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A lot of times when I get out of my '96 Accord I could hear boiling from the front of my car. Today, praying it wouldn't explode, I popped the hood and saw that there was water boiling in the white tank in the lower left of this picture. What should I do? I drive very short distances but I have the A/C on always and I have to drive up a hill to get home.  Also how can I make the A/C blow icy cold and also why does the A/C stink sometimes when I turn it on?
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Jul 30, 2010 02:51
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^^Accord guy, just to make sure, your coolant isn't brown, right? And if you take the oil cap off, it doesn't look milky or anything, right? If everything looks ok (brown oil, green/whatever color coolant) then you probably need a new radiator cap- which is the little metal cap about a foot to the right of your arrow. Musty A/C= get some mold-killing stuff from autozone for that Bad A/C= old refrigerant doesn't seem to work as well. get a new receiver/dryer and new refrigerant. Or, alternately, check and make sure you have enough in it still.
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Jul 30, 2010 03:21
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VanFullOfMidgets posted:^^Accord guy, just to make sure, your coolant isn't brown, right? And if you take the oil cap off, it doesn't look milky or anything, right? Ok sounds good.. now which is the coolant and oil cap? Is the coolant the same as the refrigerant?
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Jul 30, 2010 03:24
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Alright...refrigerant is what makes A/C, well, work. You can't work on this unless you have a special set of gauges, etc. If you want to fix anything other than (possibly) the musty smell, you'll want to hit up a mechanic or Jiffy Lube or something. Coolant (water) is what keeps your car's motor running at a decent temperature. It's what is inside the radiator. You have two ways of checking coolant- the radiator overflow cap (which is what your arrow is pointing at) and the radiator cap, which is the little cap a bit to the right. Oil lubricates your engine...the oil filler cap is kinda hard to explain- I don't quite have a paint program right now, so...If you see the big metal sheet-thingy marked "HOT", look right above that and find the little cap with a bunch of nubs on it. That's the oil filler cap. Sorry for the explanation, I figured if you didn't know much I'd try to help out real quick. edit: you can do the musty smell mold-killing stuff yourself tho
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Jul 30, 2010 03:37
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Ok thanks a lot for the explanation. I just went out and took off the radiator cap and there was no coolant/water inside! It was just dry inside but the cap was wet like steam condensed on it. I also noticed the radiator overflow cap was dripping wet on the outside, which makes me think that's the one that's leaking. Also my car drips a lot of water for some reason. I'm thinking now it's all from the radiator overflow cap? Now do I fix/replace the radiator overflow cap, fill the radiator with water and or coolant and hope that fixes the problem?
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Jul 30, 2010 04:02
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So I was an idiot and backed into a low stone ledge that I didn't see. The result: rashed bumper and hosed up paint. What are my options for making it more presentable? It looks pretty awful as it is and I'm not really feeling like paying 1000+ for a new bumper+paint+labor. http://www.urethanesupply.com/storefillers.php Would any of those work? How well does sand, fill, paint work on bumpers? I have pretty limited experience in this sort of stuff.
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Jul 30, 2010 05:54
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Grumpicat posted:Ok thanks a lot for the explanation. If you have the money, just replace them both. They shouldn't be too expensive at all. Before you replace them, though, yes, you should refill the car with 50/50 coolant/water.
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Jul 30, 2010 12:27
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Leperflesh posted:The pink stuff can go towards brown after a while, but it might be worth doing a flush, in case that's a bit of corrosion coming out into the coolant. Thanks. I'll keep an eye on it.
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Jul 30, 2010 13:18
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The 4wd shifter on my Suzuki Samurai wobbles violently to the left and right while in 2wd and in 2nd and 3rd gears, producing a very loud clunking noise. What's wrong?
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Jul 30, 2010 16:37
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Broken engine/transmission mount(s).
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Jul 30, 2010 16:42
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What years did the 318 come in Dodge trucks? This '79 on Craigslist says it has a 318, but Wikipedia says differently. \/\/\/\/ ... Good point. Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Jul 30, 2010 |
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Jul 30, 2010 18:34
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It's a 30-year-old truck - odds are good that it's not the original engine.
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Jul 30, 2010 18:36
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How difficult is it to maintain a 6.5L Duramax with automatic transmission? What horrible perils will be bestowed upon me? It's on a Chevy Express/GMC Savana platform, but in school bus config  Mileages start at around 75k and go up from there.http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ctd/1870792120.html
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Jul 30, 2010 20:23
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Grumpicat posted:A lot of times when I get out of my '96 Accord I could hear boiling from the front of my car. Today, praying it wouldn't explode, I popped the hood and saw that there was water boiling in the white tank in the lower left of this picture. What should I do? Are your fans coming on? As I recall, the main fan is on the passenger side of the radiator and the condenser fan is on the driver's side. Get the car up to operating temperature and pop the hood with the AC off. If the car is at or above the operating temperature, then the main fan should be running. Then, with the key on, turn on the AC. The drivers side fan should turn on. If either fan is bad it can affect your AC's cooling capability and cause your car to run hot.
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Jul 30, 2010 20:40
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I have a '94 Park Ave, with a vin code 1 engine. I bought it with blown spider gears. I plan on getting a used/junkyard/craiglist trans. The problem is that it has a final drive ratio of 2.97 according to the RPO codes. I am having trouble finding a 4T60-E that is exactly the same. Looking at this site: http://www.gmtuners.com/transmission/index.htm it seams there are plenty of 4T60-Es with the same VSS reluctor, but with different final drive ratios. Is it possible to use one of these transmissions that has a different drive ratio, but is otherwise the same?
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Jul 30, 2010 21:28
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French Canadian posted:How difficult is it to maintain a 6.5L Duramax with automatic transmission? What horrible perils will be bestowed upon me? It's on a Chevy Express/GMC Savana platform, but in school bus config It's not a duramax (that's 6.6L), The Duramax didn't exist then. If it was a Duramax it wouldn't be going for that cheap. Short version: Non Turbo = minimal maintenance. Turbo Diesel =  unless the engine was replaced under warranty with the upgraded block.Long version:  It's basically a Hummer H1.  (I actually tell parts vendors my H1 is a Turbo GMC Savana van when it comes to engine parts. It saves me some money.)Now maintainability depends on 2 factors. Is it a 6.5 Turbo Diesel? Or a N/A Diesel. That's very, very important. The 6.5 N/A's are generally bullet proof when maintained. It's usually paired with a 4L80E transmission with a RV/Truck valve body which is also very reliable when maintained. The 6.5 usually uses a mechanical injection pump, with mechanical linkages for throttle and there's minimal computer/electronic stuff to deal with. Parts are common as dirt, the engine in either application is very well documented. Now if it's a Turbo Diesel.... it means it's a center mount turbo for that application [GMC Van/H1]. That's a whole other issue. Given the model year, the fact the truck is for sale in California and given CARB's dealing at the time, I'm willing to bet that 1998 bus is actually a Turbo Diesel, if you have a picture of the engine bay I could tell you. Or the VIN. The two big issues with 6.5 Turbo diesels made before 2001 is the electronic fuel injection system, and the block casting. First up the block as this is the big item. The 6.5 is based on the Detroit diesel 6.2L engine used in GM/Chevy applications in the 80's as well as the early generations of the HMMWV. They reinforced the casting a bit, and bored out the cylinders and introduced the 6.5 diesel. CARB was getting its panties in a bunch about medium duty diesels not having a fuel return system for emissions or some crap, so a quick solution for GM, would be to introduce a turbo diesel model with electronic fuel injection. The problem is they didn't beef up the block enough with the turbo upgrade. The cooling passages were inadequate at the rear of the engine, in particular, the #8 cylinder. There is a high failure rate of 97-99 6.5 blocks at the #8 cylinder wall, at all mileage ranges. Sometimes it would happen within 3000 miles, sometimes at 100,000. 1996 for some reason didn't seem to .. as many issues with this according to a factory rep I know. It's a common issue with GM diesels from that era, here's a good article on it. http://flashoffroad.com/Diesel/No8Cyl/CrackedBlock.htm This is obviously a show stopper. The 6.5 NA's don't have an problem with this. When I get a 6.5 turbo truck I make sure the block has been upgraded. Here's an easy way how. Here's a typical 6.5 turbo (my friend got this working one for free, long story, but they're not too expensive to buy), most of the parts was from a 97, but it was rebuilt with a newer "fixed" block.  Here's what you look for. Get under the van, and look on the drivers side of the block near the bell housing for the transmission around the oil filter and oil cooler lines.  There should be a drain hole above the filter assembly with a little tube (missing in this shot) sticking out. If the block has this, you have the newer style "fixed" turbo diesel block. If the block does not have this drain hole, run don't walk away from it. It's a boat anchor of an engine. That the big problem with the 6.5's out of the way. The other big issue with the 6.5 turbo is the PMD mounted on the injection pump. They look like this and are located in a really inaccessible location in the engine valley. They regulate the injection pump and basically it's 11 cents worth of resistors encased in ceramic. They are also really prone to heat and vibration failure which makes them ideal for a diesel engine application. I had to replace mine on monday.  There's a problem solver PMD that fixes all the issues, it took stanadyne over 14 years to figure it out finally. They sleeved the bolt mounts, created a new harness with gold plated connection points, and encased the resistor pack in a silicon based jelly. It's basically much more heat and vibration resistant. To make it easier to ID them, they colored the case gray like this:  Unfortunately to get the Stanadyne warranty, they have to be pump mounted in the OEM location. Which means removing the coolant and intake crossovers and mucking around for 3 hours to do the job. Failing that, you can get a 3rd party PMD from D-Tech and a relocation kit. You leave the old PMD where it is, unplug it, and run a extension harness to your aftermarket unit and mount that somewhere accessible. http://www.hdiesel.com/product.asp?id=42 So in summary: 1. 6.5 N/A = OK 2. 6.5 Turbo with upgraded block and gray PMD [you can spot it by looking in the engine valley] = OK 3. 6.5 Turbo with the upgraded block and black PMD = Keep a spare and a relocation kit on hand [around $200] 4. Any other combination = avoid. Any other questions on the 6.5.. just ask..
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Jul 30, 2010 22:04
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Geared Hub posted:
I used to work at a G.M. dealer in 99 and early '00. I remember hearing talk that the 6.5s had issues with cracking heads in between valve seats, true? We would to get one every few months for that problem, or so it seemed. I'm not about to go buy one, just interested, and maybe the other guy might be too.
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Jul 30, 2010 23:19
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My 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse leaks water onto the passenger floorboard during left-hand turns when the AC is on. The blower also slows and makes noise, leading me to believe the hose that drains the condensation from the condenser is clogged. The factory service manual seems to be completely loving void of a diagram that shows where the drain hose is. Anyone know where the goddamned drain hose is? I'm sure all I need to do is shoot a little compressed air in it...
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Jul 30, 2010 23:49
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French Canadian posted:How difficult is it to maintain a 6.5L Duramax with automatic transmission? What horrible perils will be bestowed upon me? It's on a Chevy Express/GMC Savana platform, but in school bus config I'd question why they're selling an apparently clean low miles bus so cheaply. I'm not that familiar with GM diesels (Geared Hub has that covered anyway) but the Ford chassis busses we service are usually run up to 150k-200k miles before being liquidated.
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Jul 31, 2010 00:04
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PainBreak posted:My 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse leaks water onto the passenger floorboard during left-hand turns when the AC is on. The blower also slows and makes noise, leading me to believe the hose that drains the condensation from the condenser is clogged.
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Jul 31, 2010 02:43
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PainBreak posted:My 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse leaks water onto the passenger floorboard during left-hand turns when the AC is on. The blower also slows and makes noise, leading me to believe the hose that drains the condensation from the condenser is clogged. Just poke around on the starboard side of the car underneath and look for the dangly hose. It'll come out of the firewall via a grommet and be held pointing downward by a clip of some sort.
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Jul 31, 2010 03:12
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I've got an 86 Dodge Custom 150 pickup with some gremlins all up in it. I'm pretty sure the front differential has some massive problem with it, since when you turn too tightly in 4wd the front wheels don't spin at the right speed, causing the front end to kind of shuffle. The transmission seems mostly fine (auto), but shifting into reverse typically causes a terrible clunk and jerks the truck backwards a bit. It seems to do this less frequently in 4wd, though still some of the time. It clunks/rocks every time in 2wd. The u-joints are fine according to a couple guys I work with (one was a BMW wrench for some 7 years). Any guesses?
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Jul 31, 2010 05:33
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Possibly the stupidest one of all. I have a 2001 Accord LX Sedan. The screaming (I use that term very loosely) 2.3L 4 cylinder vtec pounding out a whole 150 hp... in a 3200 pound car. It had a new"ish" battery when I got it in 2006. It's a Sears Diehard Silver from early 2006 (Jan or Feb). I've never had a battery go more than 3 years in the TX heat until now. I've jumped countless cars with it. I've left it sitting for over a month in the dead of winter. I've left the headlights on for nearly 2 hours as a sole light source while working on a coworker's car. Seriously when the gently caress is this battery going to give up? I have the money set aside for a new one, but I don't believe in replacing what's not broken. It's never turned over slow except after using the headlights to light up a coworker's car for nearly 2 hours the other night (high beams and all), and even then it barely sounded sluggish. I have completely neglected the battery in every way shape and form. I've never tried to top it off, I've never cleaned the cables, it just sits there. Our average high this time of year is over 100F - and it sat for 3 months in the Texas hill country in the dead of winter dropping to below -15F overnight (and still fired on the first try). How long do these drat things last?! Believe me I've gotten my money's worth out of it, but how much longer can I expect it to last? It does show signs of very, very slight bulging, but no leaking and no real oxidation of the terminals. Since I got this car in 2006, my mom's 2003 Avalon XLS has been through 3 batteries (5 total since she bought it new). Currently about 117k miles. Everything is bone stock, even the lovely stereo that no longer works as a radio, only CD (you can use the radio, but it randomly starts seeking other stations).
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Jul 31, 2010 07:36
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Update on my coolant boiling '96 Accord. I got a new radiator cap today and coolant because the radiator had like no coolant in it. I drove it around and no boiling yet. We'll see how it does after I park it in the sun then drive it up a hill with the a/c on.. The guy at the auto parts store said maybe the overflow tank cap was bad also.
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Jul 31, 2010 21:26
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Grumpicat posted:Update on my coolant boiling '96 Accord. I hope you used premix, or did 50/50 yourself, cause if you "filled" it up with just straight coolant you're going to kill it.
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Jul 31, 2010 21:45
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Yeah it's premixed hehe. I got the cheapy store brand because I had a feeling it would all boil out anyway.
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Jul 31, 2010 23:30
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scapulataf posted:I used to work at a G.M. dealer in 99 and early '00. I remember hearing talk that the 6.5s had issues with cracking heads in between valve seats, true? We would to get one every few months for that problem, or so it seemed. That's entirely possible, but I haven't seen any head issues like that. In the late 90's, it was whole engines getting replaced due to the #8 cylinder crack. Generally I found the heads aren't usually an issue unless it's a cheap import aftermarket copy or an older head on a newer block. There's a lot of new old stock 80's 6.2/6.5 parts kicking around and diesel shops treat everything as compatible even though it may not be. The 6.5 got reworked over and over again. The best GM version is the "F" VIN block introduced around 2000. The duramax rolled out, and AM General purchased the design and molds around 01 or so and formed a new division called General Engine Products and produced new 6.5's for the military in co-operation with Navistar. The latest and greatest version is the optimizer 6500 p400 which is ... around 250-350 hp with 550 ft/lbs of torque. They have a few other models, including a de-tuned 6.5 which is meant as a 6.2 replacement for older trucks that may not have a drivetrain that can support the increased power of the newer engines. The big problem with the 6.2/6.5/turbo trucks is a bad diesel shop which may not install the correct parts on a repair. The worst one I've seen recently was a "performance" diesel shop which took a new crate GEP motor, then offered an upgrade option of replacing a timing chain with solid gears from an 80's design of the engine. That upgrade is anything but. It wound up almost destroying the engine, the crankshaft was all scored from gear fitment which didn't quite fit, it threw the timing off at random intervals when it would slip on the crankshaft, causing one of the cylinders to interfere. Fortunately my friend caught it in time and the engine was salvaged with a new piston and a new crankshaft with timing chain [which isn't a replacement items on these engines]. pienipple posted:I'd question why they're selling an apparently clean low miles bus so cheaply. I'm not that familiar with GM diesels (Geared Hub has that covered anyway) but the Ford chassis busses we service are usually run up to 150k-200k miles before being liquidated. I'm betting they may not pass the new diesel emissions rules recently enacted for 1998 and higher diesels. Or it's an old 6.5 block which they know its on the last legs [ie feeding it coolant with tons of white smoke]. Or maybe the guy just needs cash fast. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Aug 1, 2010 |
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Aug 1, 2010 00:50
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Geared Hub posted:It wound up almost destroying the engine, the crankshaft was all scored from gear fitment which didn't quite fit, it threw the timing off at random intervals when it would slip on the crankshaft What the heck -- is it just press fit? Swaged?
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Aug 1, 2010 02:15
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Grumpicat posted:The guy at the auto parts store said maybe the overflow tank cap was bad also. Unlikely. Overflow tanks don't hold/expel any pressure and in fact are designed to let out air anyway I believe. All the pressure is contained inside the radiator and the cooling system. Water will boil over at about 265 degrees under no pressure I think. That number is a lot higher if the system is actually holding pressure. The spring in the radiator cap will be pushed up by pressure around 10-15 psi when the temperature rises(t1=p1 you may remember from physics classes), letting water(/air) into that tube that leads into the overflow tank. As long as it's keeping bugs/dust out of the tank, the condition/seal of the cap is irrelevant. Or maybe hondas have a weird system, I could be wrong. You can also actually drop down to about 70% water/30% antifreeze for better cooling unless you live in the absolute coldest areas. Water is better at cooling than most anything, but you do need a little coolant in the summertime because it keeps the whole system lubricated. Use distilled water. Also look up the product water wetter if you're still having heat issues after that. It's one of the few(the only?) sort of "magical wizard additive" type things that actually works at all, and it works ridiculously well. My radiator cap died this summer as well. Happened to be just as old of a car as yours. Kinda funny. Had to get a new radiator though, that overheat caused it to develop a leak on the bottom seam. Easy fix and relatively cheap, though, and well overdue anyway.
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Aug 1, 2010 09:52
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Don't know about Hondas, but quite a few cars have a fully pressurised system with the pressure cap on the header tank.
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Aug 1, 2010 11:09
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Sweevo posted:Don't know about Hondas, but quite a few cars have a fully pressurised system with the pressure cap on the header tank. Pressurizing the coolant raises the boiling point. I'm gonna say every car you'll ever work on will be like this.
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Aug 1, 2010 16:18
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eddiewalker posted:Pressurizing the coolant raises the boiling point. I'm gonna say every car you'll ever work on will be like this. What he's saying is that many cars simply have a cap on the overflow tank and not the radiator, unlike the Honda, which has both.
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Aug 1, 2010 18:27
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VanFullOfMidgets posted:What he's saying is that many cars simply have a cap on the overflow tank and not the radiator, unlike the Honda, which has both. Yeah, I believe the way it works is instead of venting pressure out of the radiator cap into the atmosphere, the pressure vents past the base of the cap and goes through a tube that connects the neck of the radiator to the overflow tank. If you have air in your Honda's cooling system, there should be a bleeder valve on the water neck, near the fuse panel. If I remember right, you're supposed to open that, add your coolant and then quickly close it off once air stops coming out of the valve.
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Aug 1, 2010 18:52
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Weird question for you guys. My friend has a 1995 Nissan 200SX with an SR20DET swap. It's been on blocks for a few years and hasn't been started in about 4 months. Last time he checked the oil was 4 months ago after he put some Royal Purple in. Last night we went to start it up, and I checked the oil and noticed the oil level on the dipstick was ridiculously high. We then noticed that the oil was almost black and smelt like gasoline. We drained the oil and it was about half filled with gas. The oil cap was also on ridiculously tight, and we had to take it off with loving pliers. We weren't sure how this much gas could get into the oil naturally, as it hasn't even been started in 4 months. We think someone is loving with him. We checked all the other vehicles in his driveway, and his dad's motorcycle has a bunch of gas in the oil as well. Those are the two vehicles that rarely if ever, leave the house. So if someone was loving with him, then those would be the two to gently caress with when no one is home. Can you guys come up with any ideas as to how that much gas could get into his oil? \/\/\/\/ Its possible, I'll have to ask him when he wakes up. If I remember correctly, he told me the fuel pump wasn't even hooked up, but my memory is horrible. Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Aug 1, 2010 |
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Aug 1, 2010 18:58
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Is it possible that the fuel pump(s) have been running while the car's off and just flooded the engine?
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Aug 1, 2010 19:01
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My sister-in-law wants me to do the brakes on her 2000 Bonneville SSEi. Looking at Rockauto's selection, there's just so much I'm not sure what I should recommend. Right now I'm looking at Bendix OE-quality ceramic brake pads at $34.79 a set, and Centrik C-tek rotors which are $31.79 ea front and $18.19 ea rear. This comes to $209.20 after shipping. If I get the cheapest (Valucraft) Autozone stuff, it's $127.94 but she wants to keep the car a long time so I wanted to get quality stuff. Thoughts?
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Aug 1, 2010 19:22
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Jeep Wagoneer with a 360/2-barrel Lately when I drive it, I get some popping out of the exhaust and powerloss at mid throttle (haven't opened it up beyond that). I pull around 5-10psi vacuum normally, could this be the cause? I want to rebuild the carb (it has sat a lot), but it is still going to run like poo poo without fixing the vacuum problem isn't it? Also, how do I tell if I have the Motorcraft 2100 or 2150? I'm not sure what year the motor is. Diving into carb tech is going to be a lot of fun.
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Aug 1, 2010 19:24
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VanFullOfMidgets posted:Is it possible that the fuel pump(s) have been running while the car's off and just flooded the engine? Even if it's running while off, the injectors shouldn't be firing, and the pressure regulator should be kicking back the extra fuel to the tank.
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Aug 1, 2010 19:37
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CornHolio posted:My sister-in-law wants me to do the brakes on her 2000 Bonneville SSEi. Looking at Rockauto's selection, there's just so much I'm not sure what I should recommend.
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Aug 2, 2010 00:26
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Key replacement question: I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonata. I've lost my keys. However, after researching a little on the internet it appears replacing these can be super expensive if it has the "chip" or whatever. Here's the deal though: even if it is a "chip type" key, the car doesn't work and the battery is disconnected. I just need to open the door and put the car in neutral so I can have it towed somewhere else. Will the dealer just cut the key without any programming or whatever for me? (Im calling them tomorrow, I just don't want to get screwed) I've found this site: http://www.keylessride.com/ Seems like my key would be like $2 from that site but it is uncut. Apparently I need the VIN to have either a locksmith or the dealer cut the key? If the key thing is too expensive or whatever could someone tow it with a flatbed without the key or ability to put it in neutral? Thanks in advance for advice.
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Aug 2, 2010 02:26
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