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DEAD GAY FORUM posted:Question: Are the following components a dead nuts, hands down objective upgrade when compared to my current components? It's a small CPU upgrade but you'd lose overclocking. Probably not worth it. Maybe consider just spending (less) money to stick more RAM in what you currently have?
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Feb 17, 2019 21:30
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But it would be a marked upgrade over what I have. I'm not running the latest boob jiggle Waifu Simulator VR in 4K.
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Feb 17, 2019 22:42
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DEAD GAY FORUM posted:Question: Are the following components a dead nuts, hands down objective upgrade when compared to my current components? Unfortunately for you, the CPU is not a straight upgrade, because Intel did not improve its performance much at all over the years between the 3xxx and the 7xxx series, which is why previous generation Intel chips arent that bad off. (this is not true for 3xxx vs 8xxx or 9xxx, those improved a lot over the previous versions because AMD brought a CPU that actually was able to put the smack down on Intel) The CPU is about a <2% upgrade in performance. You would be better off just buying more DDR3 RAM if you're that hard up. the 7500 is most assuredly not a marked upgrade over your current kit. Chuck your 4GB RAM stick out and buy a 16GB kit from PCPartpicker or whatever. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EHKXS6/ 16GB of CL9 DDR3 RAM for $76 dollars. It will do the job just fine for what you have most likely. orange juche fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 22:47
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I seem to have made a mistake. Picked up an ASRock - X470 Master SLI/AC board and a G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory kit, not realizing that they don't get along. I can get it to POST maybe one in ten tries.
Robot Hobo fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Feb 17, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 23:45
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Robot Hobo posted:I seem to have made a mistake. Picked up an ASRock - X470 Master SLI/AC board and a G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory kit, not realizing that they don't get along. I can get it to POST maybe one in ten tries. Try the other 2 RAM slots. The memory controllers are a wee bit dodgy on AMD Zen and Zen+, as the RAM is tied directly into the system bus. If they daisy chained the 4 ram slots off the 2 memory controllers, 2 slots will perform worse than the other 2, and you may get weird posting issues. Sometimes the motherboard manual indicates which 2 should be populated first, but if the ones the motherboard suggests don't boot, try the other 2. I had this issue where my RAM would not POST at all in slot 2 and 4 on my ASUS motherboard, I had to move my RAM to slot 1 and 3 to get it to post successfully, even though the motherboard manual says 2 and 4 should be populated first. If it still doesn't boot, try booting with a single stick (try both individually), and if it still hangs, time to RMA poo poo. orange juche fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 00:20
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In building my new computer to replace my old computer (2013), I was rooting around in some old boxes and realized I still have parts from my older computer (2011, replaced it because it was destroyed in shipping). Is it even worth trying to give 2010-era computer parts away? I think it's just the HyperX 2x4GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM and i5-2500K processor that I have left.
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Feb 18, 2019 00:27
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Elysiume posted:In building my new computer to replace my old computer (2013), I was rooting around in some old boxes and realized I still have parts from my older computer (2011, replaced it because it was destroyed in shipping). Is it even worth trying to give 2010-era computer parts away? I think it's just the HyperX 2x4GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM and i5-2500K processor that I have left. I'm sure folks would still use or buy DDR3 era stuff. It works fine for most stuff it's just not top tier anymore. I'm about to hand me down a portion of my old haswell system to a friend who's still on an i7-920 with a 4:3 monitor. I think he'll like a 16:9 monitor, GTX970 and more than 6gb of ram. The only downside to a 2500K is finding an overclocking board to use it with, but I'm sure plenty of folks would use it at stock speeds in a non-oc board if they don't have anything better, or even for a secondary server or whatever.
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Feb 18, 2019 00:33
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Rexxed posted:I'm sure folks would still use or buy DDR3 era stuff. It works fine for most stuff it's just not top tier anymore. I'm about to hand me down a portion of my old haswell system to a friend who's still on an i7-920 with a 4:3 monitor. I think he'll like a 16:9 monitor, GTX970 and more than 6gb of ram. The only downside to a 2500K is finding an overclocking board to use it with, but I'm sure plenty of folks would use it at stock speeds in a non-oc board if they don't have anything better, or even for a secondary server or whatever.
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Feb 18, 2019 00:37
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DEAD GAY FORUM posted:But it would be a marked upgrade over what I have. I'm not running the latest boob jiggle Waifu Simulator VR in 4K. Like OJ said, the only part that's actually an upgrade is the RAM. I'd either see about throwing in an extra $160 for a 2600 (which would be a decent upgrade for most games): PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($149.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI - B450M GAMING PLUS Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($84.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg) Total: $334.97 Or just upgrade the RAM on your current machine and look at Zen 2 when it releases later this year. AMD's AM4 motherboards (like B450s and X470s) will be compatible with Zen 2 and 3, too, so you're not locked in like Intel's boards. Elysiume posted:In building my new computer to replace my old computer (2013), I was rooting around in some old boxes and realized I still have parts from my older computer (2011, replaced it because it was destroyed in shipping). Is it even worth trying to give 2010-era computer parts away? I think it's just the HyperX 2x4GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM and i5-2500K processor that I have left. Motherboards retain the most value (since they usually die first), but I got $30 for my i7-950 and another $30 for the RAM from my early 2009 machine when it bit the dust last year. Just don't offer free shipping and you could probably get $50-100 parting it out. You'll probably have to recycle the case and PSU, though. E: 2500Ks go for $40-50 and HyperX 2x4 is probably another $30-40. Stickman fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 00:45
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Stickman posted:Motherboards retain the most value (since they usually die first), but I got $30 for my i7-950 and another $30 for the RAM from my early 2009 machine when it bit the dust last year. Just don't offer free shipping and you could probably get $50-100 parting it out. You'll probably have to recycle the case and PSU, though. Motherboard: SATA ports sheared off, PCI port damage Video card: The bit that plugs into the MOBO was damaged PSU: Honestly might have been fine but I threw it away I don't think that a CPU or RAM can really have non-visible damage, but I'm still leery of selling components that I can't guarantee are in full working condition. Elysiume fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 00:58
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orange juche posted:Try the other 2 RAM slots... I picked the RAM because it was in quite a few builds in this thread that good seemed pleased with, picked the motherboard for the same reason... Totally failed to notice they weren't actually appearing together in the same builds. Oops.
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Feb 18, 2019 02:16
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Robot Hobo posted:Thanks for the advice. Already tried all the slots, one-by-one with one stick of RAM, then the other, then the slot 2/4 & 1/3 combinations. Seems to be no particular pattern to when it does do the occasional POST. I'm going to return it, and get a different model & brand entirely, just in case. If you haven't checked already, you'll also want to make sure that the RAM is totally seated and clipped on both ends. I've seen some reports that the X470 Master requires a bit more force to seat than people are used to. Elysiume posted:Case: Front panel broken off, feet broken off Ick, that's tricky. You could sell them as "for parts" with a disclaimer that you're not entirely sure if they'll work, but you'll probably won't get much for them.
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Feb 18, 2019 02:27
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You guys have given me a lot to think about. Stickman - That sounds like a smart move. I'll do it. ItBreathes - That's a really good point. Looking at Newegg Canada, most 580s are about the same price as a 590, except for this one, which is about a hundred dollars less. That seems like a pretty good deal. Is there any reason not to go for it? orange juche - That makes a lot of sense. I hadn't even considered going smaller. Saving space isn't really an issue, but saving money is always nice. On the other hand, the review I read (and the pictures I saw) suggest that the Core (and maybe mini-ITX in general) are harder to work with. I'm willing to pay a bit more in order to have less of a headache.
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Feb 18, 2019 02:57
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BIG HEADLINE posted:And if/when you remedy your dead hub, you might want to place a *single* exhaust just above your CPU through the top of the case - the reason being that a lot of people have a tendency to "max fan" their case (if they don't mind the noise) and with top-mounted exhausts, if you're not careful with the placement, the exhaust closest to your intakes can actually 'rob' some of that cooler intake air and immediately evacuate most of it from the case before it's able to cool anything. guilty as charged. One of my fans was doing exactly this. if I get another fan hub I might just remove that one entirely. For now I just connected 2 intake and 1 output fan to the motherboard as advised, and the temperature ended up staying about the same as it was, so it might not even be worth the bother. Anyway thanks to all the posters like BIG HEADLINE for the regular advice in this thread, it's been a great resource for me for years.
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Feb 18, 2019 05:44
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Grendel posted:ItBreathes - That's a really good point. Looking at Newegg Canada, most 580s are about the same price as a 590, except for this one, which is about a hundred dollars less. That seems like a pretty good deal. Is there any reason not to go for it? I'm afraid I'm not knowledgeable about individual models, but I can't imagine any. Question for the thread: I'm looking to downgrade my machine as my GPU gets almost no real use, but since I have a Ryzen 2600 its my video out. The simplest/cheapest thing to do would just be to pick up a 2200g and just swap out the processor, but I'm fairly sure I'd have to take out my motherboard to do that, and would have to go through the whole process again if I wanted to do any 3D gaming later on. Do y'all have any ideas on how to best get a low power machine for web browsing and 2D gaming on the cheap?
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Feb 18, 2019 06:35
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DEAD GAY FORUM posted:Question: Are the following components a dead nuts, hands down objective upgrade when compared to my current components? 3570k locked at 3.4 is an underclock. It'll boost to 3.8 by default, with 4.2 being an easy overclock
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Feb 18, 2019 06:41
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I'm helping a friend build a relatively low budget machine to help get his kid into building computers and gaming. The video card that we had recommended to us is hard to find so I was hoping for a recommendation on something in a similar price range. Preferably $200 or lower. The recommended card was: Sapphire - Radeon RX 570 8 GB PULSE This is the rest of the build we have come up with. I would welcome any recommendations or suggestions about part conflicts. I prefer to limit our purchasing to Amazon due to shipping restrictions and costs to my location (AP.) Thanks in advance! 
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Feb 18, 2019 07:19
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What country are you in? Canada  What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Gaming What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. $1000 max If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? 1920x1080 - I want it to have stable 60+ FPS at high'ish settings - I don't have some fancy monitor I have a EVGA GTX 1060 video card already, so not including that in the build. Also a 2TB mechanical HDD and a 250GB SSD for my OS, so think I am good there for the most part. I'm currently gaming on a real loving old Phenom II 1055T, which actually performs great but needs to be updated because SSE4.1 bullshit and you know I'd like a new rig. This is what I threw together based on suggestions from this thread, feedback would be great, especially on the case and motherboard. The M2 thing is optional, these things are pretty "holy poo poo wow" to me as I thought an SSD with a SATA cable was wow. I'm a dinosaur. I didn't include a CPU cooler because I read that the stock cooler with these processors is pretty great? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($216.82 @ Amazon Canada) Thermal Compound: Thermal Grizzly - Kryonaut 1g 1 g Thermal Paste ($16.39 @ Amazon Canada) Motherboard: Asus - ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Newegg Canada) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($155.99 @ Amazon Canada) Storage: Western Digital - Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Newegg Canada) Case: NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Canada Computers) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.00 @ Amazon Canada) Total: $928.17 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-18 07:44 EST-0500 ModeSix fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 13:45
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ModeSix posted:What country are you in? Find a different motherboard. The ASUS B450 board has literally no diagnostic lights/POST codes, or capability for a PC Speaker, so no POST error beeps or lights telling you why your configuration is invalid. If something doesn't play nice and you can't POST you're left with your thumb up your rear end wondering if you should RMA all your poo poo or just pick parts to replace at random and pray for it to boot eventually. Apparently ASUS considers basic troubleshooting capability to be a premium feature.
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Feb 18, 2019 14:06
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orange juche posted:Find a different motherboard. Ok, so what about this: Motherboard: Gigabyte - X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Canada Computers)
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Feb 18, 2019 14:17
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Bruxism posted:I'm helping a friend build a relatively low budget machine to help get his kid into building computers and gaming. The video card that we had recommended to us is hard to find so I was hoping for a recommendation on something in a similar price range. Preferably $200 or lower. I would drop the m2 SSD and spend the money saved elsewhere (either more RAM or a better graphics card). The 1tb SATA SSD is going to be plenty fine on its own.
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Feb 18, 2019 14:32
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What country are you in? US What are you using the system for? Gaming What's your budget? ~$1500 If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Looking to go 4k/60fps/settings as high as possible. Someday I'd like to hook it to my 4K TV and play Cyberpunk 2077. Have a couple of questions: - I've not bought a CPU in 8 years (an i5-2500K) so I'm operating on the possibly outdated assumption that the i5-xx00K's are still price/performance winners. Are these still solid picks or should I be going with a different CPU and cooling? The i7-8700's and the new AMDs seem to be popular these days. - I have no idea what motherboard to get, other than I want it to be reliable and stay in the $100-150 range. Any suggestions? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-9600K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($269.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ??? Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($119.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($499.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design - Define S2 Black – TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1359.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-18 11:18 EST-0500
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Feb 18, 2019 17:38
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I'm thinking of selling my PC as I no longer play games and would like the space in my tiny front room back. How much should I be aiming to sell a 970 / 16gb / i5 4570 / 500gb SSD for, it will include a wireless Logitech mouse and keyboard. I also recently changed the PSU (EVGA) as the old one was starting to rattle and put the guts into a Fractal R6. I'm in the UK was thinking of just bunging it on eBay for collection only starting at £250.
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Feb 18, 2019 18:08
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FuriousGeorge posted:What country are you in? AMD is competitive again, at least for CPU's. They don't have anything that can compete with Intel for gaming at the very top end at the moment, but for people in your budget class AMD offers extremely good value for your money. If you get an AMD Ryzen 5 2600 or 2600X instead of the i5-9600K you can save around $100 for essentially the same performance at 4K/60Hz. You can skip the aftermarket CPU cooler too if you want, Ryzens come with decent stock coolers. The usual recommended motherboard would be the MSI B450 Tomahawk. For games that aren't even out yet the 2070 is maybe a bit less than you'd really want for 4K/60 at high settings - I have a 1080, which is very close in performance, and ultra settings aren't really achievable even in current games at 60Hz. A 2080 might be possible to squeeze in, maybe, if you cut a corner or two here and there. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 18:25
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Yeah I consider a 1080 sufficient for 1440p/60hz for modern games at high/ultra settings, but it would fall very short for 4k, at least for me. But then, I want to be able to put everything on high/ultra right away when I buy a new computer, if you are ok with medium settings I guess you could make it work for a year or two? Honestly I would get a ryzen 2600x CPU, keep the stock heatsink, cut some other corners and go for a 2080 (or used 1080ti if possible to save money) which should be much better suited for 4k TorakFade fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 21:27
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Bruxism posted:I'm helping a friend build a relatively low budget machine to help get his kid into building computers and gaming. The video card that we had recommended to us is hard to find so I was hoping for a recommendation on something in a similar price range. Preferably $200 or lower. A Ryzen 2600 will have roughly equivalent performance for cheaper. Here's my baseline recommendation: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($164.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($109.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($147.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C Mini Dark TG MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($96.87 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G1+ 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Amazon) Total: $679.82 CPU: The 2600 will have roughly equivalent performance to an 8400 (and better multicore performance), for cheaper. The stock cooler is also much better! Upgrading to a 2600X is $35 and gets you automatic overclocking (precision boost overdrive) and an overclock-capable stock cooler. You'd want to upgrade the motherboard as well if you move up to a 2600X, though. Motherboard: The Pro4 is a decent budget option for the 2600, but isn't adequate for a 2600X. Unfortunately, there aren't better microATX options available on Amazon, but the ITX B450i Gaming Plus ($120) is a good option. Since the next two generations of AMD CPUs will also be compatible with B450/X470 motherboards, it might be a good idea to spend a little extra here if you think you might be interested in upgrading the CPU later. Memory: 8GB of RAM is already starting to become marginal for Windows 10 gaming. 16GB is the standard recommendation (and you're saving enough with the 2600 to absorb the cost!) Storage: The 250 and 500GB of the 970 have some performance issues, to the point where the cheaper HP ex920 and ADATA sx8200 drives are actually faster, too. Just going with the the 860 evo would be sufficient, but if you want an NVMe drive I'd just get a 1TB sx8200 for $190 and skip the second drive. Case: Good looking and easy to work with - definitely a good choice for a first build! Power Supply: Going with a G1+ gets you a 10-year warranty vs. 7 years for the G2. Video Card: The Sapphire Radeon 570 8GB Pulse is actually available for $120 on Amazon. That said, it's a very basic card with only a single DVI output. Depending on your monitor, it might be a pain to get connected. I'd seriously consider spending a bit more. There's an XFX 8GB 580 for $190, which is only $20 more than the next-cheapest 8GB 570 model and should be a decent ~15% boost in performance as well. Whichever card you go with, be sure to get the code for 2 free games (choice of two of The Division 2, Resident Evil 2, or Devil May Cry 5). Even if you aren't interested in the games, you should be able to get $60 or so for them on SA-Mart Operating System: Buy a $25 Windows 7 Pro key from SA-Mart and use it to activate Windows 10 Pro! E: I missed the 970 Evo, added some discussion... Stickman fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 21:44
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ModeSix posted:Ok, so what about this: It actually has POST LEDs so that fixes the issue of not being able to tell if something is going to POST and or why it failed. The ram you picked is even on the QVL for that board so you should be fine just setting it to XMP and go.
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Feb 18, 2019 21:57
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The first post recommends you install "Secunia PSI". According to the company website, that program EOL'ed in April 2018. It should probably be removed.  https://www.flexera.com/products/software-vulnerability-management/personal-software-inspector.html e: I'm trying to figure out which SATA version my Inspiron 3847's motherboard supports. The spec sheet has the helpful "Two 3.5-inch drive bay for SATA hard drives (includes hybrid)" with no information about the connector. Does anybody know how to find out which SATA version it supports? Would it be written on the motherboard? Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 22:29
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Arsenic Lupin posted:e: I'm trying to figure out which SATA version my Inspiron 3847's motherboard supports. The spec sheet has the helpful "Two 3.5-inch drive bay for SATA hard drives (includes hybrid)" with no information about the connector. Does anybody know how to find out which SATA version it supports? Would it be written on the motherboard? All SATA versions use the same connector, and newer SATA devices are backwards compatible with older SATA versions - they'll just run slower. That said, anything newer than 2010 or so will almost certainly have SATA 3, or at least some SATA 3 ports. My old bargain basement motherboard for my 3rd generation i5 (one generation older than what it seems like the Inspiron 3847 came with) had a mix of SATA 2 and SATA 3 ports, IIRC. Sometimes SATA 3 ports are color-coded in some way and sometimes "SATA3" or "SATA 6G" (or 6 Gbit/s) is printed on the motherboard, but not always. You can also just plug in the drive and use some system information software like AIDA64 or CrystalDiskInfo or whatever and see what interface type and device speed it reports. e: CrystalDiskInfo is probably easiest and quickest: 
TheFluff fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 23:09
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Thanks for the advice above! Definitely going to look into the Ryzens. If I were to give up the 4k dream and stick with 1440p on a monitor, is there any consensus on the RTX 2060 vs. 2070? After watching some Digital Foundry it looks like I'd basically be paying $150 more for +10 fps for the 2070.
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Feb 18, 2019 23:40
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FuriousGeorge posted:Thanks for the advice above! Definitely going to look into the Ryzens. If I were to give up the 4k dream and stick with 1440p on a monitor, is there any consensus on the RTX 2060 vs. 2070? After watching some Digital Foundry it looks like I'd basically be paying $150 more for +10 fps for the 2070. As someone who runs 4K with the equivalent of a 2070, it's not all bad, at least not if you have variable refresh rate on your monitor (Freesync/G-sync). Most games look better to me at 4K with a bunch of mostly unnoticeable and expensive settings turned off or set to low (looking at you, ambient occlusion) than they do at 1440p with everything on ultra, and for twitch shooters that I want to run at high refresh rate there's usually TSAA with a configurable scale factor which can render at 1440p and upscale to 4K while looking pretty decent (far better than letting the monitor scale, at any rate). I run Apex Legends and Rainbow Six Siege at ~90-100fps with that setup. I really should buy a better GPU though because this is far from ideal, but the budget for silly computer toys has been exhausted for the moment, so I'll live with this for now.
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Feb 19, 2019 00:32
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Looking for PC upgrading advice. I built my current PC six years ago and it's starting to show it's age. I'm looking to upgrade, but basically I think this means replacing most of the parts. I'd ideally like to spend between $1,000 to $1,500, and I will definitely need a new motherboard, CPU, video card, and RAM sticks. If there's room in the budget I'd also like to get a 144hz monitor (1440p would be nice but I guess not absolutely necessary). I'm using the computer mostly for gaming, and I live in the US. I believe I have most of the other peripherals, including mouse, kb, headphones, an SSD and a hard drive. Questions I have: With this budget, what's a good mobo / cpu / video card / RAM combination to get? I'm kind of daunted at choosing some stuff myself because I don't know, for example, how much better a 1080 Ti is over a 1070, and I'm not sure if the price increase is worth it. Is now a good time to be upgrading (price-wise and also in the sense of if there's anything happening in the next few months). I'm willing to wait a little bit to upgrade; I'm moving to a new city in the summer and it could make sense to upgrade then. Will I be able to use my current power supply (Corsair Builder 500W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply) and CPU cooler (Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO) with the new computer? I would hope so, but I'm not sure if power supplies get worn down etc.
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Feb 19, 2019 00:42
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ThePineapple posted:Looking for PC upgrading advice. I built my current PC six years ago and it's starting to show it's age. I'm looking to upgrade, but basically I think this means replacing most of the parts. I'd ideally like to spend between $1,000 to $1,500, and I will definitely need a new motherboard, CPU, video card, and RAM sticks. If there's room in the budget I'd also like to get a 144hz monitor (1440p would be nice but I guess not absolutely necessary). I'm using the computer mostly for gaming, and I live in the US. I believe I have most of the other peripherals, including mouse, kb, headphones, an SSD and a hard drive. There's a new line of AMD CPU's with some degree of hype attached to them on the horizon, with a launch probably in June or July (but nothing announced yet so take it with some salt). RAM is trending downwards in price again (finally), as are SSD's. It's not a great time to buy a graphics card, but that situation has been going on for over a year now and it's not likely to change soon. On the other hand, 27" 1440p 144Hz IPS monitors with variable refresh rate support (Freesync/G-sync) have become significantly cheaper recently - you can now get an Acer VG270UP/VG271UP/XV272UP or a Nixeus EDG27 with those specs starting at around $450 MSRP. Availability seems limited in the US so far, though, but that's hopefully going to improve in the near future. Your PSU will work, but if you're worried about it, the standing thread recommendation is to replace PSU's once the warranty is out and spend a bit extra on PSU's with 10 or 12 year warranties just for peace of mind (they'll easily last two computers with warranty intact). There are components in PSU's that do wear out with time. The Hyper 212 Evo is still a common entry level aftermarket CPU cooler, yep. Here's a starting point using what's available currently on the market - the monitor would take the $450 that remains in the budget: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($119.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB Black Video Card ($499.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C Dark TG ATX Mid Tower Case ($105.82 @ Newegg) Total: $1040.78 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-18 19:00 EST-0500 edit: not sure if you wanted/needed a case or not - if you already have one you like you don't need to buy a new one. The 2070 is the GPU that is generally considered appropriate for running 1440p 144fps at high quality settings, but with the wonders of variable refresh rate, if you can do 100fps you're doing pretty dang well. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 19, 2019 01:01
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orange juche posted:Find a different motherboard. ? I have the 450-f and it has a 4-color LED by the ram slots (cpu / ram / gpu / storage). Yeah it doesn't have a two digit code display but it's sufficient
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Feb 19, 2019 01:40
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That's awesome, The Fluff. Thank you so much.
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Feb 19, 2019 02:43
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So I think this is my final build. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Amazon Canada) Thermal Compound: Thermal Grizzly - Kryonaut 1g 1 g Thermal Paste ($16.39 @ Amazon Canada) Motherboard: Gigabyte - X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Canada Computers) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($155.99 @ Amazon Canada) Storage: Western Digital - Blue 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Amazon Canada) Storage: Seagate - BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($109.99 @ Canada Computers) Case: NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Canada Computers) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.00 @ Amazon Canada) Total: $1001.33 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-02-18 20:48 EST-0500
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Feb 19, 2019 02:57
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Looks good, just some minor suggestions: Thermal Compound: I probably wouldn't bother spending $15 on the best paste for a 2600 on a stock cooler. You're not going to get significantly more OC overhead. If you want to spend a bit extra for better performance, consider spending the extra $50 for 2600X, which comes with a OC-capable stock cooler and auto-overclocking via Precision Boost Overdrive. Storage: The Crucial MX500 is the same price as the blue, but faster! PSU: I'd consider a 650W G1+ or Seasonic Plus Focus for the 10-year warranty (vs. 7 for the G2). Plus, they're cheaper! Stickman fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 19, 2019 03:10
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Stickman posted:Looks good, just some minor suggestions: Thanks for the tips! 
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Feb 19, 2019 03:55
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TheFluff posted:AMD is competitive again, at least for CPU's. They don't have anything that can compete with Intel for gaming at the very top end at the moment, but for people in your budget class AMD offers extremely good value for your money. If you get an AMD Ryzen 5 2600 or 2600X instead of the i5-9600K you can save around $100 for essentially the same performance at 4K/60Hz. You can skip the aftermarket CPU cooler too if you want, Ryzens come with decent stock coolers. The usual recommended motherboard would be the MSI B450 Tomahawk. Asking for a friend since I really know nothing about AMD. Is the AMD 2700x a worthwhile upgrade over an i5 4690k? Looking at numbers had me a bit confused because it's not really a huge bump in speed so I dont know what to tell him. As an Intel fan I suggested a 9600k.
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Feb 19, 2019 05:11
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grimcreaper posted:Asking for a friend since I really know nothing about AMD. It really depends on what you're targeting. If you're trying to get as close to 144fps as possible Intel is still the way to go (assuming you're not GPU limited). If you're ok with 90-100fps a 2600 is the smart buy. Really though, the first question to ask is A. is the CPU the weak link currently and B. what resolution/refresh rate are you looking for?
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Feb 19, 2019 05:31
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