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While investigating a squeaking noise on my front wheel I took a glance at my chain ring and to my eyes it looks like its not long for this world, right? Now if only I could find a 48T replacement in stock somewhere.
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Jun 15, 2021 16:19
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Jonny Quest posted:While investigating a squeaking noise on my front wheel I took a glance at my chain ring and to my eyes it looks like its not long for this world, right? That chainring looks practically new
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Jun 15, 2021 16:22
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Jonny Quest posted:While investigating a squeaking noise on my front wheel I took a glance at my chain ring and to my eyes it looks like its not long for this world, right? Seems fine? Are you stressing about the teeth that are of different shapes? That looks like shaping done to help the shifting be smoother, not wear.
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Jun 15, 2021 16:23
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Ah, I see it now, some teeth are shaped to allow the chain to move up and down. Thanks, folks, I'm still new to learning to "read" chain wear as all bikes in my collection are wildly different in age and technology.
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Jun 15, 2021 16:44
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Jonny Quest posted:Ah, I see it now, some teeth are shaped to allow the chain to move up and down. Chainring wear will be obvious because there will be a concave curvature on the leading edge of each tooth. That and the valleys between each tooth will look significantly elongated.
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Jun 15, 2021 18:49
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TobinHatesYou posted:Chainring wear will be obvious because there will be a concave curvature on the leading edge of each tooth. That and the valleys between each tooth will look significantly elongated. Yeah like a shark fin is bad.
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Jun 15, 2021 20:52
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Imo you'd have to go through say least one chain before you start seeing chainring wear even if you don't lubricate it and ride in mud every day.
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Jun 16, 2021 01:21
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I have 10k miles on my chainring and that's 90% gravel. I keep it pretty clean and lube almost every ride. It's definitely at the end of its life now, but it's been a champ (Wolftooth).
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Jun 16, 2021 01:23
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So I've been trying to replace a punctured tubeless tyre but I cannot get the beads to seat. I've got a portable air compressor and removed the valve core for maximum airflow but the psi never goes above zero from leaking all around the tyre. I've tried coating the outside with soapy water but that just makes it bubble up as it leaks and I don't think I can do the innertube trick as there's a already a valve built into the rim that I can't remove, other than going to my bike shop and begging them to do it for me again are there any other options for sorting this tyre change?
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Jun 16, 2021 22:38
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valve built into the rim? I always lube the bead with chain lube. helps it slide right in. You can also do the tire lever trick of seating it yourself and sliding around the whole tire to get it 90% there on each side (can take a few tries). You already have sealant in right?
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Jun 16, 2021 22:42
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I'm not sure what you mean by valve built into the rim, but the answer is More rim tape.
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Jun 16, 2021 22:42
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Sorry I'm still learning this stuff and entirely from online how-to guides! There are long tube tubes that the valve core screws onto on both the the old inner tube and the rim and I don't see any way to remove either so as is I don't know how to fix the inner tube back in there. And I've tried with and without sealant based on conflicting guides I read, so the next thing I should go for is lining the exterior of the tyre with rim tape, see if that holds the pressure in?
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Jun 16, 2021 22:52
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multijoe posted:so the next thing I should go for is lining the exterior of the tyre with rim tape, see if that holds the pressure in? no, don't do that lol. if you can't seat the tire with a compressor you have an air leak and need more rim tape (inside the rim, where it belongs) or need to pre-seat the tire better.
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Jun 16, 2021 22:58
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Bottom Liner posted:no, don't do that lol. if you can't seat the tire with a compressor you have an air leak and need more rim tape (inside the rim, where it belongs) or need to pre-seat the tire better. Okay, that makes more sense. What can I do to pre-seat it better though? Is there a knack to getting stubborn beads to be good? From the soapy water experiment I saw the leaks were coming from all around the beads as well so I don't think the issue is with the rim tape...
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Jun 16, 2021 23:04
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tE3h4nmDdOo&t=224s this is the tire lever trick i mentioned. start at 3:45 if the link doesn't do it automatically
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Jun 16, 2021 23:09
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Bottom Liner posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tE3h4nmDdOo&t=224s Thank you, I'll have a stab at this tomorrow morning!
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Jun 16, 2021 23:48
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Also, my life for the last three days: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jYPp9w-0Uk
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Jun 16, 2021 23:58
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multijoe posted:So I've been trying to replace a punctured tubeless tyre but I cannot get the beads to seat. I've got a portable air compressor and removed the valve core for maximum airflow but the psi never goes above zero from leaking all around the tyre. I've tried coating the outside with soapy water but that just makes it bubble up as it leaks and I don't think I can do the innertube trick as there's a already a valve built into the rim that I can't remove, other than going to my bike shop and begging them to do it for me again are there any other options for sorting this tyre change? Pretty sure that valve stem is removable...otherwise you wouldn't be able to use a tube in an emergency.
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Jun 17, 2021 00:17
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OP you don't have the valve stem from the last tube you used still in the wheel right?
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Jun 17, 2021 00:45
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Tortilla Maker posted:The braking cables on my gardener's bike (Schwinn Impact MOS, circa 1990) snapped and he lost a few of the bolts holding the brakes in place. My gardener has been on foot (and bus) since his bike fell apart. Ended up buying him Shimano V-Brakes. I had no issue installing the front brake. Unfortunately, I don't think that the rear brake I purchased is compatible with his frame. The...screw sockets (for lack of a better term) are on the under side of the seat stays:  Found a comparable photo online:  What kind of rear brake should I be looking for? Alternatively, if I do a Google image search for "1990 Schwinn Impact MOS" most of the photos show a braking system on the top of the seat stay:  Was really hoping to get it back to him this weekend. 
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Jun 17, 2021 04:15
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Tortilla Maker posted:My gardener has been on foot (and bus) since his bike fell apart. It's a Shimano U brake: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-u.html Well that picture lists Suntour, but same idea. Pooper Hero fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Jun 17, 2021 |
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Jun 17, 2021 04:29
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Pooper Hero posted:It's a Shimano U brake: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-u.html Well that picture lists Suntour, but same idea. Thanks! From that Sheldon article: quote:A U brake uses a conventional brake lever, not the special lever with longer cable pull used with direct-pull brakes (V brakes). Would this brake+lever bundle work? https://www.ebay.com/p/1825054921?iid=144052141801 Considering I already installed a V-brake in the front with a new lever, how bad of an idea would it be have a U-brake in the rear; a V-brake in the front (and thus, two different levers)?
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Jun 17, 2021 04:42
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Tortilla Maker posted:Thanks! It won't look as nice(to have mismatching levers), but it will work fine. I haven't dealt with U-brakes in like 20 years, but my understanding is that the BMX ones will work: https://www.mtbr.com/threads/late-80s-u-brake-on-chainstay-rockhoopper-trek-8500-can-i-bmx-u-brake.915905/
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Jun 17, 2021 04:59
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VelociBacon posted:OP you don't have the valve stem from the last tube you used still in the wheel right? The first time round I had it all sorted at my bike shop, this is the first time doing it myself. But I've checked and there's a tubeless valve stem installed ATM which would need removing to put the inner tube back in. But I've tried the inner tube method with the valve stick out the side, thought it had worked but as soon as I loosened one side the entire tire popped out again, I've tried the tire remover method linked in the video repeatedly but the tire keep slipping back into the centre of the rim at the slightest opportunity and I cannot get enough of it to stay pre-mounted to build any air pressure. I don't know if it's my incompetence or really obstinate tires but genuinely despairing at this point, spent over three hours trying to get these to mount at this point and I just cannot get them to work
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Jun 17, 2021 12:24
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I finally got some loose gravelking sks to seat by following the advice of this thread - more tape in the center and then dumping an absolute shitload of sealant in there. No, more. More. I saw some guys from orange seal doing it for people at a gravel race and that’s when it finally made sense to me. If you have a compressor you should be able to get it to work with a little bit of time and swearing.
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Jun 17, 2021 12:35
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multijoe posted:The first time round I had it all sorted at my bike shop, this is the first time doing it myself. But I've checked and there's a tubeless valve stem installed ATM which would need removing to put the inner tube back in. A compressor is not important a large volume of air in a short time is, you need good size air tank, I have found that by rolling the wheel on the ground where the air is leaking from while inflating helps if you can't get it to pop one the rim try adding another layer of tape it doesn't need to be tubeless tape. good luck !
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Jun 17, 2021 12:49
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Time posted:I finally got some loose gravelking sks to seat by following the advice of this thread - more tape in the center and then dumping an absolute shitload of sealant in there. No, more. More. Well of course they would use tons of it! 
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Jun 17, 2021 18:47
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multijoe posted:there's a tubeless valve stem installed ATM which would need removing to put the inner tube back in. That's your starting point, removing the tubeless valve. Once it's off, wrap the rim bed with more tubeless tape, to decrease the gap between it and the tire bead, reduce your air loss rate. If it's as bad as it sounds, maybe try two layers. (then put the valve back on)
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Jun 17, 2021 19:19
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bicievino posted:Well of course they would use tons of it! Big Sealant found another mark.
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Jun 17, 2021 20:06
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So random question, my rim trouble last month left a lot of holes in the tape and almost all of the sealant ended up under the part of the rim where the tape sits and has dried. Is there no hope of getting that gunk out of there?
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Jun 17, 2021 22:28
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Bottom Liner posted:So random question, my rim trouble last month left a lot of holes in the tape and almost all of the sealant ended up under the part of the rim where the tape sits and has dried. Is there no hope of getting that gunk out of there? I've just had to remove the tape, clean, and retape in that situation. Annoying stuff. Makes buying a big roll of the green strapping tape make sense tho I guess.
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Jun 17, 2021 23:08
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No, I mean in the spoke holes under the main section of the rim. In the V under the U if that makes sense.
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Jun 17, 2021 23:13
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Bottom Liner posted:No, I mean in the spoke holes under the main section of the rim. In the V under the U if that makes sense. Ooooh, oof. That... that's a bummer.
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Jun 17, 2021 23:20
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yeah, i just hope 4-5oz of sealant weigh a lot less dried up than wet 
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Jun 17, 2021 23:25
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buying new wheels because the old ones are full of curdled tire milk
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Jun 17, 2021 23:27
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A lot of time with a pressure washer might dislodge the sealant boogers. EDIT: if they start moving but don't break up to the point of being removable via shaking the poo poo out of your rim use a dental pick or a pokey spoke to fish em out. BTW if you don't have one a dental pick set is extremely useful for a lot of non dental applications. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Jun 18, 2021 |
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Jun 18, 2021 06:02
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bicievino posted:curdled tire milk Who leaked my new sealant product?
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Jun 18, 2021 06:07
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Bottom Liner posted:No, I mean in the spoke holes under the main section of the rim. In the V under the U if that makes sense. I would probably just buy a new bike
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Jun 18, 2021 07:30
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Skarsnik posted:I would probably just buy a new bike 
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Jun 18, 2021 08:45
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Well, I unmounted the tire, removed the tubeless stem, applied two more layers of rim tape, spent 45 minutes remounting the tire and tore the skin off half my left thumb doing so, put in enough sealant to plug the suez canal and the pressure is still sitting at 0 psi I want to throw my bike into a volcano E: okay the final boss here ended up being my air compressor. After shaking the tire around again I got it to seal enough to get the psi up to about 6 but then I couldn't get it any further due to a loose fit around the valve, but switching to my hand pump I got it to pop and up to 80. Looks like this should be the home stretch now? No Dignity fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Jun 18, 2021 |
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Jun 18, 2021 15:04
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