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Lowclock posted:Haha okay. I figured this is what you meant. If it isn't the sender, I'll probably just try running 5W40 year-round. The 40-weight I had in there was fine all summer. The manual recommends 5W30 in the winter, but if its too thin at operating temperature then what can I do.
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Nov 29, 2009 19:58
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Guys, I'm looking at buying a 91' 535i E34 at the moment. It's in awesome nick, low K's, and has a full, one owner service history. Anything I should be looking at in particular? I was looking at a few of the 99/00 models, but the 91 is just way more sexy.
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Dec 1, 2009 12:51
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Following up on my loose steering, bimmerforums had me look at the flex disc in the steering column. This is what I found:  Obviously a slight tear, which will only get worse. How long until it breaks? Would this definitely cause loose steering, or is this just slight wear? A new part is about fifty bucks and doesn't look too hard to replace. Thoughts?
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Dec 1, 2009 19:09
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Penguin Radar posted:Guys, I'm looking at buying a 91' 535i E34 at the moment. It's in awesome nick, low K's, and has a full, one owner service history. Anything I should be looking at in particular? great car, bulletproof engine, tons of torque. Is it a 5 speed? Do it do it do it.
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Dec 1, 2009 19:14
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Had quite the interesting weekend with the 6'er. Took it out to the desert (120 Miles) for thanksgiving, and the cat went out. Fortunately I have a friend with a shop there, so we drilled the heck out of it. Now, it no longer spits when shifting, and the tunnel and shifter don't get burning hot to the touch. It's also dropped the interior temperature of the car by 10 degrees. I had no idea cats got THAT hot when they were failing. Secondly, while I had it up, AGAIN, I took off the front wheels to see if I could find the source of that shimmy between 65-75 mph. I balanced the wheels and they were both in perfect shape. As I was putting them back on, I noticed that the 1/16th inch spacers don't hug the center of the hub perfectly. There's like a 1/8th inch gap all the way around. So the spacer never is perfectly centered. Therefore when I put the wheels back on, the wheel doesn't have perfect spacing behind it. So, after replacing springs, struts, 2x alignment, 40+ shop hours, 6 trips on the lift, and various other made-up causes of concern, it turns out to be a 5 inch metal disc causing all my heartache... I hope. So now, my mission is to find a spacer/adapter for Enkei wheels to BMW hubs. Because I DEFINITELY need that 16th of an inch otherwise I rub against the strut seat. That, or new wheels, which I'd love to do but can NOT afford.
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Dec 1, 2009 20:05
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Can't you rig up some sort of 1/8" spacer teeth to stick along the the bore facing hole of the spacers? I'd be surprised if that little mass that close to the axis could cause that a balance issue. 1gm at 3" out equates to 0.25gm at 12", or a pebble stuck in the tread.
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Dec 1, 2009 20:10
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Jorsh posted:great car, bulletproof engine, tons of torque. Is it a 5 speed? Do it do it do it. Nah, auto. But I much prefer auto transmissions, as lame as that sounds. Still do it?
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Dec 1, 2009 22:10
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CornHolio posted:Following up on my loose steering, bimmerforums had me look at the flex disc in the steering column. I assume this is a late model E36 M3? I proactively replaced my "STEERING COUPLER" in my 02 330 a few months ago as part of my plan to replace all the rubber/plastic poo poo in the car - as I get to it and hopefully before it fails (next is the Oil separator lines). There is no question yours is toasted at this point. I just had my shop do it since I was having them do the rear o2 sensors anyway but I don't think it's too major of a DIY. You need to mark the exact spot on the steering piece where it came off though so the replacement lines up to the same exact spot.
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Dec 1, 2009 22:18
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Keyser S0ze posted:I assume this is a late model E36 M3? 328i. I don't think there's anything drastically different in the steering between the two, though. How long do I have until it gets dangerously bad?
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Dec 1, 2009 22:25
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CornHolio posted:328i. I don't think there's anything drastically different in the steering between the two, though. I'd say get it replaced within a few months, sooner the better. I bet your steering feels more responsive after as well.
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Dec 1, 2009 22:46
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Keyser S0ze posted:I'd say get it replaced within a few months, sooner the better. I bet your steering feels more responsive after as well. ok thats about what I thought. With the driveshaft flexdisc I could see replacing it immediately, but with steering it never spins fast, although on the other hand if it fails could it sever the steering from the wheels? I'll probably get it replaced in a week or two regardless. It's $50 I'll have to spend now or later so I might as well get it over with. I'm planning on a full front suspension rebuild in the spring so by summer my car should feel (nearly) brand loving new (already replaced the rear shocks, shock mounts and RTABs).
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Dec 1, 2009 22:58
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Penguin Radar posted:Nah, auto. But I much prefer auto transmissions, as lame as that sounds. Eeeeh. If you're looking for a big comfy solid sedan that's good at long cruises but can be made to take turns decently and gets not that impressive gas mileage, sure.
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Dec 2, 2009 00:34
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Jorsh posted:Eeeeh. If you're looking for a big comfy solid sedan that's good at long cruises but can be made to take turns decently and gets not that impressive gas mileage, sure. Dude, it's a 5-series, not a sports car. Auto tranny rules. The bummer though is that the 535 E34 auto was only made with a 4-speed, which might be a little crappy. I have only driven the 5-speed auto (ZF 5HP30), which is very good, in my opinion. Perhaps consider a 530 V8 or 540 V8, which come with a 5-speed auto? The 535 is a sweet engine though - great sound, easy to work on, decent power - it's not that, but if you want auto, the 4-speed might not be so swell. A 535 4-speed auto will also get abysmal mileage, but hey, who cares, you're buying an old 200+ hp BMW.
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Dec 2, 2009 01:13
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Pilsner posted:Dude, it's a 5-series, not a sports car. Auto tranny rules. I've driven a '90 535i with a 5-speed manual. Even in an autobahn cruiser it's still something I really enjoy having. Personal preference, I guess. I'd totally rock an E32 7 series with a manual gearbox as well.
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Dec 2, 2009 03:31
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Pilsner posted:Dude, it's a 5-series, not a sports car. Auto tranny rules.
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Dec 2, 2009 03:51
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flublandDrussiavelt posted:not only does it get appalling mileage, the trannies were failure prone and you could end up needing the whole thing replaced. That's something to check for, btw, if the owner doesn't have records of the tranny fluid being changed, skip it right away, no question. Since you perfer a manual, get a 525i e34, which has almost the same power from a more efficient modern engine. 209hp out of 3.5 liters is abysmal, the m50 has 190 and gets 25 on the highway instead of 19. Yeah, but the best thing about the M30 has never been horsepower or efficiency. It's bulletproofness and gobsmacks of torque. 225ft/lb from the M30B35 vs 184ft/lb from the M50B25
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Dec 2, 2009 05:23
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Thanks for the advice guys, I'll take it for a drive next week and see how it goes. Although, it's incredibly rare I'll find a car I actually like, so I'll probably buy it anyway. Don't much care about milage or costs, really. It's mainly gunna be used to do epic roadtrips on open highway, given my job keeps posting me either side of the country, and that country is Australia, which is kinda fuckoff huge. I know little of cars, but want to learn. Is there anyway I could chuck the 5 speed into her if the 4 speed did suck and was on its way out?
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Dec 2, 2009 06:42
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Penguin Radar posted:Thanks for the advice guys, I'll take it for a drive next week and see how it goes. Although, it's incredibly rare I'll find a car I actually like, so I'll probably buy it anyway. Don't much care about milage or costs, really. It's mainly gunna be used to do epic roadtrips on open highway, given my job keeps posting me either side of the country, and that country is Australia, which is kinda fuckoff huge. You mean a 5 speed auto? i dont think it's possible since a 5 speed was never designed for that engine and the one from the m52 wouldn't fit or have correct ratios (if you mean to a manual then yes).
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Dec 2, 2009 06:51
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flublandDrussiavelt posted:You mean a 5 speed auto? i dont think it's possible since a 5 speed was never designed for that engine and the one from the m52 wouldn't fit or have correct ratios (if you mean to a manual then yes). Guess these cars are a little more advanced than the stock standard Holden's I'm used to, cheers for that  I'll give it a look at next week, and more than likely buy it on the spot if the service history is decent, which it looks like it is.
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Dec 2, 2009 07:19
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flublandDrussiavelt posted:not only does it get appalling mileage, the trannies were failure prone and you could end up needing the whole thing replaced. That's something to check for, btw, if the owner doesn't have records of the tranny fluid being changed, skip it right away, no question. Source? Are you sure you aren't confusing the 4-speed (4HP22) with the more failure-prone 5-speed 5HP30 gearbox? I've read that the 4-speed is actually quite reliable. quote:Since you perfer a manual, get a 525i e34, which has almost the same power from a more efficient modern engine. 209hp out of 3.5 liters is abysmal, the m50 has 190 and gets 25 on the highway instead of 19. The 535 is quite a bit faster, as said, lots of torque. Also, "modern engine" is not a valid argument in my opinion. The only thing you "gain" from that is more stuff to fix and more expensive repairs. I've owned an M30 engine for 3 years, and there's nothing wrong with it, it has smooth idle (just noisy/clattering), starts instantly, runs great. It's not like the M50 has a revolutionary new torque curve or anything, just mainly better mileage. It's like this: E34 with the brain/wallet: 525i E34 with the heart: M5, 540 or 535 (listed most expensive to cheapest).
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Dec 2, 2009 15:31
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The clutch fan on my M20B27 magically flew off and took nothing with it. Here I am wondering why I am overheating in rush hour DC traffic, so I pull off and pop the hood... what a surprise! It didn't appear to take anything with it on it's way out, although my new power steering belt looks like it's not as tensioned as it used to be... guess that's the one thing it nailed. Should I locktite the next one on in addition to just torquing it down properly?
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Dec 2, 2009 18:17
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I really really wish there was an E34 535i touring 
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Dec 2, 2009 18:18
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pr0craztinazn posted:The clutch fan on my M20B27 magically flew off and took nothing with it. Here I am wondering why I am overheating in rush hour DC traffic, so I pull off and pop the hood... what a surprise! It didn't appear to take anything with it on it's way out, although my new power steering belt looks like it's not as tensioned as it used to be... guess that's the one thing it nailed. Should I locktite the next one on in addition to just torquing it down properly? NO. NO NO NO NO NO. Not if you ever want to get it off again. You want to get it off again at some point. Just be sure to torque it down properly and remember it's reverse threaded.
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Dec 2, 2009 18:18
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Jorsh posted:I really really wish there was an E39 M5 touring in the US Fixed.
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Dec 2, 2009 18:18
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Jorsh posted:NO. NO NO NO NO NO. Not if you ever want to get it off again. You want to get it off again at some point. Just be sure to torque it down properly and remember it's reverse threaded.
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Dec 2, 2009 18:20
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pr0craztinazn posted:The clutch fan on my M20B27 magically flew off and took nothing with it. Here I am wondering why I am overheating in rush hour DC traffic, so I pull off and pop the hood... what a surprise! It didn't appear to take anything with it on it's way out, although my new power steering belt looks like it's not as tensioned as it used to be... guess that's the one thing it nailed. Should I locktite the next one on in addition to just torquing it down properly? 
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Dec 2, 2009 18:31
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Pilsner posted:Source? Are you sure you aren't confusing the 4-speed (4HP22) with the more failure-prone 5-speed 5HP30 gearbox? I've read that the 4-speed is actually quite reliable.
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Dec 2, 2009 20:00
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flublandDrussiavelt posted:it's definitely the 4 speed, my source is a bmw mechanic who's pretty versed in bmws. That's not to say that it WILL fail, but it requires regular fluid changes, which most people neglect to do, which is the main cause of all the failure. Also the m50 does not have more things to fix, in fact it has less since it doesn't require manual valve adjustments like the m30 every 30k or so miles. The m30 is pretty reliable otherwise, but i don't see how its less expensive. That said, if the dude wants a 535i, then by all means, all im doing is giving info. Off the top of my head, the M50 has: - individual coils - camshaft sensor - potentially expensive VANOS, if it's a TÜ model Yeah valve adjustment is a bit annoying, but it only takes an hour or two to do.
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Dec 2, 2009 20:47
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Pilsner posted:Well if you compare the auto to the manual, then yeah I guess it's less reliable, but that's how it always is when you buy auto. The coils on the m50 are great though, you can pick up like a dozen of them at any junkyard and pop them in your car if yours stop working. I've heard some nightmare stories about the vanos, though in my personal experience i've never had it go bad and every car me or friends had also had vanos.
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Dec 2, 2009 21:29
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Well, after a huge bunch of bull poo poo I won't go into here, I finally have my E36 registered and plated. I'll have to post up a thread about it soon. A quick question though, I'm getting a kind of scrubbing noise from the rear occasionally when I back out of a spot, it sounds like it might be coming from the diff. There is no jerkiness or rough feeling, just a scrubbing noise as I'm backing up, and not always. I don't think it's brake related because it does it when it's stationary and I'm starting to let the clutch out. Any ideas on the cause? Maybe it just needs new fluid? What was the site that sold those special diff sockets?
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Dec 2, 2009 22:01
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revmoo posted:What was the site that sold those special diff sockets? gently caress it -- Harbor Freight has them now, a whole set including a stubby 14mm for like $10. I took my angle grinder to it to get it even smaller, but it fit easily right out of the box.
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Dec 3, 2009 00:32
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I bought an S50US engine about 8 months ago and finally got it completely swapped into my '90 e30 today. It's amazingly fun and I strongly recommend this swap to anyone who wants a faster e30.
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Dec 3, 2009 01:34
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peterjmatt posted:I bought an S50US engine about 8 months ago and finally got it completely swapped into my '90 e30 today. It's amazingly fun and I strongly recommend this swap to anyone who wants a faster e30. You can't just say this to us without pictures or some kind of story about how you did it. What gearbox did you mate it up with? Do you notice the extra weight over the front wheels?
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Dec 3, 2009 13:40
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Brock Landers posted:You can't just say this to us without pictures or some kind of story about how you did it. What gearbox did you mate it up with? Do you notice the extra weight over the front wheels? Second, I must hear more about this. My 318IS has 180k on the clock, and I would like to swap a new engine in when the original dies. Its just a matter of a OEM swap or something else.
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Dec 3, 2009 15:44
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I haven't found a writeup on BimmerDIY so I figured I'd try to find some answers here. I have an E36 325i sedan. I just replaced the analog climate control unit because my previous one didn't have the flow selector (feet/dash/defrost). The new one works and the selector does its job, but it seems like whatever baffle inside the dash isn't closing or opening all the way to let the defroster blow hard onto the windscreen. I get a whistling sound and the heat just sort of trickles up. Has anyone seen a writeup or does anyone have any advice for going in there and fixing whatever it is that is jammed up? Any help would be appreciated. Now that this car has taken all my money, I'm trying to get caught up on all the inexpensive fixes that just require some elbow grease.
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Dec 3, 2009 18:41
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So I got an email from the salesguy I bought my 2003 325iT back in 2005, he was letting me know they are getting a 2007 328xiT (manual) in with low miles. Any issues with the 07s? How are the maintenance costs on the x-drive? I think the warranty would be extended out an additional 2 years for most systems because it'll be a certified pre-owned. My 03 is still running great but I would like the AWD, moved to a place that will probably get a bit more snow over the winter (higher elevation). No word on price yet but I'm sure we could work something out. %0.9 financing and they'll knock another .5% off because I've financed with them in the past, can't beat that.
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Dec 3, 2009 21:26
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Is it possible to replace the driveshaft guibo without removing the driveshaft? Mine's getting worn, but hasn't torn or anything yet, and I want to know how difficult it's going to be. It looks like if you support the driveshaft (with a jack or something) and remove the bolts, it should slide right out, but there must be something I'm missing because every write-up I've read says to remove the driveshaft.
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Dec 3, 2009 22:23
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CornHolio posted:Is it possible to replace the driveshaft guibo without removing the driveshaft? From the DIYs I've read you just take off the exhaust and support the driveshaft while replacing the guibo. I had a DIY link but I seem to have lost it.
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Dec 3, 2009 22:27
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Firefox Asexual posted:From the DIYs I've read you just take off the exhaust and support the driveshaft while replacing the guibo. Remove exhaust and heat shields. Support rear of driveshaft where it connects into the diff I believe Undo all those bigass bolts you're looking at
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Dec 3, 2009 22:33
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CornHolio posted:Is it possible to replace the driveshaft guibo without removing the driveshaft? I'm not sure what model you have, but if the driveshaft has a centering pin you will have to remove the exhaust+heatshields and collapse the driveshaft in order to take the guibo out. I'm not even sure if anything other than e30s have the wierdass 2-piece driveshaft with a gigantic nut collar for the splines. If you have one of those and need to collapse the driveshaft you'll either need their special tool or a big pipe wrench. Remember that you want to turn it the opposite way you think.
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Dec 3, 2009 22:55
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