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Missing Name
Jan 5, 2013



Apollodorus posted:

How long did it take you to get the approval notice?

About a month. They are backed up due to corona.

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moths
Aug 25, 2004



My Type 54 Chinese Tokarev arrived! It's in pristine condition, RGUNS put a very subtle import mark under the barrel, and my only concern was some apparent corrosion in the slide, but I'm looking closer and uh, what the heck is this red?



I haven't stripped it down yet because I've had a few drinks and get clumsy af, but what am I looking at here?

my kinda ape
Sep 15, 2008

Everything's gonna be A-OK


Oven Wrangler

moths posted:

My Type 54 Chinese Tokarev arrived! It's in pristine condition, RGUNS put a very subtle import mark under the barrel, and my only concern was some apparent corrosion in the slide, but I'm looking closer and uh, what the heck is this red?



I haven't stripped it down yet because I've had a few drinks and get clumsy af, but what am I looking at here?

Maybe it's a bunch of excess threadlocker to uh, keep the extractor pin from coming out?

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005

border patrol qt


Plaster Town Cop

So a Turkish Mauser rechambered in 8mm is good to go with just about any ammo I can find, right? Unless itís a bad heat treat job and the gun blows up?

Apollodorus
Feb 13, 2010

TEST YOUR MIGHT
:patriot:


Missing Name posted:

About a month. They are backed up due to corona.

Ah, okay, so I guess I should be hearing something soon.

moths
Aug 25, 2004



my kinda ape posted:

Maybe it's a bunch of excess threadlocker to uh, keep the extractor pin from coming out?

Ok cool, glad I asked!

Somebody Awful
Nov 27, 2011

BORN TO DIE
HAIG IS A FUCK
Kill Em All 1917
I am trench man
410,757,864,530 SHELLS FIRED




infrared35 posted:

So a Turkish Mauser rechambered in 8mm is good to go with just about any ammo I can find, right? Unless itís a bad heat treat job and the gun blows up?

Depends on what kind of Turkish Mauser you have. Ones built on an M98 action (K. Kale, rebuilt Gewehr 98, 1903 Ottoman) should be fine. For a Gewehr 88 or 1890/1893 Ottoman I'd stick to lighter loads.

If in doubt, post pictures. Also make sure to check headspace because bolt mismatches are really common. And stay away from Turkish surplus 7.92 ammo unless you enjoy living dangerously.

my kinda ape
Sep 15, 2008

Everything's gonna be A-OK


Oven Wrangler

moths posted:

Ok cool, glad I asked!

I have no idea if that's what it actually is, but that's what it looks like. Another alternative might be some sort of red grease or cleaning stuff that didn't get wiped out of that crack.

Paul MaudDib
May 2, 2006

"Tell me of your home world, Usul"


my kinda ape posted:

I have no idea if that's what it actually is, but that's what it looks like. Another alternative might be some sort of red grease or cleaning stuff that didn't get wiped out of that crack.

Could be some caked in grease/cosmo.

DeesGrandpa
Oct 21, 2009



My first thought was also cosmo

infrared35
Jan 12, 2005

border patrol qt


Plaster Town Cop

Somebody Awful posted:

Depends on what kind of Turkish Mauser you have. Ones built on an M98 action (K. Kale, rebuilt Gewehr 98, 1903 Ottoman) should be fine. For a Gewehr 88 or 1890/1893 Ottoman I'd stick to lighter loads.

If in doubt, post pictures. Also make sure to check headspace because bolt mismatches are really common. And stay away from Turkish surplus 7.92 ammo unless you enjoy living dangerously.

It's an 1893, with a bolt mismatch. What constitutes a light load? Everything I've seen between surplus and commercial ammo is right around 2500 FPS for a ~200 grain bullet.

Somebody Awful
Nov 27, 2011

BORN TO DIE
HAIG IS A FUCK
Kill Em All 1917
I am trench man
410,757,864,530 SHELLS FIRED




infrared35 posted:

What constitutes a light load? Everything I've seen between surplus and commercial ammo is right around 2500 FPS for a ~200 grain bullet.

Sorry, I was thinking in terms of handloads. I keep seeing people claim that US commercial 7.92 is underloaded for safe use in Gew 88s but I don't know how true that actually is.

mikerock
Oct 29, 2005




Somebody Awful posted:

And stay away from Turkish surplus 7.92 ammo unless you enjoy living dangerously.

And a reminder that 50s Yugo is dodgy as hell.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


moths posted:

My Type 54 Chinese Tokarev arrived! It's in pristine condition, RGUNS put a very subtle import mark under the barrel, and my only concern was some apparent corrosion in the slide, but I'm looking closer and uh, what the heck is this red?



I haven't stripped it down yet because I've had a few drinks and get clumsy af, but what am I looking at here?
Might be paint. A lazy way of making a loaded chamber indicator is to paint the extractor red on top so that when there is a round in there you can see the red. Looks sloppy though so might have just been slapped on for import points?

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Behind every great engineer is someone just hoping the "genius" doesn't bankrupt everyone.



infrared35 posted:

It's an 1893, with a bolt mismatch. What constitutes a light load? Everything I've seen between surplus and commercial ammo is right around 2500 FPS for a ~200 grain bullet.

Check the headspace on it, that's the big worry with Turks.

You'll be fine with SAAMI spec 8mm. US 8mm is significantly lighter than European military 8mm, precisely because they were worried about people blowing up old Gew88s back in the day. This is part of the reason it had a reputation as an anemic hunting round in North America.


Somebody Awful posted:

Depends on what kind of Turkish Mauser you have. Ones built on an M98 action (K. Kale, rebuilt Gewehr 98, 1903 Ottoman) should be fine. For a Gewehr 88 or 1890/1893 Ottoman I'd stick to lighter loads.

If in doubt, post pictures. Also make sure to check headspace because bolt mismatches are really common. And stay away from Turkish surplus 7.92 ammo unless you enjoy living dangerously.

Seconding to avoid the Turkish surplus, if you can even find any. I had a bandoleer of that stuff kicking around in the bottom of my box 'o misc. ammo that I finally shot last year just to get rid of it and holy poo poo I forgot what a hot load it is. It was loving stiff out of a full size Gew98 and just brutal in a K98.

Also, are you sure on 93 action needing the lighter loads? I thought the small ring mausers were good to go on that front and it was the Gew88s that were the big worry.

PeterCat
Apr 8, 2020

Believe women.


Who makes a good adjustable gas plug for the M1 Garand?

Also, assuming I'm running commercial ammunition, do I need to re-adjust the adjustable gas plug when I change from surplus ammo to the commercial ammunition?

DeesGrandpa
Oct 21, 2009



Yep you need to adjust for every different loading

Thermos
Mar 29, 2019





That's uh, certainly a use for a Ross front sight base. :barf:

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008


Supposedly the expansion type gas plug will allow you to shoot everything safely with no adjustment, but people here and gun Jesus did reccomend the adjustable type featured in his YouTube video

I have the expansion type, but I have only shot privi loaded to spec. It does make for a soft shooting gun though. I'm a bit afraid to screw with hot moosefucker loads.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Behind every great engineer is someone just hoping the "genius" doesn't bankrupt everyone.



If you already have one of the expansion chamber ones, whatever, keep on using it. It's not terrible although I wouldn't trust it with anything beyond M2 loadings myself.

If you're getting one new, get one of the adjustable ones. The Schuster plug is the usual recommendation.

Adjustable plugs are pretty easy to get dialed in. Even if you radically change loads it's not that huge a deal, I dialed up a new 8mm load a month or so ago and brought 20 rounds to the range to get my G43 squared away with it. I want to say I had the gas system set up right after like 4 or 5 rounds and just used the rest for aimless paper punching.

People seem to be intimidated by them, but they're dead simple. Dial it open as wide as it will go, expect failures to eject properly, and just screw it in a bit at a time until you're getting reliable but soft extraction.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008


I'll be picking up that plug because it's faster for me to switch it out and get more 30-06 then it is for me to clean up my garage, make a new workbench, buy a reloading setup, learn to reload, and actually find a peaceful time to do so.

PeterCat
Apr 8, 2020

Believe women.


I think I'll stick with milspec loads and make sure not to loan out my rifle. I did that once to a friend for deer hunting and he used some commercial loads in it. No damage as far as I know, but not going to do that again.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Behind every great engineer is someone just hoping the "genius" doesn't bankrupt everyone.



PeterCat posted:

I think I'll stick with milspec loads and make sure not to loan out my rifle. I did that once to a friend for deer hunting and he used some commercial loads in it. No damage as far as I know, but not going to do that again.

Gonna be honest, I wouldn't shoot anything but actual military M2 ball without the plug. THey're $50 plugs, and the rifles are significantly more than $50.

Op rods also aren't super easy to replace any more. The schuster plugs in particular are easy to adjust because the adjustment screw is on the outside and not covered up by wood due to how the Garand goes together. Just make sure it's unloaded when you adjust.

I just don't really trust commercial "milspec M2" loads to actually be that.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008


I think the biggest tell with my privi was that my cmp gun was spot on hitting steel @200 yards first shot

I think significantly hotter ammo would change that ballistic arc? Or am I way off? I have had differences between 55g and 62g 5.56, and even hotter 55g vs others as the basis of my comparison

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Behind every great engineer is someone just hoping the "genius" doesn't bankrupt everyone.



Roundboy posted:

I think the biggest tell with my privi was that my cmp gun was spot on hitting steel @200 yards first shot

I think significantly hotter ammo would change that ballistic arc? Or am I way off? I have had differences between 55g and 62g 5.56, and even hotter 55g vs others as the basis of my comparison

Honestly that just says that you got lucky with your sights being dialed in.

Also it depends on how big the steel was. IIRC M2 ball has something like 4 inches of drop at 200 yards. For a 200 yard target people are shooting with irons I'm guessing at least a 12 inch steel.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008


Fairly certain my m1 was made, test fired and sat in a rack since the early 50s. Just handling marks and bore was perfect.

Steel was a standard? Idpa size steel torso, so that makes sense

PeterCat
Apr 8, 2020

Believe women.


Cyrano4747 posted:

Gonna be honest, I wouldn't shoot anything but actual military M2 ball without the plug. THey're $50 plugs, and the rifles are significantly more than $50.

Op rods also aren't super easy to replace any more. The schuster plugs in particular are easy to adjust because the adjustment screw is on the outside and not covered up by wood due to how the Garand goes together. Just make sure it's unloaded when you adjust.

I just don't really trust commercial "milspec M2" loads to actually be that.

I should just bite the bullet and get one then stick to a particular ammo vendor.

Fearless
Sep 3, 2003

DRINK MORE MOXIE




Thermos posted:



That's uh, certainly a use for a Ross front sight base. :barf:

Jesus wept.

Somebody Awful
Nov 27, 2011

BORN TO DIE
HAIG IS A FUCK
Kill Em All 1917
I am trench man
410,757,864,530 SHELLS FIRED




Cyrano4747 posted:

Also, are you sure on 93 action needing the lighter loads?

It's an abundance of caution. These rifles were already 40+ year old survivors of multiple wars when they got rebuilt, and they remained in use for decades after conversion. The 93s in particular also often have very large cutouts in the receiver ring directly behind the upper locking lug.

Thermos posted:

That's uh, certainly a use for a Ross front sight base. :barf:

Yond Cassius
May 22, 2010

horny is prohibited

Cyrano4747 posted:

If you already have one of the expansion chamber ones, whatever, keep on using it. It's not terrible although I wouldn't trust it with anything beyond M2 loadings myself.

That's probably overconservative, but yes, in general, the overbored plugs aren't a "shoot anything" solution; they're there to widen up the acceptable operating margins a bit and buy you some safety margin. They're popular with people shooting M72 Match in competition, for example; that's not a dangerously overpowered loading (same nominal powder charge as M2, 172-ish grain bullet) but it will beat up a stock Garand a bit over time. The overbored plug brings the recoil impulse back down into M2 ranges.

Mambo No. 5
Feb 24, 2009

Admiral Parry "Terror" Sornis,
Dead Birds Society



I run an adjustable plug in both of my M1s because "M1 Garand" ammo commercial loads might be in safe range and they might not. With the plug I have less to worry about in that respect. I would absolutely recommend that every M1 owner pick one up.

moths
Aug 25, 2004



Parts Kit posted:

Might be paint. A lazy way of making a loaded chamber indicator is to paint the extractor red on top so that when there is a round in there you can see the red. Looks sloppy though so might have just been slapped on for import points?

That sounds like it could be it! It looks a little more orange in person which is why I initially suspected weird corrosion.

It's ever-so-slightly more visible with a chambered round, but the effect is so weak as to be negligible. What a strange decision.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Behind every great engineer is someone just hoping the "genius" doesn't bankrupt everyone.



Itís an import points game. Itís not about it being a smart or clever thing itís about being able to check off the ďhas LCIĒ box on a form.

Fearless
Sep 3, 2003

DRINK MORE MOXIE




Shamelessly reposting some pictures. My darling wife got me a Ross Mk III sporter for my birthday and it arrived today after a couple of weeks in the tender, nurturing care of Canada Post. The box arrived horribly bent at one end, but happily the vendor packed the box with foam and a fascinating selection of newspapers from rural Manitoba-- value added, I say-- and for once a free press protected Canadian firearms rights.

Anyways, here's the rifle in question:





The stock is pretty nice, though there seem to be some handling marks, discolouration and staining due to age. The fit and finish is very good and the rifle shoulders quite comfortably; the butt could be a little bit longer to better fit me though it is very close.



This, some proofing marks and a smattering of inspection marks on different parts are the only markings visible-- no E/R/M10 designations, no made in Canada stamps that I can see.





Both sides of the rear of the receiver. This rifle is lacking a charger bridge, by the looks of things this was filed off when the rifle was turned into a sporter.



The front sight features a very fine blade that is clearly not a standard Ross sight. Also, the barrel strikes me as very heavy, but perhaps I am too used to the SMLE (the barrel of which is notoriously light).

My suspicion here is that the absence of markings suggests that this is a late rifle cobbled together from leftover parts. It is definitely a .303 British rifle though I have not found markings indicated that on it. I am welcome to correction as I am not an expert on Ross rifles. I do not intend to do a restoration-- the barrel has been clearly bobbed and tankers just don't sit right, particularly as this has no indications of being a military rifle on it. What I do intend to do is replace the rear sight and do something to make the front sight easier to pick up. Earlier tonight I tried installing my Ross Mk II rear sight ladder on that, and while it will fit it will not fold down due to interference between the sight and the receiver. Oh, and I intend to cold-fill the dovetail left by that horrible notch sight currently in place. The rifling is strong with very little erosion (in fact, it seems to have been barely shot at all which is consistent with it being a hunting rifle for most of its existence).

Overall, I am equal parts dismayed by the arcane nature of the Ross's bolt, but also very much in love with how unbelievably smooth it is. I absolutely would not want to take this rifle into the mud... there are so many different locations on the bolt for muck to completely brick the entire mechanism but they would clearly make splendid hunting rifles and range queens.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Behind every great engineer is someone just hoping the "genius" doesn't bankrupt everyone.



Fearless posted:

and for once a free press protected Canadian firearms rights.


:lol: :drat:

Nice looking rifle too.

Thermos
Mar 29, 2019



Yay! Glad it finally showed up. Looking good!

Everything about it to me says sporterized military gun, except the lack of any other markings on the top of the receiver. It almost looks to me like it could have been scrubbed for some weird reason? The barrel should have .303 nitro stamped somewhere. I'm willing to bet it might be under the rear sight or possibly under the wood.

Here are some pics of my factory sporter and military gun for comparison. Sorry for the poo poo quality, the lighting is awful downstairs.

Sporter

Military


Sporter


Military

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Behind every great engineer is someone just hoping the "genius" doesn't bankrupt everyone.



Thermos posted:

Yay! Glad it finally showed up. Looking good!

Everything about it to me says sporterized military gun, except the lack of any other markings on the top of the receiver. It almost looks to me like it could have been scrubbed for some weird reason?

You see a lot of older sporters with purposefully scrubbed military markings. I think people back then just thought the military poo poo made them look ugly.

Fearless
Sep 3, 2003

DRINK MORE MOXIE




Cyrano4747 posted:

You see a lot of older sporters with purposefully scrubbed military markings. I think people back then just thought the military poo poo made them look ugly.

I'd say that is what happened here. Rather than being a smooth arc, the top of the receiver shows definitely flat spots like something was milled off. Regardless, whomever did the work on this thing was good at their job; this is not even close to the same butchery that was done to my SMLE sporter that I re-stocked.

That said, I am pretty excited about this rifle for entirely different reasons the trigger is really pleasant (about 3.5lbs with a very clean break) and so I think there is a really, really solid foundation to build a very nice target rifle here.

Fearless fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Aug 6, 2020

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Behind every great engineer is someone just hoping the "genius" doesn't bankrupt everyone.



Fearless posted:

I'd say that is what happened here. Rather than being a smooth arc, the top of the receiver shows definitely flat spots like something was milled off. Regardless, whomever did the work on this thing was good at their job; this is not even close to the same butchery that was done to my SMLE sporter that I re-stocked.

That said, I am pretty excited about this rifle for entirely different reasons the trigger is really pleasant (about 3.5lbs with a very clean break) and so I think there is a really, really solid foundation to build a very nice target rifle here.

I'm not saying you should, I'm not saying you shouldn't, but my fantasy with something like that that is already sportered but shoots well is to build it into an old school target rifle. Antique diopter sites, the works.

It's the sort of thing you can go down a rabbit hole looking at ebay listings with.

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Fearless
Sep 3, 2003

DRINK MORE MOXIE




Cyrano4747 posted:

I'm not saying you should, I'm not saying you shouldn't, but my fantasy with something like that that is already sportered but shoots well is to build it into an old school target rifle. Antique diopter sites, the works.

It's the sort of thing you can go down a rabbit hole looking at ebay listings with.

That's precisely the direction where I am heading with this. The bastard thing is that the front sight post has something like a 7/16" dovetail which is definitely archaic-- I think most modern globe sights are produced with 3/8" dovetails now. It's going to be a bit of a complicated job, but I think it could really turn out nicely.

The wood under the stock seems to be very blond, certainly far lighter than the dark reddish brown that it outwardly appears to be. I kinda want to see if I can peel that back that finish and see what is underneath.

Fearless fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Aug 7, 2020

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