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No, not those. They were little circle stickers on jewelry, maybe a diameter of a centimeter or less. They were completely flat too, like paper. With those stickers you posted, you can kinda feel something underneath, or they have some kinda thickness. Also, yes, I have...? I know how those security tags usually work, it's just that these were so thin and tiny.
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Aug 3, 2013 20:02
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KillHour posted:Then I'm not sure why you were saying their system doesn't get false alarms from IR, because you don't actually know whether it does or not. Sounds like a misunderstanding, I just meant it never got false alarms, period. I never tried with IR or white light, i was just thinking that it is cheap and robust, and if it could start a camera recording, well, who cares about IR sensitivity when the PIR sensor has detected a real movement a few seconds before. The issue with the D-Link was just limited firmware: if the IR lamp came on only when the PIR sensor was triggered, it would work pretty well for me. Well, that and the bullshit of the PIR signal not being seen as a motion detection signal (it is on other cheaper d-link cameras, an extra check box in the motion detection tab).
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Aug 3, 2013 20:08
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Spatule posted:Sounds like a misunderstanding, I just meant it never got false alarms, period. I never tried with IR or white light, i was just thinking that it is cheap and robust, and if it could start a camera recording, well, who cares about IR sensitivity when the PIR sensor has detected a real movement a few seconds before. That still won't work. A PIR sensor doesn't detect motion at all. It detects body heat in the form of IR radiation. Any setup you use with IR lights is going to cause a false positive on the PIR sensor when they come on. The Axis camera is the only camera that will have the customizability to really do everything you asked. You could do an M1044-w instead of the M1134-l, but it doesn't have built in IR. http://www.a1securitycameras.com/axis-m1034-w-surveillance-network-security-camera.html?gclid=CIex9JyW4rgCFZKi4Aod4QsAew
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Aug 3, 2013 22:02
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KillHour posted:That still won't work. A PIR sensor doesn't detect motion at all. It detects body heat in the form of IR radiation. Any setup you use with IR lights is going to cause a false positive on the PIR sensor when they come on. The Axis camera is the only camera that will have the customizability to really do everything you asked. You could do an M1044-w instead of the M1134-l, but it doesn't have built in IR. Who cares if the PIR sensor wrongly detects presence again (yay for pedantry) because the IR light was switched on by it, after the PIR sensor detected that something was actually really going on ? I don't get it. You're already recording becuase someone is there, you'll record 5 seconds extra. Compare that to a real false positive twice a day or more : the light levels are down, the PIR sensor thinks someone is there because the stupid camera, which is not even recording, switches the IR lamp on. That's unacceptable and makes it useless. If you don't see the difference, then I understand why this industry puts out what it does on the market... Spatule fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Aug 4, 2013 |
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Aug 4, 2013 08:45
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Spatule posted:Who cares if the PIR sensor wrongly detects presence again (yay for pedantry) because the IR light was switched on by it, after the PIR sensor detected that something was actually really going on ? I don't get it. You're already recording becuase someone is there, you'll record 5 seconds extra. I absolutely see the difference between the camera turning the IR on because the light levels changed, and a camera turning the IR on because of detected motion on the PIR sensor. You want the latter, but you have to realize that the former is the desired behavior for 99.9% of all installations. There are a few very good reasons for this: - Most people want to check their cameras periodically. You can't do that if the IR isn't on all the time. - Turning on the IR will create a very sudden change from extremely dark to extremely bright. The cameras you are looking at have a fixed iris, meaning they are completely unable to adjust the amount of light coming in, and will have difficulty adjusting to this quickly enough. Expect to have 2-4 seconds of blinding white before you can see anything. - Typically, you set your camera to record 5-10 seconds BEFORE the motion was detected and 20-30 seconds after (cameras have a buffer that allows them to do this). You can't do that if you're turning the light on when motion is detected, since you'll just have darkness. - Tamper/vandal detection doesn't work in a setup like this. - Most people use video based motion detection instead of PIR, which obviously doesn't work in the dark. Video based motion detection will typically ignore the PIR coming on, but the change in brightness may set it off depending on how intelligent the camera is. My point is that the only camera I know of that can be set up the way you want it is an Axis camera. All other cameras that I've worked with (excluding a few that cost well over $1000) will switch the IR on when it gets dark, and this behavior cannot be modified (only disabled completely). Remember that you are doing something extremely unusual, and will need to spend extra money for the functionality you want. If you wanted to, you could also disable the IR light on the camera and have an external IR illuminator that is on 24x7. Since it would be on even during the day, it wouldn't set off the PIR, and the cut filter would prevent it from impacting image quality. Again, very very very few people care about a few false positives on occasion. The last customer I had that cared at all was a military base that was required to send out armed guards for every single detection event. They ended up using 3D laser scanners paired with thermal cameras and fiber-optic vibration detectors. The system cost several million dollars, but I don't think they've had a false positive yet. KillHour fucked around with this message at 10:25 on Aug 4, 2013 |
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Aug 4, 2013 10:09
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I think this would be a good time to do a breakdown of camera components and costs, since I can't seem to get any sleep. One of the questions I often get asked is "Why do cameras cost so much?" A lot of this comes down to a high margin for both the distributor and retailer, but most of it is because there are only a handful of companies that produce the most important camera components: the sensor and the lens. Most camera manufacturers don't make their own sensors and lenses. They are typically OEM'd from a few companies. Sony and Panasonic are the big names in sensors, while Theia and Fujinon are the major players in lenses. These costs are fixed, and so the manufacturer has no control over the baseline costs of these two components. Lets look at sensors. Most companies don't publish sensor prices, but here's a fairly typical entry-level 720p 30fps sensor from a US manufacturer: http://avnetexpress.avnet.com/store...1&page=1&rank=2 If you buy in bulk, you can get the price down to $135 per sensor. This is generally in line with the sensor on a mid-range camera. Large manufacturers can negotiate for better pricing, but you typically don't see much less than $90 per sensor unless you look at extremely cheap (as in low quality) sensors. The general rule for a camera is that the lens should cost the same as the rest of the camera combined. So when you buy a camera from a well-regarded manufacturer, the lens is typically about half the cost (not including markup). If you're trying to figure out why a no-name Korean camera is so much cheaper, it's because they cheaped out on the lens and you're going to get a poo poo image. Here's a typical Fuji lens: http://www.123securityproducts.com/5502-751.html?gclid=CNebidrE47gCFQ2f4Aod6wIAVg So for our theoretical camera, we're at about $250-$300 before we even start building the thing. Add in another $50-$100 for the rest of the camera components and a 50% markup (10% for the manufacturer, 15% for the distributor, 25% for the reseller), and you have a $450-$600 720p camera. Oh, hey, look: http://www.posglobal.com/axc-0341-001.html http://www.123securityproducts.com/nbn-733v-p.html?gclid=CL7h_-fG47gCFYak4AodEHwAnA http://www.alldataresource.com/product.asp?itemid=113580&gclid=CNTZ7YjH47gCFVLxOgodEAkAnQ http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=981174&is=REG&Q=&A=details Edit: As an aside, this is why you don't see the market flooded with 14-20 megapixel cameras like they throw in cell phones - the lenses aren't clear enough for the extra pixels to make a difference. I had a fun conversation with Axis about what would be needed for an UHD security camera. Here's what movie studios use for 4K (8.8MP) video cameras: http://www.fujifilmusa.com/shared/bin/14.5-45%20mm%20T2.0%20Cut%20Sheet%20hires.pdf Here's how much it costs: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=840519&Q=&is=REG&A=details KillHour fucked around with this message at 11:36 on Aug 4, 2013 |
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Aug 4, 2013 11:08
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Thank you guys for the replies & advice. I had forgotten about the FTP idea completely. Even the FOSCAM, or rather, knock off of FOSCAM camera that I tried out had a lot of useful features. These included WPA2, FTP on trigger, SD card, IR cut and customisable motion detection areas. Oh, and being able to talk through the network/internet BACK into the camera was just a deal sealer for me. "Hey. Yeah, you, fuckface. Get out of my house immediately and I might not come and find *your* house and visit *you*". Yeah like it would ever play out that way, but hey, it's a cool trick no matter what. For ~$120-150 AUD they really do have a large feature set - the problem is the quality is bad. I had a 720p "HD" model, and the image quality really wasn't that bad - the only issue I ran into was not being able to get a firmware update. The obviously shady company (Wanview) has an issue with giving out firmware (!), and you pretty much have to beg their support email person (who will ignore your emails 99% of the time). What I gather is that they are ripping the firmware off the already ripped off FOSCAM units, explaining their odd version of post-sales support. That firmware update was allegedly what I needed to fix up an issue with WPA2 PSK where the pre-shared key was longer than ~32 characters, therefore unable to save properly in the config file. That was an issue in a rental property where I couldn't drop ethernet cables into the walls/roof. However, even that issue disappears now that I can use cables. Nonetheless, I was able to at least prove that the dog was responsible for pissing on the carpet - clearing the poor kitty's good name and allowing re-training to be dispensed correctly. I had the camera set up for a basic test run and, hilariously, there were several videos of the cat and dog intermittently having play fights every couple of hours or so. And a spider just strolling past the camera  .I'm either going to have to go ghetto cheap, or try and save up for the non-ghetto suggested ideas you guys mentioned - but the risk is that I never get around to it/afford it. I do have a server running 24/7 for various purposes - and it is easily well spec'd enough for capturing video.
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Aug 4, 2013 11:11
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I'm a homeowner in Hawaii and just signed up for a vivint contract and would like to know if I got a decent deal or not. My neighbor refereed the rep to me, so the 3 day cancellation clause applies. I'm gonna be paying a $198 activation fee and a monthly charge of $63.60 after taxes with a 5 year contract. No installation charges or equipment fees. Equipment included is the "GO!Control & Siren", 12 door or window sensors, 1 Automatic door lock, 1 inside home fixed video camera, 1 motion sensor, 1 smoke sensor, and 1 light up lawn sign. From what I have googled, I will be able to add on and use any third party modules that use Z-Wave communication technology. Total price with the "free" monitoring is $4,014 for 5 years of monitoring.
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Aug 14, 2013 09:04
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1: What is this system primarily being used for? (Are you trying to deter thieves? Have footage to give to police if there's a break in? Find out which neighbor's dog is digging up your flower bed?) A project I can do at work - the primary goal of the system is to let me know when someone approached the entrance to my shop so if there is any tom foolery going on we can stow it before someone walks in. 2: What is your budget? What is the value of the property you are trying to protect? I'd like to spend no more than $300. I understand this is a lovely budget, but my goals are a lot different than most and the quality of video I need is lower as well. The only thing I'm trying to prevent is an rear end chewing. 3: How long would you like to keep recordings for? I don't need any recording capabilities, TBH. I would like to be able to monitor everyone who approaches my shop, and get a possible audio warning as well as view it on the network. 4: How dark does it get at night? There is a large amount of flood lighting and reflected ambient light at my locaiton - I never need a flashlight to walk where I am going. My 'high risk' times are all during daylight hours anyway, night time operation is a secondary consideration. 5: Do you leave your computer on 24x7? That isn't a problem. 6: How large of an area are you trying to cover? (Is your front yard 30 ft wide or 300 ft wide?) I have attached a lovely MSpaint with approximate proportions. My building is pretty much only approachable from one way, indicated in red (18 feet across). I am primarily trying to cover this approach with enough clarity to pick out two or three very distinct individuals who are pretty much physically distinct from the normal traffic in my shop. I don't know how much help you can be here (primarily because I am working far below your usual budgets with equipment you probably wouldn't touch with a 10 foot pole), but I am interested in hearing your thoughts. Some considerations besides what are listed is that I am in a very hot desert environment (though it is cooling off) - we have days at 120 defrees F pretty often, though it is getting cooler. Lots of dust also. So I am looking at a somewhat weatherproof outdoor camera. As long as it lasts ~6 months I will be happy. I have been looking at both analog and IP cameras on Amazon, and a lot of them look like complete poo poo. However there are a few with very good reviews on the analog side (as long as you don't get one that is DOA): link I am sure you are shuddering, but it has a lot of good reviews from people who slum it on the low end of security cameras. Looking to pick up some BNC cable and a DVR unit - probably this: link. Any advice on a different unit under $150 (diskless is fine) would be appreciated, as would an IP cam under $200 rated for outdoor use that would suit my needs.
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Aug 14, 2013 10:17
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Ceros_X posted:1: What is this system primarily being used for? (Are you trying to deter thieves? Have footage to give to police if there's a break in? Find out which neighbor's dog is digging up your flower bed?) A DVR or capture card is probably going to stretch your budget too far for an analog camera to make much sense, unless you want to hook it up directly to a TV with composite input. http://www.amazon.com/Female-Jack-Male-Plug-Adapters/dp/B002A65U98/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376486225&sr=8-1&keywords=bnc+to+rca As for an IP option, this is the cheapest outdoor one I can think of that will handle the heat: http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.as...rce=google_base http://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/airvision/airVision_ds.pdf Personally, I'd just do this: http://www.amazon.com/A3-DIGITAL-MOTION-SENSOR-ALARM-CHIME/dp/B0045U59D4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1376486717&sr=8-3&keywords=pir+chime The Gardenator posted:I'm a homeowner in Hawaii and just signed up for a vivint contract and would like to know if I got a decent deal or not. My neighbor refereed the rep to me, so the 3 day cancellation clause applies. I don't know a ton about retail pricing for home security services. I can build you a system with all of that for much less than $4k, but there won't be someone on the other end to call the cops when the alarm goes off. I guess it depends on what that's worth to you. KillHour fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Aug 14, 2013 |
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Aug 14, 2013 14:29
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KillHour posted:A DVR or capture card is probably going to stretch your budget too far for an analog camera to make much sense, unless you want to hook it up directly to a TV with composite input. The camera you linked looks good - I think I'll pick it up and give it a shot, actually! The motion sensor is fine and all, but I have a lot of traffic coming in and out and it would be going off all the time - I really need to be able to see if the people coming in are higher ups, not be notified about every person coming my way without a way to ID them. I'll report back with my experience on the Aircam (might actually get two - didn't see anything with these specs at this price on Amazon). Thanks!
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Aug 14, 2013 17:32
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Ceros_X posted:The camera you linked looks good - I think I'll pick it up and give it a shot, actually! Please do. I don't carry Ubiquiti and have never used them, so I'd love to hear what you think.
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Aug 14, 2013 17:41
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The Gardenator posted:I'm a homeowner in Hawaii and just signed up for a vivint contract and would like to know if I got a decent deal or not. My neighbor refereed the rep to me, so the 3 day cancellation clause applies. Sorry I noticed the questions you asked to the first reply to your OP but thought it was just for that reply. 1: What is this system primarily being used for? (Are you trying to deter thieves? Have footage to give to police if there's a break in? Find out which neighbor's dog is digging up your flower bed?) Deter thieves with door and window sensors. I want to be able to lock down house both while we are home at night and when we are not home. I also want to have a cheap monitoring service hooked up to a smoke alarm. 2: What is your budget? What is the value of the property you are trying to protect? My house was just bought this year and it's a fixer upper. I have already allocated money to other parts of my house, but if I have to I could shift it till next year. My budget is around 1200 but if it's worth it I could spend more. I would prefer to add on to it in sections if that is the case. Around 3: How long would you like to keep recordings for? I'm not really interested in video at this time. If anything, high res still pictures would be better and if needed storage for no longer than a month. 4: How dark does it get at night? It's very dark the closest street light is two houses away. 5: Do you leave your computer on 24x7? I can if needed. 6: How large of an area are you trying to cover? (Is your front yard 30 ft wide or 300 ft wide?) I'm going to install motion lights around the perimeter of my house.
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Aug 14, 2013 20:21
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KillHour posted:Please do. I don't carry Ubiquiti and have never used them, so I'd love to hear what you think. I had a little trouble getting the camera shipped to my FPO box so I called SolidSignal to manually process the order - apparently they are out of stock on those models but are accepting pre-orders for late August, and everyone wants them (but the rep said they were obsolete? lol). I googled up some other stocking stores but if you have a recommendation I'll use them - otherwise Google Shopping Roulette.
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Aug 14, 2013 20:48
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Did you ever do any work involving stun or stun-lethal electrical fencing for perimeter security?
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Aug 24, 2013 13:29
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Three-Phase posted:Did you ever do any work involving stun or stun-lethal electrical fencing for perimeter security? No, I have not. I'm sure as an electrical guy, you know way more about those things than I do. Doing stuff like that would step over my personal morality line, and would open up WAY too much liability for my company. As a general rule, I don't do any work in suppression, only detection and deterrence. Edit: I lied. I set up a cattle fence for my friend that we found in an old garage. We then got really drunk and took turns pissing on it. That's the extent of my experience, though.
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Aug 24, 2013 17:59
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Okay, need some recommendations here. I bought a Zmodo DVR system that used the BNC connectors to run some cameras. I still have two cameras to install, and they're pretty poo poo quality. That is an aside though. The DVR itself promptly poo poo the bed and I'm not going to gently caress with Zmodo support to get it RMA'd or whatever. Is there a good recommendation for a good DVR system that can be possibly set up to remote, that used BNC connectors and also has a possible way to include IP cameras? preview edit: Typing this I feel like I've already asked this. Now watch me look like a retard. real edit: wasn't in this thread if I did.
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Oct 18, 2013 02:37
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Gothmog1065 posted:Okay, need some recommendations here. I bought a Zmodo DVR system that used the BNC connectors to run some cameras. I still have two cameras to install, and they're pretty poo poo quality. That is an aside though. The DVR itself promptly poo poo the bed and I'm not going to gently caress with Zmodo support to get it RMA'd or whatever. The one thing to note is that you're likely looking at a cost jump. The lowest end IP kit I know of is the Q-See HD one and that's going to run ~$699. That's four cameras and an NVR. It's not going to support your existing analog cameras. They have an 8 channel version but that's going ~$1200. To add the analog cameras, you'll either need an encoder or hybrid unit. The Axis M7014 is as cheap as encoders get and it's generally ~$450 or so. Hybrid units will be a lot more. There are analog cameras I'd spend the money to hook up to an encoder or hybrid unit but the Zmodo ones should probably be tossed. Ideally with great force.
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Oct 21, 2013 15:39
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Gothmog1065 posted:Okay, need some recommendations here. I bought a Zmodo DVR system that used the BNC connectors to run some cameras. I still have two cameras to install, and they're pretty poo poo quality. That is an aside though. The DVR itself promptly poo poo the bed and I'm not going to gently caress with Zmodo support to get it RMA'd or whatever. Sorry for taking a couple days to respond, I missed this in my subscriptions. I'd agree with Thomamelas on this one. The cameras you have are junk, and getting a hybrid NVR or encoders is going to cost more than the cameras did in the first place. The cheapest hybrid system I know of is this Toshiba: http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Surveillix-EHV4-120-Digital-Recorder/dp/B00814SJPK It only supports 4 cameras (IP or analog) and has some pretty severe restrictions (IP cameras can't be viewed locally - remote only).
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Oct 21, 2013 18:36
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Do you know anything about car dash cams? Apologies if it's too off-topic. I've been interested in getting one but there's a million out there and they're all made by Asian companies I've never heard of and reviews are often all over the place for the same model.
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Oct 22, 2013 08:08
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I don't know of any discussion on SA, but there is a massive thread on Whirlpool.net.au (Aussie forum) http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=1952995 It's still clear as mud though.
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Oct 22, 2013 08:19
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Thanks. I also found dashcamtalk.com, which was quite helpful. Coincidentally, just tonight I had some idiot with out of state plates and a giant, painfully bright GPS slapped right in the center of his windshield try to run me off the road by turning into my (outer) lane in a 2-lane left turn. Then he proceeded to get onto the freeway at 40 MPH. I went ahead and purchased a DOD Ls300w off Amazon. If it ever gets here (shipping tomorrow but will take "17-28 business days"?! Must literally be taking a ship from China) maybe I'll start a dashcams thread if anyone is interested.
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Oct 23, 2013 04:11
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its HIM posted:Thanks. I also found dashcamtalk.com, which was quite helpful. I don't know a ton about dash-cams (The closest I come is ruggedized security cameras for public transport), but I work with a Ukrainian guy who I'm willing to bet knows at least a little about them. I'll ask him about it tomorrow at work.
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Oct 23, 2013 05:20
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its HIM posted:Thanks. I also found dashcamtalk.com, which was quite helpful. That'd be good, please do.
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Oct 24, 2013 14:22
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I have literally no experience with dash cams but I would look into a GoPro. They are pretty awesome and are used in a lot more rugged environments than inside your car. They also have wireless modules and whatnot. On another note, the Ubiquiti Aircam that we discussed earlier finally shipped (apparently it was a preorder only thing everywhere). They shipped it via FedEx, adult signature required. My wife was at work when it came and the next day they sent it back to SolidSignal. To SolidSignal's credit, they reshipped it back using USPS without me even having to call them. Once I get it in and have a chance to mess with it I will post my experiences.
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Oct 25, 2013 07:08
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I have a couple of GoPros, and they are useful in the right scenario. As a dash cam? You will need to remember to charge the battery, keep the memory card clean, turn it on each time you start the car, start recording each time you start the car, remove the card anytime something of interest happens, edit out the :05 of something interesting happening (out of hours of the same angle of nothing happening), archive that, find a way to catalog it so you can find it if you need it, put the card back in before your next car trip, format it again....meanwhile, remember there is no LCD screen, so each time you TOUCH it (start/stop, on/off, remove mem card, adjust angle, etc) you need to re-aim it somehow... and you have no screen with which to effort that. Perhaps I am just an old fuddy duddy, but what I don't need is one more thing to gently caress with in my life. Even as an action cam, it's a PITA. As a dash cam... buy a dash cam.
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Oct 25, 2013 07:54
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Okay, let's try this a bit differently. No P/DVR, is there a good straight IP solution? I'd like 2-4 cameras, just something I could look at while at work to see who is at the front door, etc, with the possiblity of upgrading to a PVR in the future? NOt like it matters much, I would be replacing some current dome cameras that use BNC and a power adapter (12V 3A barrel style), and I could use the power on that one as a supply/backup if necessary. e: Don't think it makes much of a difference, but the 12V/3A does split into 4 power adapters, not sure how much that would affect actual draw. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Nov 2, 2013 |
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Nov 2, 2013 19:57
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http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat...CFQto7AodPGYARA Is about as cheap an IP bundle as they get. But it's going to use completely different wiring. You can do IP over Coax but it's extremely rare for a home user to have the budget for that. Those units are meant for situations where running new cable extremely difficult or impossible.
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Nov 3, 2013 01:56
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You might also want to look at the Ubiquiti Aircam or the d-link cloud cameras. Those will be low cost, and can have an NVR or recording software added later.
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Nov 3, 2013 05:09
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KillHour posted:You might also want to look at the Ubiquiti Aircam or the d-link cloud cameras. Those will be low cost, and can have an NVR or recording software added later. The Ubiquiti Aircam stuff has issues. They have a weird proprietary PoE injector and their NVR software is a resource hog. Their wireless stuff is nice but their cameras are a generation or two away from being useable.
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Nov 3, 2013 06:18
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Thomamelas posted:The Ubiquiti Aircam stuff has issues. They have a weird proprietary PoE injector and their NVR software is a resource hog. Their wireless stuff is nice but their cameras are a generation or two away from being useable. The proprietary PoE isn't a huge issue in a home environment since most people don't have PoE switches lying around. I've never used the software, so I couldn't comment on that, but it looked like he just wants to view the camera through the web interface, not record. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Nov 3, 2013 15:15
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KillHour posted:The proprietary PoE isn't a huge issue in a home environment since most people don't have PoE switches lying around. I've never used the software, so I couldn't comment on that, but it looked like he just wants to view the camera through the web interface, not record. Correct me if I'm wrong. For now, yes. I'd like to get a PVR of some sort later on, but I'm looking at cost right now, and just having it available would be nice. I can rerun ethernet if necessary, is there something out of the ordinary for their POE? I'd probably acquire and run some CAT6 to where the camera would be. On that subject, I'm assuming running CAT would be the most versatile solution for a camera and possible future upgrades?
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Nov 3, 2013 19:09
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Gothmog1065 posted:For now, yes. I'd like to get a PVR of some sort later on, but I'm looking at cost right now, and just having it available would be nice. The major thing with the Ubiquiti cameras is that they use passive (proprietary) PoE, so they won't work with 802.3AF/802.3AT compliant injectors/switches. Unless you happen to already HAVE a PoE switch, it hardly matters. The major complaint I've heard about them is that the image quality just isn't there. But for the cost, you can't really expect much.
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Nov 3, 2013 22:13
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I have ADT at my house and recently upgraded to Pulse (I'm an ADT employee, so the discount is even cheaper with pulse than regular was with my USAA discount). I want to know what 3rd party cameras I can use with the system. I have an Axis 214 PTZ sitting in a closet (from a previous job) but I'd like to be able to log into my pulse and check things out, as well as record when people walk by my house. ADT Pulse may not be the best way to achieve this, so I'm open to other options. I recently joined NextDoor.com to check out what's going on in our neighborhood, and it seems the neighborhood not too far from where I live has had a string of burglaries. Fortunately, some of the people had security cameras which recorded the cars and people and they were able to be tracked down. Unfortunately for us, we live right next to a bus stop and people come in and out of our alley next to our house because of this.
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Nov 4, 2013 18:10
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raej posted:I have ADT at my house and recently upgraded to Pulse (I'm an ADT employee, so the discount is even cheaper with pulse than regular was with my USAA discount). According to the ADT site it look like they want you to get the cameras from them but they mention Sercomm cameras being compatible on other parts. If you want to do just one camera then look at Dropcam.
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Nov 4, 2013 19:41
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1: What is this system primarily being used for? (Are you trying to deter thieves? Have footage to give to police if there's a break in? Find out which neighbor's dog is digging up your flower bed?) Provide forensic footage after the fact to identify and prosecute. It's a small town and most of my stuff is hard to fence. Ideally I'd like a security system with glass break and door sensors that's able to text me about a break in and send me motion detection stills without sounding an alarm. Calling the police after verifying a break-in will end up with about 2-5 squad cars at your doorstep inside 5 minutes. Bonus points if you have a clear enough picture to tell they're armed, or be able to reasonably suspect such. 2: What is your budget? What is the value of the property you are trying to protect? Budget for an alarm system and security cameras is $3-5k. Total property they could wander off with if they had a regular truck is 20-45k. It's all insured and backed up offsite, but there is no real way to increase the physical security of the property without a fairly hefty remodel, so a mugshot and some jailtime after the fact is about the best I can do. 3: How long would you like to keep recordings for? I have a 50 TB SAN, so storage space won't be an issue, likewise a VM running the security software won't be a big deal. 4: How dark does it get at night? We have a street light in the front yard, and a big flood in the back yard, so not too dark. I can always at motion detector flood lights to avoid dealing with lovely halfassed IR NV systems. 5: Do you leave your computer on 24x7? Yep! A whole rack of them! 6: How large of an area are you trying to cover? (Is your front yard 30 ft wide or 300 ft wide?) I live in a cul-de-sac, so there is a limited space they can be and still park near my house. I'd like a fairly subtle outdoor camera able to make out plates at ~50 feet. It's a split level house with an entry way, and a raised deck, so unless they kick in a windows and ingress/egress through it, they have to enter one doorway, or ascend 1 staircase. Less than 10 feet between the camera location and head height at the doorway or staircase. Disguised or otherwise subtle cameras would be ideal. Being the creepy neighbor with the really obvious camera system makes people wonder what I have worth stealing.
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Nov 11, 2013 09:04
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KillHour posted:The major complaint I've heard about them is that the image quality just isn't there. But for the cost, you can't really expect much. I've been pretty pleased with the image quality from my Aircam Domes. Granted I was upgrading from an old SD system. I do wish they had some sort of IR, but we keep enough lights on 24/7 where it's not a big deal. I've heard the new version of their AirVision NVR is supposed to be considerably better about resources. I've got everything set up with BlueIris though, so I'm not sure there. I will say I've been happy with my system.
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Nov 12, 2013 20:55
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I was browsing security cameras on Amazon and found some fairly high priced ones that I do not see much special about. What makes this camera worth 3400€, for example? Is it the fancy zoom lens? Or is that just a crazy price by some shady retailer? I would never buy such an expensive product, just was surprised by the price... Overall, what contributes to a camera's price? Are there special features that I should expect to add a hefty sum? Like PTZ and so forth? How do I know I am getting my money's worth?
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Nov 29, 2013 19:07
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EssOEss posted:I was browsing security cameras on Amazon and found some fairly high priced ones that I do not see much special about. What makes this camera worth 3400€, for example? Is it the fancy zoom lens? Or is that just a crazy price by some shady retailer? I would never buy such an expensive product, just was surprised by the price... The Q6042-E is an EXTREMELY high end camera. I'm not sure what cameras typically cost in Europe, but 3K+ USD wouldn't be out of line for a camera like that. The main features that make that camera stand out: - Able to zoom in on and track people and vehicles automatically (This actually works, but seems to have terrible ADHD). - Continuous 360 degree rotation - High durability motor/drive system so the camera can operate on a continuous guard tour (moving automatically on a schedule) - Built-in processor for onboard analytics; Includes Object Removed, Enter/Exit Detection, Fence/Tripwire Detection, Object/People Counting and Highlight Compensation - Built-in g-force sensor for tamper detection - Built-in image stabilization and fog compensation - Brand new - nobody has them in stock yet - Says "Axis" on the front I see cameras like that a lot in borders, seaports, airports, etc. As a rule: IP cameras cost 5-10x what an analog camera would. PTZ IP cameras are automatically $1,000+. Cameras with built-in analytics = $$$. HD fixed cameras aren't much more expensive than SD fixed cameras. HD PTZ cameras are double the cost of SD PTZ cameras. Expensive fixed cameras have better lenses and build quality than cheap fixed cameras. Well-known camera brands are more expensive. They also work with most software. Obscure brands are generally less expensive (except for boutique brands like Scallop), but the software won't recognize them 90% of the time. HDR = $$$. If a camera says "HDR" or "WDR" but is <$800, it's probably a bullshit lie. KillHour fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Nov 29, 2013 |
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Nov 29, 2013 19:24
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I'm a little spooked right now so forgive me if I ramble. Had a woman show up on my front door step, asking to use the phone or get a ride. I only opened the door a jar to talk to her and offered to call her a taxi. It's really cold out and she said she needed a place to get warm. As I was calling, I noticed I had a package from UPS sitting by the door. But she had the screen open which blocked it so I couldn't just reach down and grab it. And you guessed it, when I opened the door again to get her name, she was gone with my package. I ran down the street and caught her as she was heading down some steps to the main road. I told her to give it back and she did with some cursing about how cold she was. Long story short, I got the fuzz on the line and they're out looking for her now. So as I'm coming down from my adrenaline high, I'm wondering if I should get a camera setup or a full alarm system. We have a bunch of computers that would suck to lose although I'm more concerned about my pets and my wife's safety. On the plus side, we do have a dog but she's a corgi. Although she sounds like a big dog, she'll turn into a puddle of cuteness as soon as strangers come in the house. So basically, I don't know if being freaked out about this is making me over paranoid or if I really should be looking into some regular security, or at least something that will put my mind at ease. My first thought is that she'll be back with her druggy boyfriends to ransack my house. My wife has mobility issues and occasionally works from home. It chills me to the bone thinking of her safety if this chick decides to get revenge when I'm not home. 1. Deterring thieves would be great. 2. Budget: I could spend a few hundred dollars but don't want to go overboard. Alternatively, I could pay a monthly fee of around 50 bucks although I'd prefer to avoid that if I can. Also, my neighbor is an electrician who recently setup a full security system for his house. He could help me install stuff. 3. I work from late morning until early evening (six hours plus travel time). If this hadn't been my day off, I would have been at work when this chick ran off with my package. If I go with motion sensor, my only concern would be the wind setting it off. 4. I have a porch light over my front door. It's not bright but it does illuminate the deck area about 5-6 feet out from the door. 5. I have one computer (an Apple) that I leave on all the time. It's hooked up to my TV for streaming. 6. There's no easy way to get onto my property except up the driveway which is only 10-20 feet from my front door. It's a pretty narrow point of entry and could be covered by a camera through my front picture window. EDIT: After reading through the thread, I'm thinking I could just get something like this and put it in the window, so people see it when they walk up to the front door. http://www.a1securitycameras.com/axis-m1034-w-surveillance-network-security-camera.html?gclid=CIex9JyW4rgCFZKi4Aod4QsAew inkblottime fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Feb 7, 2014 |
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Feb 6, 2014 23:59
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