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Dren posted:full frames: D600, D700, D750, D800, D3, D4 No number, it's the Df.
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Oct 31, 2014 20:18
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 17:40 |
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Everybody forgets about the Df  (For good reason)
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Oct 31, 2014 20:20
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Scrubs. Get the 58mm Noct-Nikkor. It's superior to that 50mm junk 1.2. Better yet, get the Leica 50mm 1.2 and adap... Oh.
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Oct 31, 2014 21:12
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vote_no posted:Yeah, I also picked up the 50 1.2 recently against the advice of this thread, and I'm regretting it a little bit. The 50 1.8D is just so awesome for $100, so the few occasions where the 1.2 outshines it aren't really worth the extra money. If you want a really high-end fast-50 type lens, the Sigma 50/1.4 Art is the obvious choice nowadays. It pretty well stomps anything that isn't a Zeiss Otus 55/1.4, and it compares very favorably with that lens in terms of performance, features, and price.
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Oct 31, 2014 21:23
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Kenshin posted:No number, it's the Df. Which stand for "Da Fuq?" FAKE EDIT: Paging red19fire to defend your ugly camera purchase 
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Nov 1, 2014 15:38
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What is the best 50mm to get for a DX body? The G? Figured for $100 I should probably just have one for portraits. I currently have a 28mm 1.8G as my '50mm' lens.
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Nov 2, 2014 22:21
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What body do you have? D3xxx and D5xxx don't have the autofocus motor so you don't get autofocus with the 50mm f1.8D ($100), limiting you to the G ($200). D7xxx has the autofocus motor so you can use the D or the G.
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Nov 2, 2014 22:30
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Wild EEPROM posted:What body do you have? D80 so the D should be fine. Are the IQ the same on both?
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Nov 2, 2014 22:49
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8th-snype posted:Which stand for "Da Fuq?" The Df is awesome and I hate all of you. I pair it with an X100s and become King Retro of ShitHeap Mountain. Yes, it's wonky, but you buy this camera for the sensor. I shot a bodybuilding show over the weekend, and chatting with some of the other photographers (who are creepy as hell) I discovered I'm at least 3-4 stops better in the dark. I think one dude said he was at 3200, f/3.2 and 1/60 on a D3. I was at 1600, 1/125, f/4, (5.6 at the show before this one). It fits my needs perfectly. All I want is an OEM grip for it.  Muscle Grandpa also thinks you're all a bunch of scrubs.  This is me, thinking about buying a backup Df. red19fire fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Nov 2, 2014 |
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Nov 2, 2014 22:50
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Anyone tried the 20 1.8G yet?
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Nov 3, 2014 00:13
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Red_Fred posted:D80 so the D should be fine. Are the IQ the same on both? Get the 50mm 1.8D. Useable if you get at old nikon body.
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Nov 3, 2014 00:25
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Moon Potato posted:Try shooting with it for a bit before you let it go. Even though it's not worth using wide open most of the time, I find it to be one of the lenses in the Nikon lineup that has its own special magic to it. I held on to mine and I don't regret it (although I did find a copy for $300, so I don't feel too bad about how cheap the other 50mm's are in comparison). I love my 1.2, but its definitely not the lens if you are looking for technical perfection. Its got its own specific rendering of colors, and at 1.2 all things turn to butter - with only the center being reasonably ok, but the look wide open is rather unique.
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Nov 3, 2014 10:27
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Red_Fred posted:D80 so the D should be fine. Are the IQ the same on both? The 50G has nicer build quality and smoother bokeh due to the difference in aperture blades. Otherwise they're extremely similar, I use the D because I found one used for $60.
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Nov 3, 2014 17:58
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D7200/D9300/D400 rumors are back: http://nikonrumors.com/2014/11/03/nikon-d7200d9300-specifications-maybe.aspx/ On a scale of 1-  I give this a "I WANT TO BELIEVE"
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Nov 3, 2014 19:23
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What is the general consensus on the 28mm f1.8? I never heard it mentioned but maybe that's just because it's not as good value as the 35mm?
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Nov 17, 2014 07:56
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Red_Fred posted:What is the general consensus on the 28mm f1.8? I never heard it mentioned but maybe that's just because it's not as good value as the 35mm? It's more about working with the fov. Do you need 28mm? Fov needs out weighs value. You can't crop a 35mm to 28. You can crop 28 to 35. It's about how you use the tools.
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Nov 17, 2014 08:53
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Musket posted:It's more about working with the fov. Do you need 28mm? Fov needs out weighs value. You can't crop a 35mm to 28. You can crop 28 to 35. It's about how you use the tools. It's also about why you specifically want the 28 1.8. Yes, it's often good and convenient to have a really fast aperture, but if that's not actually the main reason you're buying the lens, there may be way the gently caress more economical solutions to your 28mm needs. (Such as the loving mindblowingly sharp 28 2.8 E, if you're a manual focus fan.)
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Nov 17, 2014 09:00
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The 28 is also gently caress-you money iirc, much like the FX 35/1.8
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Nov 17, 2014 09:43
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I've been happily using this lens on a 5100: http://www.destoutz.ch/lens_80-200mm_f4.5_140015.html I just traded up to a 7000, and repaired my old D70. If I try to mount this lens will it break these cameras? Does it need to be modified? I'm guessing this is not an easy task if need be, right?
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Nov 17, 2014 21:38
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As long as you don't try to force it, you won't break anything. I have a home-AI-converted Nikkor-NC lens that won't mount on my D80. It's very obvious it won't mount without breaking a tap off. However it does mount on a friend's D600, and also works fine on my F90x, and meters on both of those.
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Nov 17, 2014 21:45
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nielsm posted:As long as you don't try to force it, you won't break anything. Thanks! I was worried that it might be easy to break off the "tab", but it mounted fine on the D70, just needing the slightest bit of pressure to make it 'click' (which made me super nervous to begin with), then is fine. Just have to see on the 7000 when it arrives, I guess i'll just take it very carefully .
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Nov 17, 2014 23:09
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flongofthenight posted:Thanks! I was worried that it might be easy to break off the "tab", but it mounted fine on the D70, just needing the slightest bit of pressure to make it 'click' (which made me super nervous to begin with), then is fine. Just have to see on the 7000 when it arrives, I guess i'll just take it very carefully . Also "AI conversion" is totally a DIY thing as long as you don't give a poo poo about the metering working (which it wasn't anyways on the 5100), you can just dremel off the plastic where it interferes with the AI tab. If you DO give a poo poo about metering and want to actually cut the slot to the right dimensions then you probably have to look it up or something. Do put a rear lens cap on when you do it though, so you don't fill the inside of the lens with plastic shavings.
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Nov 18, 2014 03:00
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flongofthenight posted:I've been happily using this lens on a 5100: I'm actually kinda curious about having your D70 repaired. Did you pay a shop, and how was it worth it? (I still have a D50 I shoot with time to time, it was my first DSLR so I'm hanging on to it probably forever, and I used to shoot a D70 as well)
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Nov 18, 2014 03:09
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Jahoodie posted:I'm actually kinda curious about having your D70 repaired. Did you pay a shop, and how was it worth it? The problem was the card reader saying all cards were corrupt, and wouldn't format (that worked fine in card readers). It got soaked in a rain forest in Borneo so I thought it was corrosion or something. Took it to a Nikon repair centre here in Mexico City, and they just said "it's too old to repair, just buy another card just in case it's that". Went wandering around the little repair shops in the centre and found a guy who opened it up and reset the pins in the CF slot, gave it an amazing clean too! Whole thing cost around $50 in the end, and works great again! 12 years later, and this camera has been through a lot .....
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Nov 18, 2014 03:34
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Cool, not bad for $50 and memories. The cost of that where I am would basically cost enough for a decent D70 off KEH.
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Nov 18, 2014 03:39
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Been shooting with my aging D80 for a long time now, and now thinking about upgrading after shooting some theatre production photos in low light that came out poorly. I had been eying the D7100 - is that a pretty decent upgrade, or should I invest in a D600/610? I don't shoot a lot of gigs (mainly been hesitant to advertise due to worry that my camera ise on its last legs), so I have a hard time justifying dropping more than $1,000 on a body right now, but if the 600/610 is leaps and bounds better I guess it would be worth it.
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Nov 18, 2014 04:14
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Geoff Zahn posted:Been shooting with my aging D80 for a long time now, and now thinking about upgrading after shooting some theatre production photos in low light that came out poorly. I had been eying the D7100 - is that a pretty decent upgrade, or should I invest in a D600/610? I don't shoot a lot of gigs (mainly been hesitant to advertise due to worry that my camera ise on its last legs), so I have a hard time justifying dropping more than $1,000 on a body right now, but if the 600/610 is leaps and bounds better I guess it would be worth it. D7K bodies go for around $600 used, that might be a good upgrade? Low light performance is great.
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Nov 18, 2014 04:16
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Geoff Zahn posted:Been shooting with my aging D80 for a long time now, and now thinking about upgrading after shooting some theatre production photos in low light that came out poorly. I had been eying the D7100 - is that a pretty decent upgrade, or should I invest in a D600/610? I don't shoot a lot of gigs (mainly been hesitant to advertise due to worry that my camera ise on its last legs), so I have a hard time justifying dropping more than $1,000 on a body right now, but if the 600/610 is leaps and bounds better I guess it would be worth it. Get an F3HP and some ilford 3200.
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Nov 18, 2014 11:21
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flongofthenight posted:Went wandering around the little repair shops in the centre and found a guy who opened it up and reset the pins in the CF slot, gave it an amazing clean too! Whole thing cost around $50 in the end, and works great again! 12 years later, and this camera has been through a lot .....
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Nov 18, 2014 12:26
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flongofthenight posted:The problem was the card reader saying all cards were corrupt, and wouldn't format (that worked fine in card readers). It got soaked in a rain forest in Borneo so I thought it was corrosion or something. Took it to a Nikon repair centre here in Mexico City, and they just said "it's too old to repair, just buy another card just in case it's that". That sounds almost exactly like what I did with my Sigma...  P3110007.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr
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Nov 20, 2014 06:44
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I bought a "genuine" HB-2 lens hood on ebay for my 50 1.8D and when it arrived, packaging looked real but the hood itself looked obviously counterfeit. Especially note the Nikon "logo". I found this image of the exact product I had received from the ebay seller: So I wanted to see what a real genuine one looked like, and I guess it maybe is genuine after all? http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Lens-Hoods/HR-2-Screw-On-Rubber-Lens-Hood.html Is Nikon outsourcing these to the lowest bidder or something? 
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Nov 20, 2014 19:14
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BANME.sh posted:I bought a "genuine" HB-2 lens hood on ebay for my 50 1.8D and when it arrived, packaging looked real but the hood itself looked obviously counterfeit. Especially note the Nikon "logo". I found this image of the exact product I had received from the ebay seller: It's real. Mine is also low rent in appearance.
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Nov 20, 2014 20:01
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That's the old Nikon logotype. Enjoy its retro coolness or something.
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Nov 20, 2014 22:46
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I would be able to accept that if the kerning on the end of Nik o n didn't look so frigged up
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Nov 20, 2014 22:55
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BANME.sh posted:I would be able to accept that if the kerning on the end of Nik o n didn't look so frigged up It's a lens hood for a lens that people traditionally don't even bother trying to find an authentic hood for because they're pretty much the exact same as whatever random screw-in hood you can find on eBay. I wouldn't expect much. To whoever bought it though, do you find it makes a big difference? I can't say I've ever really felt the need for a hood on my fiddy.
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Nov 21, 2014 00:08
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Yeah I am not actually bummed. It was cheap, too. I ordered it along with 3 or 4 other hoods for different used lenses I picked up over the last year. They were all knockoffs from China with the exception of this one.
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Nov 21, 2014 00:18
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I have an old all metal Nikon hood I use on my 50, more so to protect me from bumping into things with the glass than glare. I bought the official hood for the dinky 17-55 kit lens once upon a time, probably one of the biggest wastes of 
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Nov 21, 2014 15:27
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Jahoodie posted:I have an old all metal Nikon hood I use on my 50, more so to protect me from bumping into things with the glass than glare. Hah, I use the lens hoods on my 50 and 35 for the same reason
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Nov 21, 2014 16:14
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I'm looking to switch over from Sony since my camera's currently breaking and I haven't invested too much into my setup. I've got a Sony a290 entry level DSLR currently with the 18-55 kit lens and a 50mm 1.7f lens. I've decided that within my price range I'm going to upgrade to a d90. So far on my list of purchases I've got the d90 with the 18-55mm lens which leaves me about $300 left for others lenses/accessories. My next purchases if my camera wasn't breaking would have been a fisheye and 70-210 F4. What do you guys think I should purchase for my remaining $300 with that in mind? If there is a better lens than the 18-55, I'm all ears as well. Edit: After more browsing I've got this list of stuff so far: Nikon d90 $260 18-55mm $70 Nikon 50mm 1.8f $100 Nikon 55-200mm $100 Accessories $47 huhu fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Nov 21, 2014 |
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Nov 21, 2014 20:00
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 17:40 |
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I'd ditch the 18-55 and 50mm and find a used tamron 17-05, or just upgrade your sony body and keep using those lenses. You're spending a lot of money to switch systems and get an older camera with similar lenses!
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Nov 21, 2014 21:12
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