option in that price range. The Inwin 303c is also pretty good if you decide to stretch your budget.

Without usb-c there's several other decent cases like the Antec P8, Phanteks Eclipse 300/350x/400, one of the tempered glass Masterboxes, or Inwin 101c. Honestly, I'd probably just stretch the extra $10-15 for a Meshify C, though.

BIG HEADLINE posted:

The Fractal Design Define C is a little closer to $90 but it's well-made and has USB-C.

I though it was just the updated R6 and S2s that had usb-c so far?

Stickman fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Nov 15, 2019

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