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Ghost Leviathan posted:I need a bigger PC case that can actually fit all my poo poo in it. I know next to nothing about hardware. What's the standard sizes for PC cases and what should I be looking for if I'm running out of room in my current one? If you're trying to add drives (the only thing I can imagine adding over time that might give you this problem) and don't have bays available anymore just use two sided tape and stick them wherever you want. If there's some confusion here and your new GPU doesn't fit, just get a newish 'mid' tower case, it'll list the length of GPU it fits on the website and you can measure. If you're running out of spots to plug drives in, your motherboard is actually limiting you and not the case.
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| # ? Jan 20, 2026 15:22 |
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Can anyone recommend a "how to build your pc" video? I've got all my components out and suddenly have the yips.
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tarbrush posted:Can anyone recommend a "how to build your pc" video? I've got all my components out and suddenly have the yips. when i was building i liked this one, because anthony was using ultracheap components like i was https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkiIW0Twj3U there's also a decent first person build guide on the channel if you find that easier e: skip to like a minute fifty to avoid the dumb youtuber stuff
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tarbrush posted:Can anyone recommend a "how to build your pc" video? I've got all my components out and suddenly have the yips. If you search for your specific case there's every chance there's already a video of someone building in it on YouTube.
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Thanks. gently caress the scythe fuma 2 forever that was the most heart rending install of any component ever. Literally having to put my bodyweight through the motherboard to get the tension screw compressed enough to go into the bracket hole. Took fifteen minutes and I'm sweating buckets. Christ knows whether there's any thermal compound left on the cpu. Haha, no, it's all on me, I somehow installed one of the brackets upside down. Hopefully haven't hosed everything tarbosaurus fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Aug 5, 2021 |
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tarbrush posted:Thanks. I was going to say that's one of the easiest after market coolers to install ever. Love the huge screwdriver they give you.
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Thom P. Tiers posted:I was going to say that's one of the easiest after market coolers to install ever. Love the huge screwdriver they give you. Yes. The screwdriver is amazing
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Except it eats your hand.
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Yeah, it's also a general rule with PC building that if something seems to require significant force you should stop and look at it. I can't think of a single component that actually requires more than a semi-forceful push, like making sure a RAM stick is fully seated. Hopefully you haven't hosed anything and flipping the bracket around and reapplying thermal paste will solve it, but a good rule of thumb for the future anyway.
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Yeah. I didn't actually reverse the bracket, I got it in the hard way. Very relieved I went for a rugged motherboard
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Ghost Leviathan posted:I need a bigger PC case that can actually fit all my poo poo in it. I know next to nothing about hardware. What's the standard sizes for PC cases and what should I be looking for if I'm running out of room in my current one? Someone assumed 2.5” drives when mentioning taping drives. If your need is 3.5” drives I highly recommend fractals newer cases. If your need is something else it’s likely there’s a case made for it. tarbrush posted:Thanks. I know that you’re joking, but it’s super important to have reasonable thermal compound coverage. You should check your temps before you do any serious lifting with it.
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I'm absolutely not joking, I didn't diagnose the problem till way too late, but I can assure you I will be treating it with kid gloves. If I do need to remount the cooler, I just need thermal paste and cleaning grade alcohol yes?
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If I'm looking to game at 1080p 165Hz will I be ok with the RTX 3060? I'm looking to get a prebuilt as that's probably the only way I'll get my hands on a GPU anytime soon and one of the ones I'm looking at is offering me an upgrade to an RTX 3070 for an extra £200 or so. It won't break my budget or anything but from my brief research it looks like that's not really worth it but also probably overkill for my current needs. The CPU will be the 5600X if it matters. Additional question: if I later buy a new 1440p monitor would that be the point at which the 3070 starts to make more sense to get?
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tarbrush posted:I'm absolutely not joking, I didn't diagnose the problem till way too late, but I can assure you I will be treating it with kid gloves. There's no guarantee you need to repaste it, I know I've had coolers slip around multiple times and still have fine temps, but yes, rubbing alcohol and new thermal paste.
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Mr Snips posted:If I'm looking to game at 1080p 165Hz will I be ok with the RTX 3060? You should get the 3070 IMO. It will matter at 1440p, and general advice is get as much GPU as you can afford.
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Mr Snips posted:Additional question: if I later buy a new 1440p monitor would that be the point at which the 3070 starts to make more sense to get? For the time being the 3060 will do high refresh 1080p gaming yes but £200 extra is a pretty fair approximation of the value difference between the 3060 and the 3070 and if you want to upgrade to a 1440p monitor later (which you should) the 3070 is absolutely much better suited for that.
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tarbrush posted:I'm absolutely not joking, I didn't diagnose the problem till way too late, but I can assure you I will be treating it with kid gloves. I don't fully understand from your posts whether you have taken the cooler off and remounted it correctly or if you didn't mount it incorrectly in the first place but given what you described I absolutely would be taking it off and making sure to do it properly this time. The Fuma 2 comes with enough extra thermal paste for 2 or 3 applications so yeah all you need is some isopropyl alcohol. As others have said it was a very easy cooler to install so what you described absolutely sounds wrong so even if it feels secure you could be putting undue strain on your components. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Aug 5, 2021 |
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Mr Snips posted:If I'm looking to game at 1080p 165Hz will I be ok with the RTX 3060? The CPU actually does kind of matter for the 1080p, and a 3060/5600x should crush 1080p. A 3070 is going to help you get into the 1440p category at great rates. (I have a 3700x/3070 for the record, it's great on 1440p)
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What would be a good price to sell my used GTX1650 OC? eBay is all over the place. I bought it new but I lost the box, I don’t wanna scalp anyone but I don’t wanna throw It away either, maybe 150 - 200 shipped?
mulligan fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Aug 5, 2021 |
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Butterfly Valley posted:I don't fully understand from your posts whether you have taken the cooler off and remounted it correctly or if you didn't mount it incorrectly in the first place but given what you described I absolutely would be taking it off and making sure to do it properly this time. The Fuma 2 comes with enough extra thermal paste for 2 or 3 applications so yeah all you need is some isopropyl alcohol. As others have said it was a very easy cooler to install so what you described absolutely sounds wrong so even if it feels secure you could be putting undue strain on your components. I'm sure you're right, but it's just booted and running at normal temperatures now. Now I need to work out why it won't recognise the windows image on my ssd Edit: haha, it's alive! Not sure why turning off uefi boot helps, but whatever. Now to find out whether it was actually my graphics card causing the issue all along tarbosaurus fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Aug 5, 2021 |
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Mu Zeta posted:What are you trying to add that won't fit? Hard drives? I currently have a Thermaltake case that I had to remove the extra hard drive slots to fit a video card in, and there's a lot of space being taken up by a wi-fi card. I am even more hardware illiterate than I am software illiterate, but suffice to say I'm pretty sure I'm running out of room to plug stuff in even when I have sufficient plugs, and think just having more room for stuff would probably make things a lot easier.
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mulligan posted:What would be a good price to sell my used GTX1650 OC? eBay is all over the place. I bought it new but I lost the box, I don’t wanna scalp anyone but I don’t wanna throw It away either, maybe 150 - 200 shipped? 1050 TIs are still pushing close to $200, you could easily sell it for $200
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mulligan posted:What would be a good price to sell my used GTX1650 OC? eBay is all over the place. I bought it new but I lost the box, I don’t wanna scalp anyone but I don’t wanna throw It away either, maybe 150 - 200 shipped? You could easily sell it for 225-250 shipped imo.
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Ghost Leviathan posted:I currently have a Thermaltake case that I had to remove the extra hard drive slots to fit a video card in, and there's a lot of space being taken up by a wi-fi card. I am even more hardware illiterate than I am software illiterate, but suffice to say I'm pretty sure I'm running out of room to plug stuff in even when I have sufficient plugs, and think just having more room for stuff would probably make things a lot easier. Don’t upgrade your case to future proof. Upgrade your case when you need the space. mulligan posted:What would be a good price to sell my used GTX1650 OC? eBay is all over the place. I bought it new but I lost the box, I don’t wanna scalp anyone but I don’t wanna throw It away either, maybe 150 - 200 shipped? If you don’t wanna scalp sell it at MSRP + shipping. Otherwise average the last 10 sold cards on eBay.
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Don’t upgrade your case to future proof. Thanks ! I kinda just want exchange it for a nice meal or whatever. I don’t think I’ll have time to play games, never mind pc games so maybe I can give it away to a friend I know that’s going through some hard times, maybe it’ll cheer him up as he’s using a GT710 because of the current market.
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mulligan posted:Thanks ! https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1650-vs-Nvidia-GeForce-GT-710/4039vsm77649 Your friend would be very happy, haha.
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tarbrush posted:I'm sure you're right, but it's just booted and running at normal temperatures now. So, system is idling at around 50 Celsius, and 60 when running some not that modern games (is a 5600x with a Fuma 2). Don't think that's a problem, but wondering if that's high enough to suggest I do need to remount the cooler?
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I idle ~10 degrees less then that with the same proc and cooler
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tarbrush posted:So, system is idling at around 50 Celsius, and 60 when running some not that modern games (is a 5600x with a Fuma 2). Don't think that's a problem, but wondering if that's high enough to suggest I do need to remount the cooler? My Fuma 2 cooled 5600x idles at 35C in an ITX case. You absolutely should have been remounting the cooler regardless if you think you hosed up the installation process, like I said you don't want to be putting unnecessary strain and stress on the components.
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You can download Prime95 and stress test it (the top option when launching it is the most heat-intensive one). If the temps under load are still in the 60s or so (all-core load with the stock power limit), then your high idle temps may just be a result of your fan curve. If it's going much higher (80s or 90s), then you may need to remount it, though your case's airflow situation may also be at fault there.
Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Aug 5, 2021 |
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So finally knuckling down to put a new PC together, surely GPUs aren't as crazy as everyone has been saying for months and months, I've got a local MicroCenter I'm invincible! *checks MicroCenter*... *checks NewEgg*...... *checks Amazon*......... *checks EBay*............ jesus christ ![]() OK new plan, can I put together something that would normally be good with a 3060 or 3080 but slot in a much cheaper card with the hope of upgrading when things are no longer actually insane? So something that would start out GPU bottlenecked, but still able to run modern-ish games at 1080/60 at mid-high settings, and then with a beefier GPU still be good to go for another few years after. I'm in the US, MicroCenter accessible, building for gaming but I'm OK keeping with 1080/60fps for another generation. Roughly I'm imaging 16gb RAM, a smaller M.2 for the OS and maybe some 512s or a 1TB SSD for games and files. I've decided to make the leap to Linux as really the only thing tying me to Windows anymore was my Steam library, and with Proton and the announcement of their new *nix-based handheld thing compatibility should be 'good enough' at this point. Having never built a game rig for Linux (PopOS in particular, as it claims to be gaming-focused), I wanted to ask if there were any benefits of support or compatibility between Intel/AMD CPUs and Nvidia/AMD GPUs specific to Ubuntu-based Linux.
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Butterfly Valley posted:My Fuma 2 cooled 5600x idles at 35C in an ITX case. You absolutely should have been remounting the cooler regardless if you think you hosed up the installation process, like I said you don't want to be putting unnecessary strain and stress on the components. We don’t know the rest of his cooling, it could be dogshit. That being said, I agree a remount should be done regardless. Fuma 2 dude you should post a inside pic so we can see what cooling looks like in general. And you should remount it. Takes No Damage posted:So finally knuckling down to put a new PC together, surely GPUs aren't as crazy as everyone has been saying for months and months, I've got a local MicroCenter I'm invincible! *checks MicroCenter*... *checks NewEgg*...... *checks Amazon*......... *checks EBay*............ jesus christ If your building a primary gaming rig, I do feel as though you are kind of making your life difficult. Anything gaming built with Linux compatibility is pure afterthought and it just doesn’t make sense. I love MacOS but would never run a gaming rig on it. Running through a compatibility layer a la Proton will also reduce performance, no matter what Valve says. Outside of this, I don’t have any experience with PopOS or Linux part compatibility. Less powerful GPUs are also a clusterfuck. What card do you have now, and how close is the microcenter? Best case is to use your current card and show up at microcenter every day before open, especially if you’re not in a metro. There’s a real decent chance you can get something. No reason to have separate boot drive and games drive. Also, NVME drive costs are not too different from 2.5”SSD. Generally, ideal is 1TB NVME (SN550 usually) + additional 2.5”/3.5” if you need it.
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I have a question that might be real dumb: I finally managed to get a GPU (gigabyte 3070 ti) but when I go to plug in the power cables one of them just won't fit into either of the 8 pin holes I'm using the same 6+2 plug that was attached to my old card (and I've tried another pcie cable and it does the same thing) but it just stops halfway in. For both cables one of the 6+2 connectors will work in both holes but the other (which plugs in fine to my old card) just won't go in! I'm not talking about the plastic bits btw those line up fine I just wanted to check to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious but I keep squinting at these identical plugs and I can't see anything that'd make a difference
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Takes No Damage posted:So finally knuckling down to put a new PC together, surely GPUs aren't as crazy as everyone has been saying for months and months, I've got a local MicroCenter I'm invincible! *checks MicroCenter*... *checks NewEgg*...... *checks Amazon*......... *checks EBay*............ jesus christ You can find 1060 6GB cards on ebay for around $250 with a handful being sold for less. You're not going to get amazing gaming experiences, but you can get mostly smooth 1080p gameplay when turning down the settings. Though my definition of smooth with that thing was more along the lines of 45fps with g-sync (you can run many games on high settings if that's the bar). The most "bang for your buck," if you can call it that, in the budget-temp-card category is maybe the 1070. I'm seeing several of them with buy it nows at $350 on ebay. The 1660 Super would be the normal thing to recommend, but it costs more than the 1070 currently despite having similar performance. Similar story with the 1650 and the 1060. If it were me, I'd probably just go with the cheaper 1060 to save a buck and pray that maybe I can upgrade it in 6 months or whatever. Shopping locally seems like a bad idea. You can try showing up shortly after opening to see what they have in stock, but for low-budget stuff, I have a feeling that their prices on new cards will be worse than the used stuff you can find on ebay, even with the current market madness. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Aug 6, 2021 |
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barge posted:I have a question that might be real dumb: I finally managed to get a GPU (gigabyte 3070 ti) but when I go to plug in the power cables one of them just won't fit into either of the 8 pin holes Some of those plugs have little unique shapes to make sure the right thing is plugged into the right hole - maybe check that they are lining up appropriately. They aren't all rectangular.
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VelociBacon posted:Some of those plugs have little unique shapes to make sure the right thing is plugged into the right hole - maybe check that they are lining up appropriately. They aren't all rectangular. Ah I figured it out, apparently the pins were just weirdly bent
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Less powerful GPUs are also a clusterfuck. What card do you have now, and how close is the microcenter? Best case is to use your current card and show up at microcenter every day before open, especially if you’re not in a metro. There’s a real decent chance you can get something. Currently rocking a GeForce 770 This is a very preliminary build I've put together so far: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($289.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: *ASRock B550M Phantom Gaming 4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Newegg) Memory: *G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($141.97 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Adorama) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB SC GAMING Video Card Case: Phanteks Eclipse P300A Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: *Antec NeoECO Gold ZEN 600 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($55.20 @ Amazon) Total: $872.12 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-08-06 03:37 EDT-0400 The 1060 is just a placeholder for now, and I'm not married to having an SSD just for files. Since the prices are comparable would it make sense to just get two M.2's, or should I just shut up and get the 1TB M.2 and slap another one in there if/when I need to? I do need some help with the mobo, I've got a decent stereo system and stream a lot of music so I do want to keep Toslink out and have a good sound codec. Size isn't a concern for me so if going up to full ATX gives me more options I'm all for it. And at some point I'll need to research a decent monitor, currently using a pair of old Samsung flatscreens. Ideally something 1440/144 capable, and just run it at 1080 until the GPU gets upgraded. Plan is to keep one Samsung for reading and browsing and have a newer display for games/media. Is there any concern with having 2 displays of wildly different sizes/refresh rates? I've had this matched pair for so long I don't remember ever having to deal with it.
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Takes No Damage posted:Currently rocking a GeForce 770 You're not going to get a new 1060, they don't make them anymore. If you're going to microcenter it's in the hope of getting one of the new generation of GPUs at non-ridiculous scalped prices. Takes No Damage posted:The 1060 is just a placeholder for now, and I'm not married to having an SSD just for files. Since the prices are comparable would it make sense to just get two M.2's, or should I just shut up and get the 1TB M.2 and slap another one in there if/when I need to? You're right in that there's no point in having a separate SSD and M.2 NVMe. You can get a 2TB SN550 for much less than the combined price of the two drives you have there. Takes No Damage posted:And at some point I'll need to research a decent monitor, currently using a pair of old Samsung flatscreens. Ideally something 1440/144 capable, and just run it at 1080 until the GPU gets upgraded. Plan is to keep one Samsung for reading and browsing and have a newer display for games/media. Is there any concern with having 2 displays of wildly different sizes/refresh rates? I've had this matched pair for so long I don't remember ever having to deal with it. While you should be thinking about upgrading monitors, you don't want to run a 1440p monitor at 1080p it'll look ugly as poo poo. There's no problem running mismatched monitors on the GPU side. Your plan to get a placeholder card at a reasonable enough price to make that worth it isn't going to happen. Face the pain and join the struggle to get a new GPU. Good news is prices and availability are going in the right direction and plenty of people itt have reported they've had luck after a few visits to MicroCenter.
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Takes No Damage posted:Currently rocking a GeForce 770 I don't believe there are any 1060s being produced anymore. There are still new 1660s and 1650s being produced, however. Maybe you'll find one of those on store shelves, though I expect micro center to put the same ridiculous markups on those that they put on everything. As for SSD selection, you shouldn't get too caught up on the raw speed figures. For just about every regular PC user, the difference between a state of the art NVMe drive and an old sata SSD is minimal at best. Going with an NVMe as your boot drive is fine, but for a secondary drive I would go with a cheap-but-reliable SATA drive like the Crucial MX500 or the Samsung 870 QVO (the MX500 is a bit faster in most benchmarks but it barely matters, so go with whatever's cheaper at the time). For game loading and that kind of thing, the difference between even a "slow" SSD and an NVMe will range from imperceptible to a few seconds at most. And if it's just for media/file archival, then definitely get an HDD for your secondary drive instead. Those are still much cheaper, and the speed difference really doesn't make much of a difference at all for mass storage purposes. And for monitors, I'd recommend maybe replacing one at a time. The way LCDs upscale images can be kinda ugly at times, so there may still be some value in keeping a 1080p monitor for gaming at that resolution. edit: I should have refreshed before clicking submit, clearly. I second Butterfly Valley's points mostly, though I'll point out that the 1TB MX500 is currently on sale for $85 on Newegg for the next 21 hours. The prices for those can be cheaper than even SN550s when they go on sale. It's at least another option to consider. Though honestly going M.2 only kinda owns. No more having to mount drives and manage cables. edit 2: also, you will want a couple extra case fans in that case. Since this never gets talked about here, I'll mention arctic for the "budget" option (bundles available) and noctua for the most efficient fans. There are various name brands in-between these price points, but noctua's at the top of the class in terms of raw performance at any given noise level, and nobody beats arctic on value. (note, I have not seen arctic's airflow fans in action, but their pressure-optimized fans are fantastic for the price so I assume the airflow ones are good too) Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 10:29 on Aug 6, 2021 |
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| # ? Jan 20, 2026 15:22 |
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Scythe posted:Yeah, it's also a general rule with PC building that if something seems to require significant force you should stop and look at it. I can't think of a single component that actually requires more than a semi-forceful push, like making sure a RAM stick is fully seated. This is very good advice. If something isn't going in, or isn't coming out, take a step back and take a look at it. My RAM wasn't seated well at first but a second click did it no problem (my mothboard diagnosed it itself) My one exception was taking out my GPU (cause I forgot to plug in the SATA cable), reaching to the little locking clip was difficult and it seemed to need some special push. Did it with a chopstick eventually
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