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Go to the dealership. They will have color matched paint, usually in a nail polish bottle for not that much.
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Jun 21, 2024 01:47
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For anything important to you, never cheap out on coatings or adhesives.
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Jun 21, 2024 01:51
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Sashimi posted:The summer/all season/non winter tires on my 2019 Fit are due for replacement. Considering I have winter tires, am I better off going for all seasons or all weathers for the 3 warmer seasons of the year? The point of all-weather tires is that they're actually decent in the winter unlike "all-seasons", so if you aren't going to be using them in the winter why would you want them? They're for people who want to use the same tire year-round or those who want to run summer tires when it's warm but don't get the sort of winters that'd demand a dedicated winter tire. I'd go with a mild summer tire, basically go as high performance as your budget allows without getting in to silly treadwear ratings. A small car on good tires is a wonderful thing. I run Blizzaks on my Fiesta in the winter which lets me run Pilot Sport 4Ses in the summer, and this thing just sticks to the road while barely wearing down the tread.
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Jun 21, 2024 17:20
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Crossclimates are great in the rain, which is important if you live somewhere that gets a lot of rain. They're fine in slushy snow, but I found their limit pretty quickly on an icy hill. If I took my winter tires off in March but then all of the sudden had to go over a snowy mountain pass, I'd be much happier on Crossclimates than on a summer tire. I see your point, but if you live somewhere that gets Weather, Crossclimates are going to be a better bet than a mild summer tire.
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Jun 21, 2024 17:45
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"Sunny" is weather FYI I should probably get new tires tbh. It's been a whole but the mileage on them is lower than they would have been by now. 
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Jun 21, 2024 17:48
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Dick Bastardly posted:I have a black 2022 Honda Civic Hatchback Sport and instead of the paint scratching like you'd expect when someone opens their door into it but rather it like... chips off and reveals like a cream colored under coat or whatever. I dunno, my actual question is: can I buy some black fingernail polish and paint over the chipped part and will that last and fool everyone? Okay weird, my black '12 Accord does the same thing on the rear bumper at least, I thought it was just a poorly sprayed replacement bumper that was done off the books since it wasn't on the carfax. Similar question, is there any kind of touchup for fake chrome trim?
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Jun 21, 2024 18:12
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How big would a body hole be before you should consider using long strand fiberglass to fill it instead of short strand?
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Jun 22, 2024 02:53
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That's really a question best answered by your medical professional
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Jun 22, 2024 16:22
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Beef Eater posted:How big would a body hole be before you should consider using long strand fiberglass to fill it instead of short strand? Whole lot of beef
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Jun 23, 2024 00:54
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My 2011 Civics AC has been blowing only hot air since the latest heat wave started. Im told this is because its out of refrigerant and that I can use some off-the-shelf recharge cans, but IIRC refrigerant isnt supposed to get used up at all.  Is it worth it to try and refill it myself as a temporary fix (if its a DIY job), or should I skip straight to bringing it in?Edit: Leaning to the latter given what Im reading online 
Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Jun 23, 2024 |
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Jun 23, 2024 17:33
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For shits and giggles, what's faster from 0-60 and the 1/4 mile, a Fiesta St or a 7th gen Accord V6 with the 6 speed? There's a huge range of numbers out there.
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Jun 23, 2024 17:43
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Pollyanna posted:My 2011 Civics AC has been blowing only hot air since the latest heat wave started. Im told this is because its out of refrigerant and that I can use some off-the-shelf recharge cans, but IIRC refrigerant isnt supposed to get used up at all. Refrigerant only needs to be replaced if theres a leak. In an emergency, you could fill it with one of the autoparts store charge cans. That may last an hour or a week or two. Or somewhere in between. You're best off taking it to a shop as the fix will be more permanent. Or at least until another O-ring decides to leak or something.
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Jun 23, 2024 17:50
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DildenAnders posted:For shits and giggles, what's faster from 0-60 and the 1/4 mile, a Fiesta St or a 7th gen Accord V6 with the 6 speed? There's a huge range of numbers out there. Per Car and Driver; the Fiesta. Youve gotta use the same source if you want to compare those numbers. 0-60 times are incredibly subjective and a huge can of worms, so you cant use one sources numbers to compare vs another source. FWIW the fiestas numbers are slow because of the gearing. Theres no way to hit 60 without shifting to third, adding a bunch of time to the stat. Its a very quick car, but that stat specifically makes it seem slower than it is.
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Jun 23, 2024 19:03
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Pollyanna posted:My 2011 Civic’s AC has been blowing only hot air since the latest heat wave started. I’m told this is because it’s out of refrigerant and that I can use some off-the-shelf recharge cans, but IIRC refrigerant isn’t supposed to get used up at all. We do have an AC thread here in AI. I'm on mobile, otherwise I'd post a link. However, it really depends on the size of your leak and where it is. God help you if it's in the dash. You'd be looking at hundreds if not a grand in labor to replace a $50 part.
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Jun 23, 2024 19:19
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2011 is getting towards the age where it may just need a recharge. Auto AC systems use a barrier hose system that doesn't prevent leakage, it just leaks it as slowly as possible. So after 5-10 years it may just need a recharge. But you really should get it checked and filled by someone who knows what they're doing - this includes you if you learn how to do it yourself, it's really not hard once you know the basics. DO NOT rely on the gauge on those silly rear end recharge kits at the parts store, it literally is meaningless, and never buy refrigerant that has leakstop included in it, it'll gently caress your system up.
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Jun 23, 2024 20:31
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Per Car and Driver; the Fiesta. Youve gotta use the same source if you want to compare those numbers. 0-60 times are incredibly subjective and a huge can of worms, so you cant use one sources numbers to compare vs another source. Yep. Also consider that most magazine-published 0-60 times are conditions that range from somewhat to entirely unrealistic for "the real world" - most of them do their tests on a prepped track with much higher traction, and with the first foot of rollout ignored. Now, this doesn't mean that their relative metrics comparing one car to another are bad. It just means that if you see a magazine reporting a 0-60 of 4.9 seconds, that's not a number you're ever likely to recreate on the street, but that's the same for every other car they test.
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Jun 24, 2024 05:36
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Beef Eater posted:How big would a body hole be before you should consider using long strand fiberglass to fill it instead of short strand? opengl posted:That's really a question best answered by your medical professional Inner Light posted:Whole lot of beef Anyone got a real answer for this? The hole I'm repairing is about 18 inches by 2-3 inches. I'm not sure if I should use short strand or long strand fiberglass filler. Edit: Bondo Hair says 1/2 inch for short strand and 1 inch for long strand, talking about open holes. I'm gonna have to use a body patch backing anyway so maybe it doesn't matter. But I'm doing this on a car I love and I don't have any experience with body repair, so I wanna make completely sure everything goes right. Beef Eater fucked around with this message at 11:09 on Jun 24, 2024 |
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Jun 24, 2024 10:58
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Post pics and details about the car and where the hole is.
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Jun 24, 2024 11:57
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Beef Eater posted:Anyone got a real answer for this? The hole I'm repairing is about 18 inches by 2-3 inches. I'm not sure if I should use short strand or long strand fiberglass filler. 18 x 3 inches and it's an actual hole? That's welding time imo.
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Jun 24, 2024 16:51
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honda whisperer posted:Post pics and details about the car and where the hole is. yeah, post hole post. hole.
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Jun 24, 2024 17:02
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That sounds like a rusted rocker or door skin to me and if you actually want it to look good and last, using fiberglass body filler is absolutely the wrong way to go. Unfortunately if I'm right you'll want to cut all the rust out - it goes much farther than you think every time - and patch it with fresh metal and a welder, then use something like Eastwood internal chassis coat to paint the inaccessible inside of the patch and repaint the outside. It's... Not easy.
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Jun 24, 2024 20:04
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where's kevbarlas
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Jun 24, 2024 20:19
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Will a DIY fix to a throttle position sensor wire on a 1990 car fail smog test visual inspection? My mom's 1990 E34 got a rat under the hood, that ate some wires. I fixed it, there's no CEL, but it's obvious if you look. [edit] California, of course
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Jun 24, 2024 22:07
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Visual inspections are meant to see that the emissions equipment required on the car is still present. Repaired wiring wouldn't be any cause for concern.
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Jun 24, 2024 22:18
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honda whisperer posted:Post pics and details about the car and where the hole is. I don't have any pics but it's a rust out on one of the rocker panels. Olympic Mathlete posted:18 x 3 inches and it's an actual hole? That's welding time imo. kastein posted:That sounds like a rusted rocker or door skin to me and if you actually want it to look good and last, using fiberglass body filler is absolutely the wrong way to go. Unfortunately if I'm right you'll want to cut all the rust out - it goes much farther than you think every time - and patch it with fresh metal and a welder, then use something like Eastwood internal chassis coat to paint the inaccessible inside of the patch and repaint the outside. I don't know how to weld or have the equipment, and don't have any friends who fit the bill either, so this is how I've got to do it. That Eastwood internal is a good idea though, I was just gonna use rust reformer.
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Jun 24, 2024 22:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:Visual inspections are meant to see that the emissions equipment required on the car is still present. Repaired wiring wouldn't be any cause for concern. I know the purpose but CA smog is kind of like dealing with the TSA. The law, in effect, is whatever happens at the moment of truth, you know?
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Jun 24, 2024 22:26
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This might be too model-specific, but wondering if any Gen2 Prius owners have experienced this: My 2006 Prius with 207k miles just died yesterday without warning: no CEL, no overheating, it just turned off as I was pulling away from a stop in my neighbourhood. Previously it was owned by a Toyota specialist as a courtesy car so had a fairly thorough service done ~2 years ago including a brand new OEM Toyota hybrid battery. I replaced the 12V battery a few months ago at the Toyota dealership (think a dome light was left on). Aside from having to do the little reset dance if the combonation meter doesn't come on maybe once a month, it's been pretty reliable the 9 months I've owned it. Hot day yesterday (one of many) when the car just shut off without warning and wouldn't come back on. I couldn't even put it into neutral to push it (fortunately wasn't too in the way of traffic), which is apparently A Thing, thanks Toyota engineers. I tried disconnecting the connectors to the 12V battery and waiting a few minutes before reconnecting them to reset the computer but no luck. I did some roadside Googling and guessed it might be inverter pump; I replaced the AM2 fuse with the spare and got the car to turn back on, but the replacement fuse also blew in about 10 seconds (confirmed with multimeter I have on hand). Got it towed the 3 minutes home, and bought another handful of fuses at Discount Auto Parts so I could at least roll the windows back up. I just got off the phone with Toyota and they said the coolant pump recall was done in 2011, probably about 100k miles ago. The replacement fuse doesn't seem to hold long enough for my OBDII scanner app to fully initialise/scan everything, but I did get a P3102 code ( just now when I tried it. Is this just from disconnecting the battery recently? The 12V stuff all works; lights, horn, etc. I can hear what I think is the inverter pump doing its little noise after the car shuts off. All signs seem to point to inverter coolant pump, but the P3102 code is a bit of wrinkle. Have copied the codes I was able to get below: P3102 [0x3102] Status: Confirmed B2799 [0xA799] Immobiliser Fault; Engine Immobiliser System Malfunction Status: Confirmed Engine control unit #1 No DTC found. Hybrid engine systemHybrid engine system DTCs: 2 P3102 [0x3102] Status: Confirmed B2799 [0xA799] Immobiliser Fault; Engine Immobiliser System Malfunction Status: Confirmed edit: I disconnected the inverter pump using the little connector above and to the left of the fuse box, and the car now turns on and stays on. I cleared the codes, turned it off, and no more red triangle of death or codes again after scanning. So seems like it most likely is a short in the inverter pump causing my problems. Wish I'd known that yesterday, would have saved me 45 minutes waiting on the tow in 95F heat. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jun 24, 2024 |
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Jun 24, 2024 22:39
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Leperflesh posted:where's kevbarlas Oh poo poo, the legend is referenced
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Jun 24, 2024 22:43
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AnnoyBot posted:I know the purpose but CA smog is kind of like dealing with the TSA. The law, in effect, is whatever happens at the moment of truth, you know? CA is strict but unless your repair looks specifically like it was done to disable something, I don't see how they could have any reasoning to flag it for further inspection. It's wiring. I'm sure it's not the first nor the last time a car has come through with repaired wiring damage. If you're really paranoid about it, wrap it in whatever type of wiring loom best matches the OEM style.
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Jun 24, 2024 22:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:CA is strict but unless your repair looks specifically like it was done to disable something, I don't see how they could have any reasoning to flag it for further inspection. It's wiring. I'm sure it's not the first nor the last time a car has come through with repaired wiring damage. If it's generally regarded as OK then I'll treat it as such. Thanks!
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Jun 24, 2024 22:58
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Oh poo poo, the legend is referenced gently caress yeah let's hear from the Scot
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Jun 25, 2024 00:20
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AnnoyBot posted:If it's generally regarded as OK then I'll treat it as such. Thanks! Shop said the issue would auto fail. Luckily before payment.
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Jun 25, 2024 00:26
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AnnoyBot posted:If it's generally regarded as OK then I'll treat it as such. Thanks! Here's the complete inspection manual. The visual inspection is of the emissions equipment, and also the instrument cluster is checked for check engine lights etc. They also plug into the ODB-II system and check for any codes that have been set. There is no inspection of the vehicle's wiring. If you have a TPS error code still stored, that could be an issue, but do not try to clear all your codes right before going to the inspection or you'll fail, it has to have run for a while without a clear in order to pass the general check. e. ask the technician which inspection point they are failing you on a wiring repair. Or are you saying some mechanic claimed you'd fail on a wiring repair? Because that's BS.
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Jun 25, 2024 00:30
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Leperflesh posted:Here's the complete inspection manual. The visual inspection is of the emissions equipment, and also the instrument cluster is checked for check engine lights etc. They also plug into the ODB-II system and check for any codes that have been set. My brother is handling this; I'm trying to help him through it. So the shop knew the car was 1990, which is pre-OBDII of course. The tech actually looked at it and said the repair would fail the test. So I'm going to give my guy (a test only shop) a call and see if he has a different take. There should be no saved codes, it hasn't had a CEL in years, if ever.
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Jun 25, 2024 00:42
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Yeah, something isn't adding up. Resetting / scanning codes isn't even a thing on that car, 1990 predates OBD2 so the closest the emissions gets to the computer is "if there's a money light, is it on".
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Jun 25, 2024 00:44
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While it's not a dealer, this might be a "go away, we don't do vintage" diagnosis.
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Jun 25, 2024 01:05
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Just don't tell them about the wiring fix. No codes no problem.
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Jun 25, 2024 01:09
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Follow-up question: are Toyota OEM oil/water pumps (in this case inverter coolant pump on a Gen 2 Prius) Aisin? I'm finding some things on forums saying yes, but nothing that looks definitive, and one person claiming it was a Denso, which muddied the waters enough for me to want to ask here. I ask because the Aisin pump is $110 on Amazon*, and the Toyota dealer quoted me $220. My experience is pretty small but out of 4 things I've asked for quotes on before, that's the only time it's come up more expensive; dealer's actually been cheaper than Amazon, Discount Auto Parts, etc on the other 3. *I'm not considering any of the $25 China ones, I definitely don't want this thing to fail again. edit: would a spring clip (like used in woodworking) work for clamping the coolant hoses shut while I swap the pump, or is there another type of clamp that can be repurposed? Have access to a wide variety thanks to Tool Library membership, but their automotive specific section is pretty woeful. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jun 25, 2024 |
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Jun 25, 2024 02:58
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I would not buy any critical component off Amazon, proper name brand or not. They have a massive counterfeiting problem.
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Jun 25, 2024 04:22
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honda whisperer posted:I would not buy any critical component off Amazon, proper name brand or not. They have a massive counterfeiting problem. Its direct from the Aisin storefront on Amazon, I would otherwise be similarly leery.
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Jun 25, 2024 04:42
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