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It’s time to replace my Haswell i5 at long last also the motherboard is throwing a 00 (psu/cpu/mb) error and I can’t be hosed. After 8 years of loyal service, it’s time. Can I get a quick sanity check on the following? Purpose is a gaming PC for my partner. Keeping my hyper 212 evo cooler, storage, displays, and my 970 strix (279 mm). I’ll try with my existing PSU, which was Gold 80+ and well reviewed before getting the one on this list however. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor ($498.50 @ Vuugo) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS (WI-FI) Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($189.95 @ iSanek) Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($110.99 @ Amazon Canada) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($122.57 @ Vuugo) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GA 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($97.98 @ Newegg Canada) Total: $1019.99 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-08-29 21:31 EDT-0400 I don’t particularly care about motherboard features other than wifi and not being bargain basement quality. Not married to the case other than wanting it to be as small as possible while still being able to support my GPU/Cooler, so to that end I’m happy to take mITX recommendations. Ideally with Minimal gamer aesthetic. The Iron Rose fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Aug 30, 2021 |
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Aug 30, 2021 01:33
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Throwing file system errors is pretty likely to be SSD/actual file system related. Yeah, it's looking more like my SSD (which was a hangover from my old PC so at least 5 years old) was dying. It's still tempting to upgrade my CPU, I think the resale for a second hand 8700k, ITX x370 Fatal1ty board and AIO is pretty good and I can get a 5900x and an x570 board for about £540.
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Aug 30, 2021 09:20
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The Iron Rose posted:It’s time to replace my Haswell i5 at long last Quick points - if your use case is purely gaming you could save a decent amount by dropping down to a 5600x, which will be easier to cool to boot. And I would really think twice about reusing an 8 year old psu. You'll have to replace it some point in the lifetime of this new computer, and you're running the risk of it frying the whole thing when it fails.
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Aug 30, 2021 10:31
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tarbrush posted:Quick points - if your use case is purely gaming you could save a decent amount by dropping down to a 5600x, which will be easier to cool to boot. thanks! Take two: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($356.75 @ shopRBC) CPU Cooler: Scythe Big Shuriken 3 50.79 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Amazon Canada) Motherboard: ASRock B550M-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($129.07 @ Vuugo) Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($110.99 @ Amazon Canada) Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($69.98 @ Amazon Canada) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GA 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($87.98 @ Newegg Canada) Total: $814.76 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-08-30 11:12 EDT-0400 Took your advice on the 5600X and decided to go for the mITX build that I actually wanted. The motherboard situation was somewhat complex with BIOS support. And it's a fair sight cheaper overall to boot! only minor concern is the GPU is brushing up riiight against the case limit of 285mm w/ the drive bays removed, but we're going all SSD here so who gives a care, i can just tape them to the case walls The Iron Rose fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Aug 30, 2021 |
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Aug 30, 2021 15:14
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The Iron Rose posted:thanks! Take two: oh, because pcpartpicker threw up a warning when you combined a 5000 series chip and a B550 motherboard? that's because B550s predate the 5000 series and in theory there could be one sitting on a shelf somewhere for years which didn't have an updated BIOS. you need a working CPU to get into the BIOS and update it, so the doomsday scenario would be someone buying a chip and board that are "incompatible", without an older Ryzen chip. there are tons of ways around this and the 5000 series is now what a year old, so it is overwhelmingly unlikely you'll get one with an out of date BIOS.
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Aug 30, 2021 15:20
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CoolCab posted:oh, because pcpartpicker threw up a warning when you combined a 5000 series chip and a B550 motherboard? that's because B550s predate the 5000 series and in theory there could be one sitting on a shelf somewhere for years which didn't have an updated BIOS. you need a working CPU to get into the BIOS and update it, so the doomsday scenario would be someone buying a chip and board that are "incompatible", without an older Ryzen chip. there are tons of ways around this and the 5000 series is now what a year old, so it is overwhelmingly unlikely you'll get one with an out of date BIOS. yeah I was originally going to go for a board $40 cheaper, but after some internet sleuthing there's a bunch of testimony indicating that I can update to a supported BIOS version on this board without needing a working CPU.
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Aug 30, 2021 15:21
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The Iron Rose posted:yeah I was originally going to go for a board $40 cheaper, but after some internet sleuthing there's a bunch of testimony indicating that I can update to a supported BIOS version on this board without needing a working CPU. oh does it have bios flashback, maybe? that's a functionality that allows you to update the bios with no CPU installed so that completely avoids the problem. my honest expectation is that it will work out of the box tho
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Aug 30, 2021 15:24
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The Iron Rose posted:thanks! Take two: I’d pick an nr200 (don’t splurge on the p version, the window isn’t useful in a sffpc IMO) over the core v1. You can buy or print an atx bracket for it, but I would just use the stock cooler from the 5600x and save the cash on the big shuriken for a nice sfx psu. I’d also upgrade the motherboard to the aorus b550i pro ax board. Edit: nr200p is only 12 bucks more on amazon.ca, so I’d just get that. It comes with extra fans that are worth the 12 bucks and you never know you might use the side panel. The nr200 has great cooling capabilities and can handle all of the huge graphics cards of this gen. Canna Happy fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Aug 30, 2021 |
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Aug 30, 2021 15:50
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The Iron Rose posted:Took your advice on the 5600X and decided to go for the mITX build that I actually wanted. The motherboard situation was somewhat complex with BIOS support. And it's a fair sight cheaper overall to boot! +1 on the nr200, it's the go-to itx case atm
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Aug 30, 2021 16:39
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Canna Happy posted:I’d pick an nr200 (don’t splurge on the p version, the window isn’t useful in a sffpc IMO) over the core v1. You can buy or print an atx bracket for it, but I would just use the stock cooler from the 5600x and save the cash on the big shuriken for a nice sfx psu. I’d also upgrade the motherboard to the aorus b550i pro ax board. NR200 doesn't appear on PCPartPicker but it's sure on Amazon so all is well there! Why go for the b550i board however? Wifi 6 I guess but that's no huge win. Plus the Asrock B500M has a m2 SATA SSD slot, which I'd like to use as I have a 1TB Sandisk X400 that I'd rather not have to buy an adapter for.
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Aug 30, 2021 18:04
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RMA'd my board, got the same model as a replacement. Thought my Windows license would get hosed up but everything worked fine after inserting my two m.2 drives and running as normal. I was under the impression it wouldn't work that way. I wonder if it had been a different model board.
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Aug 30, 2021 18:24
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codo27 posted:RMA'd my board, got the same model as a replacement. Thought my Windows license would get hosed up but everything worked fine after inserting my two m.2 drives and running as normal. I was under the impression it wouldn't work that way. I wonder if it had been a different model board. with an OEM key it shouldn't have, but from what i last heard which was a few years back it's supremely fucky. it might be that it doesn't trigger until you add/replace a little more hardware to some arbitrary "is now a new computer" value or it might up and decide even if you just reseat a component to unvalidate. you can almost always call and play dumb on the support line and get them to unlock it once mind.
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Aug 30, 2021 18:28
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Give good reasons not to buy this. I have built PCs in the past but it doesn't feel worth it at this point in time. I'm in the US and looking to move towards a dual screen setup where at least 1 screen is 4k or 2k. I mostly play strategy games but like the occasional FPS. https://www.newegg.com/abs-ali558/p/N82E16883360188?Item=N82E16883360188
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Aug 30, 2021 18:44
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sorry bud, no way you're getting 60+ 4k framerates out of a 3060 in a modern FPS game, not tried it with older titles. i guess how is your tolerance to it in strategy games, maybe with aggressive DLSS or FSR? i've not hosed around with it much. the chip is not ideal. it doesn't give you a PSU brand which makes kinda me 
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Aug 30, 2021 18:54
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well, wait i say not ideal maybe someone with more intel experience can comment, i can barely even read their product codes.
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Aug 30, 2021 18:55
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just a kazoo posted:Give good reasons not to buy this. I have built PCs in the past but it doesn't feel worth it at this point in time. I'm in the US and looking to move towards a dual screen setup where at least 1 screen is 4k or 2k. I mostly play strategy games but like the occasional FPS. You should be going higher tier than a 3060 for 4k. Even the 3090 struggles with 4k@60 for some titles. You shouldn't be settling for anything less than a 3080. The 11700k is a usable processor, but you won't get much benefit from the extra $100 MSRP it has over the 5600x. Also, the cooling on that case is going to be horrific. Glass front with no side vents = zero front airflow.
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Aug 30, 2021 19:12
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Seriously what's going on with that case? Three fans mounted to a glass panel? 
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Aug 30, 2021 19:25
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Yes, it's like a lava lamp.
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PittTheElder posted:Seriously what's going on with that case? Three fans mounted to a glass panel? i have that, there's lovely, lovely intake on the sides. i had to add some more on the top in my case. er: i have a glass panel fronted case, not this specific one rather
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Aug 30, 2021 19:26
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The Iron Rose posted:NR200 doesn't appear on PCPartPicker but it's sure on Amazon so all is well there! The b550i pro ax has an m.2 on the front and the back for two slots, much better vrm for upgrades down the road, 2x2 WiFi, 2.5gbe lan. It’s just one of those things that is worth buying if you plan on keeping it for a few years.
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Aug 30, 2021 20:01
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PittTheElder posted:You do not (probably). When you first log into your new PC it'll notice that it's different, but you just de-associate your old PC and claim the license on the new one and you're good to go. There is theoretically a point where they stop letting you do this, but I haven't found it yet. Haven’t checked recently, but afaik Lodge North also sells Win 7 keys for $5 because Microsoft has publically invalidated them, but not really. Depending on how quick you use it (it’s been EoL for a looong time officially, but my Win7 code for upgrading to Win10 Pro worked in April and LN not only gets keys to you FAST, but fully explains this possibility and has for several years. He also is very helpful to folks and does discounts for spending money on charities. Good Goon.
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Aug 30, 2021 22:16
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random question but most AIOs are going to have aluminum radiators, right? I have an older Nepton 140XL (interestingly, one of the last non-Asetek AIOs before their lawsuits shut everything down) that needs a refill (distilled water obviously) and I figured I'd put some biocide in it, and it appears there's such a thing as aluminum compatible vs copper compatible biocides...
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Aug 30, 2021 22:17
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change my name posted:I'm moving next week but my new place is fairly close so I was just going to take out my GPU and walk my system over. Should I remount my CPU cooler in case it shakes loose or am I just being insanely paranoid for no reason? Depends: Are you going to carry your heavy printer miles away to help a pretty girl and hopefully get maybe a hug? After all, you are a Goon!
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Aug 30, 2021 22:30
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^^^ Hey, that guy at least got to see girl's underwear out on her bed. I've been in quarantine long enough I might carry a printer a couple of blocks for that  In case fan chat, how can I best up my airflow game? I got a prebuilt recommended here a while ago and this is the case it came in: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811147313 So just one fan in front, directly up against a solid flat panel (I guess it draws air in from the sides??) and one fan out the back. I'm lightly overclocking my GTX 2060 and it's running just a little warmer than I would like, seems to top out in the high 70s, maybe just touching the 80s sometimes. If I take the glass side panel off it will drop down the lowish 70s but the GPU fans are in Jet TakeoffTM mode the whole time. Should I stack fans up the front and just try to draw a bunch of air in and pump it out the back, or could I use the mesh up top to pull in more cool air or vent more air out that way?
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Aug 31, 2021 06:29
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You say your front fan is right against the front panel, but on the store page for that case they show the front fan having a couple inches of room between it and the front panel. Is that how it is for you, or did they mount it on the other side of that rail, directly behind the front panel? The thing is, those kinds of side vents are far from ideal, but they can work okay as long as you 1) fill up the front with fans to reduce hot air recirculation, and 2) give them room to breathe. If your current front fan is right up against the front panel, then I would remount it on the other side of the rail it's currently mounted to and then add one or two more fans (however many you need to fill up the front slots). Top vents are usually meant for exhaust. You can mount fans there too, but I usually recommend passive exhaust in those unless your CPU is overheating. Top mounted exhaust fans can actually guide air away from your GPU, and putting a fan in the frontmost top slot will often vent away fresh air. I'd only recommend a couple new fans to fill out the front for now and then see what happens. edit: Actually, what I would honestly do is just grab the 5-pack of Arctic P12 PWM fans (assuming that your motherboard has 4-pin fan headers—check first), take out the crappy fans your prebuilt probably shipped with, and replace them with the Arctics. Three in the front as intake, one in the rear as exhaust, and then maybe toss the fifth in the back top slot or something. Those are guaranteed to give you way more airflow with hopefully less noise. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Aug 31, 2021 |
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Aug 31, 2021 06:57
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DerekSmartymans posted:Depends: Are you going to carry your heavy printer miles away to help a pretty girl and hopefully get maybe a hug? After all, you are a Goon! I have been helping my girlfriend lug furniture home all week so you're not totally wrong...
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Aug 31, 2021 12:22
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:You say your front fan is right against the front panel, but on the store page for that case they show the front fan having a couple inches of room between it and the front panel. Is that how it is for you, or did they mount it on the other side of that rail, directly behind the front panel? The thing is, those kinds of side vents are far from ideal, but they can work okay as long as you 1) fill up the front with fans to reduce hot air recirculation, and 2) give them room to breathe. If your current front fan is right up against the front panel, then I would remount it on the other side of the rail it's currently mounted to and then add one or two more fans (however many you need to fill up the front slots). Good post on cooling. If you don’t have enough headers you can get some splits (max 2 fans per header) or a fan controller too.
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Aug 31, 2021 14:35
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Not entirely certain if this is the correct thread for asking about uninterruptible power supply (UPS) units or not, apologies if the question needs to be asked elsewhere. Is there a general rule for researching how much power needs to be considered for a suitable unit? My example would be a mid-range desktop and an unraid server, primarily with enough battery to be able to cleanly shut down in 10-15 minutes or less in the event of an outage, so nothing really extraordinary. Also, what would be good recommendations for a UPS unit that can handle that particular need? I guess power requirements would need to be defined first, before coming up with a budget.
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Aug 31, 2021 15:18
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Mursh posted:So like most people I’ve been having zero luck trying to get a video card so settled on a prebuilt. I was originally going to get a Dell XPS 8940 with the rtx 3060 ti and an i7-11700. After waiting 2 weeks and watching so many videos I was having some apprehension about buying it (I had ordered a noctua replacement cpu cooler) and “luckily” it’s now on back order for at least a month so I’m going to cancel. I tried to shoot you a PM but yours are turned off. I just recently upgraded to a 4k system so my "old" system is going to be sold on SA Mart or RFD soon, a lot cheaper than that one you linked. Before you overpay for that prebuilt one, I thought I would give you a shot at it. Specs are: MSI GeForce 1080ti - still a great card, never used for mining Ryzen 3700x 8c/16t CPU Noctua NH-D15S CPU Cooler - best air cooler on the market IMO MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC motherboard 32GB DDR4-3200 RAM 2TB Crucial MX500 SSD Corsair HX750 modular PSU Fractal Design Define R6 silent chassis with removable dust filters on all intake/exhausts The 1080ti will still carry you for quite awhile unless you're gaming at 4k. It's all prebuilt and assembled with Windows 10 Pro on it. I'm near the GTA in Ontario, shoot me a PM if interested and we can setup an SA Mart thread or whatever.
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Aug 31, 2021 17:13
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Killer_B posted:Not entirely certain if this is the correct thread for asking about uninterruptible power supply (UPS) units or not, apologies if the question needs to be asked elsewhere. I am interested in this, too. Is there a command or app or even a Power Shell script to detect a power flux and shut down as quickly as reasonably possible while the UPS is working? Preferably a UPS that is small BUT has a reasonable number of receptacles. My computer has a 750W EVGA PSU (also brand new) if that makes a difference. I’m terrified of something corrupting or damaging my GPU simply because even though I got it at MSRP along with my prebuilt, it would be horrible to try and source a new one. It’s not top of the line, and I still have my whole 970 rig, but I don’t think I could even find a new one and I’ve been an addict for Steam and Epic free games, but only a few are old enough to run well on three-generation old hardware. DerekSmartymans fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Aug 31, 2021 |
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Aug 31, 2021 17:15
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:You say your front fan is right against the front panel, but on the store page for that case they show the front fan having a couple inches of room between it and the front panel. Is that how it is for you, or did they mount it on the other side of that rail, directly behind the front panel? The thing is, those kinds of side vents are far from ideal, but they can work okay as long as you 1) fill up the front with fans to reduce hot air recirculation, and 2) give them room to breathe. If your current front fan is right up against the front panel, then I would remount it on the other side of the rail it's currently mounted to and then add one or two more fans (however many you need to fill up the front slots). Front fan definitely doesn't have a couple of inches, maybe one, just the thickness of the front panel itself where you can see those slot vents on the sides. But yeah I was leaning towards just filling the case with fans and banking on 4 or 5 fans at lower speeds still being quieter than my GPU trying to lift off. CPU temps seem fine, I had a temp monitor open in my other monitor while running some games and none of the cores got out of the 60s. I'll verify I've got enough fan controls on the MB and start looking at filling out the front panel with MORE INTAKE.
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Aug 31, 2021 18:30
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Takes No Damage posted:Front fan definitely doesn't have a couple of inches, maybe one, just the thickness of the front panel itself where you can see those slot vents on the sides. But yeah I was leaning towards just filling the case with fans and banking on 4 or 5 fans at lower speeds still being quieter than my GPU trying to lift off. CPU temps seem fine, I had a temp monitor open in my other monitor while running some games and none of the cores got out of the 60s. I'll verify I've got enough fan controls on the MB and start looking at filling out the front panel with MORE INTAKE. The 5-pack I linked can be daisy chained so you'll only need a couple headers most likely. Many cases also come with fan hubs, though this seems like something they'd cheap out on here.
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Aug 31, 2021 20:10
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dead cheap too if you need to retrofit, lil bit of blu tac or something on there, you're sorted. honestly i wish motherboards would just come with more headers but hey.
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Aug 31, 2021 20:29
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Takes No Damage posted:^^^ Hey, that guy at least got to see girl's underwear out on her bed. I've been in quarantine long enough I might carry a printer a couple of blocks for that Depending on how bad front restricts airflow (your right it looks like it draws from the vertical side grilles), I would put two 140mm fans in front and one 140mm exhaust out the back; that gives you positive pressure and I don't generally think top fans recommended: if they're exhaust they interrupt the airflow to and through the CPU (and with positive pressure hot air doesn't need help exhausting on top), and with intake they work against the natural direction of the hot air while also still interrupting the airflow for the CPU. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Aug 31, 2021 |
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Aug 31, 2021 20:48
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The "natural direction" of hot air doesn't matter in a case with controlled airflow. Convection happens slowly at the air temps cases tend to be at and is trivially overpowered by case fans. You can turn bottom-intake/top-exhaust cases upside down, and the impact on cooling performance is negligible. The main thing I'd worry about in this instance is air recirculation. It seems likely to me, given the case and fan arrangement, that a lot of the air being pushed through his lone intake fan is coming from inside the case rather than outside. Filling the front with a wall of fans configured for intake would prevent this in addition to providing more overall airflow.
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Aug 31, 2021 21:01
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i am reiterating some learned wisdom here so apologies if it's not completely accurate, but my impression was hot air rising (i think it's via convection but that could be wrong), while definitely a force that exists, does not meaningfully compete with active cooling. there's a reason that a passively cooled device like that noctua silent beast are many times larger and perform much worse, and that's because fans are very good. you get a slight increase in efficiency (which practically might manifest as a miniscule acoustic difference) if you are able to take advantage of it but even if you're working actively against it the difference is very minor. also, again in contrast to the common wisdom, i added an exhaust and an intake on the top of my case right next to each other cause i ran out of fan headers and all my other fans were dumb and daisy-chained to the case, leaving all sorts of supposedly terrible 90 degree airflow occurances. it works extremely well, contrary to expectations and much wisdom about recirculating air etc. cpu gets very fresh air, all the other fans in the case move air back-to-front and bottom-to-top, particularly the double 120mms on the CPU cooler. could it work a little better, probably a lot better with different cases, for sure a lot quieter? absolutely. but i built for price and performance rather than acoustics and my solution works pretty well - honestly better than i expected. in my limited observation i can't think of a single time i've added a fan and my performance went down? e: haha beaten by the good doctor
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Aug 31, 2021 21:08
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Okay, work has given me a $2k budget to get a workstation to do 3D modeling, rendering, and other digital design bullshit on. I need to save a little of the overhead for monitor/keyboard/mouse, so I'm aiming for something <$1,800ish for now. These have popped up for me during my search:
Are any of these contenders, or am I better off just getting into the weeds with a parts-picker and trying to build something to suit?
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Aug 31, 2021 21:40
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Harvey Baldman posted:Okay, work has given me a $2k budget to get a workstation to do 3D modeling, rendering, and other digital design bullshit on. I need to save a little of the overhead for monitor/keyboard/mouse, so I'm aiming for something <$1,800ish for now. Don't spend $1,800 on a system with a 3060 in it, there are way better options at that price point even in the other prebuilts on Newegg.
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Aug 31, 2021 21:45
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change my name posted:Don't spend $1,800 on a system with a 3060 in it, there are way better options at that price point even in the other prebuilts on Newegg. Okay - I didn't realize the 3060 was problematic. Do you have any advice for what else I should be steering towards?
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Aug 31, 2021 21:49
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change my name posted:Don't spend $1,800 on a system with a 3060 in it, there are way better options at that price point even in the other prebuilts on Newegg. Not if you want 32GB of RAM, which the OP wants for their use case. edit: The 3060 is the weakest of the new Ampere cards but if you're building on such a tight budget, it might be the best you're gonna get.
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Aug 31, 2021 21:56
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Not if you want 32GB of RAM, which the OP wants for their use case. RAM isn't that expensive. Here's a config for $1,600 with a 3060 ti and Ryzen 5 3700x for $1,600, he could just buy 2 more sticks for like $60-70 and slot them in: https://www.newegg.com/abs-ala224/p/N82E16883360021?quicklink=true Also for some reason none of the three builds posted have RAM speeds included? You'd think people would want that information
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Aug 31, 2021 22:00
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