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A forums member requested that I put together a video of me painting something. That endeavor failed for various reasons so as the closest substitute I made this photo tutorial for Lanyssa Ryssyll from Privateer Press: The base coated model. She was put on a simple base of cork and gravel then primed white. The colors used are: Cloak: Citadel Hormagaunt Purple Green: P3 Cryx Bane Base Brown: P3 Bloodtracker Brown Metallic: Citadel Runelord Brass Flesh: P3 Frostbite mixed with a small amount of Skorne Red and Exile Blue. Hair: P3 Thamar Black First I applied some washes. The cloak was washed with Vallejo Black Grey, Water, and a dab of floor polish to break up the surface tension and allow it to flow into the crevasses better. For the leather and metallics I used Citadel Nuln Oil. Finally, the skin was washed with a mixture of Skorne Red and Exile Blue, pushed towards the crevasses. Polish was not added to this wash as I wanted it to shade the skin as well.  After the wash had dried the base was painted with P3 Bastion Grey for the rocks and Gun Corps Brown for the dirt. At this point I highlighted the skin with the base color, smoothing the highlight with two brush blending. A final highlight of pure Frostbite was applied. The eyes were painted as well with P3 Trollblood Highlight then dotted with Menoth White Highlight. The rocks were then washed with Nuln Oil and the dirt washed with a mixture of P3 Brown Ink and Umbral Umber, thinned with water. While waiting for the base to dry completely I highlighted the cloak by lightly drybrushing it with Hormagaunt Purple mixed with Menoth White Highlight. The metal received a highlight of the base color, Runelord Brass, then a fine highlight of Runelord Brass mixed with Citadel Mithril Silver. Once the wash on the base had dried completely the dirt was highlighted with a heavy drybrush of P3 Rucksack tan then a light drybrush of Jack Bone. The rock was done similarly with a drybrush of Trollblood Highlight then Menoth White Base.  Next the hair was highlighted by gently running the side of a brush containing P3 Coal Black along the bottom of the strands and top of the head. This highlight was exaggerated with the same technique using Coal Black and Frostbite. The brown was highlighted with Bloodtracker Brown lightened with Rucksack Tan and the Green with Cryx Bane Base lightened with Menoth White Highlight. For each color a heavy highlight was applied with a mixture of 80:20 base color:highlight, smoothing out the edges with two brush blending. A final highlight was made with a 50:50 mix of base color:highlight, hitting only the edges and highest parts of each surface.  After varnishing I put down a small amount of snow, a mixture of woodland scenics snow and white glue. 
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Aug 18, 2014 05:07
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dichloroisocyanuric posted:I'm slowly working on the rest of the squad, trying to knock them out piece-by-piece. I just really liked this model so I went ahead with it. They're gonna share the same color scheme. I gotta finish some tiny tiny things up on him (buttons, teeth) but my small brush split like hell on me, so I'm going to pick up some nice brushes tomorrow and work on the other guys for now. Get some brush soap! The Master's Brush Cleaner should help you keep the points sharp, and I've even saved a few really bad frizzy brushes with it. Chaos cultist guy looks good. I should really paint mine up.
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Aug 18, 2014 06:26
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The Impaler posted:Get some brush soap! The Master's Brush Cleaner should help you keep the points sharp, and I've even saved a few really bad frizzy brushes with it. I actually have some, and was using it, but the brush still split (it's a GW brush. it came with some paints.) Am I using it poorly, and what can I do to use it to recover brushes? For reference, no other brushes that I have have split, and this brush has probably seen the least use. edit: and thanks! and also that top post on this page is magnificent opulent fountain fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 06:52
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Red Shoe posted:A forums member requested that I put together a video of me painting something. That endeavor failed for various reasons so as the closest substitute I made this photo tutorial for Lanyssa Ryssyll from Privateer Press: This is great man, thanks!
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Aug 18, 2014 07:04
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dichloroisocyanuric posted:I actually have some, and was using it, but the brush still split (it's a GW brush. it came with some paints.) Am I using it poorly, and what can I do to use it to recover brushes? Sometimes you have to repeat the lather phase several times to get some gunks out near the ferrule. Once you stop seeing a shade of colour come out on the lather, or little bits of dry paint, then theres not much more to clean really. GW brushes have always had (in my opinion) pretty sub standard longevity, but as starter brushes for learning techniques and brush control- are ok. A few tips for promoting brush long life: - don't get paint more than halfway up the bristles since if it reaches the ferrule (metal bit) it'll be a lot harder to clean out if it dries up - twirl your brush to a point (on palette/ tile) after loading with paint - rinse brush frequently, and do not leave tip down in water - have a dedicated drybrush (don't spend $15-20 on an awesome size 1 brush that you'll use mainly to drybrush metal) Basically, if you cannot get a point on your brush anymore, then use them as undercoat/ basecoat/ wash/ drybrushes where detail doesn't matter a lot. And get a few Windsor & Newton or other quality brushes as recommended by other goons for detail work. Edit: I really should contribute more painted stuff to this thread. The Impaler fucked around with this message at 07:51 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 07:47
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Red Shoe posted:Awesome tutorial I love tutorials and this is ace man. More goons need to do this stuff!
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Aug 18, 2014 07:54
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LumberingTroll posted:Hell yes, finally got enough painted and the stars aligned so that a friend and I can get together today to play a game of Bolt Action! That is, hands down, the most creative way to represent a Death Strike I have ever seen in a game! But, you're not playing 40k?
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Aug 18, 2014 18:10
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LumberingTroll posted:Hell yes, finally got enough painted and the stars aligned so that a friend and I can get together today to play a game of Bolt Action! Odd question somewhat, how well would that Sherman compare size-wise to a Leman Russ? Someone suggested me the Bolt-Action models as count-as Russes in the 40k thread but I'm uncertain about the size differences.
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Aug 18, 2014 18:41
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WhiteOutMouse posted:The face looks a little rough this close but the highlights are not too bad in person. I was impressed with her pupils.   The face is fine - people (myself included) stress about how a model looks three inches from our face when the drat thing is going to be seen from an average of 3 feet away. dichloroisocyanuric posted:Here is my second dude, the leader of the chaos cultists: berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 19:13
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Cooked Auto posted:Odd question somewhat, how well would that Sherman compare size-wise to a Leman Russ? Someone suggested me the Bolt-Action models as count-as Russes in the 40k thread but I'm uncertain about the size differences. That is actually a 1/48 scale sherman, I would think its size is fairly comparable. Post 9-11 User posted:That is, hands down, the most creative way to represent a Death Strike I have ever seen in a game! But, you're not playing 40k? That would be Loki, he is an rear end in a top hat. And no, no 40k, I prefer not to give GW any money.
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Aug 18, 2014 20:22
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Finally found my brushes after moving house back in June and got the painting table set back up. Hopefully finish this soon. 
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Aug 18, 2014 20:56
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Man, I wish I could paint like you, serious gaylord. That head is amazing on its own.
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Aug 18, 2014 21:13
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Hah, that looks incredible! The details in the face and the claw are really nice.
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Aug 18, 2014 22:42
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Working on my first army(Ultramarines) and the online painting tutorials on youtube and such have been a godsend. I've been going off a few channels since they have pretty comprehensive and easy to follow painting tutorials for Ultramarines. I'm pretty happy with my results so far having painted 3 tactical Marine squads, and a terminator squad. That being said I am moving on to my HQ Librarian. I had planned on using the following tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtmqojKrLvE Now this isn't the first one I've followed where I don't have the exact paints to what the creator is using, and normally I don't get to hung up on using a slightly different shade of blue/red/whatever, but I am not sure if anything I have in my range is a suitable replacement for Zandri Dust in this example. I have been going White Scar White for my Marine tabards so far, but I am not sure if that would look out of place on this particular model. Might anyone have any recommendations on what else they might use to paint the tabard on this model? Some colors I currently own are: White Scar White, Ulthuan Grey, Rhinox Hide, Skrag Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, and Kislev Flesh. I've even considered just going with something like completely different such as painting it Warpstone Glow, but I am hesitant to jump in and I find out I hate the way it looks, especially on a model where the tabard/robe is so prominent.
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Aug 18, 2014 23:08
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Finished the wraithseer, I was very tempted to strip it clean since the blue did NOT look good at all in my mind. Airbrushed the blue base, sponged on the mottled effect, brushed on the old bone stuff, dry/wet depending on how new/old the paint was. And I finally finished dotting the gems in black, and painting all their little loincloths.           That knight is amazing if your intent is to "break the immersion~" of your opponent. If not and it's done out of actual love for that...well, least it's an easy way to see what player in the store you want to avoid.
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Aug 18, 2014 23:11
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VolatileSky posted:That knight is amazing if your intent is to "break the immersion~" of your opponent. If not and it's done out of actual love for that...well, least it's an easy way to see what player in the store you want to avoid. ed:  Ah, you meant that pony knight, I thought it was about your Eldar wraithlord(?). Shows how long I haven't played 40K 
Pierzak fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 23:19
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LumberingTroll posted:That is actually a 1/48 scale sherman, I would think its size is fairly comparable. Oh I see. Thing is I was kinda looking for some easily assembled tanks that could bolster my IG tank list as count-as Russes and variants but I want to stay away from overly fiddly kits as not drive myself insane when I get a couple of them.
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Aug 18, 2014 23:27
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serious gaylord posted:Finally found my brushes after moving house back in June and got the painting table set back up. Hopefully finish this soon. Looks rad but how come you're doing him a 2nd time?
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Aug 18, 2014 23:28
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VolatileSky posted:Finished the wraithseer, I was very tempted to strip it clean since the blue did NOT look good at all in my mind. Airbrushed the blue base, sponged on the mottled effect, brushed on the old bone stuff, dry/wet depending on how new/old the paint was. I really like your painting style. Those walkers look weathered and old, but are still clean and snappy. When I look at the texture and color choice it reminds me of old driftwood which is an awesome reaction to have while looking at a model. loving ace and original man. Love it.
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Aug 19, 2014 00:02
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Skarsnik posted:Looks rad but how come you're doing him a 2nd time? Commission.
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Aug 19, 2014 00:14
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Pierzak posted:
Yah sorry, I saw that further down as I was copy/pasting in all the html for my pictures, I burst out laughing then thought, wait, what if they're serious? And thanks everyone! I wasn't sure how well the seer would be received, it was this close to getting dumped in simple green.
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Aug 19, 2014 02:44
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Cooked Auto posted:Oh I see. That is a corgie die-cast, no assembly required, was even pre-painted.
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Aug 19, 2014 05:14
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I'm starting a Dark Elves army for Warhammer and I'd like to know what's the best skin tone for them. I don't want to use grey drow-like skin, but I don't know what kind of combination I should use to get a pale skin. Any ideas?
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Aug 19, 2014 05:30
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radlum posted:I'm starting a Dark Elves army for Warhammer and I'd like to know what's the best skin tone for them. I don't want to use grey drow-like skin, but I don't know what kind of combination I should use to get a pale skin. Any ideas? Just throwing out this idea, but I'm a fan of Dark Elves (and Drow) having purple skin. If I was trying to go for a pale skin tone for them, I'd probably do something like Ushabti Bone with a thin purple wash, and then highlighted with Pallid Wych Flesh. That's what I'm planning for my Dark Eldar, although I don't quite know how it's going to end up looking.
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Aug 19, 2014 05:50
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dichloroisocyanuric posted:Just throwing out this idea, but I'm a fan of Dark Elves (and Drow) having purple skin. If I was trying to go for a pale skin tone for them, I'd probably do something like Ushabti Bone with a thin purple wash, and then highlighted with Pallid Wych Flesh. That's what I'm planning for my Dark Eldar, although I don't quite know how it's going to end up looking. Painting Clinic has a bunch of tutorials for this kind of skin. It looks pretty good.
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Aug 19, 2014 05:54
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radlum posted:I'm starting a Dark Elves army for Warhammer and I'd like to know what's the best skin tone for them. I don't want to use grey drow-like skin, but I don't know what kind of combination I should use to get a pale skin. Any ideas? Dheneb stone foundation, purple wash, Menoth White Highlight layer works well for me. Pretty much this: http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com.au/2011/01/painting-dark-eldar-skin-tones.html
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Aug 19, 2014 06:00
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radlum posted:I'm starting a Dark Elves army for Warhammer and I'd like to know what's the best skin tone for them. I don't want to use grey drow-like skin, but I don't know what kind of combination I should use to get a pale skin. Any ideas? http://www.thewarstore.com/product60185.html + a wash of dark brown mixed with violet 3:1
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Aug 19, 2014 06:26
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Had school today but I did start some work on Logan Grimnar   
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Aug 19, 2014 08:25
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LumberingTroll posted:That is a corgie die-cast, no assembly required, was even pre-painted. The Corgi stuff is usually 1:50, which probably explains why it looks better than so many 1:48 tanks. 28mm is closest to 1:56, but you'll always see people saying that 1:48 is a good match. And I guess it is if you want GIANT TANKS, but otherwise it's pretty jarring.
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Aug 19, 2014 11:54
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moths posted:The Corgi stuff is usually 1:50, which probably explains why it looks better than so many 1:48 tanks. I've barely seen any model kits and such be available in 1:56 to be honest. Speaking of which I've seen comments that 1:35 is the scale to go in for count-as vehicles as well. But in that case I reckon they get kinda tiny in comparison.
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Aug 19, 2014 12:41
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The number of 1/56 kits has exploded recently! Warlord Games, Blitzkrieg Miniatures, and Italiari have all entered the 1/56 market, and there are new lines Kickstarting frequently. You can still use 1:50 or even 1:48 (I'd stay clear of 1:35) but for most common stuff there's no reason to.
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Aug 19, 2014 14:16
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I've got most of my starter models assembled and a halfway-decent set of brushes per suggestions in this thread. I don't have any paints yet. Will someone show me what to buy? I have a budget of $100.
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Aug 19, 2014 14:40
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moths posted:And I guess it is if you want GIANT TANKS, but otherwise it's pretty jarring. Yep, they are larger than they should be, but I only had German stuff in 28mm, so we used his Corgi stuff, so that I didn't have a size advantage. I prefer to use the correct scale myself, its really hid to get cover for an oversized tank. moths posted:The number of 1/56 kits has exploded recently! Warlord Games, Blitzkrieg Miniatures, and Italiari have all entered the 1/56 market, and there are new lines Kickstarting frequently. There is also Berlin or Bust, they have a lot of vehicles, but I would avoid them, their scale is closer to 25mm, and it makes for smaller vehicles than they should be.
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Aug 19, 2014 14:57
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moths posted:The number of 1/56 kits has exploded recently! Warlord Games, Blitzkrieg Miniatures, and Italiari have all entered the 1/56 market, and there are new lines Kickstarting frequently. Wasn't aware of that actually. Guess I'll look into that for decent count-as vehicles then. Edit: Oh, Bolt Action vehicles is apparently 1/56 even by the looks of it. Edit 2: Thanks for the Blitzkrieg Miniatures tip btw, probably end up buying at least something from them as their stuff looks really good and not too expensive either. Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Aug 19, 2014 |
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Aug 19, 2014 15:12
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radlum posted:I'm starting a Dark Elves army for Warhammer and I'd like to know what's the best skin tone for them. I don't want to use grey drow-like skin, but I don't know what kind of combination I should use to get a pale skin. Any ideas? Definitely use gr- oh. Well, I use a French grey-blue on my Dark Eldar, for Dark Elves you could consider the same. They're zany enough to pull of things like primary color white skin, crystalline skin, whatever. Here's one of my Grots that I just pulled out of storage, was posted in one of the OATS threads a few years back: 
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Aug 19, 2014 17:47
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Cooked Auto posted:Wasn't aware of that actually. Guess I'll look into that for decent count-as vehicles then. 1/48 kits goes well with 28mm miniatures, and there's a growing number of them out there. I just built and painted some for Chain of Command:  Left one is Tamiya, right one is ICM. I might use 1:35 if I was going to kitbash something for 40K or similar, actually sized stuff looks weird next to those heroic proportioned minis. A KV-2 might be ridiculous enough to fit as a Leman Russ: http://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/shop/hobby-boss-tank-84816-p-9952.html lilljonas fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Aug 19, 2014 |
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Aug 19, 2014 18:20
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Helmholz posted:I've got most of my starter models assembled and a halfway-decent set of brushes per suggestions in this thread. I don't have any paints yet. Will someone show me what to buy? I have a budget of $100. Really depends on what you are painting to be honest, but Vallejo Game Colors paints are popular. I also use Vallejo Model Colors and some P3 as well. Check out your FLGS see what they carry, and if you can't find what you want there then check out The Warstore to fill out your selection. 100 bux is going to get you a really good selection of paints. Make sure and get at least a sepia wash for best results.
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Aug 19, 2014 18:43
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lilljonas posted:1/48 kits goes well with 28mm miniatures, and there's a growing number of them out there. I just built and painted some for Chain of Command: Yeah that's a comment I've seen time and time again while looking for count-as things and it comes with the caveat that it varies from model to model. Some things look fine, others don't. Same thing with 1/35 as some vehicles get as large as a baneblade in size while other fit more or less. Rather avoid huge amounts kitbashing as I don't have the stuff for it and rather just grab something easily assembled and deck it out with some aquilas or the few bits I do have spare. That I don't wanna drive myself insane with building overly fiddly model kits as well.
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Aug 19, 2014 18:44
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Picked up some Infinity models, which are substantially fiddlier than the Citadel models I'm used to. It's weird to be working with pewter again, but thankfully the bits are small enough that they won't have an issue with weight tearing them apart. I'm not looking forward to pinning if I get some of the biggest models. Painted up a Fusilier as a test model for my PanO color scheme: 
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Aug 19, 2014 19:45
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lilljonas posted:
Whats the right one called? Or do you have a link?
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Aug 19, 2014 21:27
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