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flyboi posted:Mine's pretty short Nice, KoV2 is good, but I like Oriental Legend 2 better! I have all the S16 games I want, but have considered the S16 multi to save money? What is the Zn-2?!
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Jan 14, 2020 00:47
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d0s posted:The stuff I linked up there plus a few $insane boards like battle bakraid and air gallet (I actually have something along these lines on the way to me thanks to a lucky opportunity), generally hard to find games like kiki kaikai, drift out 94, some other stuff. the multigame options for the more popular systems has really narrowed it down, that stuff is a huge blessing to this hobby. I'm starting to get into CPS1 multi, ST-V multi etc. For sure man. Here is my remaining stuff: Battletoads (I have this, but need another for a friend) Blade Master Denjin Makai Dungeon Magic Dynamite Dux Hachoo! Judge Dredd (the brawler) (think I just scored this) Monster Maulers Mystic Warriors Night Slashers (again, have one, need another) Ninja Clowns Punisher Rabbit Sailor Moon Pretty Soldier SegaSonic The Hedgehog Spiderman (System 32 mainboard must have Spiderman sticker, not just the ROM board) Undercover Cops Cave or Toaplan shooters, or any shooter that is similar!
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Jan 14, 2020 00:48
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While I don't have the money, I would really like to own a Rush'n Attack cab one day. I would like to... uhhh... find a Rush'n Attack cab to play someday, too.
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Jan 14, 2020 01:41
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as far as cabs I really want original dedicated cabs (or cocktails) of the following games: ladybug cosmic avenger donkey kong turbo simply because those were the first four console games I owned (on colecovision) and what got me into arcade style gaming, and completely influenced how I played/thought about games for the rest of my life. but lol at 1.) finding all of those in good shape and 2.)having that much space/money
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Jan 14, 2020 02:02
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Wise Fwom Yo Gwave posted:While I don't have the money, I would really like to own a Rush'n Attack cab one day. Don't know about the cab, but picked up a like new RA PCB with joystick and buttons. It's an OK game for about 10 minutes. I don't see the draw of it, maybe repetition?
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Jan 14, 2020 03:31
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XtraSmiley posted:Don't know about the cab, but picked up a like new RA PCB with joystick and buttons. It's an OK game for about 10 minutes. I don't see the draw of it, maybe repetition? Sentimental draw. My “Round Table Pizza 1985” reconstruct demands it.
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Jan 14, 2020 08:18
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I'd really love an NFL Blitz '99 cabinet. Was there ever a 4P mode? If so, that version of it.
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Jan 14, 2020 08:31
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XtraSmiley posted:Nice, KoV2 is good, but I like Oriental Legend 2 better! I already have Oriental Legend 2 and KoV 3 for PGM2 so it's more just would be neat to have card support for KoV2. ZN-2 is Capcom's Playstation platform which had titles like Rival Schools, SF2 EX2, Strider 2 , TGM, etc. I really like that generation of boards and have a G-Net along with the mod-bios and have over half of Capcom's ZN-2 titles. Still missing Rival Schoosl, EX2+ and Strider 2.... I even may have sourced an extremely rare roar x2 ZN-2 bootleg but waiting to hear back on that one. Edit: I guess if I get that bootleg I can do an effort post to explain why I like ZN but it's kind of necessary to show why flyboi fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Jan 14, 2020 |
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Jan 14, 2020 13:26
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I almost bid on a P.O.W jamma pcb yesterday without anything to play it on... this thread is bad for my wallet. It sold for $47 shipped working. So cheap for an original working arcade PCB. The depth of the game is kind of shallow but I really like it, the sound effects punching people are super satisfying. I get the Rush'N Attack nostalgia, it was one of the first Nintendo games I ever played and it's extremely close to the arcade version. Top 5 arcades I want that I will almost certainly never own...ignoring Ghouls 'N Ghosts which I will own at some point and a candy cab to get into the PCB rabbit hole. Gauntlet Yie Ar Kung Fu (Lot of nostalgia in this one for me, local batting cage had one and I also think it's a pretty fun game) A Nintendo Red Tent Mortal Kombat 2 WWF WrestleFest At one point in time I wanted a 4 slot Neo Geo, but I just got a MiSTer going so that probably fell off the list.
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Jan 14, 2020 18:43
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 Poor Demon Front. Please remember to neutralize battery acid if you're trying to repair something and end up cutting a battery off a board   Ended up patching over the traces that went somewhere but this board has issues with a weak sync signal unfortunately. All of the other traces go to an un-populated connector meant for 4p games so not the worst damage in the world. I traced the sync coming directly off a 256 pin custom chip which I could harvest from a PGM board however I'm just not very excited about dealing with it.
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Jan 15, 2020 00:52
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What's the best way to neutralize and? I've removed a bunch of batteries, but never wiped the spot down!?!
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Jan 15, 2020 12:24
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Wise Fwom Yo Gwave posted:Sentimental draw. My “Round Table Pizza 1985” reconstruct demands it. Sorry I did this to your wallet... https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=464249
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Jan 15, 2020 12:48
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XtraSmiley posted:What's the best way to neutralize and? I've removed a bunch of batteries, but never wiped the spot down!?! Vinegar will neutralize the acid and then you can clean up any caked on residue with isopropyl alcohol afterwards. Anyways if you were curious to see what a faulty custom's sync look like I'm helping someone with a scaler they designed so have some scope output:  Here's a healthy sync coming out of my IGS PGM. If you are familiar with video signals JAMMA is different from your standard signal that goes over RCA in that it uses TTL sync instead of the classic 75 ohm v0.7 vpp signaling you're used to. TTL sync works by crossing a voltage barrier that the monitor needs to see and if it is too weak then sync cannot be established or is weak and causes excess noise in the video signal.  Oh you poor, poor Demon Front. I spent a while tracing out the entirety of sync across both the PGM motherboard and Demon Front PCB to find that it comes directly off pin 83 from a 256 pin custom that is in all PGM boards. To fix this board would require harvesting the chip from a functional PGM and then swapping it in. However while I was looking at my two cabs to see why one had such issues with sync I found it was set to a higher voltage than the working cab. After adjusting 5V down to 5.07V the sync got worse unsurprisingly so why not go up? Somehow at 5.20V the signal is stable enough that the game works on the cabinet. Boards overall should be safe to 5.25V so I'm not too worried however while running it and letting a ML2032 charge that I had placed in the board I found that I could drop the voltage back down to 5.10V and the sync signal remained at this higher voltage level on the scope.  So next steps for the board are I'm going to recap it as the voltage thing indicates there's a capacitance issue somewhere and pray that magically fixes the custom so I don't have to gently caress with 256 QFP. You can also see how those vias look after the battery acid was removed (not good, very black, very going to be gone from corrosion down the road)
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Jan 15, 2020 16:49
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Awesome man, I hope the recap does it! When you say vinegar, like, what kind? Grocery store? White? Etc.
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Jan 15, 2020 17:38
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Any kind of vinegar really, the idea is you're applying something with an acidic pH which reduces the basic pH level of the battery acid. Please note that vinegar will only work on alkaline-based batteries due to the basic pH of the chemicals in them. Also unsurprisingly a recap didn't help. There's only 10 or so on the board so only took a hot minute to swap them out. Oh well.
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Jan 15, 2020 17:49
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XtraSmiley posted:Sorry I did this to your wallet... Someone got to it before me, and that is all right because I don’t have the capital or space.
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Jan 15, 2020 21:21
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I spent a few hours with a friend after work cleaning and fixing up this guy: It had a lot of rust between the control panel layers, but I'm impressed how well this Rustoleum rust removal gel worked on the control panel surround. I'm going to be getting it powder coated soon, and I have a different control panel on the way. This one's got a rotate mech in it. Only a few small things left to do: * Recap the monitor * Recap the PSU * Swap in MVS-U4 control panel I sourced * Powder coat control panel surround and misc. small interior pieces * Refurb old sticks to whatever degree possible, and swap in new sticks/buttons * Make replacement decals that are missing * Repair headphone PCB for which all jacks were snapped off * Install locks (I have chosen Sega 5380s for consistency) Hatsune Mike fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Jan 15, 2020 |
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Jan 15, 2020 22:18
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gently caress that is great, congrats. I want one more cab to compliment my NAC and that's some form of 80's metal cab like an aero, pony II/III, etc. e: also A+ game choice, do you own that board or is it emulated? d0s fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jan 16, 2020 |
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Jan 15, 2020 23:57
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d0s posted:gently caress that is great, congrats. I want one more cab to compliment my NAC and that's some form of 80's metal cab like an aero, pony II/III, etc. I've got the board, it was like $150 on eBay a few years ago. Raimais boards do not pop up very often, but they are not the priciest when they do.
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Jan 16, 2020 00:43
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Hatsune Mike posted:I've got the board, it was like $150 on eBay a few years ago. Raimais boards do not pop up very often, but they are not the priciest when they do. yeah it's one of those games that I keep forgetting to look for, same with volfied. I love that era of taito single screen games
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Jan 16, 2020 02:27
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Oooh pretty cabinet! Have you ever done powder coating on a control panel that has art on it? If so how did that go? I'm considering taking the Net City panel I have to someone and have the back powder coated after dealing with the rusting on it. I also got owned by Chinese New Year so ZN effort post either can happen without it and you'll just have to use your imagination or wait until the end of February. Oh well, at least I finally found a version of Bloody Roar 2 that wasn't stupidly overpriced and have a hacked ZN-2 A board to poke around at.
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Jan 16, 2020 15:35
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new pcb day, some frustrating yagawa poo poo I'll never clear
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Jan 17, 2020 01:51
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 Meet the Sony ZN platform. Also known as Playstation there were two revisions of this board named ZN-1 and ZN-2. ZN-1 is really boring, it's just a Playstation with some pretty lipstick. ZN-2 however is a Playstation on steroids. Starting with the base system on the ZN-1 the platform was limited to 2MB for both system ram and video ram. Sony developed the whole system to be modular and with the ZN-2 decided to offer the ability of configuring the platform with 2/4/8MB for both video and system ram. Even with the ZN-1 we had more video power than the home counterpart but now we have up to 8 times the space for activities in video ram holy gently caress. But that's not all, I mentioned the platform is modular right?  Here's a Capcom ZN-2 rom board  Here's the Taito G-Net rom board Already we can see that the platform allows companies the ability to design wildly different rom boards, they're nothing alike! Even with the boards physically looking different we have different sound hardware! Holy crap! Capcom using their patented Q-Sound technology while the G-Net has a Zoom ZSG-2 DSP. This is on top of the existing Playstation hardware, that sound is still in the system however you can shove what you want on top, this baby's more modular than a made for tv kitchen ware set. Not only is the hardware modular itself, the game manufacturers took things a step further sometimes. Taito for example said "gently caress roms are so expensive how can we sell games cheaper on this platform and still make bank?"  Well PCMCIA offers ATA so why not interface with the drive like a hard drive and make the system rewrite itself when a new game is installed? That's pretty great! Now we just have to sell a PCMCIA card rather than a ROM board! Give that engineer a bonus (probably didn't the assholes) Oh but we're not done, no. Let's go further! Someone somewhere probably bemoaned about the ability to save with this kind of setup as the PCMCIA are distributed read-only and only read a few times so where can we store data?  Meet the backup module for G-Net. There's a battery spot underneath which can be populated as well although Taito never did that officially. For someone reading this and going "oh poo poo really? time to put one in my poo poo!" There are jumpers that configure this board, be very careful. While it's possible I haven't bothered to see how this is wired up safely. With how the backup board is placed in relation to the power on the board there are two jumpers - JP2 & JP3 on the board that state if the backup module exists. JP2 says "i'm here! give me power!" while JP3 says "gently caress a backup module" and it should be one or the other closed. Be very careful with this you have been warned. Basically if the power wasn't isolated on this backup module via those jumpers it'd act as the power source to the board and bad things could happen. JP1 is used to flash the G-Net system and JP4 is used to tell the system the presence of a network card as well for information sake. So what's stopping you from just plopping a Capcom game on Taito's ZN-2 mainboard? They look identical so it should just work right? Nah Sony realized this and developed a simplistic form of protection that is rather elegant. If you look at the model numbers on the main board stickers you can see that they end in a letter C(apcom) and T(aito).  Along with this there's a series of lettered jumpers. These tell the system which lettered revision it is and does some special sauce things. Each company are provided a bios that is specific to their letter revision and it won't boot if this part isn't setup properly. Ok so the system will boot because the bios and jumpers match but still roms can't be used across the different company boards so what gives? That little chip in the bottom right with the sticker TT10 is a CAT702 chip aka the protection IC on the A board. On every B board is also a protection IC and categorized to the release order for the title. TGM1 for example was the 11th release on Capcom's ZN games and G-Net was Taito's 6th release on the platform (5 on FX-1A). These chips communicate back to the TT10 via serial communication. Curious enough it functions almost exactly like the Playstation's controller communication and acts as a glorified bit tumbler. Basically this thing is told "hey the program has 1234 in the code what is the code?" and it goes 689A and the game goes "thanks friend, that code executed now here's some more data" but the protection chips only work with the married company TT10. Ah, dick heads. Remember JP1 on the G-Net? Well a fun thing about security is over time flaws are found and it gets compromised. In this case as you can see my G-Net uses very much not-official cards and instead I'm using compact flash cards. Around 2009 someone figured out how to modify the bios to disable the protection checks inside G-Net. What this means is you have a gigantic flash rom board that you can now feed roms to at will. Holy poo poo that's awesome! All the G-Net games for free! Well actually yes but remember the Zoom vs Q-Sound stuff? Not all arcade makers really cared to push the limits of the system and either didn't use any extra sound hardware or also opted to use the Zoom DSP-2. Naturally the person who cracked the system open ended up porting other ZN games to the G-Net. It's a short list of games but still fascinating that such a feat was pulled off. One game has no music because as mentioned, G-Net lacks its hardware. The list: G-Darius Ver.1 / Ver.2 Raystorm Fighter's Impact Brave Blade (no music) Aero Fighters Special Shanghai Matekibuyu The Block Kuzushi Flame Gunner So that's pretty neat. I neglected to link to the source of all this information because they offer it for-money and they're not someone that should be patronized. The information is also on blog posts for free and a simple google search can get you on the right path. If you end up coming across the original mod page you'll see a message that they were working on Bloody Roar 2 to work on the system. Bloody Roar 2 was an unreleased arcade version that went straight to console. This was developed on ZN-2 however never made it to the G-Net. It also never will because it requires more ram than any actual released system has. There was a bootleg of the game made which is quite a curious design:  Starting with the A board on the upper-right you can see a LOT more ram chips. I believe? This game requires 8MB but I haven't ever seen high quality pictures of the bootleg to inspect. Anyways another neat part with this bootleg is the protection circuit wasn't defeated and instead they programmed an ASIC to handle the communication back to the A board's chip. If you look closely at the A board however the socket where the chip normally is doesn't have a chip! There's a blue and green wire that plug in directly from the B board and it handles all of the serial communication. The only other way to play this game inside a cabinet is to source a SDK for ZN-2 which has the maximum ram allotted and can bypass security. Anyways without the board in my hands I can't explore ZN any further so I hope you enjoyed a little journey down Sony's adventure in arcade design during the Playstation era. Not all companies ended up using Sony's ZN boards, Namco for example developed their own System boards which are really obnoxious but I digress.
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Jan 18, 2020 15:20
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Weird, so there's that and the Namco System 11, also PlayStation based
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Jan 18, 2020 15:41
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Wait, so I have a G-Darius ver 2 motherboard (not ROM board) and attached to it I have Raystorm ROM board. I also have a GNET motherboard and some crappy game ROM. Can I sell the G-Darius motherboards and just plug Raystorm into the GNET motherboard? These were all drunk purchases and I didn't mean to get them all. I only wanted the GNET board so I could run the games off of home purchased cards, but I got a little crazy... I also do not like Raystorm that much, I prefer pixel shooters not polygon ones! Also, thanks for the great write up, I'll have to take some time and dig my boards out to check them out.
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Jan 18, 2020 16:19
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No, you can install the modbios and write g darius’s modified image to compact flash. The hack sits inside the g-net rom board.
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Jan 18, 2020 19:17
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This whips so much rear end and I wish I had one.
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Jan 18, 2020 19:38
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Groovelord Neato posted:This whips so much rear end and I wish I had one. I probably spent less than 1k on the whole thing. I'd be happy to help you get one together if you like! Just a lot of elbow grease.
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Jan 18, 2020 22:11
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Chumbawumba4ever97 posted:I probably spent less than 1k on the whole thing. I'd be happy to help you get one together if you like! Just a lot of elbow grease. I've gotta ask - compared to a traditional arcade cabinet, how's your electric bill with the Arcade 1Up cabinet?
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Jan 21, 2020 03:17
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MorrisBae posted:I've gotta ask - compared to a traditional arcade cabinet, how's your electric bill with the Arcade 1Up cabinet? Unless I'm misunderstanding something, what he posted is a (really nicely done) custom MAME cabinet, not an arcade 1up cabinet. I just checked with my astro city (typical cab with CRT) and it draws about 95W. His cab would probably be around that plus a typical PC e: I don't think running any single arcade cabinet for personal use would have any meaningful impact on your electric bill, and an arcade 1up cabinet is probably like, whatever a raspberry pi hooked to a lovely LCD consumes d0s fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Jan 21, 2020 |
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Jan 21, 2020 06:04
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d0s posted:Unless I'm misunderstanding something, what he posted is a (really nicely done) custom MAME cabinet, not an arcade 1up cabinet. I just checked with my astro city (typical cab with CRT) and it draws about 95W. His cab would probably be around that plus a typical PC Oh wow - on first glance I just assumed it was a modded 3/4 size cabinet My bad!
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Jan 21, 2020 06:10
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Yeah it's a legit tmnt cabinet I'm not concerned with the power draw since it's only on when I use it. Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 11:37 on Jan 21, 2020 |
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Jan 21, 2020 10:46
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Chumbawumba4ever97 posted:I probably spent less than 1k on the whole thing. I'd be happy to help you get one together if you like! Just a lot of elbow grease. I am really curious how you went about putting it together. I've been looking into a project to pick up.
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Jan 21, 2020 19:13
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I appreciate the use of a real CRT which is imo the correct way to play old arcade games, so many people who build MAME cabs go with LCDs and it always feels so fake. if it were my cab the only things I would do differently are using a more ergonomic curved button layout for the two main players and using LS-32s in place of the Happ sticks, and Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons (if not already in use, hard to tell) but thats personal preference. it's really goddamn good and kinda tempts me to do something similar with my old SFII dynamo cab
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Jan 22, 2020 03:37
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d0s posted:I appreciate the use of a real CRT which is imo the correct way to play old arcade games, so many people who build MAME cabs go with LCDs and it always feels so fake. if it were my cab the only things I would do differently are using a more ergonomic curved button layout for the two main players and using LS-32s in place of the Happ sticks, and Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons (if not already in use, hard to tell) but thats personal preference. it's really goddamn good and kinda tempts me to do something similar with my old SFII dynamo cab Yeah there was no way I was using an LCD. I wanted the games to look razor sharp while not upscaled. I made sure even to get a standard res one as the early 2000s medium res ones would be too pixelated (unless you were playing like NFL Blitz or something medium res). Groovelord Neato posted:I am really curious how you went about putting it together. I've been looking into a project to pick up. I bought it in shambles for $300 but this was a long time ago. You can still sometimes find them for around $500 with a monitor and no game. Long story short I replaced some of the damaged wood (this was only bad near the bottom of the unit) with similar wood from home depot. Only about 6" worth of wood near the bottom needed to be replaced. Then I had to sand then paint then sand to get all the lovely artwork off. Once it has a nice shiny finish you can put the new artwork on. The control panel is just a matter of drilling holes the proper bit size for the buttons. Then the switches in them connect to either a J-PAC or i-PAC Ultimate i/o. I have both in my machine since it's four players, but I think you can get away with just a J-PAC if you are only doing a 2 player cab. The J-Pac to me is always needed because it hooks your arcade monitor's JAMMA harness to a normal VGA video card. The machine running it is a really old core i7 desktop I had. You need a specific video card from ATI (the compatible models are very cheap on ebay) to install CRTEmudriver so that you can also use it with groovyMAME, which is a special fork of MAME that is meant for people using arcade CRTs. Then you just load it with ROMs and use a frontend like LaunchBox. I am over-simplifying it a bit but that's the jist of it and it's not as bad as it seems. I am by no means a craftsman in any sense of the word; there was a lot of wood filler used to hide my screw ups. Anyway if you need any specific information I would be happy to guide you along. Feel free to ask.
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Jan 22, 2020 21:08
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flyboi posted:Oooh pretty cabinet! I haven't done that but a few friends have. It'd be great to silkscreen original art back on for the older cabs, but for newer ones it's just a matter of finding the art to print and sending it off to a printer who will do a good job with thick polycarb or something. I sent the SNK candy control panel off to be powdercoated since it's very tarnished, so I look forward to seeing those results. The SNK Candy has a veeery slight amount of burn-in, visible with a blacklight. It's from Armed Police Batrider! I recapped the monitor (Toei TC-RM25S) and it has made a world of difference. I've never had a recap help the focus so much. I suspect the heater filament voltage was a pinch low before. Now the tube looks really great. 
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Jan 23, 2020 19:55
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Hatsune Mike posted:I recapped the monitor (Toei TC-RM25S) and it has made a world of difference. I've never had a recap help the focus so much. I suspect the heater filament voltage was a pinch low before. Now the tube looks really great. definitely recap your arcade CRTs, you may think you have a nearly shot monitor but unless something is really wrong a recap and calibration will have it looking new. I documented the process of restoring my NAC, including a recap here: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/new-astro-city-renewal-log.4662/ If you want a cab and can handle a few days work it might not hurt to get something that looks outwardly worn out (and will save you huge $$$). Japanese cabs are built like tanks and can usually be brought back to a very nice condition with a little elbow grease and electronics repair skills d0s fucked around with this message at 22:20 on May 8, 2021 |
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Jan 24, 2020 02:38
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Has anyone here dealt with a tube where the adjustment rings were epoxied together? My net city’s blue has static convergence issues on the blue but I’m hesitant due to the work involved - http://www.albyhus2.se/_eget/monitors/Nanao_MS9_CRT_replacement/CRT_nokia/ It’s the same setup as this person’s rings Should I attempt removing the rings or is this extreme necking potential territory?
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Jan 24, 2020 03:05
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d0s posted:definitely recap your arcade CRTs, you may think you have a nearly shot monitor but unless something is really wrong a recap and calibration will have it looking new. I got stupidly lucky recently. I have an upright full-size Megatouch XL that had been working fine for a decade (I bought it in 2008 and it was probably made in 1997) that just last month started having these wavy lines all over the screen. I posted about the issue on a local Facebook retro game group. I am comfortable with messing with my 25" Wells Gardner (lots of room, chassis comes out easily) but I had no idea what kind of screen this old rear end touch screen used. No docs were online. Plus there were a lot of wires going to it that I had no idea what they did. Anyway, some dude in his 60s actually responded to my post and came by with a huge suitcase of tools. He said despite the machine being 30 years old, most of my caps were good (!!) and right there on the spot he replaced three caps his multimeter tested as bad, and the issue was fixed 100%. I told him I would gladly pay him a few hundred to replace every cap so that I don't have to worry about it for the next 30 years and he said "I'd just be ripping you off. Your old caps are high quality and any replacements you can find today would be lower quality". I was under the assumption that all caps eventually fail and he said that wasn't the case. I appreciated his honesty immensely and could not believe he fixed it on the spot. He charged me $120 but I gave him $140 (I was prepared to spend $400 because I spent dozens of hours getting this thing to work, including replacing the CD ROM drive with a CF card which due to the copy protection was almost impossible, so I was desperate). I could not believe an actual CRT repair man lived driving distance to me that did house calls and was familiar with this obscure monitor. What luck. Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Jan 24, 2020 |
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Jan 24, 2020 20:27
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 20:39 |
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Yeah, it's always nice to do business with someone who's more concerned about dealing honestly with you than trying to squeeze you for more money. Especially when your issue is such an obscure one that they could charge you almost anything since they have no competition.
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Jan 24, 2020 22:03
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