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duep posted:I just switched to winter tires after having to replace a pair because of a nail and what is the first thing I notice when I remove my summer proxes ? You've guessed it. A two inch long nail stuck in the front left tire. Goddamn contractors too stupid to clean after themselves. I hope they all get jumped in a dark alley, get stabbed in the guts, get their eyes gorged out and finally get urinated on. bear scrylls fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Oct 12, 2008 |
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Oct 12, 2008 02:13
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duep posted:I just switched to winter tires after having to replace a pair because of a nail and what is the first thing I notice when I remove my summer proxes ? You've guessed it. A two inch long nail stuck in the front left tire. Goddamn contractors too stupid to clean after themselves. I hope they all get jumped in a dark alley, get stabbed in the guts, get their eyes gorged out and finally get urinated on. There are contractors at our place right now. As soon as they cleared out of the garage I swept it out thoroughly. They came back two weeks later to finish the little piddly things that you always find after they leave, and sure enough after they left the driveway had two or three screws. Both my roommate and I run full-slick R-compounds on the two cars that are garaged so it really pisses me off. They look at me like I'm nuts when I'm out there with a pushbroom as they are leaving, and I look at them like they are loving assholes.
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Oct 12, 2008 06:18
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BTW Savington - I'm an idiot.
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Oct 12, 2008 08:51
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I just found out one of my wheel studs has come off after the shakedown drive for the new window regulator. Is this the right replacement stud? http://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/productdetail.php?productid=58 I coul also get one from Rosenthal Mazda for a bit more: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16348&cat=0&page=1 Is this a replacement I could do myself? I haven't found instructions for it specific to the Miata, but I'm not sure it'd be that different from other cars. Either way, it seems just a touch out of my comfort zone. edit: from poking around, both options seem fine, specifically since the ART site's wording is "for 1.6 rear hubs", and the 1.6 was discontinued in 94. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Oct 13, 2008 |
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Oct 12, 2008 20:10
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iscariot posted:BTW Savington - I'm an idiot. You are one dumb motherfucker. Haven't you seen the thread online calling all of those products total poo poo? Goon insurance service: Send them all to me and I will give you 10% of what you paid for them.
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Oct 12, 2008 20:14
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Can anybody recall off hand what weight fluids to use in a 94M trans/diff?
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Oct 12, 2008 22:13
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75/90! I use 1 quart MTL 1 quart MT90 in my trans and 80/90GL5 in my diff. Anyone see this yet? I'm still waiting for the classes to be finalized because I'm one point out of street class and far too slow to compete in modified. https://www.miatachallenge.com
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Oct 13, 2008 08:31
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Schwack posted:Can anybody recall off hand what weight fluids to use in a 94M trans/diff?
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Oct 13, 2008 09:12
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Dicker posted:75/90! My daily-driven full interior car is in Unlimited/Open 
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Oct 13, 2008 10:43
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My wife is out of town and took the 92x, so I have my old Miata for the next month, and I've realised just how much work it needs. it's a 96 NA, with lots of the usual issues - the steering wheel is disintegrating, the clutch master cylinder (or maybe the slave) is leaking, and I just discovered that the connectors for the screenwasher lines are buggered - the Y joint that goes to the first wash nozzle disintegrated in my hand when I popped the bonnet to see why they weren't working. Since it's 12 years old I also need to do something about the suspension - what does everyone recommend for a daily driver that realistically spends its entire life in town? Will I need to have all the bushings replaced as well as the shocks? Do I need new springs too?
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Oct 13, 2008 16:18
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Savington posted:My daily-driven full interior car is in Unlimited/Open 
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Oct 13, 2008 16:31
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Dr JonboyG posted:Since it's 12 years old I also need to do something about the suspension - what does everyone recommend for a daily driver that realistically spends its entire life in town? Will I need to have all the bushings replaced as well as the shocks? Do I need new springs too? I don't know about bushings but Tokico Illumina shocks paired with shorter softer FatCatMotorsport bumpstops all around drastically improved my ride quality. I also hit the bumpstops them way less.
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Oct 13, 2008 17:08
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Next question - the previous owner had a wet cell battery (of course) which I replaced with an AGM WestCo a few years ago. As might be expected, there's pretty bad corrosion in the trunk, which I've been too stupid to take care of until now. What's the best way to deal with it?
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Oct 13, 2008 19:15
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Dr JonboyG posted:Next question - the previous owner had a wet cell battery (of course) which I replaced with an AGM WestCo a few years ago. As might be expected, there's pretty bad corrosion in the trunk, which I've been too stupid to take care of until now. What's the best way to deal with it? I'd probably go at it with a wire wheel and then primer and paint it on my car, but if it was a black car I'd probably just wire wheel it then paint it with por15. in other news i just got a Westco battery on thursday and it is so much nicer than my old rear end panasonic AGM that was in there. Also transmission noise is greatly reduced when you filly the tranny all the way.
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Oct 14, 2008 00:06
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I filled a tranny up all the way once... How much does a new OEM clutch cost? Installation?
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Oct 14, 2008 00:14
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Phone posted:I filled a tranny up all the way once... Finishline sells the clutch kit for $100 bucks. http://finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16410&cat=0&page=1 Don't know what installation would run a couple hundred probably. If you have the time/space/tools you could do it in an afternoon yourself.
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Oct 14, 2008 00:36
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Phone posted:How much does a new OEM clutch cost? Installation? I've been keeping tabs on this as well. OEM-style clutch is $100 from Rosenthal: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16410&cat=320&page=1 $200 for actual OEM: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16869&cat=320&page=1 arggggg beaten. kimbo305 posted:I just found out one of my wheel studs has come off ... Last try with this. Anyone done it themselves before?
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Oct 14, 2008 00:40
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kimbo305 posted:I've been keeping tabs on this as well. OEM-style clutch is $100 from Rosenthal: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16410&cat=320&page=1 The actual OEM is a waste of money, they'll both do the same exact job exactly the same. As for the stud they should just press out. I don't know how difficult it is though as I have never done it. Hammering it would leave you liable to damage the wheel bearing so you might need a puller or some sort of weird c clamp arrangement.
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Oct 14, 2008 00:45
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FireTora posted:As for the stud they should just press out. I don't know how difficult it is though as I have never done it. Hammering it would leave you liable to damage the wheel bearing so you might need a puller or some sort of weird c clamp arrangement. I've found a trusted shop so I wouldn't mind ponying up for a carefully done job. I just wasn't sure if this was something I could hamfist my way through without fear of denting something important.
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Oct 14, 2008 00:57
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FireTora posted:I'd probably go at it with a wire wheel and then primer and paint it on my car, but if it was a black car I'd probably just wire wheel it then paint it with por15. It is indeed black - thanks for the advice. It gets better - I get in the car to drive home, and when I depress the clutch more than halfway, there's a grinding or scraping sound. Oh yay. I'm guessing it's either related to the leaky slave or master cylinder, or a bearing's about to go. Seems to have stopped now, but I think it's time to take it in...
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Oct 14, 2008 02:02
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I took some photos of my friends new eunos'. Thought some of you guys might like them   Click here for the full 800x533 image.  Click here for the full 800x533 image.  Click here for the full 900x326 image.  Click here for the full 800x533 image.  Click here for the full 800x533 image.  Click here for the full 800x511 image.  Click here for the full 800x533 image.  Click here for the full 800x533 image.  Click here for the full 800x533 image.  Click here for the full 800x540 image. I took a bunch of pics but didn't think it was worth its own thread. Thought some people in here might like them though. I'll delete if a mod thinks it's off topic or something.
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Oct 14, 2008 02:17
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Dr JonboyG posted:It is indeed black - thanks for the advice. That's probably the throwout bearing. The clutch kits come with a new one. ^^ nice pictures
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Oct 14, 2008 02:34
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A5H posted:PICS 
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Oct 14, 2008 03:17
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I think there's something off about the handling of this miata, maybe alignment-related. It's on RE750s, which are great in the wet but I have so little confidence with the car in the middle of a corner - it's almost like the car wants to oversteer, but I'm not going nearly fast enough to break traction. I'm hoping an alignment and new shocks will fix that. Oh, and the engine sounds very tappety, but I'll get them to look at that when it goes in for a check up.
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Oct 14, 2008 14:49
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kimbo305 posted:Last try with this. Anyone done it themselves before? I did one on the front of my '99 the other day. Really easy: *Loosen the lugs, and break off the stud that Dumbass McFuckstick trashed by using an airgun to thread it. Harbor Freight breaker bar comes in handy. *Jack up the corner, remove the wheel *Remove one of the sliders and move the caliper out of the way. Probably take the pads out too since they won't want to stay in, and watch out for those drat springs. *Remove the rotor *Attack the short stud with your weapon of choice to loosen it. I went for a combination of a C-clamp to try and push it out, and a hammer to finish it off. Took a few minutes. *Insert new stud, try and line up the splines if you can. *Stack a bunch of washers on the stud and use the lug nut to pull it into the hub. Do this slowly. *Remove lug nut and washers, put everything back together the way it was.
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Oct 14, 2008 16:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:I did one on the front of my '99 the other day. Really easy: Coincidentally, I recently did one of the front wheels of my '99 Miata too. That sounds like about what I did. I'm a huge fag though, so I took the hub all the way off, pressed the old stud out, and pressed a new one in (a vice and some sockets work fine for this). The only extra thing you have to do is remove the axle nut, but that can be a bitch if you don't have airtools, since it's staked. Staked nuts have a collar that is bent with a chisel or something to catch an indentation in whatever they thread onto. You're supposed to replace it if you take it off, which is about $5 at Autozone. Or just reuse and stake in a different place.
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Oct 15, 2008 18:06
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Dr JonboyG posted:Oh, and the engine sounds very tappety, but I'll get them to look at that when it goes in for a check up.
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Oct 15, 2008 18:12
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destructo posted:Check your oil level and try switching to Mobil 1 10w30, that took care of it for me. After the second change with Mobil 1 my hot tick is entirely gone. Having them check your lifters is going to cost more than you're going to want to pay. Also consider that the BP taps like there's no tomorrow even under normal conditions. I've been changing the oil on the '99 with full synthetic every 5k for the past 50k miles (bought it at 42k, used nothing but M1 0w40/5w30 or Castrol 0w30 since) and the oil comes out damned clean according to a recent UOA, and it still taps like a bastard.
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Oct 15, 2008 18:23
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Yeah, I'm not keen on asking them to tear down the engine. I was considering switching to synthetic but I was worried about leaks since it's been using dino oil for the past 115k miles. Maybe I'll give it a shot anyway. Thanks for the advice fellas.
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Oct 15, 2008 18:57
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I have been charged with finding the best winter tires for my brother's NA. I run michelin x-ices on my jetta but I live in colorado and my brother lives in minnesota. This means he'll be dealing with -10 F, which I assume means he may need a different rubber compound? Anyone with experience care to weigh in on their winter tire choice?
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Oct 15, 2008 18:59
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VPILF posted:The only extra thing you have to do is remove the axle nut, but that can be a bitch if you don't have airtools, since it's staked. Staked nuts have a collar that is bent with a chisel or something to catch an indentation in whatever they thread onto. You're supposed to replace it if you take it off, which is about $5 at Autozone. Or just reuse and stake in a different place. So I need to confirm that I have the right sized socket for the huge axle nut (at least I recall it being pretty big when I last looked). What about staking makes it easier for air tools to take off? Or does the presence of the staking just mean that it's on really loving tight? Does any have a torque spec or references for this nut? I couldn't find it on miata.net or on google. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Oct 15, 2008 |
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Oct 15, 2008 19:14
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kimbo305 posted:So I need to confirm that I have the right sized socket for the huge axle nut (at least I recall it being pretty big when I last looked). What about staking makes it easier for air tools to take off? Or does the presence of the staking just mean that it's on really loving tight? Does any have a torque spec or references for this nut? I couldn't find it on miata.net or on google. If I remember correctly, the torque spec for the axle nuts is 180ft-lbs. Working on mine, even after unstaking the nuts with a punch, I only got one of the two off. Attempting to remove the second one, I broke 3 breaker bars and didn't have any luck with the two electric impacts we've got. I had to take the car to a local garage where the proprietor was nice enough to pop the nut off using his air impact in about two seconds free of charge. So yeah, they're usually on there really loving tight.
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Oct 15, 2008 19:30
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I looked over an MX-5 today, 1994, 1.8, 131 000 KM, for 4500€. only two things kinda made me worry. The CAS seems to be leaking oil and there was a lot of oil/dirt gunk around the front of the engine.(near the crank) are either of these things I need to be terribly worried about? I have access to a shop with lifts and basically all the tools anyone ever needs, but I'd rather not have to spend hours fixing a car I just bought 
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Oct 15, 2008 20:21
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Frank Dillinger posted:only two things kinda made me worry. The CAS seems to be leaking oil and there was a lot of oil/dirt gunk around the front of the engine.(near the crank) are either of these things I need to be terribly worried about? I have access to a shop with lifts and basically all the tools anyone ever needs, but I'd rather not have to spend hours fixing a car I just bought
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Oct 15, 2008 20:23
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gunk on the front of the engine = front main seal just replace it when you do the timing belt/water pump.
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Oct 16, 2008 07:21
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ok, cool beans. the front main seal won't fail and make my engine 'splode, right? or should I take care of it sooner rather than later?
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Oct 16, 2008 14:14
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If you like oil pressure, I suggest you do it.
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Oct 16, 2008 15:18
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Phone posted:If you like oil pressure, I suggest you do it. This is just damned funny... I don't know why, but this statement just made me laugh out loud, which isn't a good thing when you're sitting in a class...
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Oct 16, 2008 16:50
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I think I have a hole in my exhaust. Up to about 3k RPMs my engine has suddenly gained a very loud bass-y sort of rumbly growl. Does that sound like a muffler or exhaust problem? Should I just take it to a local muffler shop, or are there any affordable performance exhausts I can replace it with?
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Oct 16, 2008 17:21
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mobn posted:I think I have a hole in my exhaust. Up to about 3k RPMs my engine has suddenly gained a very loud bass-y sort of rumbly growl. Does that sound like a muffler or exhaust problem? Should I just take it to a local muffler shop, or are there any affordable performance exhausts I can replace it with? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VaMKiEtz5I Maybe I'm biased, but does the BP series seem to have an.. acceptable note for a I4? I've never heard a Honda sound like that. destructo fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Oct 16, 2008 |
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Oct 16, 2008 17:26
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