|
TheFargate posted:So a genius buddy of mine decided to back into my 15 sti and smashed in a front fender. I got a quote for $1300 for a new fender painted to match and installed. My question is, is this a reasonable price? Im in nj if that makes a difference What color is it?
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 00:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 24, 2024 19:15 |
|
|
WRB
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 01:09
|
|
|
Midjack posted:That should be an "and" at the beginning of the second sentence. SOMEONE has to keep our insurance rates up, and i like my car.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 02:39
|
|
|
wrong thread
daslog fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Feb 5, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 03:50
|
|
|
Daslog wtf you're going to out us~
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 03:54
|
|
|
Crosspostin' from dumb question thread: In my 2000 2.5L manual Subaru Outback wagon I've got this strange rattling sound coming through the firewall. In 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear when the RPMs are above 3k and the gas pedal is 1/2 depressed or more, it sounds like somebody is rattling a marble inside a plastic cup down below the pedals. Only happens during acceleration under those conditions. At first I thought "weird sound during high throttle, predetination?" but I just put in a full tank of 91 octane and the noise is the same. I can try to get audio of it tonight but it's been happening for about 2 weeks now and the car behaves normally otherwise.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 21:37
|
|
|
Heatshields.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 21:42
|
|
|
I have a misfire problem with my STi. I was driving through town tuesday and when I accelerated to go on the highway (above 55) it started misfiring and the whole car was shaking(definitely missing). I limped it back home, read the code and had a code for a misfire. I swapped out cylinder 1's coil pack with a good extra one that I had and disconnected and reconnected the battery.I drove it around for 10 minutes and the misfire was gone. Today I took the car out and I was driving highway speeds and slowed down to take a left onto another highway and again when I was accelerating in 5th gear I get a misfire code and the car is shaking. Now cylinder 4 is showing a code. Is my coil packs going bad or is something else going on? The day before this happened I took it through a touchless carwash that had a underbody spray and I didn't have the undertray on the car. I find it weird that I've had a misfire code happen under the same situation twice, but the misfire code has jumped to another cylinder. Edit: I reset the codes and idled the car for 10 minutes. As soon as I start revving the code p0304 starts flashing and I can noticeably hear and feel the misfire. When I listen to the coil pack I can hear it firing just like the other coil packs. Edit: The check engine light flashes and then occasionally turns completely off. Edit Edit: I switched Cylinder 2's coil pack with 4s and now Cylinder 2 is misfiring. Looks like just a bad coil pack. Kind of weird having two coil packs go out like that. G-Mach fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Feb 6, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 23:44
|
|
|
Rontalvos posted:Crosspostin' from dumb question thread: Have a look at all the heatshielding and see if any of them are loose. If they are get a bunch of hose clamps and string them together and tighten them around the heat shield to clamp it back together. Heat shield rattles are a pretty common problem in general and are nothing to worry about. Also make sure you snip the ends off the clamps, because they will rattle too.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 00:02
|
|
|
You can get really big clamps that will go all the way around from Home Depot or Lowe's or wherever else. e: I think the right size was somewhere around 2.5" dia.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 00:35
|
|
|
Yeah i have no idea bout Subaru sizes because I haven't fix that rattle on one but on a CA s13 you need to string 3 together in parts unless you get an absolutely massive clamp.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 07:31
|
|
|
Sudo Echo posted:Heatshields. My outback has been doing this for a while too, so I'm glad to finally find the answer. Time to crawl under it. Unrelated question. For the past week or so when I start it up the oil pressure light blinks an extra time at startup. Like, it comes on briefly with the battery light like it should, but then goes out and comes back on for a second then shuts off. Any idea what's going on?
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 13:54
|
|
|
door Door door posted:My outback has been doing this for a while too, so I'm glad to finally find the answer. Time to crawl under it. First, check oil level, obviously. Next, are you using the correct viscosity oil? It's getting mighty cold lately so going with a 0W-XX over say a 10W-XX might help with oil pressure during cold startups. Does the light kind of fade away? That usually indicates poor connection at the oil pressure sender.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 17:26
|
|
|
My RS blinks twice and has for years on startup. The motor is fine and has pressure. Also on wet days the oil lights up dim. It's an electrical issue with the sensor not my motor about to eat itself.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 17:55
|
|
|
Neptr posted:First, check oil level, obviously. Next, are you using the correct viscosity oil? It's getting mighty cold lately so going with a 0W-XX over say a 10W-XX might help with oil pressure during cold startups. Checked the level as soon as it started and it's fine. Cap is on nice and tight too. I use 5W-30 year round so I don't know if changing to 0W-30 would make much of difference. Light doesn't really fade away but I guess I'll check out the sender anyway. Thanks guys.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 18:15
|
|
|
After putting new tires on my STI it is pulling left on acceleration. Evened out the tire pressure and it helped a bit but it still pulls left. The car rolls straight it's only under acceleration. Is this bad wheel balancing, bad alignment, or are my diffs going to fight me for a bit until the tires are a bit more worn in?
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 18:39
|
|
|
Would I be able to improve shifter feel in my Saabaru with a short shift kit, or maybe just a new bushing? I don't know how to describe what I'm going for - I don't necessarily care about the length of the throw, but I'd like it to feel a little more crisp when I shift, have a little more snap.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 18:41
|
|
|
blk posted:Would I be able to improve shifter feel in my Saabaru with a short shift kit, or maybe just a new bushing? I don't know how to describe what I'm going for - I don't necessarily care about the length of the throw, but I'd like it to feel a little more crisp when I shift, have a little more snap. Front shift stay is the easiest, followed by the rear, and than the actual shift linkage U joint. The front rubber bushing is pretty flexy, but it's usually the ujoint in the shift linkage that farts out the plastic bushings. It's also a bitch to replace.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 18:59
|
|
|
I have the "STI" short-shift and full poly bushings on my legacy and it still feels quite agricultural. It's a hell of a lot less mushy than stock though. I've heard good things about the kartboy short-throw and I'd also get this or something similar: http://turninconcepts.com/06-5mt-holy-shift-kit-wide.html
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 19:01
|
|
|
Yeah I have the whole package: Kartboy front and rear bushings u-joint bushings kartboy short shifter TIC shifter pivot bushings new return spring (because my car is a 98 with 200k miles) I highly recommend it, on the older cars at least. You get a very clear feeling of where the shifter is. People call that "notchy" like it is a bad thing, but isn't that what you want? I for one don't want a shifter that just moves around giving zero feedback. Not sure what you can do with the new stuff as it is all different and some cars are cable shifted now. Also I carry all that kartboy and tic stuff.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 19:11
|
|
|
EvilBlackRailgun posted:After putting new tires on my STI it is pulling left on acceleration. Evened out the tire pressure and it helped a bit but it still pulls left. The car rolls straight it's only under acceleration. Is this bad wheel balancing, bad alignment, or are my diffs going to fight me for a bit until the tires are a bit more worn in? Sounds more like a bushing/suspension/alignment issue. Maybe your tire place can double check that they are balanced right and put the car on the alignment rack to make sure everything is straight?
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 19:11
|
|
|
I did just the front and rear bushings and the pivot bushings, and it made a noticeable improvement in shifting. If you do the kartboy rear bushing and don't get a short shifter then your shifter will be about 2" higher than before, but it doesn't bother me so I haven't sprung for a short shifter yet.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 19:16
|
|
|
door Door door posted:I did just the front and rear bushings and the pivot bushings, and it made a noticeable improvement in shifting. If you do the kartboy rear bushing and don't get a short shifter then your shifter will be about 2" higher than before, but it doesn't bother me so I haven't sprung for a short shifter yet. I assume forester/outback? Because with the non raised cars it will stay in the same place.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 19:53
|
|
|
jamal posted:Yeah I have the whole package: I did all this stuff to my STI's six-speed and it was a night-and-day difference. Lovely surgical feel, no more missed shifts, plus jamal hooked me up with a great deal. It's a bit fiddly to do but well worth the time and money IMO.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 20:13
|
|
|
I have the kartboy short shifter and bushings and the only complaint I have is that my first gear is harder to get in to while in motion, like rolling up to a stoplight and such. It takes a bit more effort to shift in general but that's a good thing. I installed it myself too, not that difficult, just have some grease handy for the ball joint at the bottom of the shifter itself. You can reuse the old stuff I guess, but I wiped off some of it by accident and just ended up regreasing the whole thing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 21:44
|
|
|
You shouldn't be trying to shift into first while the car is in motion anyway, it's absolute murder on the synchros.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 21:49
|
|
|
In 07+ they double syncro'd first. Up until then, it is perfectly normal that you cannot get the box into first when the car is moving. Some boxes have had better wear/tolerances than others, but again, not getting into first with the car moving is fine.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 22:02
|
|
|
jamal posted:I assume forester/outback? Because with the non raised cars it will stay in the same place. Yeo, outback. Is the rear bushing mount higher in the raised cars?
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 16:22
|
|
|
Hey, has anyone ever heard of new Subaru windshields being unusually soft or anything like that? I just somehow managed to put a bunch of scratches in my 2015 wrx's windshield with a plastic ice scraper. I can't see any dirt or salt embedded in the scraper's blade, and these are pretty deep scratches (I can catch my fingernail in them). The car's only a month old, think the dealer would do anything if I called them about this?
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 16:41
|
|
|
Terrible Robot posted:You shouldn't be trying to shift into first while the car is in motion anyway, it's absolute murder on the synchros. I've driven stick my whole life, in familiar with the fact that it's not the best move to ever downshift in to first in any car, but I feel that everyone does it now and then. I'm talking like 1 or 2 mph as well. Slow is Fast posted:In 07+ they double syncro'd first. Up until then, it is perfectly normal that you cannot get the box into first when the car is moving. Some boxes have had better wear/tolerances than others, but again, not getting into first with the car moving is fine. It's an 09. That's why I made the comment; it was just easier to do with the stock shifter, not that it was ever "easy" to do in the first place.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 17:31
|
|
|
I like that the short shifter gives you less mechanical advantage over the syncros. Really lets you know when you are putting extra stress on them because it will be a lot harder to go into gear. I end up double clutching most of my downshifts just so it goes into gear nicely.door Door door posted:Yeo, outback. Is the rear bushing mount higher in the raised cars? The rear mount lowers where the shifter support is in relation to the body of the car so that it lines up with the rest of the drivetrain, which is also lower to move the suspension pickups and stuff down. Not far enough for the shifter to stop working or whatever if you swap the mounts, although sometimes you have to make sure the selector rod from the shifter doesn't hit the metal surround.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 20:48
|
|
|
fralbjabar posted:Hey, has anyone ever heard of new Subaru windshields being unusually soft or anything like that? I just somehow managed to put a bunch of scratches in my 2015 wrx's windshield with a plastic ice scraper. I can't see any dirt or salt embedded in the scraper's blade, and these are pretty deep scratches (I can catch my fingernail in them). The car's only a month old, think the dealer would do anything if I called them about this? Dunno, I have 47000 miles and my windshield looks worse than my Pontiac did at 192000 miles. They must make the windshields out of the same stuff they make the paint.
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 23:32
|
|
|
So... 2012 impreza 5 speed hatch...at the carwash today I noticed grease slung around from the front driver outer cv boot  It looks like it separated/tore around the clamp on the side towards transmission. No sounds yet.I'm tempted to bring it to the dealer and have them deal with it. Would they reboot it if possible? Is that even a good idea even though there are no sounds? Would this be terrible to do on my own? I looked at the service manual and I see some special tools... like a balljoint puller and another puller to separate axle shaft from hub. I don't have those tools. I generally do all things myself- but its cold out. It looks like an expensive job 
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2015 23:56
|
|
|
SomethingOrAnother posted:It looks like an expensive job It's actually not that bad of a job. But my default is if it's under warranty, let the dealer fix it. They might replace the boot. They might just replace the whole axle. Depends on the service writer.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 00:20
|
|
|
No longer under warranty  Looks like the list price for an axle is 400. Any ideas on how long shop labor would call for?
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 00:43
|
|
|
Personally I would just reboot it. Its not a crazy job. You can free the axle by undoing lower balljoint or by marking the upper bolt on the knuckle (put it back the same way, that's your camber setting) and cranking the wheel to the other side to give yourself clearance. The axle should pop out of the hub without issue, at worst a few tugs or spray penetrating lube and put the nut on most of the way and give it some love taps. Once it's out the axle only comes apart one way. The outer cv is a press fit, you will not be able to take it apart. The inner cv is pretty simple, there's a compressed ring holding the joint in place, use a flat head to leverage it out. You'll need a decent set of snap ring pliers at this point. Remove snap ring from end of axle and hammer off the inner bearing race. Should come off easy. Inspect parts for damage. If it's all good, throw on a new boot and pack the joint with grease. Put it all back together and throw on new clamps. Get a decent cv boot clamp tool, makes putting it all together much easier. Pop into my Baja thread and you'll see some pictures of me playing with cv joints. Might make the procedure a little more clear if my explanation is a little hard to follow.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 00:58
|
|
|
Bajaha posted:Personally I would just reboot it. Its not a crazy job. You can free the axle by undoing lower balljoint or by marking the upper bolt on the knuckle (put it back the same way, that's your camber setting) and cranking the wheel to the other side to give yourself clearance. The axle should pop out of the hub without issue, at worst a few tugs or spray penetrating lube and put the nut on most of the way and give it some love taps. I did my wrx in Sept. I second rebooting as the aftermarket axles are not as well built as the oem ones and a boot plus the band tool is still cheaper.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 01:23
|
|
|
SomethingOrAnother posted:No longer under warranty If you don't want to deal with replacing the boot, an axle is only going to run you about $50 at rockauto/napa/vatozone; it'll maybe cost you an hour of labor at an honest shop, maybe two if they go by book rates. edit: if you choose to do it yourself, look back two dozen or so pages for instructions McSpatula fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Feb 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 07:38
|
|
|
If my roommate and I could do it in about 2 hours with hand tools and a haynes manual, anyone can. Now all that i have to do is find where the slow oil leak is coming from that manages to drip on my exhaust.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 13:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 24, 2024 19:15 |
|
|
BIG HORNY COW posted:If my roommate and I could do it in about 2 hours with hand tools and a haynes manual, anyone can. It's usually the head gasket.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 13:24
|
|