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I'm using a R7000 as well, but haven't tried using OpenVPN, or running Shibby tomato on it. Can we do a router list for AC series? What are the cheaper budget AC routers? Or is it like the old one - get a WHRG54 or NT-66? BUY R7000.
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Nov 13, 2014 15:51
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LorneReams posted:I can second this. I had some minor issues, but the latest firmware solved most of the VPN problems I was having. Thirded. I didn't even install any fancy firmware and I'm quite happy with it.
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Nov 13, 2014 18:14
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LorneReams posted:I can second this. I had some minor issues, but the latest firmware solved most of the VPN problems I was having. Yeah for some reason (and so far), the people working on the n7000 from netgear seem to actually care about putting together good firmware. Let's just hope that the trend continues.
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Nov 13, 2014 23:18
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R7000 v AC68U - are these units both comparable in terms of performance and stability?
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Nov 13, 2014 23:37
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I have a home that is just shy of 2000 sq ft in size (rectangle shaped, sort of like this: [======]), with my office and networking gear in the lower left corner of that example. I am looking at purchasing the following to handle LAN duties instead of my 2Wire 3801HGV-B... 1x EdgeRouter 1x UAP-LR access point (maybe two?) I have a DLink 16port gigabit dumb switch to handle all the hardwired clients, but Wifi is where I am afraid I may still have problems On my Cat6 network, I have: 1 TeraStation NAS (always on) 1 Torrent/FTP box (always on) 1 Hometheater PC 1 ESXI/Windows MCSE Lab host with dual NICs 2 PC desktop gaming systems whatever client shitbox I am working on On Wifi, I have 2 Windows laptops (always on) 1 Work laptop 2 Android personal use cell phones (always on) 7 PerkTV farm phones (always on) 2 iPads 1 color multifunction printer whatever client shitbox I am working on and of course, any guests that come by to visit will have their cell phones and/or laptops, too. I do not need printer sharing, USB drive sharing, or FTP services, and 802.11b/g/n 2.4Ghz Wifi has been fine thus far, so I was hoping that the Edgerouter and AP combo would perform better than an all in one router solution. Can the Ubiquity gear handle all this without choking? Or should I just buy one of the $200 all in one routers instead?
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Nov 14, 2014 00:35
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Quick notes on that.. you don't want the UAP-LR. Just because it can throw a signal far doesn't mean your client devices will be able to connect back. Get 2x UAPs instead and put one at each end of the house. Also, have you looked into how the EdgeRouter setup is handled? If not, do so to a good degree before you buy one.
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Nov 14, 2014 00:43
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I previously have a edge router/ unifi ap pro set up in my house and it was alright. But is there a reason why you want to opt for n wireless instead of ac? Zero hand off was so so when it comes to Skype calls. Since it's only 2 ap you don't really need centralized ap management. But I do think captive portal, and guest access are nice features. Nowadays the R7000 make decent firmware for other features (except captive portals). I'm looking into implementing radius authentication and setting up my own captive portals.
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Nov 14, 2014 03:11
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caberham posted:is there a reason why you want to opt for n wireless instead of ac? Mostly because it's worked fine in the house so far, while the RT-N66U I tried out for a week had serious problems maintaining connections throughout the house on the 5Ghz radio. caberham posted:But I do think captive portal, and guest access are nice features. Well yeah, but this is all in my house. I hadn't really given any thought to using an access portal and guest wireless. caberham posted:Nowadays the R7000 make decent firmware for other features (except captive portals). I'm looking into implementing radius authentication and setting up my own captive portals. That's kinda where I was going at the end there - I'm not 100% set on the Ubiquity gear, I just need stability with all the load I'll be tossing on the LAN. If a newer AC router is going to provide better connectivity for the same money, I'm certainly open to it - I just don't need or want half the stuff they come with.
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Nov 14, 2014 04:05
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I've had a WRT54GS for years, probably one of the best pieces of computer hardware I've ever owned. I upgraded to faster internet (15 to 50bmps) and it turns out that it can only handle about ~40mbps before it maxes out. What's the least expensive "good" incremental upgrade from here that supports DDWRT? I don't do anything special on my router so I suppose DDWRT isn't REQUIRED, but I put it on as it was able to, why not? Just hoping I don't have to spend $200 so I can squeeze out a few more megabits from my cable modem. 
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Nov 14, 2014 07:23
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The voodoo magic answer is Edge Router Lite. No wifi functions but it's blazingly fast but requires a lost weekend tinkering with settings. Less than $100
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Nov 14, 2014 07:39
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Ha and here I was thinking about grabbing some rosewill N router. I'll have to check around. thanks!
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Nov 14, 2014 07:43
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What am I losing from choosing an Asus RT-N56U over an Asus RT-N66U, and if I'm losing anything, is the stuff I'm losing worth 40$? (~90$ compared to ~130$)
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Nov 14, 2014 09:47
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Hi folks, I've recently run into a problem with my housing situation that's going to affect my home network. Basically, I'm currently renting out a camper on some of my family's land so I can attend college online--right now I'm right next to the house, they just run a line right to my computer, but due to some health inspector problems, they're going to have to move the camper, it's going to be moved roughly 250 feet away, it's too long a distance to bury that much wire, so we're considering going wireless. It's a rural area, too, so there's going to be some trees between me and the house. I have admittedly no experience in building a wifi network, so I thought I'd ask here. There's going to be a carport between the house and the camper so I'm thinking of putting a wifi output or booster or whatever it's called under there, and a booster inside the camper for good measure. What should I get for this? Any recommended wifi output/booster/whatever you call it?
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Nov 14, 2014 22:20
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BenRGamer posted:Hi folks, I've recently run into a problem with my housing situation that's going to affect my home network. You should take a look at getting two nanoStations from Ubiquiti. They are directional point-to-point wireless links that should allow you to connect the network from the house out to the trailer. Ideally there's a window in the house that points in the direction of the camper where you'd mount one of the devices and then you'd mount the other in your camper pointed back at the house. They work best when there's clear line of sight but a few trees should still be OK. They also make an AirGateway device that can be attached to the one in your camper which will provide a WiFi signal.
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Nov 14, 2014 23:20
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You could run that much wire, it'll go to 100m. If that ends up seeming easier.
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Nov 15, 2014 00:06
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Krailor posted:You should take a look at getting two nanoStations from Ubiquiti. They are directional point-to-point wireless links that should allow you to connect the network from the house out to the trailer. Ideally there's a window in the house that points in the direction of the camper where you'd mount one of the devices and then you'd mount the other in your camper pointed back at the house. They work best when there's clear line of sight but a few trees should still be OK. They also make an AirGateway device that can be attached to the one in your camper which will provide a WiFi signal. That looks like it'd work perfectly, thanks. Any one of those should I look at in particular if I like to game online? And, will I need a wifi adapter for my PC, or can I just hook up an ethernet cable to my computer from the nanostation thing? Dogen posted:You could run that much wire, it'll go to 100m. If that ends up seeming easier. I was considering that, but we'd have to buy an outside capable wire and bury it, much of it under a gravel drive way, I don't think they'd be up for that.
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Nov 15, 2014 00:14
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Cross posting this here. I've got some serious delay and packet loss going on within my own lan. http://pastebin.com/7jqY9YaW https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B57W-Dq1KiiXSHJ6MnpsQ1REb0k/view?usp=sharing This is a wireshark of my connection during lovely times. Filter it down to ICMP if you want. Wired, router is a WRT160N, cables less than 100 meters long, 6 people share it (wan connection is 25mbit, router capable of 60). What do I do to either fix this or troubleshoot further? Methanar fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Nov 18, 2014 |
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Nov 15, 2014 01:04
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BenRGamer posted:Hi folks, I've recently run into a problem with my housing situation that's going to affect my home network. Regardless of route, please post your success story!
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Nov 15, 2014 02:49
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BenRGamer posted:That looks like it'd work perfectly, thanks. Any one of those should I look at in particular if I like to game online? And, will I need a wifi adapter for my PC, or can I just hook up an ethernet cable to my computer from the nanostation thing? The locoM2 should be fine for your needs. If all you're looking for is an ethernet port then you can just plug right into the nanostation. You only need to worry about the airGateway if you also want WiFi.
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Nov 15, 2014 03:23
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So the technicians just came to my house and installed fiber to the home. EDIT: OLDER MACBOOK 2010. Needed a faster computer caberham fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Nov 15, 2014 |
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Nov 15, 2014 05:33
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Now I'm getting different upload speeds. It's so weird.
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Nov 15, 2014 05:35
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Your computer might be too slow to handle that connection so there's not much point of getting a faster router setup anyway. You can try the edge router with a faster computer.
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Nov 15, 2014 06:04
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DaNzA posted:Your computer might be too slow to handle that connection so there's not much point of getting a faster router setup anyway. You can try the edge router with a faster computer. You are right. The old computer was my mom's older mac book 2010. With my main gaming computer  I'm such a dumbass, with the R7000 as a router, main gaming computer. I guess variable speed is just a thing. Then I got  and  Is there a way to learn about network diagnosis and see where is the bottle neck of my connection? caberham fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Nov 15, 2014 |
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Nov 15, 2014 06:11
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Tapedump posted:Quick notes on that.. you don't want the UAP-LR. Just because it can throw a signal far doesn't mean your client devices will be able to connect back. It seems one of the prebuilt "quick start" configs in the EdgeRouter (one wan, two lan / soho) will cover almost everything I'll need, from what I've been reading. The only thing left after that would be to poke two holes in the firewall (which you can apparently do through the GUI now) for FTP and other download services, set up and mount the UAPs, and ... I think that's it. I have to be missing something. Surely it's not that easy, right?
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Nov 15, 2014 07:46
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Raven457 posted:It seems one of the prebuilt "quick start" configs in the EdgeRouter (one wan, two lan / soho) will cover almost everything I'll need, from what I've been reading. The only thing left after that would be to poke two holes in the firewall (which you can apparently do through the GUI now) for FTP and other download services, set up and mount the UAPs, and ... I think that's it. Trip report!
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Nov 15, 2014 08:25
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Raven457 posted:It seems one of the prebuilt "quick start" configs in the EdgeRouter (one wan, two lan / soho) will cover almost everything I'll need, from what I've been reading. The only thing left after that would be to poke two holes in the firewall (which you can apparently do through the GUI now) for FTP and other download services, set up and mount the UAPs, and ... I think that's it. Usually if there's something you need to do and it's not totally out of the ordinary there's going to be an explanation of how to do it Ubiquiti's site or forum. I had to setup an edgerouter lite as a switch once just by bridging all of the ports and giving it an address for administration (totally bizarre $95 3-port switch configuration, yeahhhh!), and even that was very simple just by finding some folks talking about bridge grouping and setting up similar but not exactly the same things in the ubnt help forums. I believe that you're right and one of the stock configs is basically a SOHO style consumer router config like you're saying, so it should be a snap. It can be weird going from a web interface which is just a bunch of wizards/scripts to configure the settings and instead doing them both manually and in a way that's specific for a piece of hardware, but once you get the hang of it it's pretty easy. I then went on to learn to configure some Mikrotik routers to use IPSec VPN with dynamic hostnames and stuff which was more challenging and also totally different. With the Edgerouter lite don't forget to save the changes you make at the end, that was the only thing I hosed up and of course a power failure reset it and I had to make the bridge group again, but they seem like sturdy little guys.
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Nov 15, 2014 08:49
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Those of you using the Netgear R7000. Have you been flashing it with dd-wrt/shibby tomato or using the stock firmware? I'm looking to replace the router I have now for more features, performance and I would like to play around with OpenVPN.
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Nov 16, 2014 06:29
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The last, like, four posters talking about it in this page and the last just said they were very happy with the stock firmware (though an update was needed by one for proper VPN function).
Tapedump fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Nov 16, 2014 |
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Nov 16, 2014 07:38
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Okay, I'm at my wit's end here, and need some help. Preface: I have Comcast 25 Mb/s down, 5 Mb/s up, Motorola SB6121 modem, Netgear N750 WNDR4000 router. Here's the problem: I live in an apartment complex and wiring is not an option (our cat loves to chew on wires and it'd look like poo poo, which the girlfriend will not permit.  )I have, on my desktop, a TP-LINK 2.4GHz 802.11n PCIe adapter. This may be the cause of my problems - I have no idea. The problem is that the wifi is unreliable. At times I can get a solid 3.3 MB/s (which is about what we pay for anyway) and sometimes I can barely get 200 KB/s on the same connection, with the computer being the only device connected to the AP. I've used the free WiFi Analyzer app to detect which channel is the best - 1 is overloaded to all hell, 6 is variable, and 11 is overloaded as well. So I was an rear end in a top hat and went with channel 8. It's actually pretty reliable, but the throughput dropped to about 2 MB/s. I'm worried that I'm being an rear end in a top hat since, y'know, 802.11 has all the standards for being good neighbors and stuff. But it seems to work well. So, my worry is, maybe the N750 isn't powerful enough to drown out other noise. There's minimal interference (one wall) between my PC and the router. I've toyed with the idea of powerline networking, but this building was built in 1978 and I'm worried the electrical is complete garbage and it'll be money wasted. What would be the correct course of action, here? Do I need to spring for a 5GHz adapter for my desktop? There's only one 5GHz network in the area, and the router supports dual-band wireless. I know it's not the internet because intranet performance suffers while on wireless as well (it can sometimes take 5 minutes to load the router config screen, for example.) I have a 4th generation AirPort Extreme that I'm loaning to my parents and the fuckers just bought a new car, so they don't want to spring for a new router so I can get mine back. Otherwise I'd be testing if the router really was the problem, but to be completely honest, I have no idea what I'm doing.
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Nov 16, 2014 21:14
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Open CMD and do "ping 192.168.1.1 -t" or whatever your router's IP is. Keep this running and minimized until you notice that your connection is going to poo poo. Check to see if the pings within your own lan are going up at the same time that the performance becomes noticeably bad. If they do, it's the router; if not, go tell Comcast.
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Nov 16, 2014 21:23
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I'd at least switch from 8 to 6 or 11. On channel 8 you're getting overlap from both sides.
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Nov 16, 2014 21:29
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Switched channel to 11 and I'm running the ping now. From reading a little in the thread it seems like 1 and 11 are usually the best bet for minimizing channel overlap, and like I said, channel one has drat near 15 networks on it. Initial results of the ping: I get about 10 pings that are between 1 to 10 ms, then it'll spike up to about 250 ms for a ping or two, then die down. Seems like it might be the actual router... edit: Looks like DD-WRT runs on the router, too. Good idea, or no? I'm no stranger to loving with settings, but I am worried about the performance of the router being worse. Macichne Leainig fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Nov 16, 2014 |
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Nov 16, 2014 21:41
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Just a quick question, more of a confirmation: When you install a new router, you generally want to power down the modem, install the router, power up the router, then power up the modem, right? When I replaced my parent's router (it was an older Linksys with some security vulnerabilities) it initially said "Hey! I can't talk to the internet!" until I restarted the upstream modem, and then it said "Oh yeah, there's the net, I can do this." Not sure why the modem/router was unhappy until I power cycled the modem.
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Nov 16, 2014 22:18
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Short answer, because ISP-provided modems are designed on the cheap, which covers almost all use cases. Longer answer, they're usually designed to do something like a /30 DHCP scope with a fairly long lease. /30 means 30 bits of the 32-bit IP address are the network, with 2 bits left over for hosts. Quick math ((2^n)-2 is the formula) says /30 leaves 4 addresses, with 2 usable host addresses. One is taken by the router's LAN port, the other goes to your end device. Yeah, you'll get a /24 address from the modem's DHCP, but that's not really the "truth". The assumption is that you'll plop in a modem and a router and not really change either of them until the heat death of the universe, and that's generally a safe assumption.
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Nov 16, 2014 22:32
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Protocol7 posted:Switched channel to 11 and I'm running the ping now. From reading a little in the thread it seems like 1 and 11 are usually the best bet for minimizing channel overlap, and like I said, channel one has drat near 15 networks on it. Tonight when you go to bed, run the test again and have cmd write the outputs to a text file. Next morning ctrl f the text file or just scroll through it to see how often it spikes when there is likely much less traffic across everyone's wifi.
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Nov 16, 2014 22:33
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Protocol7 posted:Okay, I'm at my wit's end here, and need some help. Don't take wiring off the table yet. How about using some wall-mount cable raceways to make it not look like poo poo and protect the cables from your cat, and 3M Command adhesive so that it doesn't damage the paint on the walls to keep your landlord happy? Wired Ethernet won't have any of the reliability or speed problems that wireless has in a noisy environment.
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Nov 16, 2014 23:25
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SamDabbers posted:Don't take wiring off the table yet. How about using some wall-mount cable raceways to make it not look like poo poo and protect the cables from your cat, and 3M Command adhesive so that it doesn't damage the paint on the walls to keep your landlord happy? Wired Ethernet won't have any of the reliability or speed problems that wireless has in a noisy environment. Yeah, raceways are great and you can also get flat ethernet cables that hide under rugs/carpet/baseboards with relative ease. The other option with the 5GHz capable router and wireless adapter would be the other choice.
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Nov 16, 2014 23:41
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Hey goons, does this switch look like a counterfeit Cisco? It's 8 port Poe supporting af/at http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=...44101.69.NaSxMP Only 60 USD. Do the specs look legit? I'm tempted to buy
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Nov 17, 2014 02:22
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caberham posted:Hey goons, does this switch look like a counterfeit Cisco? It's 8 port Poe supporting af/at It's a chinese knock-off: it literally could be anything from a chip-perfect copy to a case stuffed full of used pinball parts.
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Nov 17, 2014 10:52
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spog posted:It's a chinese knock-off: it literally could be anything from a chip-perfect copy to a case stuffed full of used pinball parts. Also with the potential to burn down your home.  I personally wouldn't trust it with my devices, doubly so since it's PoE and feeding electricity out its ports.
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Nov 17, 2014 15:23
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