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bawfuls
Oct 28, 2009
.

Plague Champion


There was no surfing thread so here is one now. I'm no authority & I wouldn't know where to start on any kind of comprehensive OP, so I'll just share what I've been up to lately.

I have gotten back into surfing recently after close to 10 years away from it, and man what a fool I was for ever leaving it by the wayside! I picked up a classic Costco Wavestorm (the ur-starter board) after moving closer to the coast last summer but started going more consistently this year. After a beautiful hot Sunday cruising long lazy shoulders in Oceanside on the foam board a couple months back, I was hooked again. So I got on Craigslist and scored a great deal on a 6'2" quad fin fish and it's a game changer. I'd never surfed a fish before and the combo of wave catchability, easy speed generation, and maneuverability is just so much fun, particularly in the smaller mushier surf we get during SoCal summers.



This past weekend an acquaintance talked me into going up to Trestles with him, and just wow! I can't believe I never made it up there before. Incredibly consistent and clean, even on the lesser peaks we surfed to avoid the main crowds. I was a little intimidated heading there at first, what with Trestles being perhaps the most famous/popular break on the west coast, but it was super chill and we had a great time surfing till our arms were ready to fall off.

I am trying to get out on the water at least twice a week right now in hopes of regaining some skills and conditioning before winter. Right now I'd have no shot trying to ride my old 6'6" epoxy thruster I used to ride in college (a dozen years and 25 lbs ago...)

Post about surfing!

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Dik Hz
Feb 22, 2004

Fun with Science

I'm a complete noob who's only ever surfed once and didn't even get up. What's the best type of board to learn on? For reference, my beach is Kure Beach, NC. So we're not talking Pacific waves, but we do get the best the Atlantic can offer.

A baby ate my dingo
May 12, 2001


Iíve been (very casually) surfing for about 20-ish years in Western Australia. Iím recently getting back into it after 8 months of very little surfing due to injury and having a newborn to look after.

The waves here range from mostly awful and mushy, to good sometimes, to world class a few hours south in Margaret River. Iíve currently got 3 boards, a DIY hollow wooden board I made from a kit. My favourite board, a 6ft Simmons/fish type quad that goes amazing in almost everything and a Haydenshapes Shred-sled, which is from my younger and fitter days.




Dik Hz posted:

I'm a complete noob who's only ever surfed once and didn't even get up. What's the best type of board to learn on? For reference, my beach is Kure Beach, NC. So we're not talking Pacific waves, but we do get the best the Atlantic can offer.

Iíve surfed northern OBX before (only in the summer) and from memory most days were fairly gentle, so you might want to look at something like a 8-9ft fun board type of thing. Foamies these days are actually pretty good too, and Iíd recommend them for a learner because you wonít be too worried about damaging your board.

bawfuls
Oct 28, 2009
.

Plague Champion


Dik Hz posted:

I'm a complete noob who's only ever surfed once and didn't even get up. What's the best type of board to learn on? For reference, my beach is Kure Beach, NC. So we're not talking Pacific waves, but we do get the best the Atlantic can offer.
The easiest answer to this is a soft top around 8í or so. The staple here is the Wavestorm, which can be found at Costco (and now Amazon too i guess) for under $200. A lot of companies make soft tops now and you can get higher quality ones, but for a first board itís hard to beat the cost/benefit of the Wavestorm.

It will float and paddle easy, be nice and stable as you learn to stand up, and since itís soft itís difficult for you to damage the board in transport or the board to damage you (or others) in action.

Bi-la kaifa
Feb 4, 2011

Space maggots.



I've surfed in the PNW before. I thought it was a lot of fun and a great way to spend a couple days on the beach. It really reminded me of tobogganing where most of the work goes into getting where you need to be in order to actually do the thing, and once you're there it's only a brief moment of joy before you either crash and burn or come to a stop. It's just fun enough to keep doing it over and over again until you've become so exhausted that you can no longer keep your internal body temperature up.

Bigger waves in more popular locations probably offer a completely different experience.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006



Grimey Drawer

It's fun to watch people surf, from the safety of shore or computer. People surf the bore tide up here. They mostly use stand up paddle boards, I dunno if people use regular surf boards to do it. This guy used a packraft, with amusing results
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tM8mYY5tf6g

bawfuls
Oct 28, 2009
.

Plague Champion


more goofy surf-like things, including an RC surfer

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KI7rXMs0ycA

Baronash
Feb 29, 2012

So what do you want to be called?

I signed up for a surfing lesson next week and I'm super stoked. Somehow I only learned a few days ago that people actually surf on Lake Michigan, despite living minutes away for large chunks of my life.
Out of curiosity, do wetsuits actually keep you warm, or is it mostly just going to slow down hypothermia a bit?

bawfuls
Oct 28, 2009
.

Plague Champion


Wetsuits absolutely keep you warm and are a necessity at certain temperatures. When it gets cold enough you need to dry suit but at that point youíre probably not surfing.

I have a 0.5mm top (like a long sleeve shirt) for summer mornings and late spring/early fall, and a 3/2 full suit for the winter. When itís real cold (for SoCal) I bust out the booties cause itís hard to surf when your feet are numb.

Baronash
Feb 29, 2012

So what do you want to be called?

Yeah, they mentioned that it'd be the full get-up (suit, booties, gloves) because the lake is in the mid 50s right now.

Baronash
Feb 29, 2012

So what do you want to be called?

Double posting to say that I got out surfing today. It was a beautiful day for early October, especially with the garbage weather we have had the last few weeks. I went with a private lesson through a local store, which turned out to be a mistake because the dude was useless. Like, utterly uninterested in teaching or providing feedback. The waves were great though. I never managed to pop up successfully, but I felt like hot poo poo the first time I managed to catch an unbroken wave.

I had to cut the lesson short because of a bad bout of seasickness. That doesn't seem to be a common thing, so I was wondering if there were recommendations for avoiding it.

e: Also I accidentally ended up in somebody's path and they had to bail off the wave, so I'm pretty sure I hit the free space in kook bingo.

Baronash fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Oct 7, 2020

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Bulky Bartokomous
Nov 3, 2006

In Mypos, only the strong survive.

Baronash posted:

Double posting to say that I got out surfing today. It was a beautiful day for early October, especially with the garbage weather we have had the last few weeks. I went with a private lesson through a local store, which turned out to be a mistake because the dude was useless. Like, utterly uninterested in teaching or providing feedback. The waves were great though. I never managed to pop up successfully, but I felt like hot poo poo the first time I managed to catch an unbroken wave.

I had to cut the lesson short because of a bad bout of seasickness. That doesn't seem to be a common thing, so I was wondering if there were recommendations for avoiding it.

e: Also I accidentally ended up in somebody's path and they had to bail off the wave, so I'm pretty sure I hit the free space in kook bingo.

Congrats on popping up. I should explore Lake Ontario, I know people surf it but I'm not sure where on the NY side. The problem is I don't have anyone to go with and the idea of surfing by myself in a lake I'm not very familiar with sounds like a fairly dumb idea. I'm a very strong swimmer but even so.

Lessons can definitely be hit or miss. My first one was worthless for the same reason as yours, instructor just didn't give a poo poo, he was very attentive with the female students though. Second time I did a private lesson from a different beach boy place and this dude was amazing. I've only been surfing a few times which sucks, but at least on the flipside it was in Waikiki so I'm not complaining. I started on a 10 foot foamie (poo poo it may have been 12) but my last session I got down to a 9 foot board and was able to get up on it.

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