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I can't be the only person that thought all versions of chromecast were rear end from a user standpoint?!
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Mar 7, 2025 11:37
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Olympic Mathlete posted:I can't be the only person that thought all versions of chromecast were rear end from a user standpoint?! Maybe my brain is broken but both my 4k and audio only issue was setting up due to moving the configuration to google home app, which is pleasant as putting your hand in a wood chipper. Once set up, you open the software you need to watch or listen, press the cast button and it’s done.
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Mar 7, 2025 15:03
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bigperm posted:I ordered this one already. The Wiim looks cool but yeah I think it's overkill for me. That 1Mii seems to be leaning pretty heavily on Wiim’s brand and logo, etc. Its probably great, 14K reviews with an average of 4.5 stars is a lot even if some of them are probably fake, and Bluetooth transmitters are commodity goods and the underlying hardware is probably some good off-the-shelf parts, but if it doesn’t work out well or it starts giving you problems don’t be afraid to return it. IIRC Logitech also still makes an inexpensive RCA Bluetooth dongle that is either a rebranded white label thing or it’s just been cloned and knocked off a bajillion times with mixed results.
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Mar 7, 2025 16:14
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Actual full size loudspeakers are where bluetooth sounds the worst in my experience, modern portable stuff is designed around its limitations.
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Mar 7, 2025 18:19
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reposting from Mac thread:Taima posted:I'm having a bit of trouble with my audio setup on MacOS.
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Mar 15, 2025 16:24
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trilobite terror posted:reposting from Mac thread: Here's some quick things to try: - Make sure the receiver is set to auto change format on source. I have no idea what the Pioneer would call this setting. - Have you tried using the cable between the receiver and the apple tv with the mac mini? If not, try that. This eliminates cable issues. - Try using the hdmi port the apple tv is plugged into with the mac mini. This eliminates the possibility it's a port issue.
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Mar 15, 2025 19:31
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I have an old-school Pioneer receiver and you just set it to "PCM" and it changes automatically based on source material.
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Mar 16, 2025 00:28
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My 19 year old Denon I use for PC audio is taking a poo poo and for the first time I don't have a spare receiver around to use. Needs to power a pair of LS50 Metas, loudly, and have a sub output. Optical input would be nice but analog or HDMI would also be fine. What you got? e: Something like this seems to fit the bill? https://fosiaudio.com/products/da2120c-bluetooth-5-0-stereo-2-1-channel-amplifier-receiver-dac-remote-control bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Mar 16, 2025 |
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Mar 16, 2025 15:57
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I'm too lazy to go searching receiver specs on my phone, but isn't "2 × 80W at 10% THD+N Into 8 Ω" a very high distortion level?
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Mar 16, 2025 16:18
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bird with big dick posted:My 19 year old Denon I use for PC audio is taking a poo poo and for the first time I don't have a spare receiver around to use. Needs to power a pair of LS50 Metas, loudly, and have a sub output. Optical input would be nice but analog or HDMI would also be fine. What you got? For a bit more money ($200-550 all in depending on what you ended up getting and how) you could get something like a Yamaha or Onkyo, Denon, etc, stereo amp or receiver or thereabouts and have something that doesn’t run off of an external laptop PSU. The market is rife with these new Chinese sub-$200 Class D amps and I’m sure a lot of them are aces and will prove themselves in time, but for now these commodity PSU-based units still seem really janky when name brand companies are making relatively inexpensive “real” receivers in the old school way that have a proven record of running ~20+ years. If you don’t want to wait for something to go on sale, Parts Express will sell you an AS301 for $350, which is hardly my favorite price or unit (I’d go 501 or 701 ideally, or eBay’s got a silver 301 which they don’t even make any more for $298) but is plenty solid, 60WPC, sub out, bulletproof etc. Even the RS202 ($180) and RN303 ($250), which are a cut below the AS as amplifiers but have more networking features, would be a better choice IMO. Scott Baculum fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Mar 16, 2025 |
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Mar 16, 2025 16:28
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Zorak of Michigan posted:I'm too lazy to go searching receiver specs on my phone, but isn't "2 × 80W at 10% THD+N Into 8 Ω" a very high distortion level? Yeah it sucks that's why they're cheap. trilobite terror posted:For a bit more money ($200-550 all in depending on what you ended up getting and how) you could get something like a Yamaha or Onkyo, Denon, etc, stereo amp or receiver or thereabouts and have something that doesn’t run off of an external laptop PSU. Yeah 301 looks nice. Thanks, that's probably what I'll do.
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Mar 16, 2025 16:40
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Zorak of Michigan posted:I'm too lazy to go searching receiver specs on my phone, but isn't "2 × 80W at 10% THD+N Into 8 Ω" a very high distortion level? That's how it goes when you want the big watts. At 20W the distortion is probably drastically reduced but then you could only put small numbers in your ad or spec page. I suspect the Denons and Sonys would also produce 10% distortion if you turn them to eleven.
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Mar 16, 2025 18:19
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I had to sell my old setup because we moved countries. Where I am now is slim pickings for pretty much anything so I picked up a pair of Thonet and Vander Kugels, mostly just to get out of lovely TV speaker land. They have Bluetooth and optical audio for connections. I’m definitely not losing anything by using optical, right?
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Mar 16, 2025 19:45
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Saukkis posted:That's how it goes when you want the big watts. At 20W the distortion is probably drastically reduced but then you could only put small numbers in your ad or spec page. I suspect the Denons and Sonys would also produce 10% distortion if you turn them to eleven. Well, yeah, but 11 would be a lot more watts. Even the $400 Denon that was the first one shown at Crutchfield reports 70 watts per channel into 8 ohms (20-20,000 Hz) at 0.08% THD, with 2 channels driven.
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Mar 16, 2025 21:55
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Well Played Mauer posted:I had to sell my old setup because we moved countries. Where I am now is slim pickings for pretty much anything so I picked up a pair of Thonet and Vander Kugels, mostly just to get out of lovely TV speaker land. Optical is by far the preferred option, compared to Bluetooth
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Mar 17, 2025 06:03
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Sweet, thanks. I’m now trying to keep myself from taking these back and buying a receiver setup.
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Mar 20, 2025 23:04
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passive speakers and a separate amp or receiver is almost always the best option, unless you specifically need desktop monitors or space is at a real premium
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Mar 20, 2025 23:26
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trilobite terror posted:passive speakers and a separate amp or receiver is almost always the best option, unless you specifically need desktop monitors or space is at a real premium Yeah, before I left the States I had a 2.1 system based on recommendations from the other thread. I'm in Latam now, so options are more limited for anything electronic unless I want to pay 2x the price for everything, so I'm trying to be a bit more economic and still get a good experience. The setup I got into now is absolutely better than TV speakers. It's got a bit more low end than I'd like, but for a small house with limited space, my only grief is the TV remote can't control the volume level of the speakers when they're connected via optical, and the remote for the speakers sucks. I'm getting an IR blaster to try to address that problem, so we'll see how it goes.
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Mar 21, 2025 16:48
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Antenna connection question: I've a 2006 Wrangler, and looking to get info on a cable plug type. I've been (unsuccessfully) looking to make or find a one-piece antenna cable, Motorola at the radio/head unit, but for the life of me I can find no similar connector to what plugs into the antenna mount end. The only place I have found it available is in the OEM ($) cabling, and the garbage tier replacement antenna set on amazon. The latter is what I got about 10 years ago and it failed (I suspect just like the OEM) at the mount end where for some absurd reason there is a right angle bent at the plug that goes into the mount (dispite it being a straight shot through the 2 layers of the jeep body), and the inner "sleeve" that is crimped to the coax inner wire snapped from the wire. It truly should not be this difficult to determine what type of plug/connector it is that goes into the antenna mount. Seriously.  I can $pend ridiculous amounts on an OEM Mopar replacement 2-piece, or cobble together a 1-piece that would be far superior. I just need to determine what this blasted end is called and where to source from. I miss Radio Shack. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Mar 22, 2025 |
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Mar 22, 2025 22:39
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Hasselblad posted:Antenna connection question: You try the car subforum?
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Mar 23, 2025 04:06
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I don't know how much it costs, but if it lasted 10 years, maybe just suck it up and get the OEM one? You could maybe try to seal it or put dielectric grease on it, or try to protect it from heat/cold. Looking at the picture again, it's pretty drat corroded, install it on a dry place make sure there's zero moister where it connects and smear it with silicone to keep it dry.
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Mar 23, 2025 05:57
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LRADIKAL posted:I don't know how much it costs, but if it lasted 10 years, maybe just suck it up and get the OEM one? You could maybe try to seal it or put dielectric grease on it, or try to protect it from heat/cold. Looking at the picture again, it's pretty drat corroded, install it on a dry place make sure there's zero moister where it connects and smear it with silicone to keep it dry. When I figure out the new one I will indeed be coating the exterior in sealant. The replacement for the end is only the half of it. The design of the OEM is a 2-piece cable, which just introduces more potential for bad connection. What I am envisioning is a single coax length. The Wranglers are notorious for bad reception. Fozzy The Bear posted:You try the car subforum? The question is specifically about the coax end type, I figured the AV crew might have insight. Edit: Reached out to the manufacturer of the 3rd party one I bought less than 4 years ago, hoping they will look at the pictures, go "oh gently caress" and send a replacement. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Mar 23, 2025 |
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Mar 23, 2025 16:17
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If I have some (older, larger, like 10” woofer-sized) loudspeakers in long term storage, is there any issue with having them front-to-front? Will the drivers get damaged somehow? I figured it was a good way to prevent something like a foot from accidentally getting shoved through a driver when I rummage around in the storage space, but now I’m worried that the drivers will fatigue each other somehow or pull/push each other out of alignment, interfere magnetically, etc. Something probably totally stupid and irrational.
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Mar 29, 2025 01:21
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I had an AudioSource AD1002 that went kaput. Didn't even last 4 years, which sucks. Opened it up to diagnose and it was totally hosed with bad bias on all the ICs while the supply looked fine. Is there any other 2-zone, rackmount amplifier I should take a look at? That one is no longer for sale. My use case is being able to cast to an AirPlay Target (I use an AirPort Express with the stereo out) to stereo speakers in 2 distinct zones. This one was nice because it would detect the AirPort Express output and "wake up", going back to sleep afterward.
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Apr 1, 2025 16:31
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I can attest to these being very durable. You'd have to figure out your own zone switching, but it's got 2 sets of stereo outputs. I don't know how "hifi" it is, but I use a bunch of them as utility amps. https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SLA4--art-sla-4-4x140w-power-amplifier I think something must have happened with EU regulations on idle power usage or something, because I've noticed several amps and powered speakers that used to have an auto power feature but no longer do. Apple hasn't made an AirPort Express in ages. I heard having one of those on a modern wifi network can slow all your other devices down too. Is that a thing?
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Apr 1, 2025 18:26
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Extron XPA 1002 perhaps? We've used them at work for 15+ years and I'm yet to see one die. I'm seeing them 2nd hand for £50 these days so depending on what your local market is saying it's worth a look. Buy a shelf for your rack, pop it on, forget about it for a decade. They come in 4 configurations, 1002 does 60w per channel, 1002 Plus does 100w. Then there's a couple of line options for both 70v and 100v ceiling speakers denoted by the name eg; XPA 1002 70v. https://www.extron.com/product/xpa1002
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Apr 1, 2025 18:49
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trilobite terror posted:If I have some (older, larger, like 10” woofer-sized) loudspeakers in long term storage, is there any issue with having them front-to-front? Will the drivers get damaged somehow? The only damage I've had from speakers in long term storage was when rats/mice decided to make the port in the back their new home 
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Apr 2, 2025 01:21
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trilobite terror posted:If I have some (older, larger, like 10” woofer-sized) loudspeakers in long term storage, is there any issue with having them front-to-front? Will the drivers get damaged somehow? That's the way I've done it, seemed safest. No trouble over a couple years
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Apr 2, 2025 01:35
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mariooncrack posted:Here's some quick things to try: Thank you! I've managed to get everything figured out, I appreciate you and the other responses. Now that I have everything working great, my only remaining problem is that Atmos music is much, much, much quieter than non-Atmos tracks. I use Apple Music via both MacOS and Windows. the Windows app has been improved a ton and will now output real Atmos. Since it's happening the exact same via two different OS, I am inclined to believe this is intrinsic to Atmos songs, at least on Apple Music. So I'm trying to figure out how to equalize Atmos and Non-atmos tracks. Can a receiver set a relative volume for specifically when it's playing Atmos? I have a Pioneer VSX-LX305. Apple Music has a "Sound Check" feature which is designed to equalize volume between tracks, but this is such a dramatic volume difference (we are talking 25db on my Pioneer DIRAC receiver) that if a song plays in normal audio when I have the receiver set for Atmos levels of volume, I genuinely worry it will blow out either the fronts - LS50 Metas - or my eardrums, whatever breaks first. Even if Sound Check is turned on. It just can't equalize for such a massive differential. I've asked this elsewhere and someone said "see if your receiver has a setting to fix that" but I can't find one. That doesn't mean much though, I'm not handy with the audio stuff. I don't see why it would matter but just in case the fronts are ls50 meta as mentioned and the rears are R3s, sub is rp-1600sw idk any thoughts yall e: for the record I totally underrated atmos music, good atmos tracks can be spectacular. I'm currently working through the Atmos version of Kid Cudi's man on the moon and having a good time with it. Apple Music also has an entire "made for atmos" playlist that has a ton of really interesting stuff. TBH before recently I figured it had to be some lame gimmick. Taima fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Apr 27, 2025 |
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Apr 27, 2025 19:49
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Ive been having consistent problems with sound via my Sony STR dn1080 receiver and LG OLED 65 inch tv. Across all streaming apps (using built in smart TV software) the sound will either not register at all, or heavily distort, cut in and out, before shortly dropping completely. I have the TV connected via HDMI to the receiver, which then feeds the signal into 2 Sony tower speakers. I did as much troubleshooting I could with the receiver itself, but when playing Blu ray disc on my PS4 (connected via HDMI to receiver) it comes through clear as day. It seems the issue is particular to the TV itself, as it plays sound through the built in speakers fine, but not anywhere else. All hardware I purchased about 4 years ago, and though this issue has come up a couple times it seems like it either resolves itself, or if I fiddle with speaker settings enough it goes away. This time I havent had such luck, and debate getting a separate box to run streaming apps, like AppleTV or whatever, and seeing if that does it. If I could avoid spending the time and money to do that, that'd be great.
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May 27, 2025 19:08
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MortLansky posted:Ive been having consistent problems with sound via my Sony STR dn1080 receiver and LG OLED 65 inch tv. Across all streaming apps (using built in smart TV software) the sound will either not register at all, or heavily distort, cut in and out, before shortly dropping completely. I have the TV connected via HDMI to the receiver, which then feeds the signal into 2 Sony tower speakers. Have you tried different cables?
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May 28, 2025 16:16
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Also try setting everything to bitstream stereo since you only have 2 speakers anyway. This solved the bulk of my ARC quirks.
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May 28, 2025 16:38
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HDMI-eARC suddenly stopped working on my Samsung S90C and Q990D soundbar. As far as I know, no settings or hardware was changed, it just stopped one day. It failed the day before I had to travel so I just unplugged the soundbar while I was gone so it’d work for the family. Now I’m back and absolutely cannot fix it. 1: Discovered the problem trying to use an AppleTV 4K. Can fully replicate the problem using the Samsung TV’s built in Netflix app, or anything that produces sound at all (including menu navigation blips.) 2: The TV speakers themselves work fine. 3: The soundbar set itself works fine. I can stream to it via airplay, and playing the tv audio through it via WiFi also works. Works:  Also works:  No audio at all:  Note that that one initially just said “HDMI” in parentheses there (with no audio output.) I had it sitting there for a bit and it changed to “HDMI-eARC” as below (still no audio.) Also no audio:  For the eARC channel, I am using the very hefty ultra high speed HDMI cable that came with the soundbar, and have verified it’s plugged into the right port at both the TV and soundbar. I have also tried another HDMI cable, one that I had my Apple TV test throughput on, it passed with flying colors. I tried both Auto and PCM for the audio output format. I have run software updates on the TV and soundbar, and have gone as far as factory resetting the TV in desperation. I imagine my next step is probably a call to Samsung, but I honestly don’t have a lot of optimism there so I thought I’d give it a shot here.
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May 28, 2025 18:24
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Bad Munki posted:HDMI-eARC suddenly stopped working on my Samsung S90C and Q990D soundbar. As far as I know, no settings or hardware was changed, it just stopped one day. It failed the day before I had to travel so I just unplugged the soundbar while I was gone so it’d work for the family. Physically unplug the TV, as well as the soundbar from the power, wait a few minutes, then plug em back in, turn on the tv, and see if the soundbar turns on and starts working like normal. I've got an S95D and the Q900C, and I've only ever had them... Decouple, for lack of a better term just once. My Apple TV is connected directly to the TV. (I also use the Q-Symphony gimmick) Mister Facetious fucked around with this message at 07:24 on May 29, 2025 |
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May 29, 2025 07:20
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I did cut them from power for about an hour by turning off the surge protector, that should have been the same as actually unplugging them, but I’m out of ideas so I’ll give it a shot. And yeah, entire system is Apple TV->TV->soundbar. Very simple, that was the whole point of this setup.
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May 29, 2025 13:00
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Anyone have a preferred supplier of flat pack (e: ported) subs using one or two 18” or 21” drivers?
bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 15:50 on May 29, 2025 |
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May 29, 2025 15:48
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bird with big dick posted:Anyone have a preferred supplier of flat pack (e: ported) subs using one or two 18” or 21” drivers? Parts Express? Edit: IDK if they’re still doing kits, you’d have to grab the enclosure, driver, and plate amp (if that’s what you’re gonna go with) separately Scott Baculum fucked around with this message at 16:28 on May 29, 2025 |
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May 29, 2025 16:23
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I don’t think they have much other than basic sealed cubes.
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May 29, 2025 19:25
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bird with big dick posted:I don’t think they have much other than basic sealed cubes. Huh. IIRC they once had ported enclosures in that size, maybe not. Maybe Madisound?
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May 29, 2025 19:28
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This place does a lot of flat pack enclosures https://shop.gsgad.com/
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May 29, 2025 19:28
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