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God drat, I wasn't expecting to come across a  link in the homebrew thread of all places.
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Jun 15, 2011 17:02
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WHAT THE FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK
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Jun 15, 2011 18:34
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caucasion posted:Caucasian posted 
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Jun 15, 2011 18:44
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Okay, I no longer feel at all strange for being tempted to add packing peanuts to a beer.
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Jun 15, 2011 18:52
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Uh, let's go back to apple cider. Please. I'm assuming you want raw honey, right?
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Jun 15, 2011 19:25
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Docjowles posted:Question for the fans of complicated mash schedules: how important is it to do a cereal mash on flaked wheat/oats? Google has been giving me conflicting opinions. I'm doing a wit tomorrow with about 40% of the grainbill flaked wheat and 10% flaked oats. My current plan is to kind of do a ghetto decoction where I give the barley malt a protein rest at 122* while conducting the cereal mash, then dump that into the mash tun to raise to saccharification temp. What negatives would skipping the cereal mash have?
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Jun 15, 2011 19:27
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tonedef131 posted:What you described is a text book cereal/adjunct mash. Doing this with raw wheat and raw oats is very beneficial, but since you are using the flaked version of each it isn't necessary and probably wouldn't have a huge benefit. I would either just do a regular step mash with the ingredients you listed, or switch to completely raw versions each and conduct a cereal mash. The former is easier and faster but the later is more fun and traditional. I did end up just doing a protein rest and then another rest at 154. I got horrible efficiency, but that's been a problem for me lately anyway so I can't blame the mash for that. Thanks for confirming that the cereal mash isn't really needed for flaked adjuncts, though!
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Jun 15, 2011 20:06
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Josh Wow posted:I'm pretty sure you can put cornstarch in your beer and it'll ferment out pretty much completely, so it'd just thin your beer out and make it cloudy. As for the packing peanuts, I think the question answers itself with the term "cornstarch-based". Obviously there is something else in there as filler, and it's likely something I wouldn't want to take a chance on using in beer.
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Jun 16, 2011 00:20
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I would like to see someone make some candy circus peanut wine now. There has to be some fermentables in those somewhere, right?
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Jun 16, 2011 00:48
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I posted this recipe before creepy dead person packing peanut beer chat and didn't get any feedback. Does anyone have any thoughts on this one? I am going for a Belgian DIPA as it were v v but I'm worried that as it stands right now I may not have enough body to balance the hops and that the hops may still be too high to let the yeast shine a bit. Boil Size: 6.52 gal Bottling Volume: 4.60 gal Estimated OG: 1.087 SG Estimated Color: 13.7 SRM Estimated IBU: 98.2 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 % Boil Time: 90 Minutes Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU 7 lbs Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 42.7 % 7 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 1 42.7 % 1 lbs Candi Sugar, Amber (75.0 SRM) Sugar 5 6.1 % 6.1 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 4 2.3 % 1 lbs Carapils (Briess) (1.5 SRM) Grain 3 6.1 % 1.00 oz Warrior [15.80 %] - Boil 90.0 min Hop 7 43.9 IBUs 1.00 oz Chinook [11.00 %] - Boil 90.0 min Hop 6 30.6 IBUs 1.00 oz Cascade [5.40 %] - Boil 45.0 min Hop 8 12.9 IBUs 1.00 oz Cascade [5.40 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 9 10.8 IBUs 2.00 oz Cascade [5.40 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 10 0.0 IBUs 1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 11 0.0 IBUs 1.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Dry Hop 14.0 Days Hop 13 0.0 IBUs 1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 14.0 Days Hop 14 0.0 IBUs 1.00 oz Willamette [4.80 %] - Dry Hop 14.0 Days Hop 15 0.0 IBUs 1.0 pkg Flanders Golden (Wyeast #3739) Yeast 12 - Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
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Jun 16, 2011 13:48
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Ok, so I got to around page 400 when I saw a mod mention that totally fine for people to not read the whole thread. This thing is loving long. Anyway, I started brewing back in early May, my first brew was a stout that turned out great and I've currently got a brown ale fermenting. Both were from Brewers Best kits and I modified the recopies based on what I read in How To Brew to try and make them a little bit better (adjusted hopping times, temperatures, etc). Both beers used Nottingham yeast which worked great and fermented very fast despite being dry pitched. The Nottingham was great for my situation as well because my basement has gone from 58* when I started to currently being 60* which the Nottingham can handle fine because it's lower range was 58*. Saturday, I'll be brewing a Hefeweizen from what should be my last kit. The recipe is: 6.6 lb. Wheat LME 1 oz Mt. Hood Bittering Hops (5.5% alpha) (Start of boil) .5 oz Mt. Hood Aroma Hops (5.5% alpha) (Add at 55 minutes) 1 package Danstar/Lallemand Munich Wheat Beer Yeast I used beersmith and punch in the recipe and it looks like the hops additions as they had them make it way too many IBUs for the style, so I'm actually swapping the bittering and aroma packages since they are the same hops and adding the first addition at 10 minutes to drop the IBUs down into style. Also, the WLME is in two packages and one is added at the begining of the boil and the other is added 40 minutes into the boil. So my first question, is there anything else I should really adjust with the recipe? I know I can throw in orange zest or whatever at flameout but are there any other things I should be aware of for an extract Hefe? The second thing is the yeast. I know I didn't have to rehydrate the Nottingham, but it looks like this one should be, is it necessary? I accidentally killed the Nottingham for the brown ale when I tried to re-hydrate it and ended up buying a new pack to dry pitch, so if it can be dry pitched, that would be awesome. My second yeast question is about temperature. The package for the Munich doesn't have an optimal temperature range, just storage temps. I've gathered that yeasts for hefeweizens like it warmer then other yeasts, but too warm gives too much banana and other off flavors. Is my basement too cold at 60*? My other option is to have it upstairs where it is at the whims of the crazy weather we've been having (anywhere from 65-95*). I don't really have any method of warming it slightly in the basement. Also, since pretty much every Hefe I have access to is very fruity/banana flavored, I'd certainly like to have more of a clove character to it. tl;dr - Questions summary: 1. Anything I should adjust in an extract Hefeweizen recipe other then what I adjusted for hops? 2. Does Danstar/Lallemand Munich need to be rehydrated or can I dry pitch it? 3. Is 60* too cold for the Munich yeast? I'd prefer strong clove flavor to banana/fruit
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Jun 16, 2011 16:02
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Noghri_ViR posted:There was a youtube video going around that gave the best excerpts from the Alabama bill debate on of which was "M-E-A-D what is this mead thing?" You think someone like that might read up on it before they are supposed to be down on the house floor voting on the bill. I listened to this, and hoooooooly poo poo these legislators are nuts. Not in that I disagree with their opinions (which I obviously do), but they literally cannot form a coherent thought and they only barely appear to be using words. The fact that these are the guys who can get elected to run the state is frankly frightening. My favorite part is when the same "M-E-A-D?" guy goes off on a tangent about how Abraham talked to the pharoah and Noah (of The Ark fame) was a wino. Then there's a bunch of incoherent stuff about kids having house parties and showing up to school drunk. Alabama 
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Jun 16, 2011 16:05
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uncle jimbo posted:Uh, let's go back to apple cider. Please. I'm assuming you want raw honey, right? I just buy up a bunch at Walgreens when it goes on sale for $4 for 2lbs. Updatde: I took a sample of the maple syrup/trapist yeast cider and it tastes loving horrible. I was trying for a Crispin clone. It's only a week in the fermenter, so hopefully it'll mellow out. but usually cider is tasty at every stage. My raspberry dark wheat beer ended up fan-loving-tastic. I kegged it last night and force carbed it to sample a glass. It's exactly what I wanted. I'm thinking next I'll try a Banana Bread clone. edit: +5 to whoever opens a "Can I use my wife's menses in a beer?" thread
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Jun 16, 2011 16:25
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RodShaft posted:The best recipe for Cider I've made is 4 gallons of store bought apple juice(whatever is cheapest and has no preservatives) 2 lbs brown sugar, 2 lbs honey toss in some champagne yeast, wait a monthish and bam done. I carb mine, but it is not necessary. I've made about a dozen cider recipes, and this is by far the best. I've just found a use for my old Mr. Beer fermenter. Cut the recipe in half and it's done. Just boil in the sugar and honey to the apple juice, right? I have some cheapo Munton's yeast sitting in my fridge that should wok great for this. For those asking about honey: check costco. I think they had 13 pounds for 6-10$ last time i was there (unsure on price, but I'm sure it was 13 pounds). I brewed up an IPA last week, using Safale US-05, it raged pretty crazily for a day or two (it was ~72-75 in the house), and seems like it's done with initial, there's just nowhere near as much trub in my fermenter as there was with my amber ale. Cause for concern? OG was 1.085. Had a good inch of krausen on it (fermenting in a bucket). I'll take a reading today, maybe xfer to a carboy for a while before bottling.
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Jun 16, 2011 17:39
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Tedronai66 posted:I've just found a use for my old Mr. Beer fermenter. Cut the recipe in half and it's done. Just boil in the sugar and honey to the apple juice, right? I have some cheapo Munton's yeast sitting in my fridge that should wok great for this. I don't bother boiling them if I'm opening a fresh package.
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Jun 16, 2011 18:16
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RodShaft posted:I don't bother boiling [cider ingredients] if I'm opening a fresh package. Yep. I use bottled, pasteurized juice, so no need to boil that. Honey is pretty near to aseptic on its own, especially if it's a new package. Same for sugar. I do warm honey to make it easier to pour and dissolve, but basically I just dump everything in a sanitized fermenter, stir with a sanitized spoon to dissolve/mix, add yeast, and let it rip.
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Jun 16, 2011 18:30
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Jo3sh posted:Yep. I use bottled, pasteurized juice, so no need to boil that. Honey is pretty near to aseptic on its own, especially if it's a new package. Same for sugar. I do warm honey to make it easier to pour and dissolve, but basically I just dump everything in a sanitized fermenter, stir with a sanitized spoon to dissolve/mix, add yeast, and let it rip. Well poo poo, I didn't even think about things being pasteurized, etc. Maybe doing this tonight, as well. I think I have some empty swing-top wine bottles I could carb in if I wanted, or just straight bottle to.
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Jun 16, 2011 18:38
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Trying to create a partial mash clone for Avery's Brown: Amount Item Type % or IBU 4.00 lb Amber Dry Extract (12.5 SRM) Dry Extract 2.00 lb Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) 0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) 0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM) 0.50 lb Chocolate Malt (450.0 SRM) 0.50 oz Bullion [8.00 %] (60 min) 0.50 oz Cascade [7.00 %] (30 min) 0.50 oz Fuggles [4.50 %] (0 min) 1 Pkgs London Ale (Wyeast Labs #1028) For a 5gal batch it comes out to in beersmith: Est Original Gravity: 1.059 SG Est Final Gravity: 1.014 SG Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.88 % Bitterness: 22.7 IBU Est Color: 27.8 SRM Here's what Avery's site lists: Beer Style: American Brown Ale Hop Variety: Bullion, Cascade, Fuggles Malt Variety: Two-row barley, chocolate, Munich 10L, caramel 120L OG: 1.056 ABV: 5.5% IBUs: 17 Color: Deep Russet Overshot the abv and ibu's by a little, but I figure it's within a close enough range and I don't want to mess with a few oz's or grams of grain/hops. What do you guys think?
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Jun 17, 2011 17:45
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I don't have a dishwasher and sanitizing bottles is a pain in the rear end. Is iodophor + a bottle tree the easiest I can hope for? I was going to try heat treating in my tiny apt oven but that also proved to be pretty tedious.
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Jun 17, 2011 18:33
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Yeah, those are the only three options really.
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Jun 17, 2011 18:46
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http://www.amazon.com/Avvinatore-Vinator-Bottles-1-Count-Box/dp/B001D6FUDC This thing rinses and sanitizes.
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Jun 17, 2011 19:31
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withak posted:http://www.amazon.com/Avvinatore-Vinator-Bottles-1-Count-Box/dp/B001D6FUDC Yeah, I'm lucky my Dad has one of those to lend me.
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Jun 17, 2011 19:45
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Daedalus Esquire posted:tl;dr - Questions summary:  like woah.1. Hops are good, if you wanted a bit more of interest get some crystal malt and do a a little soak before the boil. 2. You don't really need to rehydrate dry yeast, just sprinkle that wort crack on top and give it a good shake. With that said, rehydrating wouldn't hurt and might help with the ominous lag time. 3. If you want strong clove and banana flavors your going to have trouble getting them at 60* with normal yeasts. BUT, and that is a huge butt - it looks like Danstar's Munich works at 55 - 66f. So, I guess you are in luck. Hope I helped and happy brewing.
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Jun 17, 2011 22:28
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Yes, you did thanks! I meant I'd prefer strong clove over strong banana, from what I understand clove flavors are stronger at the bottom of a yeasts range, and banana flavor is strong if fermented at the top of the yeasts range. Is this right? And for the crystal, would 8oz of 10L be enough? Beersmith shows that with just the extract I'd be at about 7.5 SRM and 8oz of 10L would put me at 8 SRM which seems to be the top end for the style.
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Jun 17, 2011 22:38
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Yes, you did thanks! I could be completely wrong, but here goes: you want clove, an ester. You don't want banana, isn't that more fusel/high temp? I have heard to get enough esters without going too hot, you should pitch a lesser amount of yeast at the cooler end of the range. Reproduction will give you the esters you want without creating nasty high temp flavors. Let the temp rise after 3 days or so to finish up.
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Jun 17, 2011 23:32
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tesilential posted:I could be completely wrong, but here goes: you want clove, an ester. You don't want banana, isn't that more fusel/high temp? I have heard to get enough esters without going too hot, you should pitch a lesser amount of yeast at the cooler end of the range. Reproduction will give you the esters you want without creating nasty high temp flavors. Let the temp rise after 3 days or so to finish up. Clove is a phenol, banana is an ester. Fusels taste like solvent/rubbing alcohol. Favoring one over the other is mostly dependent on getting the right yeast strain at the right yeast temperature. You're going to have trouble getting clove to favor banana with a weizen yeast compared to a tripel yeast, for example.
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Jun 18, 2011 00:46
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Any idea on what to expect with munich at 60-61 degrees
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Jun 18, 2011 00:56
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I am curious about wild and sour beers. I like them a lot and wanted to try brewing, perhaps my next batch. I am thinking about making a Sour Saison and fermenting with WLP670 if my LBS still has some. Here is the grain bill I am contemplating: % Amount Name Origin Potential SRM ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 67.8 10.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) America 1.036 2 5.1 0.75 lbs. CaraVienne Malt Belgium 1.034 22 11.9 1.75 lbs. Munich Malt(2-row) America 1.035 6 8.5 1.25 lbs. Sauer(acid) Malt 1.035 2 6.8 1.00 lbs. Candi Sugar (clear) Generic 1.046 1 Hops Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.50 oz. Glacier Whole 5.70 29.6 First WH 0.50 oz. Glacier Whole 5.70 0.0 0 min. So I've a few questions. I've never used acidulated malt, so I don't know if 8.5% is too much or what. What about the yeast blend? I know it contains a brett strain of some sort, how long should I expect to have this one in secondary? Can I reuse a yeast blend by harvesting, and will the ratios remain the same?
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Jun 18, 2011 01:00
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My first reaction is to do some research on what flavors that yeast produces. If it gives a good level of sourness, the acidulated malt might push you over the top into "glass of lemon juice" territory. I think people either use lots of acid malt or a bacteria culture with lactobacillus/pediococcus, not both. Brett on its own doesn't produce sour so much as funk, but White Labs' site says something about sourness from that blend. So I'd say Google WLP670 and read every forum thread you can find that isn't obviously written by a dipshit 
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Jun 18, 2011 01:23
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So I used gelatin for the first time last night, and now after 1 day at 35* there is like 2" of trub in the secondary! It was an ESB with 10 days of fermenting, then racked onto 1 heaping tsp of Knox gelatin dissolved in warm water. Can I rack it from the carboy to the keg already, or should I wait a few days like I had planned? Mostly concerned with moving too soon and ending up with gelatin in the keg, which isn't that big of a deal anyways.
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Jun 18, 2011 03:34
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Just depends on your goal. If you want to drink it ASAP rack to a keg. If you can spare another 2 days, wait and then rack. You'll get a couple more clears pint out of the keg if you wait for everything to drop out. No permanent terrible damage either way.
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Jun 18, 2011 07:51
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Knocking out two batches today, one for our homebrew club's annual BBQ and one because I got a free sack of two row from work. The brew for the club is a Roggenbier, 50% munich, 45% rye malt, 5% flaked rye and Wyeast Bavarian Wheat yeast. Tettnanger to 13 IBUs, I'm hoping it will turn out well since I've never done one of these before. I had an amazing one from Highland earlier this year so if this turns out anything close to that I'll be pumped. The other beer I'm doing is a pale ale to use up some two row and get rid of a bunch of old american hops I have. 92% two row, 4% honey malt, 4% caramunich. I'm going to hopburst it so no bittering additions, just 1 oz each of columbus at 20, 15, 10 and 5. At flameout I'm dumping about 4 oz total of cascade, cluster, golding and sorachi ace. Not too excited about this since I just brewed up a fresh hop pale ale last week with 4 oz of hops I picked at work, but I need to use this stuff up before it degrades any further.
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Jun 18, 2011 11:17
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I had a problem with my mini-mash tun setup leaking when I brewed yesterday. I'm using a 2 gallon circular cooler with the plastic spigot replaced by my own setup (see the picture). The hole in the cooler is 7/8". I'm using the gasket and plastic gasket holder that came with the cooler on the inside. A staineless steel braid is attached to the hose barb for filtering.  Prior to brewing, I tested this setup with the cooler full of water and didn't see any leaks for over an hour. Yesterday, I saw that it was leaking very slowly, with the wort forming a droplet between the plastic spacer and ball valve on the outside. I used teflon tape when connecting the brass fittings together, and I thought I screwed them in pretty tight. Where am I going wrong?
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Jun 18, 2011 19:49
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If the leak is evident between the plastic spacer and the ball valve, I have to suspect it's not coming from any leak in the plumbing itself, but from the space between the gaskets and O-rings and the nipple. Perhaps the O-rings aren't sealing tightly against the metal parts? If it didn't (appear to) leak in your test, it may have been leaking into the insulation in the cooler wall, or maybe just the change in temperature from putting a hot mash in it changed the shape/size of the parts enough to allow a tiny leak.
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Jun 18, 2011 21:20
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Made my first brew in a year or so, just done a bit of mead and wine between. This was made of random cheap stuff on sale, plus a new brewpot and wort chiller to break them in. 9.5 lbs pilsen malt 0.5 lbs biscuit malt 0.5 lbs crystal 40L 1 oz AHS magic hop dust (estimated 7%) at 60m 0.5 dust at 30m 0.25 dust at 15m 0.25 dust at 5m Sad thing with the magic dust is that if it comes out well I can't ever duplicate it, but really I can't complain about some $12 for a batch. The new chiller (25' x 3/8" as opposed to 50' x 1/4" with cheaper construction) worked well. A little faster, less hassle. The only problem was my new pot is 8 gal and very wide as opposed to 6 and narrow, so I didn't get a good rolling boil even across two burners of my little apartment stove and I lost less volume than planned so was closer to 6 gallons at the end than 5. Since my OG was still 1.054 or so I don't mind, though. I'm considering getting a Reflectix insulation wrap for the pot, though wondering how well it will work on a gas stove. Anyone have experience on that?
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Jun 19, 2011 01:54
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So, I've got some leftover crushed malt sitting around that I want to use up before it gets stale. The bag of vienna is actually 7.5lb of vienna and .5lb of munich, so I figure I'll mix it up fairly well and just make a hefeweizen with some munich in it. The little bit of leftover I'll just turn into starter wort or something. I've got a pound or so of crushed 2row sitting around too that'll be some more canned starter wort. Is there any place for a quarter to half an ounce of saaz or hallertauer somewhere after 60 minutes? I've actually never bothered making a wheat beer before :/ code:
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Jun 19, 2011 03:22
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Yeah, definitely do .25-.5oz at 15 and 5. Saaz is pretty gentle and a bit of noble hoppiness is definitely pleasant in a hefe. Extract batches are so easy. I knocked one out in about 2 hours, all I have left is to clean my strainer and wipe my kettle down. The process went so fast that I completely forgot to cool my wort down and pitched at 78*  . It's in the fridge now and since it's a wit I'm sure it'll be forgiving. I'll try fermenting it at 68* but I'm worried the 10* drop in temp will annoy the yeast.e: it's a wit I'm pitching some Brett L into in a couple days. I got the idea and just had to do it. I think it'll turn out good.
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Jun 19, 2011 21:00
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Fatherly duties meant I never had the chance to brew this weekend. I want to try to brew next weekend. That means that my grains for my first ever all grain batch will be two weeks old. What happens if you try to brew with grains older than a week? Does the beer just not taste as fresh as it could had you brewed with the ingredients sooner? Or could it be as bad as you'll hardly extract any fermentables out of the grains and end up with like 2% ABV watery beer? Obviously, I'm pretty ignorant this.
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Jun 20, 2011 02:19
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Dolemite posted:Fatherly duties meant I never had the chance to brew this weekend. I want to try to brew next weekend. That means that my grains for my first ever all grain batch will be two weeks old. You're fine. Keep them somewhere cool, dark and as airtight as possible, and don't worry about it.
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Jun 20, 2011 02:27
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Whisker Biscuit posted:You're fine. Keep them somewhere cool, dark and as airtight as possible, and don't worry about it.
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Jun 20, 2011 02:53
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