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Orgasm.
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Dec 11, 2018 00:56
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C-Bangin' it 
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Darchangel posted:Back when I was looking at brake upgrades for my Cutlass, first-gen 4-piston CTS-V Brembo calipers were amazingly cheap, literally the cheapest Brembo caliper available. How cheap (or "cheap") were those, if you don't mind my asking? I paid ~$225 each caliper. Normal price is about $100 more each.
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Dec 11, 2018 01:40
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Ok thanks all you guys for the help in ID’ing that carb. The base plate is wrong for my intake manifold so I decided to do a ghetto mechanical secondary/AP mod on my stock Nikki. Yes that’s a paper clip mechanically linking the secondaries to the throttle linkage. If I like this I’ll throw a spot of weld on there and make it permanent. Jeff20B took me for a ride in his car with a mechanical secondary carb installed. It's pretty silly when the secondaries come on, very binary. The instant go was unexpected. I'm pretty amazed by how much air a 12A will suck when you let it At which point do the secondaries come open with the paperclip? clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Dec 11, 2018 |
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Dec 11, 2018 02:58
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clutchpuck posted:Jeff20B took me for a ride in his car with a mechanical secondary carb installed. It's pretty silly when the secondaries come on, very binary. The instant go was unexpected. I'm pretty amazed by how much air a 12A will suck when you let it The paper clip wrapjob makes the secondaries come on just before the end of the primary accelerator pump travel, or so I hope. I extended the AP lever arm in hopes of slowing the speed of the injection but making the duration longer to bridge the gap between primary and secondary and avoid the switchover stumble. I’ll have to actually put the carb back on and give it a shot but it looks like the other temp/ghetto mechanical secondary mods I’ve seen; some with weld, some with wire, some with zip ties. Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Dec 11, 2018 |
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Dec 11, 2018 03:23
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I replaced some old green balls with some bigger new green balls   But failed to do the same in the back as those balls were pretty rusty  Gotta go back with some more heat and penetrant and try again.
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Dec 11, 2018 11:13
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drat, those are some rusty balls.
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Dec 11, 2018 11:25
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Mechanical secondaries in action. Apologies for the phone video. First impression: Car started easier, smoked less, and had better throttle response overall. https://youtu.be/ptT-mKYokio
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Dec 11, 2018 19:39
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Ok thanks all you guys for the help in ID’ing that carb. The base plate is wrong for my intake manifold so I decided to do a ghetto mechanical secondary/AP mod on my stock Nikki. Yes that’s a paper clip mechanically linking the secondaries to the throttle linkage. If I like this I’ll throw a spot of weld on there and make it permanent. I once rigged the secondaries on my '79 with one or two zip-ties. Worked great! After investigation, it turned out that I had gotten the base-plate to carb body gasket upside down when rebuilding the carb. Seems that the gasket is completely symmetrical - except for one, freaking hole (that they could have put on the other side as well to make the gasket foolproof - it was in a blank area on the other side.) Guess what they one hole did? Yep, vacuum to the secondary actuator. something to watch out for when you rebuild, there. doogle posted:I paid ~$225 each caliper. Normal price is about $100 more each. Not bad! Definitely cheap for new 6-piston Brembo calipers. clutchpuck posted:Jeff20B took me for a ride in his car with a mechanical secondary carb installed. It's pretty silly when the secondaries come on, very binary. The instant go was unexpected. I'm pretty amazed by how much air a 12A will suck when you let it Mechanical secondaries are definitely a kick in the pants. Dad has a Holley double pumper mechanical secondary carb on his '55 Chevy, and it was very noticeable when those other barrels came in. Shame that thing hasn't run in decades.
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Dec 11, 2018 20:33
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Darchangel posted:I once rigged the secondaries on my '79 with one or two zip-ties. Worked great! My dad and I were bitten by that one when dealing with quadrajet problems. Apparently after he'd had the original carb rebuild sometime in the late '80s, it always tended towards way too lean. 10 years later we swapped an Edelbrock quadrajet on it and it ran better. Threw the old carb (and gasket) in a box. At some point later on I was farting around with said carb and the gasket (I think I had the Edelbrock back off as well) and noticed a very small notch removed from between the secondaries on the old gasket, which was not present in the newer gasket. The baseplate of the carb had a set of very small passages there, which were exposed to manifold vacuum with the "lean" gasket, and sealed from it with the "good" gasket.
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Dec 11, 2018 20:45
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My current carb issue - which isn't a huge problem, as the car won't shift past 1st gear anyway - is that the accelerator pump on the Cutlass' Q-jet apparently doesn't work. Carb's been rebuilt (several times - it's never worked) so the pump itself is new, but I've never checked the specific passages for it. It's always been "<bog> -whaaaaaa!" if you just floor it. It'll need to be rebuilt again, anyway - it's been sitting for a long time. Diaphragm in the fuel pump is shot now, too. Piddled all over last time I moved the car.
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Dec 11, 2018 21:50
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 Before, stock brakes.  After, gen 2 CTS-V calipers and EBC redstuff pads/EBC slotted rotors.  Stock brake clearance with the stock wheel spokes  CTS-V caliper clearance with the stock wheel spokes after a 3mm spacer  And after the zinc coating was worn off.
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Dec 12, 2018 00:22
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How does the piston area compare? (what will it do to brake balance/feel)
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Dec 12, 2018 00:49
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I'm not sure how many versions of the gm 4 and 6-pots there are, but the numbers I have in my brake math spreadsheet give nearly the same piston area between the two with the 6-pot having a touch less. 42mm pistons on the 4-pot, 30, 34, 38 on the 6, for areas of 2770mm² and 2748 respectively. I do not no the rotor sizes and effective rotor areas between the two. There's a bracket to put the 4-pots on subarus since they are so much cheaper than oem sti brembos.
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Dec 12, 2018 01:42
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Swapped plates on my 88 Toyota 4x4 today. She turned 30 and was eligible for collector plates, so I found some WA 87-91 plates with tags for the month/year it was built. $30 extra and now its tabbed for life. Before (fronts)  After (rear only)  It only gets a couple thousand miles a year so I will probably put insurance on hold except when I need it. I'm not allowed to commute in it or haul commercial loads, which is fine becasue it rides like a brick. New springs, bushings and a couple of ball joints are going in next year. I need a decent chrome plate frame now. (and a respray)
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Dec 16, 2018 02:05
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Maybe see if you can get hagerty's insurance on it. It could end up at like $100 a year so you can just set it and forget it.
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Dec 16, 2018 02:18
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My State Farm guy is cool with me doing 3-day passes whenever I need to, and I pretty much know when I need it ahead of time. I had it on for a whole 3 months this year because I was building a shed and needed to make lumber runs. Bonus pic of 16ft 2x8's on a 14 ft truck 
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Dec 16, 2018 02:31
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Meydey posted:Swapped plates on my 88 Toyota 4x4 today. She turned 30 and was eligible for collector plates, so I found some WA 87-91 plates with tags for the month/year it was built. $30 extra and now its tabbed for life. Check out Hagerty insurance. They'll insure my RX7 for like $200/year. I got into both brake drums and disassembled one. They took some convincing with a hammer for the drums to break free. Un stuck the flare nuts on the left side. Gonna do em 1 at a time to let one serve as reference for the other. Also figured out a couple electronic faults. I was not getting temp or oil pressure on the dash and I found a loose X-08 connector. Wasn't energizing the C&C relay due to having it wired wrong. E: one wheel cylinder done. The shoes and drum looked fine so that's all I'm touching. gently caress return springs. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Dec 17, 2018 |
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Dec 16, 2018 18:33
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 Doing an engine swap in a single car garage is fun. Not pictured is the dolley I bought to roll the engine on that broke, forcing me to buy an engine stand. Still have to move a wardrobe to get the stand in its permanent home instead of it blocking me from moving the car.
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Dec 17, 2018 23:32
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clutchpuck posted:Check out Hagerty insurance. They'll insure my RX7 for like $200/year. Does Hagerty require garaging? That's my sticking point previously for my Cutlass. I need to do it and the SA22C RX-7 when I get that mobile. I've got 1970 plates for the Cutlass, need to find '79 stickered plates for the '7. edit: oh, cool, '79 Texas plates are still stamped year. Have to pick up a set at the next swap meet. Edit 2: er, nope. Those were for special plates. Normal passenger car plates were using stickers by '75. Ansith posted:
Can't wait to see it done. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Dec 18, 2018 |
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Dec 18, 2018 00:36
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Darchangel posted:Does Hagerty require garaging? Not sure but I imagine the premium would reflect the storage situation. FB update: it has brakes that work. I had a friend help me bleed them after replacing the left side wheel cylinder. Now both sides engage and disengage with pedal pressure. Just need to replace the diff oil and top up the gearbox and I'll feel pretty good about taking it for a ride around the cul de sac.
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Dec 18, 2018 06:16
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doogle posted:
Looks good. Also the size of the CTS-V ones make the stocks look small, and they are not. By a long ways.
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Dec 18, 2018 06:29
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 Stock exhaust is way too quiet on the ZL1. Much better now.
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Dec 18, 2018 19:16
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Well everything was going smooth on this transmission repair I've been putting off but gently caress this part in particular Brushed the connector retaining tabs ever-so-lightly with a screwdriver and 2 of em immediately crumbled off. Guess that's the first part on the list of "stuff I'll probably have to pay dealer parts price for"!
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Dec 18, 2018 19:56
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Got a new Mikuni VM22 and new chain installed on the kart.    The mikuni carb warms up a bit faster than the stock one but it’s still a little cold-blooded in general. Will be a ripper once it is warm and I actually remember to fill the gas can so I can run it for more than two minutes. Also got new wiper arms for the FB since when I bought it, there was only one. Gave them a quick hit with the flapper wheel and some trim paint. Gonna grab some blades tomorrow.   
Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Dec 19, 2018 |
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Dec 18, 2018 21:34
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That rust pitting is triggering me. I am eternally grateful I don't have to deal with that so much. Even so, my SA22C managed to rust around the drain plug in the driver's footwell, thanks to shot door seals, and in the lower rear quarter, thanks to the antenna leaking.
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Dec 19, 2018 00:46
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I discovered that the snow tires/rims from the 2012 Camry I got rid of a while ago are basically a perfect fit for my wifes 2018 Accord. I think the tires are 5 years old but only got driven 2 seasons and have been stored in a fairly decent spot the whole time so hopefully we can get at least 2 years out of them.
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Dec 19, 2018 01:06
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I got my broken dipstick out of my 300C. It wasn't that bad. A drywall screw and a small drill it did the trick.
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Dec 19, 2018 02:12
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bird with big dick posted:I discovered that the snow tires/rims from the 2012 Camry I got rid of a while ago are basically a perfect fit for my wifes 2018 Accord. If you stored them out of the sun they shouldn't be much worse now than they were when you put them away. For reference I got 8 seasons out of my last set of snow tires - running them roughly four months a year - and only had to retire them because they were starting to dry rot.
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Dec 19, 2018 05:32
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Some testing on the kart. GoPro says 34mph in the driveway on the last run. After that run it took a while to start up again because the plug was fouled, and my subsequent runs were sans GoPro but it definitely felt faster. https://youtu.be/We95C3YswAA
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Dec 19, 2018 22:54
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EvilBeard posted:I got my broken dipstick out of my 300C. It wasn't that bad. A drywall screw and a small drill it did the trick. Then you just repaired your dipstick. Anytime you want to check the oil, just use a pair of pliers on the screw.
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Dec 20, 2018 15:16
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Colostomy Bag posted:Then you just repaired your dipstick. Anytime you want to check the oil, just use a pair of pliers on the screw. A new one was $10. It just got brittle and snapped off. I'm not about that bandaid life with regards to maintenance. It's probably because maintenance is my job.
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Dec 20, 2018 15:44
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EvilBeard posted:A new one was $10. It just got brittle and snapped off. I'm not about that bandaid life with regards to maintenance. It's probably because maintenance is my job. Oh I know. I was just looking forward to the "fix" in the horrible mechanical failures thread years down the road after you sold your car. Edit: Should add while working on one of my son's previous cars one (Mazda) of the (I think vacuum hose) was pinched off with vise grips. Can't remember the exact details, but there was a fairly expensive solenoid body that isn't cheap so that's why they did it. Also had a wood screw in the other end of the vacuum tube. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Dec 20, 2018 |
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Dec 20, 2018 16:36
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Some testing on the kart. GoPro says 34mph in the driveway on the last run. After that run it took a while to start up again because the plug was fouled, and my subsequent runs were sans GoPro but it definitely felt faster. I want your shop and driveway.
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Dec 20, 2018 23:48
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I never really loved the old school style fusible links so I replaced them with modular ones. The green one is like 5 amp underrated? I guess it's better to play it safe.
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Dec 21, 2018 00:29
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What did did do was pick my Civic up from the Panelbeater after someone hit it with no note left I'm happy...minus the $400 hole in my wallet
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Dec 21, 2018 00:38
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Darchangel posted:I want your shop and driveway. We definitely lucked out with this house. I can’t afford to pave a 400ft driveway but it came this way so...
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Dec 21, 2018 00:42
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clutchpuck posted:I never really loved the old school style fusible links so I replaced them with modular ones. I picked up a 626 main fuse block to replace the fusible links in my '79. A little cleaner, but functionally the same. I didn't know that you could just shove fuses in place of the links like that at the time, or I'd have done that. I actually got my '79 cheap because someone didn't know that there were also two fusible links under the steering column for the ignition, and they couldn't get ti started after swapping engines. Mind you, they swapped an '81 engine into a '79, engine wiring harness and all (it plugged in!) so there were other issues, but that was why it didn't run. Imperador do Brasil posted:We definitely lucked out with this house. I can’t afford to pave a 400ft driveway but it came this way so... Hoping to find something like that in the next 10 years or so to retire to. I mean, I'll probably never retire, just die in the traces, but I'd like to be able to goof around with stuff out in the shop on my days off until I do so.
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Dec 21, 2018 00:58
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Darchangel posted:I didn't know that you could just shove fuses in place of the links like that at the time, or I'd have done that. For anyone curious, they are Bussman FLF-40 and FLF-20 fusible links. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CZ2Z7E https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CFBERG There wasn't anything wrong with my originals, they just look gross and ugly.
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Dec 21, 2018 01:04
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Darchangel posted:Hoping to find something like that in the next 10 years or so to retire to. I mean, I'll probably never retire, just die in the traces, but I'd like to be able to goof around with stuff out in the shop on my days off until I do so. We have a few acres, a small farmette, etc. with goats, chickens and rabbits. These are older pics but you can get a general idea. Where the Explorer is in the one pic is now a 12x20 shed with animal feed and hay and where we raise chicks In spring and summer but otherwise pretty similar. The RX7 lives in the detached garage with a bunch of bikes and the ATV and lawn equipment, but gets worked on in the attached garage which is quite a bit warmer in winter, and generally houses the FXT and all the tools, wheel and tire tracks, kart etc.  
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Dec 21, 2018 03:01
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Darchangel posted:Does Hagerty require garaging? They did when I first signed up with them. I suspect if you can show at least some protection of the car other than its own pitiful GM lock cylinders, they'll consider it.
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Dec 21, 2018 15:23
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