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I like them a lot. Probably can't beat Amazon's pricing but I'll check when I get home later.
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Oct 12, 2014 21:23
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saint gerald posted:My 2007 STI needs front (and possibly rear) brake pads. The Stoptech Street Performance line seem to get good reviews and are cheap on Amazon - how are they? I've used them for a year or so and have been very happy with them. I haven't noticed any squeaking or other unusual sounds that you sometimes get with aftermarket pads. They do produce lots more dust than the OEM pads but you get that with any aftermarket pad. They bite harder and fade a lot later than OEM pads.
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Oct 12, 2014 22:23
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jamal posted:I like them a lot. Probably can't beat Amazon's pricing but I'll check when I get home later. Let me know. If you can get reasonably close to Amazon I'd rather buy from you.
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Oct 12, 2014 22:51
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VelociBacon posted:I've used them for a year or so and have been very happy with them. I haven't noticed any squeaking or other unusual sounds that you sometimes get with aftermarket pads. They do produce lots more dust than the OEM pads but you get that with any aftermarket pad. They bite harder and fade a lot later than OEM pads. Really? I've had them on for about 2 weeks now and I've noticed less dust. I washed my car the day after I swapped them on and gave the wheels a thorough cleaning so I could gauge how good/bad the new pads were when it came to dirtying my wheels.
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Oct 12, 2014 23:44
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joe944 posted:Well my luck only ran so far, as I have to return to GST tonight after a database glitch with the dyno, so I'm running the OTS map until then. Finally had time to catch a breath and snap some quick picks of the dyno results on the second day. This is a comparison between Mike's tune at GST and the Cobb OTS Stage 2 tune. Have to admit I'm a bit curious what it would get on a Dynojet for comparison's sake, but I'm more than happy with how the car feels. 14' WRX, catted cobb downpipe with a perrin catback.  Here is the Protune by itself.  And the A/F ratios during the tune. I have been seeing 19-20psi on the AP as well, which seems like it should be fine. 
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Oct 13, 2014 15:37
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Those numbers look awesome. I'm thinking about getting protuned at GST, sounds like you recommend them? Do you happen to know their policy on re-tunes if I add any mods?
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Oct 14, 2014 01:08
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Not sure if I ever posted the progress of my RHD Legacy project in here, but it was primed today:
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Oct 14, 2014 01:37
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Home spray booth? You're the man! Nice car, look forward to seeing it finished!
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Oct 14, 2014 02:42
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pctD posted:Those numbers look awesome. I'm thinking about getting protuned at GST, sounds like you recommend them? Do you happen to know their policy on re-tunes if I add any mods? Actually, GST was recommended to me on the previous page.  Not sure on the re-tune policy, although I'd be curious to know that myself. The car looks a little nuts now with the AP on the driver side vent, the V1 hanging off the mirror, and the mini 0803 dash cam behind the mirror, although I can't see that from the driver's seat. I've filled up with gas 3 times since I was tuned, and have yet to see 20mpg average. Stage 2 is fun.
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Oct 14, 2014 03:21
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joe944 posted:Actually, GST was recommended to me on the previous page. I'd murder for 20mpg. I'm running 94 octane and get around 15mpg on stock tune, 10mpg on power FC.
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Oct 14, 2014 03:40
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So that discounted 2006 Outback 3.0R is back on CL for about $3600 and it's starting to look tempting even if I hold off or forgo the diesel swap. Another few hundred dollars less and I might go check it out. http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/cto/4702228412.html The only other 6-cylinder Outbacks of that generation on CL go for over $12k. Barring any other issues that the seller hasn't disclosed, (I'm guessing) the costs to get it back into reasonable shape shouldn't get that close to that price particularly if I DIY. However, less money spent on repairs would go a long way towards a 5-speed manual swap or diesel swap. It's also probably a better way for me to cut my teeth on working on cars than going straight into a diesel swap or building an 818. So how exactly is the body cladding mounted to the body and where should I look for the missing pieces of cladding around the right rear wheel well? Any opinions on a two tone paint job by repainting the cladding and bumpers? (Which happen to have the most visible damage.) Color options? Is there anything I should look out for when querying the seller and inspecting the car? Particularly since the seller is in Brooklyn.
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Oct 14, 2014 03:46
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What the gently caress is wrong with the center console and the drivers side headrest, and why is the back seat folded down in every picture? did they go nuts with the bleach cleaning blood out of it?
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Oct 14, 2014 03:52
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Are there any cost effective steering rack swaps (sti?) out there?
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Oct 14, 2014 03:53
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VelociBacon posted:I'd murder for 20mpg. I'm running 94 octane and get around 15mpg on stock tune, 10mpg on power FC. I'd murder for 94 octane, my tune was on 91 and it was probably 85 out. Heat waves in October for the win.
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Oct 14, 2014 04:12
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Edward IV posted:So how exactly is the body cladding mounted to the body and where should I look for the missing pieces of cladding around the right rear wheel well? Any opinions on a two tone paint job by repainting the cladding and bumpers? (Which happen to have the most visible damage.) Color options? The owner of that car likes to hit things too, on top of the skeezy murder interior (which I bet smells great) and salvage auction price in a recent flood zone. Avoid. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Oct 14, 2014 |
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Oct 14, 2014 04:38
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Yeah, I had a feeling that the listing is as seedy as I had assumed but I've never looked for a used car before so I don't know what to look out for. Back to trawling Craigslist or whatever for a 2006-2009 Outback or a 2003-2008 Forester that's cheap but not beat to hell. Or patiently wait for Subaru to bring a WRX hatchback or the 1.6L DIT with a manual transmission in the Impreza or Forester and trade in the "old" Impreza. Hell if I need a second car like a hole in the head right now. In the meantime, is there anything I can do, short of trading in for a manual model, to make my Impreza's CVT suck less? I know I've had a like/hate relationship with the CVT but it doesn't inspire much confidence in accelerating or overtaking. I can live with it for a while but the novelty has worn off.
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Oct 14, 2014 06:19
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What are you guys doing? 20mpg is 11.8 liters per 100km in weird aus units, I get 9.6 average in my 05 wrx. I don't even drive conservatively either, air con always and either peak hour traffic or driving semi hard. That's on 98 octane though, would that be the difference? E: I got 8.4 in an 03 impreza gx on 91 for reference. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Oct 14, 2014 |
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Oct 14, 2014 07:15
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My '96 legacy 2.0 NA has a check engine light, what's the procedure for checking the codes on this thing? Probably related, the idle is also uneven. When you're idling the revs slowly drop over a period of about 5-7 seconds until it almost stumbles and the ECU seems to rescue it. I checked the air filter, it's not terrible but I'll probably change it out anyway, other than that I don't know where to look - I'm a motorcycle guy. Any ideas?
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Oct 14, 2014 08:47
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ReelBigLizard posted:My '96 legacy 2.0 NA has a check engine light, what's the procedure for checking the codes on this thing? The next step is to get a code reader or get it read. I think some auto part stores in the states read it for free, I'm not in the states so someone else can answer that. Sounds like a vacuum leak/MAF issue/O2 sensor.
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Oct 14, 2014 08:53
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Edward IV posted:Yeah, I had a feeling that the listing is as seedy as I had assumed but I've never looked for a used car before so I don't know what to look out for. Back to trawling Craigslist or whatever for a 2006-2009 Outback or a 2003-2008 Forester that's cheap but not beat to hell. You have a 13 Impreza, right? Use the shift paddles? I mean, the 0-60 on these things is like 9 seconds, that's not morbidly slow. There's an Australian guy on NASIOC selling tunes, which would probably void your warranty, and who knows how much it would do in the real world.
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Oct 14, 2014 12:09
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'02 Impreza - So, last few days I've been getting an intermittent loud noise (sounds like gravel rolling around) from the top drivers side of the engine, as well as a slight burning rubber smell. The belts like to squeak despite adjusting the tension correctly for both. From what I can tell it's coming from the A/C compressor (noise doesn't change much with RPM, engine sounds fine aside from this noise, and noise doesn't seem to be coming from the engine itself) - am I going to do any harm by simply cutting the A/C belt off, seeing if the noise goes away, and if it does dealing with it in the spring? From what I can tell the belt is a dedicated A/C belt.
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Oct 14, 2014 13:46
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:What are you guys doing? Ethanol. TrueChaos posted:'02 Impreza - So, last few days I've been getting an intermittent loud noise (sounds like gravel rolling around) from the top drivers side of the engine, as well as a slight burning rubber smell. The belts like to squeak despite adjusting the tension correctly for both. From what I can tell it's coming from the A/C compressor (noise doesn't change much with RPM, engine sounds fine aside from this noise, and noise doesn't seem to be coming from the engine itself) - am I going to do any harm by simply cutting the A/C belt off, seeing if the noise goes away, and if it does dealing with it in the spring? From what I can tell the belt is a dedicated A/C belt. It won't do any harm. However, it is likely just the tensioner pulley on that belt. That thing likes to go and make very loud noises when it does.
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Oct 14, 2014 14:12
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VelociBacon posted:The next step is to get a code reader or get it read. I think some auto part stores in the states read it for free, I'm not in the states so someone else can answer that. Sounds like a vacuum leak/MAF issue/O2 sensor. I'm in the UK, sort of. In any case, I found a guide - http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm
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Oct 14, 2014 14:43
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always be closing posted:Home spray booth? You're the man! Nice car, look forward to seeing it finished! Its actually my painters. He took the car home so he could do the body work and primer there before taking it back to his shop for final paint. Pretty stoked. Also, I have been trying to sell my Outback and had no luck at all. I started my price at $12k and am now down to $9k obo. My price doesn't seem unreasonable... does it? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/va-2006-subaru-outback-xt-limited-215703.html
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Oct 14, 2014 14:58
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Bojanglesworth posted:Its actually my painters. He took the car home so he could do the body work and primer there before taking it back to his shop for final paint. Pretty stoked. The majority of your market on that Outback is not going to be down with the appearance. I like it, but the number of people looking for a wagon with that kind of look is pretty small. You'd be better off getting it to a more stock appearance and selling off the parts. You'll have a better market on both sides.
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Oct 14, 2014 15:02
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FogHelmut posted:You have a 13 Impreza, right? Use the shift paddles? I mean, the 0-60 on these things is like 9 seconds, that's not morbidly slow. There's an Australian guy on NASIOC selling tunes, which would probably void your warranty, and who knows how much it would do in the real world. I don't even have cruise control let alone paddle shifters. That's what I get for buying the base model (and not having any friend or family members who are into cars) but I'll know better for the next car I get and at least this car is completely paid off. I'm barely halfway through the powertrain warranty and by the time or before it is up (hopefully) something to my liking and preferences will be available.
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Oct 14, 2014 15:07
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Edward IV posted:I don't even have cruise control let alone paddle shifters. That's what I get for buying the base model (and not having any friend or family members who are into cars) but I'll know better for the next car I get and at least this car is completely paid off. I'm barely halfway through the powertrain warranty and by the time or before it is up (hopefully) something to my liking and preferences will be available. Oh, I thought all of the CVT models came with the paddle shifters.
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Oct 14, 2014 15:15
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bull3964 posted:It won't do any harm. That's probably what it is. I'll see if I can get the belt off without cutting it to reuse once I replace the pulley - that makes the most sense to me, as the noise is something I would think sounds like a pulley or some kind of rotational thing going bad. Also explains the occasional belt squeak I was getting, and why it's seemingly intermittent. Thanks!
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Oct 14, 2014 15:19
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It's seriously like 10 minutes to do. Most dealers have them in stock. Personally, I would do it before winter because the AC compressor runs when you have your system on defrost to remove moisture from the air and it makes a huge difference in window fogging.
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Oct 14, 2014 15:29
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With the amount of rust I don't know if 10 minutes is quite right, but I forgot about the defrost bit. Dealership is about an hour away, but I should be able to find one locally. Any chance you know of a writeup anywhere? E: noise is definitely top front drivers side, which seems farther away from the tensioner pulley. Could it be the A/C compressor pulley? TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Oct 14, 2014 |
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Oct 14, 2014 15:40
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2013 WRX - 25k mi. Clutch vibrates when I'm pushing it down, and again when it's coming back up. Very slight vibration, and it goes away randomly. Normally, I'd bring this to the dealer, but I can't reproduce it. Only thing I can see is that it happens on cold starts. Any ideas?
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Oct 14, 2014 16:36
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si posted:The majority of your market on that Outback is not going to be down with the appearance. I like it, but the number of people looking for a wagon with that kind of look is pretty small. You'd be better off getting it to a more stock appearance and selling off the parts. You'll have a better market on both sides. Thats what I was thinking too, the only non stock parts on it are the wheels. 
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Oct 14, 2014 16:50
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Bojanglesworth posted:Thats what I was thinking too, the only non stock parts on it are the wheels. Oh, the pictures I was looking at seemed like it had a blacked out/debadged grill, looked very lowered, etc.
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Oct 14, 2014 17:14
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BoyBlunder posted:2013 WRX - 25k mi. For my warranty woes with the Hyundai it's much easier to just grab video of the issue than trying to reproduce it at the dealer. That being said, is it vibration in the pedal? Vibration of the car? Vibration as in noise?
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Oct 14, 2014 17:47
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Bajaha posted:For my warranty woes with the Hyundai it's much easier to just grab video of the issue than trying to reproduce it at the dealer. Vibration in the pedal itself. Just a tremor/shaking.
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Oct 14, 2014 21:00
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si posted:Oh, the pictures I was looking at seemed like it had a blacked out/debadged grill, looked very lowered, etc. This. Get rid of the old pictures with the stretched tires and big drop, take some better ones of the current setup. When I see pics like that I immediately write the car off.
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Oct 14, 2014 22:44
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'04 Forester: Bought car without keyfob, unknown alarm. Check under dash and find no alarm. Karr sticker on the windows and the remnants of a Karr system under the dash (relay starter interrupt) but no controller and everything unplugged. Found two white plastic OEM plugs which aren't plugged into anything except one of them has a plug end with just a wire jumper which disables the starter when unplugged, assuming this is the factory immobilizer plug. I have a two-button OEM keyfob from another '04 Forester. Can I just buy a used keyless entry box, plug it in, and program to my keyfob and have keyless entry work? Same thing with the immobilizer, just plug it in?
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Oct 15, 2014 02:32
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Bojanglesworth posted:Its actually my painters. He took the car home so he could do the body work and primer there before taking it back to his shop for final paint. Pretty stoked. Honestly, your little "spin" probably scares off most of the typical outback buyers. They won't care about your modifications and so forth. They'll just know that you are asking that price for a car that had a little off. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/67-classifieds/182154-fs-2005-outback-llbean.html <--- lovely comparison; but, someone paid his $9k asking price because its obviously unmolested and stock. This is your market if you are in a rush to sell. c355n4 fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Oct 15, 2014 |
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Oct 15, 2014 02:44
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BoyBlunder posted:Vibration in the pedal itself. Just a tremor/shaking. Hmm, that seems a bit odd, maybe get the dealer to grease the hinge for the pedal, could be it's binding a touch when it's cold. Is it a persistent vibration through the pedal when you hold the clutch partway in or is it just as you push it in and let it out? Either way, let the dealer attempt a repair just so it's on record in case there's issues later on.
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Oct 15, 2014 17:46
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Bajaha posted:Hmm, that seems a bit odd, maybe get the dealer to grease the hinge for the pedal, could be it's binding a touch when it's cold. It's persistent when it catches on the engagement point, and all the way through to the floor, and again on the way back up. I'll give the dealer a shout. Thanks!
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Oct 15, 2014 18:23
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